Looking for design help on low profile UXL-18 build - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 36 Old 06-20-2014, 04:16 PM - Thread Starter
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Looking for design help on low profile UXL-18 build

I'm awaiting 4 UXL-18's which are expected in just a few more weeks. I already bought 2 inuke6000dsp's for them and now I need to build the boxes.

I'm hoping to build them as shallow as possible to fit 2 behind my screen and 2 in the back of the room, possibly in columns.

It looks like the shallowest build possible would be a sealed 12'' deep to fit the sub and 1'' for pole vent. So I came up with 12''d x 48''t x 20''w. I will attach the subs to the wall to prevent rocking/tipping. How should I go about bracing with a long shallow enclosure? Also do I need to double the front and back baffle or not?

Thanks

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post #2 of 36 Old 06-20-2014, 05:45 PM
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So is this going to be a sealed or ported design? I would still bracing the inside of the cabinet too.


Are you going to have a double front baffle or single front baffle?
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post #3 of 36 Old 06-20-2014, 07:36 PM
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If you can mess with your w/l ratio you could do sonotube. Large diameter 12" deep. No bracing required.

PS- congrats on your four subs. !!

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post #4 of 36 Old 06-20-2014, 08:24 PM - Thread Starter
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I'm planning on going sealed for the first time around. I had planned on copying your build Jbrown, but I got cold feet on the giant enclosures for right now. I may go ported some day, but I'd like to have a bit more flexibility in placement options especially being able to put 2 in the rear to even out the response. I'm hoping that they will sound good where I'm thinking of putting some columns. If they do I'll test out a larger column size to see if they look good disguised in there.

I'm not really sure how to brace since I can't really copy the diysound flatpack due to limited depth. I'm planning on a double front baffle so I guess it will end up being closer to 13'' total depth with driver mounted to first wall and second baffle for support and more flush mount look. I'm not sure if a double back is needed for structural support or if simple bracing is enough. I am certainly open to suggestions at this point. Especially diagrams of support as I am a total newb and don't want to blow up these boxes the first time out!

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post #5 of 36 Old 06-20-2014, 08:33 PM
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You can copy the bracing that forum member notnyt did, that's pretty much what I ended up doing on three of my subs.



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post #6 of 36 Old 06-20-2014, 11:59 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks Jbrown. That looks easy enough. I'm assuming MDF will be ok for that sort of bracing. And it looks like a single back wall so I'm just going to go with that for now.

Anyone know if there would be any issues if the driver is mounted off to one side of the enclosure vs centered?
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post #7 of 36 Old 06-21-2014, 12:06 AM
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Yeah MDF should be fine for the bracing, at least I hope it is because that's what I used on the second two subs that I built!...lol
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post #8 of 36 Old 06-21-2014, 01:16 AM
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"Anyone know if there would be any issues if the driver is mounted off to one side of the enclosure vs centered?"


the location of the driver won't impact performance directly. if it is located closer to the floor, it will amplify more room modes, which can be a good or bad thing.


reading up on room modes, standing waves, reflections, and cancellations would be useful whether going diy or not. they are one of the most misunderstood aspects of bass in my estimation.

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post #9 of 36 Old 06-21-2014, 07:15 AM
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Signing in here to get update in this thread. I was interested in a low profile uxl as well, but I didn't think that they would fit behind my seats so I went with eight 12"s that don't even compare to the uxl's.


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post #10 of 36 Old 06-21-2014, 02:37 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pain Infliction View Post
Signing in here to get update in this thread. I was interested in a low profile uxl as well, but I didn't think that they would fit behind my seats so I went with eight 12"s that don't even compare to the uxl's.
Yea, that was my first thought but I figure if I can squeeze the box down to 13'' including double front baffle I should be able to put it almost anywhere.

LTD: I am thinking of having the subs off set for just this reason. I'm not totally sure on where I'll place the subs but I have my first options based on trying to get as close as I can to the 1/4 points of the room. The only bad part is that the 1/4 points on the front wall are almost exactly where my L/R mains are so the subs either need to be short and shallow to keep the mains at ear level or I can raise the mains to get the subs 1/4 up the front wall as well with a very high mounted main. I'm leaning toward placing the mains on the subs at this time.
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post #11 of 36 Old 06-21-2014, 04:39 PM - Thread Starter
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Just a quick logistic question before I start cutting things. The inner baffle should be cut to 42.4cm and the outer to 46.2 right?

I got those measurements from mach5 website but wanted to check with you guys if I need to add a little extra to get it right.
http://www.istonline.ca/mach5_uxl_18.html

Also, will I need to buy a gasket or do the UXL-18's have a decent one already included?
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post #12 of 36 Old 06-21-2014, 05:14 PM
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regarding the size, yes. normally the "mounting diameter" would be called the "cutout".


Donny (chaluga) has the info for the uxl cutout in the first post here:
MartySub Flatpacks


numbers are just a hair different, which is within tolerance.






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post #13 of 36 Old 06-21-2014, 05:15 PM
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he also put the gasket tape in the post as a needed with a link to what he used.

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post #14 of 36 Old 06-21-2014, 05:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Is the bracing you and notnyt did better than what notnyt did on his sealed enclosures? Sorry I can't figure out how to copy them on my wifes mac. Here's the link:8x 18" LMS Ultra 5400s in 4 sealed enclosures

It looks easier, but I've never done it so I don't really know.
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post #15 of 36 Old 06-21-2014, 05:57 PM
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Uxl18 outer diameter is 18.5"
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post #16 of 36 Old 06-21-2014, 07:26 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks guys. I'm hoping to get down to home depot tomorrow and get some MDF and get to work. It looks like I should be able to get the whole thing on one sheet and then one extra sheet could give all 4 second front baffle pieces. Still not sure if I should go window bracing with cutouts or just use 1'' strips of mdf glued/brad nailed in. I guess it probably doesn't make much difference.
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post #17 of 36 Old 06-21-2014, 07:30 PM
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Window bracing is faster and stronger if you have a brad nailer. Takes two minutes to nail the window together and then glues in well. This method is only good if your box is pretty square. Otherwise use the other method.
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post #18 of 36 Old 06-22-2014, 11:38 PM - Thread Starter
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I build the back have of my first sub today and wanted to post a pic but I'm not sure what to due with the URL. Is there a link to a guide for this?
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post #19 of 36 Old 06-23-2014, 12:00 AM - Thread Starter
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Here are some pics attached. Not sure how else to get them on here.



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post #20 of 36 Old 06-23-2014, 12:04 AM - Thread Starter
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How does that bracing look? The 2 long boards running down the entire length of the box aren't glued in yet. I realized after the fact that they are probably too high to go more toward the center of the box as they will likely hit the driver. So I can either put them in more off to the side like they are currently or just wait to get the driver and see where they fit without issues. Or… I could just put them in and cut the driver whole on the other side so the supports will then be toward the back of the sub…

I'm not sure how people figure this stuff out before having the drivers? Any suggestions?
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post #21 of 36 Old 06-23-2014, 12:05 AM
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You need to put " [img] [/img]" before and after the copied URL for the picture, otherwise they don't show up.
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post #22 of 36 Old 06-23-2014, 12:08 AM - Thread Starter
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Jbrown…. you are my hero…

Seriously though, you have been super helpful in my journey. Thanks!
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post #23 of 36 Old 06-23-2014, 12:25 AM
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Right in the middle of the box (lengthwise)I would put a solid brace going across. Cut a little hole in it like these

Just one hole in middle about half the size of brace. This will shore up the box and then your long pieces are shorter. I think it will be easier to install as.well.
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post #24 of 36 Old 06-23-2014, 05:40 AM
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Is the driver going in the middle of this box?


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post #25 of 36 Old 06-23-2014, 11:09 AM
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Is the driver going in the middle of this box?
I thought two drivers on sides.
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post #26 of 36 Old 06-23-2014, 01:49 PM - Thread Starter
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Just one driver in the center. The box is 49x21x12.5''
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post #27 of 36 Old 06-24-2014, 03:58 PM - Thread Starter
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So since its only one driver right in the center should I still be looking to add more bracing somewhere? Also should I just wait until I have the driver to put in the long vertical supports? I would hate to find out they hit the driver and have to rip them out. Bug I also want to make sure it's adequately braced. This is the prototype, so I'm learning a lot. I need to build 3 more once I have the design finalized.

Thanks for all the comments/advice so far.
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post #28 of 36 Old 06-28-2014, 09:37 AM - Thread Starter
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Anyone have any idea's on this bracing? Is this good or should I add more somewhere. The driver is a UXL-18 and it will be in the center of the cabinet which is 49x21x12''

Pics of the bracing are on post #19 .

Hoping to get some good feedback so I can start my other 3 cabinets before the drivers get here.

Thanks
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post #29 of 36 Old 06-28-2014, 11:11 AM
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I think you should be okay.
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post #30 of 36 Old 06-28-2014, 02:30 PM
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One of the nice things about bracing is you can always add more. My first build with ultralight MDF was light on bracing. Took driver out and added some more. I know you want it perfect first time.
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