1099 and MartyCube Build - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 35 Old 06-17-2014, 09:30 AM - Thread Starter
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1099 and MartyCube Build

I received my three 1099 kits last week and am going to start my build (weather permitting) this weekend. Going for a Paradigm Monitor series look on the 1099s, made from BB with a dark mahogany stain, and white cloth speaker grill. I am also making a matching set of smaller (12" Titanic MK 4) ported subs. These will make up my 3.2 living room set-up.

For my future basement set-up, I am building a set of MartyCubes with the SI HT 15". For those I am hoping to go for a Kef R-Series look made from MDF in a gloss white finish.

For my parents I am building a set of small (10" Titanic MK 3) down firing sealed sub. Those will be satin white with 500W plate amps.

This is my first speaker build so it seems like a lot, but I am hoping it is a lot of fun as well.

Also big thanks to Tux and Erich for designing and making the 1099 available, as well as Donny and LTD02 for all there work on the MartyCube.

And first up is the 1099 crossover...
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post #2 of 35 Old 06-17-2014, 12:20 PM
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Have fun and lots of pics
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post #3 of 35 Old 06-17-2014, 01:47 PM
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Hi, you are going to be BUSY: )

dark mahongony with a white grill should look great / unique / interesting.

Im looking forward to pics as well!
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post #4 of 35 Old 06-17-2014, 01:54 PM
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I look forward to following this thread!

"In nature there are neither rewards nor punishments; there are consequences."Robert Green Ingersoll

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My Theater
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post #5 of 35 Old 06-17-2014, 04:26 PM - Thread Starter
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I laid out the crossover and I think I have everything right, not 100% sure though.
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post #6 of 35 Old 06-17-2014, 04:41 PM
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Looks like you've got it to me. That's quite an interesting template you printed out. How'd you do that?
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post #7 of 35 Old 06-17-2014, 06:31 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tuxedocivic View Post
Looks like you've got it to me. That's quite an interesting template you printed out. How'd you do that?
Good to hear I don't have to change anything, thanks for looking it over Tux.

I layed out the parts on a sheet of blank paper, drew the connections, and took a picture of that. Then using photoshop converted my not so clean pen lines to the ones shown in the picture.
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post #8 of 35 Old 06-17-2014, 06:32 PM
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post #9 of 35 Old 06-18-2014, 06:58 AM - Thread Starter
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The main reason I laid it out like that is because I will be attempting to make my own PCBs, and to do that I will need to print out the traces.
It's supposed to rain here, again, but I am hoping by the end of the week to be done those. I don't feel like trying, for the first time, to etch boards inside.
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post #10 of 35 Old 06-21-2014, 09:09 AM
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What my brother-in-law failed to mention is he had his graphic designer wife make the templates for him
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post #11 of 35 Old 06-21-2014, 01:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wieber86 View Post
The main reason I laid it out like that is because I will be attempting to make my own PCBs, and to do that I will need to print out the traces.
It's supposed to rain here, again, but I am hoping by the end of the week to be done those. I don't feel like trying, for the first time, to etch boards inside.
Are you attempting the laser printer, clothes iron and muriatic acid method for etching the PCBs? That's cool. Post pictures!
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post #12 of 35 Old 06-22-2014, 09:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by russell_thiessen View Post
What my brother-in-law failed to mention is he had his graphic designer wife make the templates for him
She also did the ironing...

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Originally Posted by Boxozaxu View Post
Are you attempting the laser printer, clothes iron and muriatic acid method for etching the PCBs? That's cool. Post pictures!
It actually worked fairly well. I will probably have to put a couple of wire jumpers on it, and clean it a bit better, but learned a fair bit about what to do and not do. Going to bring my DMM home from work to check continuity before I solder, but drilled all my holes and laid everything out.
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post #13 of 35 Old 06-22-2014, 09:57 PM
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Always something new in the DIY forum. Very cool.
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post #14 of 35 Old 06-22-2014, 10:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wieber86 View Post
She also did the ironing...



It actually worked fairly well. I will probably have to put a couple of wire jumpers on it, and clean it a bit better, but learned a fair bit about what to do and not do. Going to bring my DMM home from work to check continuity before I solder, but drilled all my holes and laid everything out.
Looks to me like you did pretty well for your first try! What I have always done after etching a board is to go over it lightly with some steel wool to shine it up and then tin all the traces with solder. Do small sections at a time so that you do not overheat and warp the board. What this does is increase the current capability by several times as well as protect the raw copper from corrosion.
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post #15 of 35 Old 06-23-2014, 06:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beefbuzz View Post
Looks to me like you did pretty well for your first try! What I have always done after etching a board is to go over it lightly with some steel wool to shine it up and then tin all the traces with solder. Do small sections at a time so that you do not overheat and warp the board. What this does is increase the current capability by several times as well as protect the raw copper from corrosion.
That's exactly what I was going to suggest too. In the industry, a basic board that is not going to be nickel and gold plated (or other type of plating) will have a thin layer of solder covering all of the copper to protect it. The resulting "plating" type is called HASL standing for Hot Air Solder Level. The boards are essentially immersed in liquid solder and then run through a conveyor of some type that uses a high pressure, high heat "air knife" to remove the excess solder and leave a nice smooth coat on the traces and lands.
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post #16 of 35 Old 06-23-2014, 06:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wieber86 View Post
She also did the ironing...
It actually worked fairly well. I will probably have to put a couple of wire jumpers on it, and clean it a bit better, but learned a fair bit about what to do and not do. Going to bring my DMM home from work to check continuity before I solder, but drilled all my holes and laid everything out.
You did a great job here! I seriously considered doing this for my 1099 crossover boards but didn't want the extra costs. One of the bigger projects in the electronics courses that I took in high school was to design and layout a circuit and then create a PWB in a similar fashion that you did. It's really cool stuff!
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post #17 of 35 Old 06-23-2014, 09:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wieber86 View Post
She also did the ironing...

It actually worked fairly well. I will probably have to put a couple of wire jumpers on it, and clean it a bit better, but learned a fair bit about what to do and not do. Going to bring my DMM home from work to check continuity before I solder, but drilled all my holes and laid everything out.
Wow, those boards look great! I'm really looking forward to the rest of your build. I think the dark mahogany and white speaker grill is going to look really nice.

Quote:
Originally Posted by beefbuzz View Post
Looks to me like you did pretty well for your first try! What I have always done after etching a board is to go over it lightly with some steel wool to shine it up and then tin all the traces with solder. Do small sections at a time so that you do not overheat and warp the board. What this does is increase the current capability by several times as well as protect the raw copper from corrosion.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dtsdig View Post
You did a great job here! I seriously considered doing this for my 1099 crossover boards but didn't want the extra costs. One of the bigger projects in the electronics courses that I took in high school was to design and layout a circuit and then create a PWB in a similar fashion that you did. It's really cool stuff!
How about a circuit board lacquer spray? How well do those work? You don't get the increased current as with tinning the traces like beefbuzz suggests but spraying the boards sounds fast and easy.
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post #18 of 35 Old 06-23-2014, 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Boxozaxu View Post
How about a circuit board lacquer spray? How well do those work? You don't get the increased current as with tinning the traces like beefbuzz suggests but spraying the boards sounds fast and easy.
For the purpose of just preventing the copper from oxidizing further, I think that would be fine.
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post #19 of 35 Old 07-10-2014, 05:54 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by beefbuzz View Post
Looks to me like you did pretty well for your first try! What I have always done after etching a board is to go over it lightly with some steel wool to shine it up and then tin all the traces with solder. Do small sections at a time so that you do not overheat and warp the board. What this does is increase the current capability by several times as well as protect the raw copper from corrosion.
Thanks. I completely forgot I had to tin the traces, thanks for pointing that out. I got them tinned last week and one of them didn't make it, one long stretch seems to be messed up. So going to make one the old fashioned way this weekend.

It seems like it has been raining for a week, and when it isn't raining I seem to be busy, but yesterday my brother and I had a spare couple of hours and started on the MartyCubes. Got both of them to the same point, before he had to go. Hoping to finish the Cubes and start the 1099s early next week.
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Last edited by Wieber86; 07-11-2014 at 04:31 PM.
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post #20 of 35 Old 07-10-2014, 06:33 PM
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Is that port 2" high. Looks like micro-cube port.
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post #21 of 35 Old 07-10-2014, 07:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Is that port 2" high. Looks like micro-cube port.
It is 2", just measured it quick. I took your cut sheet from the MartySub Flatpack thread, and used that. BTW your instruction booklet is awesome and thanks for putting that together.
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post #22 of 35 Old 07-10-2014, 07:37 PM
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It is 2", just measured it quick. I took your cut sheet from the MartySub Flatpack thread, and used that. BTW your instruction booklet is awesome and thanks for putting that together.
thanks, your going to love the sub
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post #23 of 35 Old 07-11-2014, 07:33 AM
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Cool crossover, and nice cuts on the wood. I bet your speakers are going to look amazing.
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post #24 of 35 Old 07-22-2014, 11:19 AM
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post #25 of 35 Old 07-27-2014, 09:13 AM - Thread Starter
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I haven't had a ton of spare time lately with how busy work has been, but I did get the ports painted on the MartyCubes, and I almost finished my replacement XOver, just have to clean it up.
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post #26 of 35 Old 07-27-2014, 10:31 AM
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Nice XO work!!!
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post #27 of 35 Old 07-27-2014, 07:50 PM
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Good luck, I'm going to order the 1099's so will watch this with interest
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post #28 of 35 Old 07-27-2014, 07:57 PM
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Good luck, I'm going to order the 1099's so will watch this with interest
Are you hitting refresh as often as me [emoji12]
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post #29 of 35 Old 07-27-2014, 08:05 PM
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Lol....Erich emailed me when I first paid interest and said he had enough parts for about 100 speakers, so obviously they are VERY popular ....will have to wait my turn
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post #30 of 35 Old 07-27-2014, 08:33 PM
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Lol....Erich emailed me when I first paid interest and said he had enough parts for about 100 speakers, so obviously they are VERY popular ....will have to wait my turn
Its like being 13 again isn't it [emoji33]
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