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post #31 of 84 Old 06-27-2014, 11:13 AM
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Nice bracing.....👍
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post #32 of 84 Old 06-27-2014, 11:54 AM - Thread Starter
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Bracing trivia for LMS Ultra 5400

Quote:
Originally Posted by SeekingNirvana View Post
Nice bracing.....👍
Thank you, picked it up after talking to a guy with the same screen name as you, who also happens to run a thread with dual LMS build. Here you can see his bracing. Thank you for the advice you sent me through PM. Got to agree this seems much stronger and battles any flexing far better.

Looking at your build, I'm actually thinking that I might just go with single layer and dual back + triple front baffle. It seems like people think your builds are good enough, so why add the extra weight and cost by using double walls too...

As for the bottom part of the bracing it's built such that porting the enclosure will be possible if I want to later.



The dimensions of the double cross bracing is not exactly right as of now, but will be, here's how it looks.



Will have to make the angle a little steeper give more room at the bottom. This gives a very good clearing towards the pole vent anyways, it's not like it will sit right in front of the square made up by the cross.

Have built a spreadsheet which takes a few variables and calculates most of the things, even placement of some holes, the bracing's volume and so on, that was the hardest part, haha.


DAC/Preamp: miniDSP 4x10 HD and Mytek 192 Stereo DSD DAC
Speakers: JBL 4343B, JBL 4430 and JBL 120Ti
Amplifiers: Emotiva XPR-1, Denon POA 1500, QSC GX5 and Sanway's LabGruppen FP14000 clone
Sub: DIY LMS Ultra 5400
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post #33 of 84 Old 06-27-2014, 10:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GizzeGutten View Post
Thank you, picked it up after talking to a guy with the same screen name as you, who also happens to run a thread with dual LMS build. Here you can see his bracing. Thank you for the advice you sent me through PM. Got to agree this seems much stronger and battles any flexing far better.

Looking at your build, I'm actually thinking that I might just go with single layer and dual back + triple front baffle. It seems like people think your builds are good enough, so why add the extra weight and cost by using double walls too...

As for the bottom part of the bracing it's built such that porting the enclosure will be possible if I want to later.



The dimensions of the double cross bracing is not exactly right as of now, but will be, here's how it looks.



Will have to make the angle a little steeper give more room at the bottom. This gives a very good clearing towards the pole vent anyways, it's not like it will sit right in front of the square made up by the cross.

Have built a spreadsheet which takes a few variables and calculates most of the things, even placement of some holes, the bracing's volume and so on, that was the hardest part, haha.

First off.....when I posted the "nice bracing" I gave you a thumbs up, but it was on my Iphone, so it showed up on here as a Square. It should have been a cool looking thumb, but for what ever reason this new format shows it as a square.........LAME!

I was planing on doing a double layer all around too, but after reading a bunch on bracing I found out that a properly braced cabinet will do just fine with one layer. My thought on doing 2 layers all around is that it would make the cabinet very inert by it being very heavy. Ive seen you tube videos of the 5400 rocking a sealed cab, and having it weigh a lot would help it stay stay put. I still went with a double rear baffle, and a double front baffle, even though many say it is not needed. Some might consider my front baffle a triple layer, but i'm only mounting the driver into 2, the third layer is just to recess it, although im sure it ads some benefit. Anyway im kinda glad I went with one layer......now that I have them built, they are some heavy M-F-ers. I would say at least 80lbs, then add another 80lbs for the driver....were talking a 160lb sub

If you decide to go ported, are you going to use flared tube ports? Once its all glued up you wont be able to add a slot port....unless im missing something.

Pretty impressive spread sheet......have you tried this calculator http://www.hometheatershack.com/foru...me-calculator/ its what I used. For bracing I just needed to break them down and calc them. For example the bracing that you are using, (same as me) I lopped the legs off and figured out what one leg would calc out to, by using the rectangle calculator, then multiplied it by 8. Then the bigger piece with the hole cut out, I did the same thing only using the calculator for round cutouts, and multiplied it by 4. Added everything up and wham! had my bracing displacement.

My dual sealed LMS 5400 Ultra build

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post #34 of 84 Old 06-28-2014, 08:52 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeekingNirvana View Post
I was planing on doing a double layer all around too, but after reading a bunch on bracing I found out that a properly braced cabinet will do just fine with one layer. My thought on doing 2 layers all around is that it would make the cabinet very inert by it being very heavy. Ive seen you tube videos of the 5400 rocking a sealed cab, and having it weigh a lot would help it stay stay put. I still went with a double rear baffle, and a double front baffle, even though many say it is not needed. Some might consider my front baffle a triple layer, but i'm only mounting the driver into 2, the third layer is just to recess it, although im sure it ads some benefit. Anyway im kinda glad I went with one layer......now that I have them built, they are some heavy M-F-ers. I would say at least 80lbs, then add another 80lbs for the driver....were talking a 160lb sub
Yes, I actually contemplated making a compartment in the bottom where I'd take find sand which people use in bird cages and dry it in the oven then fill the compartment up to make it heavy & inert. The baffle with recess will add both weight and rigidity to the enclosure, so it's probably better than two with the driver mounted non recessed. I'm not going to recess it, because it will be an absolute pain to get out. It was hard enough to lift it out of my current enclosure where it is not recessed.

On that note, before putting it in place I removed the gasket and put the basket in the hole to make markings for the holes. Then I aligned the holes in the gasket with those on the frame by using cable ties all around. To put it into place I just lifted the whole thing with diagonally opposed cable ties and aligned it with the drilled holes. This ensured that the logo was aligned horizontally, and you don't need to have any sharp objects in close proximity to the surround.

Yes, the weight really adds up fast. The test enclosure is above 100 kg (~220 lbs); that's driver, double 22mm (.87") walls and bracing. It doesn't flex, but the natural resonance of the material is low, so it vibrates quite a bit (but does not move). I'm hoping that MDF's higher density will move the resonant frequency out of the operating range (which is above 100 Hz).

Quote:
Originally Posted by SeekingNirvana View Post
If you decide to go ported, are you going to use flared tube ports? Once its all glued up you wont be able to add a slot port....unless im missing something.
Got me. If I decide to go ported I have no idea what I'll do, lol! Probably scratch my head and end up building new enclosures. To be honest I doubt I'll go ported. Mostly because of group delay and transient response.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SeekingNirvana View Post
Pretty impressive spread sheet......have you tried this calculator http://www.hometheatershack.com/foru...me-calculator/ its what I used. For bracing I just needed to break them down and calc them. For example the bracing that you are using, (same as me) I lopped the legs off and figured out what one leg would calc out to, by using the rectangle calculator, then multiplied it by 8. Then the bigger piece with the hole cut out, I did the same thing only using the calculator for round cutouts, and multiplied it by 4. Added everything up and wham! had my bracing displacement.
I've got a thing for using the golden ratio (~1.618) or some variation thereof, like (1+0.618/2), so I initially made the spreadsheet only to get the dimensions, then it started growing on its own, haha. Tried making it draw it visually too, but that's just far to complicated, involving visual basic etc. The sheet is dynamic, so I can change some variables (in blue) and it will calculate everything for me and still keep the desired ratios. However, it's much easier to just draw things in Sketchup and use a plugin to calculate the volume of objects etc. Then it's just add and subtract to find the exact working volume. Working on that now, and will soon post some pictures when I've made the enclosure. So my answer is no, I've not used those tools. I like to build things from the ground up and make a million mistakes, and spreadsheets are an excellent way to do that, haha!

DAC/Preamp: miniDSP 4x10 HD and Mytek 192 Stereo DSD DAC
Speakers: JBL 4343B, JBL 4430 and JBL 120Ti
Amplifiers: Emotiva XPR-1, Denon POA 1500, QSC GX5 and Sanway's LabGruppen FP14000 clone
Sub: DIY LMS Ultra 5400
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post #35 of 84 Old 06-28-2014, 11:22 AM - Thread Starter
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Current revisionSpecifications

  • MDF 3/4"
  • Dual front and rear baffle
  • 29" x 23.6" x 20.2" / 73.7 x 60 x 51.2 cm (HxWxD)
  • Estimated weight including driver = 192.5 LBS / 87 Kg
  • Net internal working volume = 5.42 ft3 / 154 L
  • Qtc=.537, Fsc = 33.37 Hz









WinISD estimations


Max SPL 111.5dB for one sub and no room gain



Adding 2nd order HPF @ 10 Hz, 4th order LPF @ 100 Hz and Linkwitz Transform where fp = 20 Hz, Qp=.707

Max linear excursion



Amplifier apparent load power VA


Very efficient!!

Response – whoop, whoop!!

DAC/Preamp: miniDSP 4x10 HD and Mytek 192 Stereo DSD DAC
Speakers: JBL 4343B, JBL 4430 and JBL 120Ti
Amplifiers: Emotiva XPR-1, Denon POA 1500, QSC GX5 and Sanway's LabGruppen FP14000 clone
Sub: DIY LMS Ultra 5400
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post #36 of 84 Old 06-28-2014, 11:29 AM - Thread Starter
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Tried that War of the Worlds tripod emergence scene with LMS yesterday, sure had a SH*T LOAD OF BASS, but was very cautious when the leg slammed down in front of the car. Had to ask myself how loud I can play that scene without bottoming the driver with a 2nd order 10 Hz HPF in place, HAHA. I don't think I was even close to reference levels, what ever that is.

DAC/Preamp: miniDSP 4x10 HD and Mytek 192 Stereo DSD DAC
Speakers: JBL 4343B, JBL 4430 and JBL 120Ti
Amplifiers: Emotiva XPR-1, Denon POA 1500, QSC GX5 and Sanway's LabGruppen FP14000 clone
Sub: DIY LMS Ultra 5400
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post #37 of 84 Old 06-28-2014, 11:50 AM - Thread Starter
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If someone see a major flaw with this enclosure design, please say so, if not, these will be built starting first come Monday or Tuesday.

I love how this forum works, I can speak to myself all day long!!

DAC/Preamp: miniDSP 4x10 HD and Mytek 192 Stereo DSD DAC
Speakers: JBL 4343B, JBL 4430 and JBL 120Ti
Amplifiers: Emotiva XPR-1, Denon POA 1500, QSC GX5 and Sanway's LabGruppen FP14000 clone
Sub: DIY LMS Ultra 5400
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post #38 of 84 Old 06-30-2014, 04:09 PM - Thread Starter
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BassThatHz

If I'm not mistaken, you've used a laser based thermometer to measure the temperature of the LMS-U cone under operation. What is the expected outlay for something with reliable results, and at what temperatures do you think it's time to 'cool down'? Hehe

DAC/Preamp: miniDSP 4x10 HD and Mytek 192 Stereo DSD DAC
Speakers: JBL 4343B, JBL 4430 and JBL 120Ti
Amplifiers: Emotiva XPR-1, Denon POA 1500, QSC GX5 and Sanway's LabGruppen FP14000 clone
Sub: DIY LMS Ultra 5400
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post #39 of 84 Old 07-01-2014, 05:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GizzeGutten View Post
Yes, it's weird given the definition of VA and the result following from Ohm's Law.

I restarted WinISD to calculate new values for a sealed enclosure w/o any filters, thinking that I might have mistakenly read the second data set off one of the prior estimations with filters, or that there were some bug in the app as I get error messages from the application from time to time.

This time the calculations were far closer together.



Decimal separator in Europe is "," not "." . Furthermore, I can not get integer values for frequencies in WinISD when I move the mouse pointer to select different frequencies.

These are probably just variations due to rounding errors in the algorithm winISD runs off of. It seems plausible that they don't use a lot of decimals to make the app less straining on the CPU.
I've not delved into this level of detail, but I'd be curious if the phase response of the system accounted for the slight difference in the voltage you're calculating. This would be due to the power factor:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_factor

In all honesty, some of this is a bit academic because at the end of the day you're going to use a volume knob to adjust the level - and if a musical signal comes through that exceeds the limits of the system, then you're going to hear the distortion and naturally turn it down. The important thing is to turn the system up slowly at the beginning until you're comfortable with where the true limits of the system are. You don't want to just start out blasting as loud as you can because different music causes the system to behave differently - and maybe a later transient will cause damage.

These calculations should be used to determine if your driver and amplifier is in the right ballpark of power rating. I generally go a bit higher on the amplifier because I prefer the sound of the driver distorting over the amp, and I know I'm not going to get crazy with the volume. An unclipping amplifier will also have better damping over the driver, which means better control over the driver when it does get over-driven.
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post #40 of 84 Old 07-01-2014, 11:54 PM
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I wouldn't go more than a few degrees above room-temp. If you feel any heat, stop.


If you don't exceed this much excursion then you will be ok (assuming the thermals are ok too). When the surround dipples like this then you know you are within 5-10mm of bottoming it out, this is about 88% xmech. Beyond this point the distortion is gonna climb fast (+10% THD).




More than 80 to 105vRMS gets risky for a sealed LMS in a decent sized box.
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post #41 of 84 Old 07-02-2014, 12:46 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MBentz View Post
I've not delved into this level of detail, but I'd be curious if the phase response of the system accounted for the slight difference in the voltage you're calculating. This would be due to the power factor:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_factor

In all honesty, some of this is a bit academic because at the end of the day you're going to use a volume knob to adjust the level - and if a musical signal comes through that exceeds the limits of the system, then you're going to hear the distortion and naturally turn it down. The important thing is to turn the system up slowly at the beginning until you're comfortable with where the true limits of the system are. You don't want to just start out blasting as loud as you can because different music causes the system to behave differently - and maybe a later transient will cause damage.

These calculations should be used to determine if your driver and amplifier is in the right ballpark of power rating. I generally go a bit higher on the amplifier because I prefer the sound of the driver distorting over the amp, and I know I'm not going to get crazy with the volume. An unclipping amplifier will also have better damping over the driver, which means better control over the driver when it does get over-driven.
Thank you

LOL, yes, I agree that this became a little to academic, and laughed out loud when I read «at the end of the day you're going to use a volume knob to adjust the level» However, I didn't understand jack sh*t before this project, but now I understand what amplifier gain is, how the voltage limiter works, how to optimize the gain structure, how EQ'ing affects max SPL over the whole passband, what Qtc and Fsc is, the difference between voltage peak and rms, how to think about voltage, impedance and current and are just more competent in reading measurements in general. Also I feel comfortable in my WinISD estimations and how to do them, knowing that they're just estimations and are only a guide and not absolute. +++ a lot more! I'll try to calm down the academic undertones from now on.

I do appreciate practical advice and that's what I'm after, but would also like to know how stuff works, as that makes me feel confident.

Thank you for the advice on having the sub distort before the amplifier, so I actually did as you said. In combination with what I tell BassThatHz below it gave goosebumps and maybe even a few structural cracks!!


Quote:
Originally Posted by BassThatHz View Post
I wouldn't go more than a few degrees above room-temp. If you feel any heat, stop.

If you don't exceed this much excursion then you will be ok (assuming the thermals are ok too). When the surround dipples like this then you know you are within 5-10mm of bottoming it out, this is about 88% xmech. Beyond this point the distortion is gonna climb fast (+10% THD).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mlIWHMwEetk

More than 80 to 105vRMS gets risky for a sealed LMS in a decent sized box.
Hello!

I've actually watched all your youtube videos with great interest these last few days, some of them several times. The ones on the Ultra is very helpful because I see how far you push them there, and I've been looking for dimples like a teenager for pimples all night long playing 'the joy of minimal' which you were playing in a video. I've never been confident enough to push the sub that hard before, but now I am thanks to you and your videos

The dead spider video was hilarious, lol.

Also bought an IR thermometer from dealextreme which I hope is reliable. Been using my hands up until now, but don't want my fingerprints all over the cone.

The driver should arrive at the port here in Norway today, so maybe I'll have it before the weekend!! Can't wait to see what two Ultras can do with 'the joy of minimal', haha. These are very exciting times, and I lust for more!

Why did you go with four? I think your room is a little bigger. You have a lot of other subs too, but are you able to crank the Ultras as loud as you want to, or do you still want more? I want to be able to crank it up until I feel it's enough w/o fear of destroying the subs. I might have to start saving for two more.

EDIT: Reading your thread about building quads now.

DAC/Preamp: miniDSP 4x10 HD and Mytek 192 Stereo DSD DAC
Speakers: JBL 4343B, JBL 4430 and JBL 120Ti
Amplifiers: Emotiva XPR-1, Denon POA 1500, QSC GX5 and Sanway's LabGruppen FP14000 clone
Sub: DIY LMS Ultra 5400

Last edited by GizzeGutten; 07-02-2014 at 01:11 AM.
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post #42 of 84 Old 07-02-2014, 01:02 AM - Thread Starter
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Another thing I'm wondering about is what you guys do to eliminate rattling door handles, hehe.

DAC/Preamp: miniDSP 4x10 HD and Mytek 192 Stereo DSD DAC
Speakers: JBL 4343B, JBL 4430 and JBL 120Ti
Amplifiers: Emotiva XPR-1, Denon POA 1500, QSC GX5 and Sanway's LabGruppen FP14000 clone
Sub: DIY LMS Ultra 5400
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post #43 of 84 Old 07-09-2014, 03:35 PM - Thread Starter
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Let the games begin!



A little burnt, but nothing a little sanding wont fix.

New update tomorrow. Yiiiha!
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DAC/Preamp: miniDSP 4x10 HD and Mytek 192 Stereo DSD DAC
Speakers: JBL 4343B, JBL 4430 and JBL 120Ti
Amplifiers: Emotiva XPR-1, Denon POA 1500, QSC GX5 and Sanway's LabGruppen FP14000 clone
Sub: DIY LMS Ultra 5400
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post #44 of 84 Old 07-09-2014, 08:50 PM
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I went with quads because I wanted it louder.
I then added even more subs because I wanted it even louder.
Having now reached an SI-18 equivalence of about ~22 at this moment... I am now looking at adding even more subs because I want it even louder than that!
Nuttier than nut-cake I tells ya!

It's just like an adrenaline junkie looking for his next high. (How low can I open the parachute this time? Lets try 10ft!!! LOL)

note: Most (sane) people stop at around quad UXL/LMS 18's or 8 SI-18's as that is enough for most rooms, listening habits, and WAF/cops.
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post #45 of 84 Old 07-10-2014, 07:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BassThatHz View Post
I went with quads because I wanted it louder.
I then added even more subs because I wanted it even louder.
Having now reached an SI-18 equivalence of about ~22 at this moment... I am now looking at adding even more subs because I want it even louder than that!
Nuttier than nut-cake I tells ya!

It's just like an adrenaline junkie looking for his next high. (How low can I open the parachute this time? Lets try 10ft!!! LOL)

note: Most (sane) people stop at around quad UXL/LMS 18's or 8 SI-18's as that is enough for most rooms, listening habits, and WAF/cops.
I'd argue most sane people stop at one or two 250 watt 12" subs :P


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post #46 of 84 Old 07-10-2014, 08:58 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BassThatHz View Post
I went with quads because I wanted it louder.
I then added even more subs because I wanted it even louder.
Having now reached an SI-18 equivalence of about ~22 at this moment... I am now looking at adding even more subs because I want it even louder than that!
Nuttier than nut-cake I tells ya!

It's just like an adrenaline junkie looking for his next high. (How low can I open the parachute this time? Lets try 10ft!!! LOL)

note: Most (sane) people stop at around quad UXL/LMS 18's or 8 SI-18's as that is enough for most rooms, listening habits, and WAF/cops.
Hahaha, paraphrasing whomever said it, might even have been you; «I think you have a bass problem»

Totally understand how these things can take hold and develop. Yes, it's crazy, but it's beautifully crazy. Taking things to the extreme like this is nothing short of awesome, and I wish more men were able to take their passions to the extreme. It gives great pleasure!

Since my current references are pretty narrow, I think what I'm doing is extreme, but in comparison to you guys, I'm just a little bird, haha.

Looking forward to hearing two, but I've built in the ability to do four in the current room. I hear those guys in the quad club shouting about how great the upgrade from one to two was, but that the big leap was from two to four, haha.

DAC/Preamp: miniDSP 4x10 HD and Mytek 192 Stereo DSD DAC
Speakers: JBL 4343B, JBL 4430 and JBL 120Ti
Amplifiers: Emotiva XPR-1, Denon POA 1500, QSC GX5 and Sanway's LabGruppen FP14000 clone
Sub: DIY LMS Ultra 5400
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post #47 of 84 Old 07-11-2014, 05:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Been working hard on the boxes these last few days. This is enclosure number two. I've cut all the internal bracing which will go in tomorrow. Then there will be sanding etc, adding double baffles, fixing any ugly edges and lastly more sanding, primer and paint.

Shouldn't be many days now!





One thing I'm wondering about you guys who run a lot of subs at high SPL. Do you guys have elevated bass in comparison to the highs and mids? I can not imagine having a linear frequency response at 125-130 dB, those highs must be piercingly bright sounding, no?

DAC/Preamp: miniDSP 4x10 HD and Mytek 192 Stereo DSD DAC
Speakers: JBL 4343B, JBL 4430 and JBL 120Ti
Amplifiers: Emotiva XPR-1, Denon POA 1500, QSC GX5 and Sanway's LabGruppen FP14000 clone
Sub: DIY LMS Ultra 5400
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post #48 of 84 Old 07-11-2014, 06:30 PM
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Yes it's common to run 10 to 20db hot and then room gain, and with a few db's left for excursion/thermal headroom.

In my system 10khz vs 10hz is a 30db difference:
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post #49 of 84 Old 07-11-2014, 11:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks, was a bit concerned about you guys' hearing, haha. Also asking because I'm already finding myself using parametric EQ to lower the upper highs and lower treble when I play loud with one subwoofer.

Also, I think that a frp curve with the same characteristics as yours sound better because human hearing is less sensitive to bass than mids and lower highs (where human voices mostly resides), so with that kind of frp my personal opinion is that it the sound is "richer" and "fuller".

I see that dip at 4kHz. That frequency can often be very harsh to my ears. Have you lowered it to keep sibilance out of your system?

My speakers goes to 22kHz (will post measurements later, don't have access now). I don't know exactly where my hearing cuts, but last time I checked it was at 20 kHz, but that's a few years ago, so maybe 18-19kHz now. Don't you miss a little more info in the upper octaves there though? I think it can create a sense of air around high hats etc when they slowly decay.

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Sub: DIY LMS Ultra 5400
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post #50 of 84 Old 07-12-2014, 02:14 PM - Thread Starter
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Viva La Clamps! :)

So, this is just about where I'm at with both enclosures now









Making enclosures is sure a lot of work, but enjoying to see things progress and take shape.

Hopefully, I'll be able to do the driver cutout, glue everything up, sand and do primer on the enclosures tomorrow. Looking at various damping materials now. What do you guys recommend? Are there any rule of thumb as to how much damping one should use based on internal volume, wall area or something like that?

Also thinking about how to best mount the T-nuts to avoid the risk of it coming loose making the screw a pain to get out. How do you guys do it? Don't want to wait for hurricane nuts or anything else. I've got a bunch of T-nuts lying around which will be used.

DAC/Preamp: miniDSP 4x10 HD and Mytek 192 Stereo DSD DAC
Speakers: JBL 4343B, JBL 4430 and JBL 120Ti
Amplifiers: Emotiva XPR-1, Denon POA 1500, QSC GX5 and Sanway's LabGruppen FP14000 clone
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post #51 of 84 Old 07-12-2014, 05:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GizzeGutten View Post
So, this is just about where I'm at with both enclosures now









Making enclosures is sure a lot of work, but enjoying to see things progress and take shape.

Hopefully, I'll be able to do the driver cutout, glue everything up, sand and do primer on the enclosures tomorrow. Looking at various damping materials now. What do you guys recommend? Are there any rule of thumb as to how much damping one should use based on internal volume, wall area or something like that?

Also thinking about how to best mount the T-nuts to avoid the risk of it coming loose making the screw a pain to get out. How do you guys do it? Don't want to wait for hurricane nuts or anything else. I've got a bunch of T-nuts lying around which will be used.
Looking good......

For the damping I've seen lots use poly fill. The stuff inside cheap pillows, in fact just buy some cheap plows and pull the fill out. I've heard 1lb per cubic foot. That's what I'm planning to do in my build. I know there are more exotic materials, but I've seen some of the most experienced people on this forum use the poly fill.

Instead of using T-nuts may I suggest just glueing a block of 3/4" material....like a scrap of ply, where the screw is going to go. This way you just get a longer screw, and you have something solid to screw into, and you don't have to worry about losing a T-nut in the box.
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post #52 of 84 Old 07-13-2014, 09:15 AM
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Quote:
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I see that dip at 4kHz. That frequency can often be very harsh to my ears. Have you lowered it to keep sibilance out of your system?
No that is probably the room or a placement issue; or I may have accidentally stepped on the EQ, I noticed it too. I'll have to double check what the cause is when I get the chance.

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post #53 of 84 Old 07-13-2014, 03:37 PM - Thread Starter
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Looking good......

For the damping I've seen lots use poly fill. The stuff inside cheap pillows, in fact just buy some cheap plows and pull the fill out. I've heard 1lb per cubic foot. That's what I'm planning to do in my build. I know there are more exotic materials, but I've seen some of the most experienced people on this forum use the poly fill.

Instead of using T-nuts may I suggest just glueing a block of 3/4" material....like a scrap of ply, where the screw is going to go. This way you just get a longer screw, and you have something solid to screw into, and you don't have to worry about losing a T-nut in the box.
I might end up taking the enclosures out and doing free air measurements and trying different amounts of damping material, it'll probably be poly fill if I can get my hands on it here. Most of the cheap pillows are probably from the same Chinese factories, so they're probably available here.

That's great advice, thanks! I might and up doing that, but I also like to screw them into something which is threaded like T-nuts as it makes things easier if one wants to experiment with the amount of damping etc.

DAC/Preamp: miniDSP 4x10 HD and Mytek 192 Stereo DSD DAC
Speakers: JBL 4343B, JBL 4430 and JBL 120Ti
Amplifiers: Emotiva XPR-1, Denon POA 1500, QSC GX5 and Sanway's LabGruppen FP14000 clone
Sub: DIY LMS Ultra 5400
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post #54 of 84 Old 07-14-2014, 06:24 AM
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i just throw the cheapest pillows I can find in subs.


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post #55 of 84 Old 07-14-2014, 08:37 AM
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Originally Posted by GizzeGutten View Post
I might end up taking the enclosures out and doing free air measurements and trying different amounts of damping material, it'll probably be poly fill if I can get my hands on it here. Most of the cheap pillows are probably from the same Chinese factories, so they're probably available here.

That's great advice, thanks! I might and up doing that, but I also like to screw them into something which is threaded like T-nuts as it makes things easier if one wants to experiment with the amount of damping etc.
You can still use the blocks.....glue the 3/4" blocks of ply where you plan to drill for the T-nuts, and mount the T-nuts into the ply. They are going to grab much better into real wood, instead of MDF. Just get longer machine screws, and if you want you can put a dab of PL (or equivalent) to the T-nut when you install it.

So I would.....
1) Glue 3/4" ply or some 3/4" wood blocks where the screws will go, and let it dry.
2) Drill appropriate sized hole for screw, all the way through MDF and wood block.
3) Put a dab of PL adhesive on bottom of T-nut, and tighten into place.
4) Wipe any excess PL that May have spouged out, then back out screws and let PL set up.

The chances of the T-nut backing out with PL, and mounted into wood are going to be far less, then if you just installed them into MDF.
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post #56 of 84 Old 07-14-2014, 09:39 PM - Thread Starter
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Great idea! I sucked on a tnut with screw inside (lol) and I was able to suck and blow ( lol again) through it. Hopefully, the gasket will make it tight so no air will cum through.

DAC/Preamp: miniDSP 4x10 HD and Mytek 192 Stereo DSD DAC
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Amplifiers: Emotiva XPR-1, Denon POA 1500, QSC GX5 and Sanway's LabGruppen FP14000 clone
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post #57 of 84 Old 07-19-2014, 06:11 PM - Thread Starter
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Bing



Bang



Bom!




DAC/Preamp: miniDSP 4x10 HD and Mytek 192 Stereo DSD DAC
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post #58 of 84 Old 07-19-2014, 06:22 PM
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Boom Boom!

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post #59 of 84 Old 07-21-2014, 06:21 AM - Thread Starter
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^ LOL, yes, soon!
---------





Soooooon!!!



Will use a V-shaped router bit to route the seams, then use car chassis filler and sand to give them a nice finish later. I'm thinking matte black front baffle and screaming yellow on the rest or opposite. I think it might look very good!

This was the inspiration, hot, hot, hot!!


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post #60 of 84 Old 07-24-2014, 05:23 AM - Thread Starter
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Boom boom!!

Extremely satisfied!!!

DAC/Preamp: miniDSP 4x10 HD and Mytek 192 Stereo DSD DAC
Speakers: JBL 4343B, JBL 4430 and JBL 120Ti
Amplifiers: Emotiva XPR-1, Denon POA 1500, QSC GX5 and Sanway's LabGruppen FP14000 clone
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