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-   -   1099 and MartyCube Build (http://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/1569554-1099-martycube-build.html)

Wieber86 06-17-2014 09:30 AM

1099 and MartyCube Build
 
I received my three 1099 kits last week and am going to start my build (weather permitting) this weekend. Going for a Paradigm Monitor series look on the 1099s, made from BB with a dark mahogany stain, and white cloth speaker grill. I am also making a matching set of smaller (12" Titanic MK 4) ported subs. These will make up my 3.2 living room set-up.

For my future basement set-up, I am building a set of MartyCubes with the SI HT 15". For those I am hoping to go for a Kef R-Series look made from MDF in a gloss white finish.

For my parents I am building a set of small (10" Titanic MK 3) down firing sealed sub. Those will be satin white with 500W plate amps.

This is my first speaker build so it seems like a lot, but I am hoping it is a lot of fun as well.

Also big thanks to Tux and Erich for designing and making the 1099 available, as well as Donny and LTD02 for all there work on the MartyCube.

And first up is the 1099 crossover...

chalugadp 06-17-2014 12:20 PM

Have fun and lots of pics :)

kevings 06-17-2014 01:47 PM

Hi, you are going to be BUSY: )

dark mahongony with a white grill should look great / unique / interesting.

Im looking forward to pics as well!

Noman74656 06-17-2014 01:54 PM

I look forward to following this thread!

Wieber86 06-17-2014 04:26 PM

1 Attachment(s)
I laid out the crossover and I think I have everything right, not 100% sure though.

tuxedocivic 06-17-2014 04:41 PM

Looks like you've got it to me. That's quite an interesting template you printed out. How'd you do that?

Wieber86 06-17-2014 06:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tuxedocivic (Post 25046626)
Looks like you've got it to me. That's quite an interesting template you printed out. How'd you do that?

Good to hear I don't have to change anything, thanks for looking it over Tux.

I layed out the parts on a sheet of blank paper, drew the connections, and took a picture of that. Then using photoshop converted my not so clean pen lines to the ones shown in the picture.

Erich H 06-17-2014 06:32 PM

That would probably help people out.

Wieber86 06-18-2014 06:58 AM

The main reason I laid it out like that is because I will be attempting to make my own PCBs, and to do that I will need to print out the traces.
It's supposed to rain here, again, but I am hoping by the end of the week to be done those. I don't feel like trying, for the first time, to etch boards inside.

russell_thiessen 06-21-2014 09:09 AM

What my brother-in-law failed to mention is he had his graphic designer wife make the templates for him :eek:

Boxozaxu 06-21-2014 01:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wieber86 (Post 25058266)
The main reason I laid it out like that is because I will be attempting to make my own PCBs, and to do that I will need to print out the traces.
It's supposed to rain here, again, but I am hoping by the end of the week to be done those. I don't feel like trying, for the first time, to etch boards inside.

Are you attempting the laser printer, clothes iron and muriatic acid method for etching the PCBs? That's cool. Post pictures!

Wieber86 06-22-2014 09:25 PM

5 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by russell_thiessen (Post 25146002)
What my brother-in-law failed to mention is he had his graphic designer wife make the templates for him :eek:

She also did the ironing...

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boxozaxu (Post 25151370)
Are you attempting the laser printer, clothes iron and muriatic acid method for etching the PCBs? That's cool. Post pictures!

It actually worked fairly well. I will probably have to put a couple of wire jumpers on it, and clean it a bit better, but learned a fair bit about what to do and not do. Going to bring my DMM home from work to check continuity before I solder, but drilled all my holes and laid everything out.

tuxedocivic 06-22-2014 09:57 PM

Always something new in the DIY forum. Very cool.

beefbuzz 06-22-2014 10:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wieber86 (Post 25180370)
She also did the ironing...



It actually worked fairly well. I will probably have to put a couple of wire jumpers on it, and clean it a bit better, but learned a fair bit about what to do and not do. Going to bring my DMM home from work to check continuity before I solder, but drilled all my holes and laid everything out.

Looks to me like you did pretty well for your first try! What I have always done after etching a board is to go over it lightly with some steel wool to shine it up and then tin all the traces with solder. Do small sections at a time so that you do not overheat and warp the board. What this does is increase the current capability by several times as well as protect the raw copper from corrosion.

dtsdig 06-23-2014 06:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by beefbuzz (Post 25181050)
Looks to me like you did pretty well for your first try! What I have always done after etching a board is to go over it lightly with some steel wool to shine it up and then tin all the traces with solder. Do small sections at a time so that you do not overheat and warp the board. What this does is increase the current capability by several times as well as protect the raw copper from corrosion.

That's exactly what I was going to suggest too. In the industry, a basic board that is not going to be nickel and gold plated (or other type of plating) will have a thin layer of solder covering all of the copper to protect it. The resulting "plating" type is called HASL standing for Hot Air Solder Level. The boards are essentially immersed in liquid solder and then run through a conveyor of some type that uses a high pressure, high heat "air knife" to remove the excess solder and leave a nice smooth coat on the traces and lands.

dtsdig 06-23-2014 06:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wieber86 (Post 25180370)
She also did the ironing...
It actually worked fairly well. I will probably have to put a couple of wire jumpers on it, and clean it a bit better, but learned a fair bit about what to do and not do. Going to bring my DMM home from work to check continuity before I solder, but drilled all my holes and laid everything out.

You did a great job here! I seriously considered doing this for my 1099 crossover boards but didn't want the extra costs. One of the bigger projects in the electronics courses that I took in high school was to design and layout a circuit and then create a PWB in a similar fashion that you did. It's really cool stuff! :)

Boxozaxu 06-23-2014 09:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wieber86 (Post 25180370)
She also did the ironing...

It actually worked fairly well. I will probably have to put a couple of wire jumpers on it, and clean it a bit better, but learned a fair bit about what to do and not do. Going to bring my DMM home from work to check continuity before I solder, but drilled all my holes and laid everything out.

Wow, those boards look great! I'm really looking forward to the rest of your build. I think the dark mahogany and white speaker grill is going to look really nice.

Quote:

Originally Posted by beefbuzz (Post 25181050)
Looks to me like you did pretty well for your first try! What I have always done after etching a board is to go over it lightly with some steel wool to shine it up and then tin all the traces with solder. Do small sections at a time so that you do not overheat and warp the board. What this does is increase the current capability by several times as well as protect the raw copper from corrosion.

Quote:

Originally Posted by dtsdig (Post 25185489)
You did a great job here! I seriously considered doing this for my 1099 crossover boards but didn't want the extra costs. One of the bigger projects in the electronics courses that I took in high school was to design and layout a circuit and then create a PWB in a similar fashion that you did. It's really cool stuff! :)

How about a circuit board lacquer spray? How well do those work? You don't get the increased current as with tinning the traces like beefbuzz suggests but spraying the boards sounds fast and easy.

dtsdig 06-23-2014 10:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boxozaxu (Post 25190577)
How about a circuit board lacquer spray? How well do those work? You don't get the increased current as with tinning the traces like beefbuzz suggests but spraying the boards sounds fast and easy.

For the purpose of just preventing the copper from oxidizing further, I think that would be fine.

Wieber86 07-10-2014 05:54 PM

6 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by beefbuzz (Post 25181050)
Looks to me like you did pretty well for your first try! What I have always done after etching a board is to go over it lightly with some steel wool to shine it up and then tin all the traces with solder. Do small sections at a time so that you do not overheat and warp the board. What this does is increase the current capability by several times as well as protect the raw copper from corrosion.

Thanks. I completely forgot I had to tin the traces, thanks for pointing that out. I got them tinned last week and one of them didn't make it, one long stretch seems to be messed up. So going to make one the old fashioned way this weekend.

It seems like it has been raining for a week, and when it isn't raining I seem to be busy, but yesterday my brother and I had a spare couple of hours and started on the MartyCubes. Got both of them to the same point, before he had to go. Hoping to finish the Cubes and start the 1099s early next week.

chalugadp 07-10-2014 06:33 PM

Is that port 2" high. Looks like micro-cube port.

Wieber86 07-10-2014 07:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chalugadp (Post 25647785)
Is that port 2" high. Looks like micro-cube port.

It is 2", just measured it quick. I took your cut sheet from the MartySub Flatpack thread, and used that. BTW your instruction booklet is awesome and thanks for putting that together.

chalugadp 07-10-2014 07:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wieber86 (Post 25649073)
It is 2", just measured it quick. I took your cut sheet from the MartySub Flatpack thread, and used that. BTW your instruction booklet is awesome and thanks for putting that together.

thanks, your going to love the sub

Bassment 07-11-2014 07:33 AM

Cool crossover, and nice cuts on the wood. I bet your speakers are going to look amazing.

cw5billwade 07-22-2014 11:19 AM

updates

Wieber86 07-27-2014 09:13 AM

2 Attachment(s)
I haven't had a ton of spare time lately with how busy work has been, but I did get the ports painted on the MartyCubes, and I almost finished my replacement XOver, just have to clean it up.

tuxedocivic 07-27-2014 10:31 AM

Nice XO work!!!

Yukichon 07-27-2014 07:50 PM

Good luck, I'm going to order the 1099's so will watch this with interest

chalugadp 07-27-2014 07:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yukichon (Post 26089106)
Good luck, I'm going to order the 1099's so will watch this with interest

Are you hitting refresh as often as me [emoji12]

Yukichon 07-27-2014 08:05 PM

Lol....Erich emailed me when I first paid interest and said he had enough parts for about 100 speakers, so obviously they are VERY popular ....will have to wait my turn

chalugadp 07-27-2014 08:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yukichon (Post 26089474)
Lol....Erich emailed me when I first paid interest and said he had enough parts for about 100 speakers, so obviously they are VERY popular ....will have to wait my turn

Its like being 13 again isn't it [emoji33]


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