Ultimax 15" LLT Build - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 96 Old 06-13-2014, 08:47 AM - Thread Starter
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Ultimax 15" LLT Build

This is my first subwoofer build and I decided to just go all out with my first attempt. My inspiration and basic outline for the design was a martysub. I wanted to use slightly different dimensions because of my room shape, so I went with a longer and thinner box. It measures out to 21"w x 23"h x 50"L. That works out to roughly 10cf internally after bracing and the driver. It's tuned to 16 hz.

I'm just about finished at this point. All I need to do is install the driver and fire it up! I'm using an inuke1000dsp to power it. Of course I will be using bridge mode to get all the power through one output. I'm hoping this amp will make enough power for the ultimax. But considering that ported designs are more efficient than sealed, my feeling is that it will provide enough power. I have a huge room that's open to the rest of the house, so I need all the sub I can get. Check out the pics and let me know what you think!
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post #2 of 96 Old 06-13-2014, 08:51 AM - Thread Starter
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Getting started with a dry fit.
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post #3 of 96 Old 06-13-2014, 08:56 AM - Thread Starter
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Coming together nicely at this point.
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post #4 of 96 Old 06-13-2014, 08:57 AM - Thread Starter
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Rear view of port structure.
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post #5 of 96 Old 06-13-2014, 08:58 AM - Thread Starter
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Most of the bracing is installed at this point and most of the damping material.
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post #6 of 96 Old 06-13-2014, 08:59 AM - Thread Starter
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Top installed and curing. This is almost complete!
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post #7 of 96 Old 06-13-2014, 09:01 AM - Thread Starter
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Everything screwed and glued. Time to fit the driver and test this baby! I will be finishing the box with Duratex roll on when it arrives on Monday. It's coming from the south end of Florida so it takes forever to get to Arizona!
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post #8 of 96 Old 06-13-2014, 09:12 AM - Thread Starter
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This is definitely an awesome looking driver.
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post #9 of 96 Old 06-13-2014, 04:58 PM - Thread Starter
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Driver installed and tested. This thing is a beast and started to actually open my plantation shutters from playing cloverfield and ironman. I'm extremely happy with the build, and I'm sure there will be more subs to come in the future. Btw, I love the inuke's eq that's available to tweak on a PC. It really helped fill out the bottom end for movies. For those wondering whether or not the nu1000 has enough juice for the ultimax 15, I can assure you it does. I was able to push it to crazy levels of volume that I would never use while watching something.

Time to get back to some movie watching!
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post #10 of 96 Old 06-13-2014, 07:14 PM
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Nice work, are you planning on finishing it?
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post #11 of 96 Old 06-13-2014, 09:29 PM - Thread Starter
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Nice work, are you planning on finishing it?
Definitely. I'll be using Duratex. I've never used it before but it seems like its a very nice finish to it.
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post #12 of 96 Old 06-14-2014, 04:10 AM
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What does the rest of your setup consist of? Which AVR are you using and what are your speakers?
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post #13 of 96 Old 06-14-2014, 08:35 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Martycool007 View Post
What does the rest of your setup consist of? Which AVR are you using and what are your speakers?
I'm using a Yamaha Rx-V571 and Klipsch RC52 Center channel, RF15 mains and RB10 surrounds. I also have two Dayton Sub1200's. The Daytons have done an excellent job for only costing a combined $250. The new Ultimax is definitely the star, considering how modest the rest of my system is.
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post #14 of 96 Old 06-14-2014, 12:18 PM
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Nice job. And a thousand thanks for not jumping on the bandwagon and calling it a "MegaMarty" or some such thing just because it features a longitudinally braced slot port.
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post #15 of 96 Old 06-14-2014, 12:42 PM - Thread Starter
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Nice job. And a thousand thanks for not jumping on the bandwagon and calling it a "MegaMarty" or some such thing just because it features a longitudinally braced slot port.
Yeah, my design literally doesn't share a single measurement with that Marty crap!
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post #16 of 96 Old 06-14-2014, 01:37 PM
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Nice


15Hz should do nicely! Good to hear that the 'lowly' iNuke1000 is punching nicely too, compared to all the massive builds on here lol
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post #17 of 96 Old 06-14-2014, 02:18 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by MemX View Post
Nice


15Hz should do nicely! Good to hear that the 'lowly' iNuke1000 is punching nicely too, compared to all the massive builds on here lol
I know. It's easy to get scared into over buying and over building just because you follow these threads and hear that 2000 watts to a single sub is just barely enough to satisfy. It's a bit subjective to say the least!
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post #18 of 96 Old 06-15-2014, 02:58 PM - Thread Starter
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Does anyone have in input on how I should set the limiter on the nu1000 for my application? I have the HPF set at 20hz Linkwitz-Riley 24db. Also, as far as the HPF settings are concerned, why is there a gain knob within that menu?

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post #19 of 96 Old 06-16-2014, 02:47 AM
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well, maybe you could all this one the MARYsub... :-)


...where did the "T" go?


the "T" was lost when you castrated it with the LR4 HP @20hz .


green is with no filter.
black is with LR4 HP @20hz (4 is the order of the filter, which is 6db per, so 24db/oct)
magenta is with a little EQ added back in. alternatively you could use a shelf filter to push the high pass down to around 16hz, but you might feel more comfortable with this one:


Parametric EQ: f=20hz, Q=1.40, gain= +3db





that driver's xmax is around 22mm, Klippel confirmed, so it should have even a little bit more than that as potential. in model, the 1000 amp pushes the driver to just past xmax in your enclosure, suggesting that it should be find with no limiter set. the 1000 watts number isn't really the number. that is a screwball voltage peak figure. the real number is something like 700 watts or so.


btw, if you want to know how to push the high pass filter under 20hz:


How to extend the high pass filter below 20hz in DCX2496


also...great build!


lots of "likes" for you. :-)
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post #20 of 96 Old 06-16-2014, 09:25 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post
well, maybe you could all this one the MARYsub... :-)


...where did the "T" go?


the "T" was lost when you castrated it with the LR4 HP @20hz .


green is with no filter.
black is with LR4 HP @20hz (4 is the order of the filter, which is 6db per, so 24db/oct)
magenta is with a little EQ added back in. alternatively you could use a shelf filter to push the high pass down to around 16hz, but you might feel more comfortable with this one:


Parametric EQ: f=20hz, Q=1.40, gain= +3db





that driver's xmax is around 22mm, Klippel confirmed, so it should have even a little bit more than that as potential. in model, the 1000 amp pushes the driver to just past xmax in your enclosure, suggesting that it should be find with no limiter set. the 1000 watts number isn't really the number. that is a screwball voltage peak figure. the real number is something like 700 watts or so.


btw, if you want to know how to push the high pass filter under 20hz:


How to extend the high pass filter below 20hz in DCX2496


also...great build!


lots of "likes" for you. :-)

You're definitely right about the MARY part! I didn't realize the sub 25hz performance would be effected so much by a HPF at 20hz. Thanks so much for the info! You truly are doing a service out there with your MAMMOTH number of posts! I believe I did hear some noise from the sub the first time I tested it with Cloverfield. I'm not familiar with the different "bad" sounds that subs make when overextended, but I could have sworn it wasn't something coming from the movie soundtrack. I guess I was trying to avoid that again if possible. And I really appreciate the link to the work around. I might try that when playing sub busters like Cloverfield again!
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post #21 of 96 Old 06-17-2014, 05:50 AM
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If you are worried about driver damage, you could always work out your usual playback level, unplug the speakers from the AVR/amp(s), and then run the soundtrack with just the .1 sub channel running - that will mean any high frequency or untoward noise from the drivers should be obvious


Oh, and +1 to thanking LTD for all his help!
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post #22 of 96 Old 06-17-2014, 08:53 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MemX View Post
If you are worried about driver damage, you could always work out your usual playback level, unplug the speakers from the AVR/amp(s), and then run the soundtrack with just the .1 sub channel running - that will mean any high frequency or untoward noise from the drivers should be obvious


Oh, and +1 to thanking LTD for all his help!
Good suggestion for sure! I haven't heard the same sound again so I think it was probably just something from the movie. At the time, I had the sub on the table that I built it on. Which was near the front left speaker.
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post #23 of 96 Old 06-17-2014, 08:58 AM - Thread Starter
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Duratex applied and it looks great. It's a bit tough to get even but I think it's worth the $55/gallon price tag.
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post #24 of 96 Old 06-17-2014, 11:19 AM
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Sweet build ! In a few months you'll be like me and all your speakers will be diy
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post #25 of 96 Old 06-17-2014, 12:48 PM - Thread Starter
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Putting a bow on this one and calling it FINISHED! Tons of thanks to everyone on this thread for so much great information. I'm officially addicted!
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post #26 of 96 Old 06-17-2014, 03:06 PM - Thread Starter
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Just wanted to add that the total cost on this project was about $670, including the amp. Not bad considering the awesome results. And I'm not sure what it weighs, but I'm guessing 200+ pounds. It's a freakin beast.
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post #27 of 96 Old 06-23-2014, 10:18 AM
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Sweet, you should be very happy with that!
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post #28 of 96 Old 06-23-2014, 11:35 AM - Thread Starter
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Sweet, you should be very happy with that!
I most certainly am happy with it! The Ultimax is starting to break in and sounds excellent. Scary at times! I'm getting flat response down to about 16 hz and haven't seen the clip light once on the inuke.
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post #29 of 96 Old 06-23-2014, 12:26 PM
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Looks good! Can you give me more details on the port dimensions please?
I have the 15" ultimax in a sealed box now and would like to get more output with out buying more speakers, seems like this would work.

Thanks
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post #30 of 96 Old 06-23-2014, 12:49 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djhamp View Post
Looks good! Can you give me more details on the port dimensions please?
I have the 15" ultimax in a sealed box now and would like to get more output with out buying more speakers, seems like this would work.

Thanks
This box came out to about 11.2 cf net after bracing, so I needed a 60" port for 15hz tuning. The port opening is 18" when you remove the bracing width as well. I used 1x4's for the port bracing which come out to roughly .75"x3.5". The port top panel is 45.75" long and I have a 14" piece extending it vertically within the box. This adds up to 59.75", but that's the outside dimension of the port. If you measure it down the middle, it's actually 63.5" long. With this large of a port diameter, I probably wouldn't hear any port noise even with two 18's. And obviously I don't hear any at all currently. The peak air velocity at about 15 hz is something like 16 m/s.

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