Living Room " Micro-Cube " - Page 4 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #91 of 514 Old 06-18-2014, 01:10 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jbrown15 View Post
Yeah that's not happening, I don't really feel like dragging a massive 150lbs sub upstairs out into my backyard. Why not just bring this micro cube over? It's a hell of a lot easier to pack that around then getting mine out of my basement.
forgot that their taken outside. Can bring da micro over. Your neighbours won't mind the sound ?
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post #92 of 514 Old 06-18-2014, 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post
forgot that their taken outside. Can bring da micro over. Your neighbours won't mind the sound ?

LOL.... like I care, I'm hosting this thing in the middle of the day!...lol
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post #93 of 514 Old 06-18-2014, 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post
Something I will do is simply block the ports and see how I like sealed. Can take some measurements of both and see what I like better. Easy to block ports and when I do veneer it will work either way.
thanks guys

That's a good point. With ported, you can always block the ports and make it sealed. With sealed, it's sorta tricky to grow the box size and add ports without total reconstruction
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post #94 of 514 Old 06-18-2014, 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by tuxedocivic View Post
The first post compares a ported and sealed version of this driver...
I agree but why start a debate here on which is better? Besides I was directing that towards the comment about "meh I would rather have 6 sealed" or whatever. Maybe I took that post the wrong way. If so my apologies.
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post #95 of 514 Old 06-18-2014, 01:54 PM
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Originally Posted by tuxedocivic View Post
That's a good point. With ported, you can always block the ports and make it sealed. With sealed, it's sorta tricky to grow the box size and add ports without total reconstruction
And that is where round ports are nice. Shoving foam/towels into ports imo, isn't the best solution. With a round port, you can use expandable plumbing pipe plugs.
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post #96 of 514 Old 06-18-2014, 02:02 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Anthony_Gomez View Post
And that is where round ports are nice. Shoving foam/towels into ports imo, isn't the best solution. With a round port, you can use expandable plumbing pipe plugs.
Simply cut 3 rectangle blocks out of MDF that are a snug fit. Tap them in .5".
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post #97 of 514 Old 06-18-2014, 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post
Simply cut 3 rectangle blocks out of MDF that are a snug fit. Tap them in .5".
that doesnt' work well in a finished sub without causing surface damage. Also, the sides will leak all around and then you need to model the sub as having a sizable leak. Basically acting like an aperiodic vent which will lower the Q and raise the F3 of the normally sealed sub.
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post #98 of 514 Old 06-18-2014, 02:10 PM - Thread Starter
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I will try the blocks when its unfinished, assembled. I can cut a block that will fit snug, no air leak, and when I pull it out you won't know it was their. 30 years of woodwork comes in handy sometimes. I wouldn't recommend it for beginners since there tolerances are closer to 1/16".

I could also just pin nail on a cover and then pull it off. That is actually a lot easier. Good ideas on the fly. Enough sealed talk, I luv ported
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post #99 of 514 Old 06-18-2014, 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post
I don't have room or amps for six. Myself I have no interest in sub 18hz content.
What has made you come to this conclusion? Just wondering. I know everyone has their preferences of what they want their frequency response to be, but I have found 16 and 17 Hz to provide EXTREMELY tactile rumbling from movie LFE and would never consider intentionally not producing solid output into that range. Below 15 I am not overly concerned with, as I have a dual purpose living room and it would be very hard for me to produce the SPL needed that low to matter at all. I have been flat at reasonable levels to 10 Hz and below 15 produced zero noticeable effect.....16 Hz was VERY noticeable and produced a lot of shake and rumble, even at moderate volume. I feel like I would be missing a very substantial part of the LFE experience if I produced nothing below 18 or 20. The famous rumble in "Bass I love You" for example, is 17 Hz if not mistaken. Another I can think of off the top of my head is the OHF Washington Monument scene....almost all the energy in that scene is focused heavily like 15 Hz to low 20's. My subs are solid down to 15/16 and kick ass hard on that scene.
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post #100 of 514 Old 06-18-2014, 02:53 PM - Thread Starter
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I watch everything in my living room. W e watch a lot of TV, I watch sports, and music, and 6to8 movies a month. So 80% non movies. My current set up can hit 115dB' at 17 hz. I don't feel much tactile at all. I think with two sub's right beside me I will feel more.

I love building.
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post #101 of 514 Old 06-18-2014, 02:54 PM - Thread Starter
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I am sure there is a scene here and there but for me I'm not interested in less then 2% of my months listening experience.
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post #102 of 514 Old 06-18-2014, 02:57 PM - Thread Starter
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I will still be able to hit 110 dB's at 17hz with the micros.
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post #103 of 514 Old 06-18-2014, 03:17 PM
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How do you plan on finishing them?
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post #104 of 514 Old 06-18-2014, 03:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jbrown15 View Post
How do you plan on finishing them?
You know I don't know. There bass bins below and my future mains on top of front two. Maybe black walnut sub and maple mains.

Or might just duratex all the sub's. Mains will be a veneer for sure.

What do you think ?
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post #105 of 514 Old 06-18-2014, 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post
You know I don't know. There bass bins below and my future mains on top of front two. Maybe black walnut sub and maple mains.

Or might just duratex all the sub's. Mains will be a veneer for sure.

What do you think ?
You should build it and then I could talk to my buddy about putting a nice automotive finish on it, like a nice black satin finish.
That would look really sharp.
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post #106 of 514 Old 06-18-2014, 03:53 PM - Thread Starter
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You should build it and then I could talk to my buddy about putting a nice automotive finish on it, like a nice black satin finish.
That would look really sharp.
Hey I like that idea !!!!!
What would that cost for four ?
Maybe I could build him a sub for barter.
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post #107 of 514 Old 06-18-2014, 05:18 PM
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Hey I like that idea !!!!!
What would that cost for four ?
Maybe I could build him a sub for barter.
I'll find out and let you know, he's not really a home theater guy.
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post #108 of 514 Old 06-18-2014, 05:31 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jbrown15 View Post
I'll find out and let you know, he's not really a home theater guy.
Also ask what prep work he needs me to do.

On the opposite scale of the micro is the super mega build
[/URL]

This is a 30cuft monster flat pack I made for someone
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post #109 of 514 Old 06-18-2014, 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post
My woodshop is unavailable right now(on strike) so i will be building my first microcube with just skillsaw, router, and clamps. Going old school. I will maybe do a little video build of this for people who don't have all the tools. Yes you need a skillsaw, jigsaw not accurate enough for long straight cuts , unless your going to flush trim everything.
What type of router do you recommend? Is it the fix base or plunger type? This is new to me. May go to Sears tomorrow also got a $100 giftcard and points to use there
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post #110 of 514 Old 06-18-2014, 07:08 PM - Thread Starter
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What type of router do you recommend? Is it the fix base or plunger type? This is new to me. May go to Sears tomorrow also got a $100 giftcard and points to use there
I love and have this one
http://m.sears.com/bosch-pr10e-colt-single-speed-palm-router/p-SPM5896769407

Easy to use and quick change bit. Can do a 3/8" roundover and smooth.have built 27 sub's with it and going strong. Easy to cut out baffle.
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post #111 of 514 Old 06-18-2014, 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post
I love and have this one
http://m.sears.com/bosch-pr10e-colt-...-SPM5896769407

Easy to use and quick change bit. Can do a 3/8" roundover and smooth.have built 27 sub's with it and going strong. Easy to cut out baffle.
Are any of the craftsman models decent?
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post #112 of 514 Old 06-18-2014, 08:06 PM - Thread Starter
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Could be but I have 15 years of using Bosch and they have always been great for me. I often don't buy brand names (just bought some clone golf clubs which are great by the way) but for certain tools I do. I like dewalt and Bosch and for smaller tools I will use ryobi. Craftsmen is a good name but I would get the Bosch
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post #113 of 514 Old 06-18-2014, 08:09 PM
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I bought a no name brand laminate router for $49, I had to resist buying that Bosch one that chalugadp has because its a really nice one. But I don't plan of building 27 subs either, so the cheaper one was good enough for the "weekend warrior"....lol
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post #114 of 514 Old 06-18-2014, 08:12 PM
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I bought a no name brand laminate router for $49, I had to resist buying that Bosch one that chalugadp has because its a really nice one. But I don't plan of building 27 subs either, so the cheaper one was good enough for the "weekend warrior"....lol
Does it matter if it is fixed base or plunger style ? im not familiar with routers
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post #115 of 514 Old 06-18-2014, 08:16 PM
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Does it matter if it is fixed base or plunger style ? im not familiar with routers

The laminate routers are the smaller handheld units that you can basically operate with one hand, the plunger style units are much bigger and have bigger motors. You'd want to use a plunger style one if you were going to use a 1/2" round over bit, 3/8" and smaller and you'd be fine with a laminate router, they are also a little easier to work with. I have both, but prefer using my laminate router.
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post #116 of 514 Old 06-18-2014, 08:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Does it matter if it is fixed base or plunger style ? im not familiar with routers
You want plunge. Then you don't have to move bit. That Bosch router is 40 bucks cheaper in us then Canada. If your only using router once then get a cheapie. If your going to use it more then 3 times spend the dough.
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post #117 of 514 Old 06-18-2014, 08:19 PM - Thread Starter
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The 3/8" roundover is a big roundover. I wouldn't want a bigger one on a speaker, but that's me. If your going to ever do veneer work the laminate is much easier to use
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post #118 of 514 Old 06-18-2014, 08:57 PM
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The plunge style will give me more options then
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post #119 of 514 Old 06-18-2014, 08:58 PM
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Just throwing this out there, routers are very dangerous. A table saw will leave your fingers laying there on the table for the doctor to see back on. Not pleasant. A router will turn your fingers into paste. Have respect for this "hand" tool.
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post #120 of 514 Old 06-18-2014, 09:04 PM
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