verticle marty w/ front port build thread - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 183 Old 06-17-2014, 12:13 PM - Thread Starter
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verticle marty w/ front port build thread

okay I got a start on my box today


so far I have cut 4 48x24 inch pieces out of 3/4 sanderply plyood


I have also started to piece it together, one side is being guled and bar clamped as we speak.


how long do u guys usually let you glue dry for before taking the clamps off?

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post #2 of 183 Old 06-17-2014, 12:24 PM
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If its gorilla glue or titebond an hour will be enough.
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post #3 of 183 Old 06-17-2014, 12:37 PM - Thread Starter
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cool yes its titebond 2

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post #4 of 183 Old 06-17-2014, 12:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newc33 View Post
cool yes its titebond 2


About to start a similar build . What plans are you using ?
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post #5 of 183 Old 06-17-2014, 01:28 PM
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Sounds like the Marty are still popular! Keep em rockin guys!

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post #6 of 183 Old 06-17-2014, 01:41 PM
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Nice job getting it started. Post up some pics when you have a chance.
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post #7 of 183 Old 06-17-2014, 01:55 PM
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time well spent on your build

take a look at Kevings pictures
when we built and used Kreg screws to assist holding stuff together,
the down time waiting for adhesive to set up was almost non-existent
we used plenty of PL on the actual joints and then used more at every important seam

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post #8 of 183 Old 06-17-2014, 02:37 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kingcobra777 View Post
About to start a similar build . What plans are you using ?

im using kevings build.


48x24x24


im gona run the exact same port leng and width but im doing the opposite angle so it comes out the bottom.


I like to feel the air come out the front plus I have a bad habbit of setting stuff on top of my subs lol

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post #9 of 183 Old 06-17-2014, 02:38 PM - Thread Starter
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ill post a couple pics later today

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post #10 of 183 Old 06-17-2014, 02:47 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asarose247 View Post
take a look at Kevings pictures
when we built and used Kreg screws to assist holding stuff together,
the down time waiting for adhesive to set up was almost non-existent
we used plenty of PL on the actual joints and then used more at every important seam

what to u mean by PL on the joints? was wondering what all that stuff was ..


also it looks like he screwed it together from the inside out. why is that?

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post #11 of 183 Old 06-17-2014, 07:52 PM
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newcc,

Will ( asarose247 / my DIY enclosure building sensei ) is talking about PL glue. It's a very strong adhesive. It ruins clothes and takes like 32 years to get off of your hands once it gets on them: ) When Will says we used it on the joints he just means we used it where the wood pieces came together and touched.

Did you watch the video that Donny ( chalugadp ) posted showing the construction of a marty sub? If so you saw him do the same thing except that he used gorilla glue.

in addition to the pl glue, we also used "kreg screws and a kreg screw jig". You are correct, in noticing that we screwed it from the inside out, but we did it this way because then there are no screw holes on the exterior panels to patch up, prior to painting. Using kreg screws really isnt necessary and it also adds time to your build, but it sure does make the enclosure strong, especially when combined with the PL glue!
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post #12 of 183 Old 06-18-2014, 11:33 AM - Thread Starter
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so if im keeping the slot port the same length (40 inches) then ill just have 21 inches running on the bottom which will angle up the back side another 19 inches correct?

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post #13 of 183 Old 06-18-2014, 12:12 PM
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So like I said in my PM you want to measure the length from the middle of the port. Hopefully this picture will help explain.


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post #14 of 183 Old 06-18-2014, 12:18 PM - Thread Starter
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ohhhhhh okay I gotcha now makes perfect sense


no I gotta figure out my atuall length. man im having a hard time here with this part. im a little confused

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post #15 of 183 Old 06-18-2014, 01:14 PM
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Port length should be 32 inches total, for a 17 hz tune.

The bottom of you enclosure is 24 so your port will run that entire length plus 8 inches up the back.

( look at the photo that brown posted for clarification).

Does that make sense?

If not, and u still need help, u can call me after 7pm and I should be home ( in Minneapolis now for work, but back in California by tonight).
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post #16 of 183 Old 06-18-2014, 02:59 PM - Thread Starter
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okay yes that makes perfect sense


I was confused because on your one cut marty plans its says 32 inches but the exterior plans picture says 40 inches


also the bottom port should only run 21 inches across the bottom (not the full 24inch length) because u have to subtract 3 inches for the port depth unless im missing something.


cool im gona start building the ports now

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post #17 of 183 Old 06-18-2014, 03:01 PM - Thread Starter
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ohhh but to correct myself im measuring from the middle of the port...


ill brb with meassurments

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post #18 of 183 Old 06-18-2014, 04:59 PM - Thread Starter
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Wish I could figure out how to post a pic

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post #19 of 183 Old 06-18-2014, 05:48 PM
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Try and search the forum for directions on how to post a picture… I want to make sure that you get the ports done correctly.

A pic would help us know if your on the right track.
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post #20 of 183 Old 06-18-2014, 06:29 PM - Thread Starter
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okay guys so I switched up my ports a little.


I did the 3 inch tall but put a 14 inch long piece up the back and I now have a total of 38 inch long port when measuring from the center of the port


this should give me a lil lower port tune while still not having to worry much about port chuffing

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post #21 of 183 Old 06-18-2014, 08:38 PM - Thread Starter
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Can't wait hear what the grenade scene sounds like in wwz with the dual martys and dual fv15hp set up

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post #22 of 183 Old 06-18-2014, 09:59 PM
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post #23 of 183 Old 06-19-2014, 08:55 AM - Thread Starter
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post #24 of 183 Old 06-19-2014, 08:59 AM - Thread Starter
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post #25 of 183 Old 06-19-2014, 09:04 AM - Thread Starter
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okay so the box is coming together alright.


first of all I had no corner tools to clamp to and make perfet angles so I just used a level. when the glue dried is moved slightly everything is pretty squar.


also I had a hard time putting the port rails up the back. as u can see in the picture there is a small gap after it dried last night. you guys can see in the picture what im talking about. what can I do to fix this? I cant get a clamp on it... im stumped there


overall im happy with my build so far however iv made a couple mistakes that ill learn from the next time.


also I had more pics but I cant figure out how to get them on with my cell phone right now

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post #26 of 183 Old 06-19-2014, 10:34 AM
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Newcc,

Looking pretty damn good so far! nice work.

The little gap with the port brace is pretty minor, and im guessing it wouldn't make a difference sounds wise. Still though, to fix it i would do one of 2 things. First you could just fill i up with glue. Position the box so that gravity assist you, and maybe tape up the sides of the brace so that the glue wont spill out the sides....then just fill it up and let it dry.

idea 2 - use a screw and come through the outside of the enclosure. When the screw hits the brace it should suck it in enough to close up the gap. I would drill a pilot hole first though, since this will lessen the chances of the brace splitting.

And ps - dont sweat the mistakes, as long as they are small ones. ( once the driver gets mounted no one is ever going to see into the enclosure anyways )
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post #27 of 183 Old 06-19-2014, 11:07 AM
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Yeah if your not making mistakes your not learning. Just run a bead of silicone or pl adhesive for that crack.
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post #28 of 183 Old 06-19-2014, 11:14 AM
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Quote:
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Yeah if your not making mistakes your not learning. Just run a bead of silicone or pl adhesive for that crack.
very true.

pl would work really good, because it expands a bit as it drys. it's also rock hard, after drying.
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post #29 of 183 Old 06-19-2014, 11:24 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks Kevings for the positive comment lol I'm glad to hear u think its coming along nice and that the crack is minor/fixable

Your second recommendation is actually what I did initially. I me assured over on the back and put 3 inch and a half screws in each rail. I think the reason it didn't work as well as I hoped is because 2 things. First I didn't make a piolet hole and second I couldn't reach around to put some pressure on the rail against my drill as I was drilling.

Another thing I just thought of was regular gorrila glue for that crack. It expands like 300 times and is rock hard when dry. I have some already, what do ya think?

Thanks again for the help guys. Again I have no one to help me with this so I went into it pretty blind. You guys have been my lifelines on the project and I really appreciate it and your patients with a noon like myself

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post #30 of 183 Old 06-19-2014, 12:22 PM
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Paint the inside of the ports if you can before you put the top part of the port on. You'll be happy you did later
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