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post #211 of 416 Old 06-20-2014, 11:13 PM - Thread Starter
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Post one updated.
Thanks John.
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post #212 of 416 Old 06-20-2014, 11:34 PM
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No problem. :-)

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post #213 of 416 Old 06-20-2014, 11:54 PM
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A little pricey compared to the Daytona but that Eminence LAB15 is a VERY nice driver! I'm glad to see PSA now using them in their Power-X line of subs.

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post #214 of 416 Old 06-21-2014, 03:22 AM
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LTD02

Have you verified the port dimensions? By my calculation it is too short for a 23Hz tune. In that box i calculate ~27Hz with the port lenght shown in #1 . UNIBOX calculates 38" port length for a 23Hz tune.
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post #215 of 416 Old 06-21-2014, 06:10 AM
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you are right. good catch!


i never checked the final port dimensions. we were discussing various sizes and port dimensions.


1.5" x 19.50" (effective width) x 38" long tunes a 3.5 cubic footer to 23hz in winisd too.


now, there tends to be some overshoot with slot ports for some reason that varies, but i'd take off about 10% and go with a 34" long port.

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post #216 of 416 Old 06-21-2014, 08:39 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post
you are right. good catch!


i never checked the final port dimensions. we were discussing various sizes and port dimensions.


1.5" x 19.50" (effective width) x 38" long tunes a 3.5 cubic footer to 23hz in winisd too.


now, there tends to be some overshoot with slot ports for some reason that varies, but i'd take off about 10% and go with a 34" long port.
Um Houston we have a problem. I already built the micro-cube to your initial measurements.


I'll just fit a piece in next to it. Won't take long to fix. Thanks for catching that splott.
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post #217 of 416 Old 06-21-2014, 09:41 AM
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i'm not sure what happened. if i messed something up, my apologies.

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post #218 of 416 Old 06-21-2014, 10:01 AM - Thread Starter
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i'm not sure what happened. if i messed something up, my apologies.
No worries, easy fix
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post #219 of 416 Old 06-21-2014, 11:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post
Um Houston we have a problem. I already built the micro-cube to your initial measurements.


I'll just fit a piece in next to it. Won't take long to fix. Thanks for catching that splott.
To bad you could'nt do a Impedance measurement to know precisely the ( Actual Port Tune) ??
I've read that calculations are often at a higher Tune than wanted ??
Jeff Bagby even commented on this somewhere a P.E forum .
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post #220 of 416 Old 06-21-2014, 12:43 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by randyc1 View Post
To bad you could'nt do a Impedance measurement to know precisely the ( Actual Port Tune) ??
I've read that calculations are often at a higher Tune than wanted ??
Jeff Bagby even commented on this somewhere a P.E forum .
Ltd is usually pretty close. If anything it ends up lower.
I will split the difference and make it 36" total. That means port back rails will be 16.5" . have to add 11.5" to mine.
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post #221 of 416 Old 06-21-2014, 06:49 PM - Thread Starter
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Well I finished the back port repair. I ended up with 35" of total port length. Any higher and there is not much clearance at the top . if I went 38" the port would be sealed at the top.

I think I'm going to give duratex a try. It will look good with my veneer mains and with four sub's it saves me time and money.
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post #222 of 416 Old 06-21-2014, 11:36 PM - Thread Starter
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I have been reading up on subwoofer placement for 4 sub's. I will be trying out many locations. I have a living room that is 14 by 18 feet wide and it is totally open to a dining room 14 by 12. Total size 14 by 30 and dining room is open to the kitchen. Ceilings are a post and beam 11' at highest point.

Mlp is 9' back from TV on a double recliner. Only concerned with listening response for those two reclining seats. From reading I have done the 3 most likely scenarios are 1)all four up front spaced out evenly (can't stack them)
2)two up front under my mains , and one on either side of recliner for nearfield
3) two up front and two in rear lined up with front sub's about 3' away fr recliner on each side.

Any input .....
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post #223 of 416 Old 06-22-2014, 06:52 AM
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I like the idea of two up front placed for wherever they measure best(whether under your mains or corner loaded) as far as FR, and the other two flanking your seats near field for the improved tactile feel.

AVR:       Yamaha RXV-375

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post #224 of 416 Old 06-22-2014, 07:02 AM
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Just a question about this design. I am wondering why using tubular ports are not more common in DIY. Seems as though you could tune the cab a bit lower, and take up less internal volume with tubular ports since you are not taking up 3/4" of space for the entire length of the port. As you try to tune lower with the slot port, you take up more and more internal volume. I know the tubes would as well but it seems like you would not be "wasting" as much internal volume. I suppose on the giant cabs it does not matter since space is not a concern, but for a space saving design would it be beneficial? Seems there are many small ID cabs available that are tuned below 20 Hz, as low as 14.

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LCR:       Hsu HB1.2  HC1.2

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post #225 of 416 Old 06-22-2014, 07:14 AM
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It's only 3/4", if that matters then I'd be looking sealed, which will save you about 3" on the port alone. Plus the benefit of not having to be as big.

I'm not sure how these little ID subs get so small and low. Maybe they don't? Maybe they roll off like sealed but have a tune way down to minimize excursion. Maybe these use really expensive drivers (doubtful ). I can't help but think they're hype. Perhaps some of the expensive ID subs use expensive woofers.
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post #226 of 416 Old 06-22-2014, 08:03 AM
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"Just a question about this design. I am wondering why using tubular ports are not more common in DIY."


probably cost.


you might spend as much on ports as the entire rest of the cab.


http://www.parts-express.com/precisi...e-kit--268-354

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post #227 of 416 Old 06-22-2014, 08:13 AM
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Yes anything above 4" gets expensive and often they are not long enough for subs anyway. You can however use drain pipe or plastic sewer pipe. Much cheaper and as long as you want. Flares you can do yourself with the router.
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post #228 of 416 Old 06-22-2014, 10:51 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tuxedocivic View Post
It's only 3/4", if that matters then I'd be looking sealed, which will save you about 3" on the port alone. Plus the benefit of not having to be as big.

I'm not sure how these little ID subs get so small and low. Maybe they don't? Maybe they roll off like sealed but have a tune way down to minimize excursion. Maybe these use really expensive drivers (doubtful ). I can't help but think they're hype. Perhaps some of the expensive ID subs use expensive woofers.
Even my hsu vtf15 I had didn't seem to give me the results that I read in the reviews. I read several that said room shaking, explosive, 120dbs. Then the avs thread for it had almost all happy customers. For my room it was good,not great. Nothing I would invite someone over to show off.

I have had a dozen people over now since I went diy and even with one sub playing all say , wow. I think a lot has to do with power and DSP. The hsu has only 350 RMS and the inuke DSP is great.
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post #229 of 416 Old 06-22-2014, 11:01 AM
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I built this size sub a while back using the SWR1522 as you have modeled on the first page. It was 3.7 cubes with a 4" port tuned to 21hz. I ran it with a EP4000 and it took every last watt at 4 ohms and never bottomed out. Its about 21mm XMAX but the real limit is understated. It now lives in Casper Wyoming at a friend's house pounding on at 8 years of age.

Highly recommended project.

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post #230 of 416 Old 06-22-2014, 11:21 AM - Thread Starter
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Eight years is a lot of bass produced
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post #231 of 416 Old 06-24-2014, 05:32 AM
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Hows this coming along chaluga?
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post #232 of 416 Old 06-24-2014, 09:26 AM - Thread Starter
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I should get the Dayton driver today and I can fire it up. Pretty excited.. Its also my sons tenth birthday today. Crazy how fast time goes.
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post #233 of 416 Old 06-24-2014, 12:39 PM
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Will you be able to show us the comparison FR with the Martycube ?
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post #234 of 416 Old 06-24-2014, 04:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by randyc1 View Post
Will you be able to show us the comparison FR with the Martycube ?
I got the dreaded ups
UPS trailer arrival has caused a delay

sub not in today. grrrrrr

I will post the results with what the tuning is and how it compares to the cube. When I get the damn driver !
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post #235 of 416 Old 06-24-2014, 04:48 PM
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Curious to see how you compare these to your bigger subs. You keeping all four?

AVR:       Yamaha RXV-375

Display:  Panasonic  TH-50PC77U

LCR:       Hsu HB1.2  HC1.2

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post #236 of 416 Old 06-24-2014, 04:53 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Curious to see how you compare these to your bigger subs. You keeping all four?
All my other sub's are gone,sold. I take measurements with same test tones, at same volume, with amp settings the same. Measure at 15,20,25,30,35,40,45,50,55,60,65,70,75,80 hz. This time I will run 18-23hz and see where the dropoff is for tuning for micro. In all my testing Ltd's graphs have been very accurate.
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post #237 of 416 Old 06-24-2014, 05:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post
All my other sub's are gone,sold. I take measurements with same test tones, at same volume, with amp settings the same. Measure at 15,20,25,30,35,40,45,50,55,60,65,70,75,80 hz. This time I will run 18-23hz and see where the dropoff is for tuning for micro. In all my testing Ltd's graphs have been very accurate.
How is that done for Tuning Chalugadp ?, do you measure at the port ?
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post #238 of 416 Old 06-24-2014, 08:15 PM - Thread Starter
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How is that done for Tuning Chalugadp ?, do you measure at the port ?
There are more exact ways then I'm going to do but I will measure at 18hz to 25hz. It will probably look like this.
24hz. 75dbs
23 hz. 74dbs
22hz. 72dbs
21hz. 71dbs
20hz. 70dbs
19hz. 67dbs
18hz. 64dbs

With this drop on a fr sweep graph you would say tuning is at 20hz.

Last edited by chalugadp; 06-24-2014 at 08:52 PM.
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post #239 of 416 Old 06-24-2014, 08:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post
There are more exact ways then I'm going to do but I will measure at 18hz to 25hz. It will probably look like this.
24hz. 75dbs
23 hz. 74dbs
22hz. 72hz
21hz. 71hz
20hz. 70hz
19hz. 67hz
18hz. 64hz

With this drop on a fr sweep graph you would say tuning is at 20hz.

Huh

My Gear:

JTR Noesis 228HT (LCR)
Axiom Audio QS8 surrounds
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Pioneer VSX-21TXH
JVC RS45
Falcon Screens FVHD105
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post #240 of 416 Old 06-24-2014, 08:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbrown15 View Post
Huh
You set volume at -25 on your avr or preamp. You play test tones downloaded at 18to 25hz at same volume. You measure with SPL meter at listening position. The measurements will follow a similar pattern of downward rate as the graph in green.


Why do it this way instead of rew ?
By the time I drag out my laptop,mic,and hook it up I would be done my way. I'm not looking to pinpoint tuning to say 20.3hz, 20 is close enough for me. I use same system to flatten response. Measure all points and adjust accordingly. I have found for me its easier and faster and more successful then rew. Works for me but I know most love rew which is fine. Use what your comfortable with.

Last edited by chalugadp; 06-24-2014 at 08:49 PM.
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