Knock-down enclosures for sealed, down-firing UXL-18 subs. - Page 3 - AVS Forum
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post #61 of 162 Old 07-25-2014, 09:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by chalugadp
For you with all that power and sealed I would recommend glueing plywood blocks behind where you are going to screw in. 8 blocks, and you won't have any issues.

Otherwise don't predrill, go slow with drill, and use #8 by 1.25" screws. Make sure you put screws in like bolts on a tire. Opposites.
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Originally Posted by eljay
Not sure I want to start glueing stuff into the enclosures (and, anyway, I don't have any clamps), so I'll just go easy with the drill and not pre-drill. Thanks.
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Don't need clamps. With a 1" by 1" block you can just use duct tape and glue. Try it without , but if screws slip then the blocks help.
OK, I'll give it a try. What size drill bit should I use to pre-drill for those screw (a bunch of which you included with the cabinets)?
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post #62 of 162 Old 07-25-2014, 09:07 PM - Thread Starter
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You have me wishing I had the word working skills for this.... Looks awesome man!
Thanks. I have no wood-working skills at all, so I haven't done anything that you couldn't also do.
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post #63 of 162 Old 07-25-2014, 09:10 PM
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OK, I'll give it a try. What size drill bit should I use to pre-drill for those screw (a bunch of which you included with the cabinets)?
With #10 screws a 3/32" is good. Actually you really don't need to predrill cuz the plywood will grab and hold. Reason I think you should have blocks is you have downfiring driver. Weight of driver on screws as well. That uxl18 is heavy.
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post #64 of 162 Old 07-25-2014, 09:22 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by chalugadp
... Actually you really don't need to predrill cuz the plywood will grab and hold.
The glue is that strong? Huh. I have an image in my head of the screws pushing through the MDF and just popping the blocks right off.

OK, so, 1" plywood blocks, glued (I recently picked up some Lepage's carpenter's glue) and duct-taped (presumably just until the glue dries) into place. Got it. Thanks!
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post #65 of 162 Old 07-25-2014, 09:24 PM
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Originally Posted by eljaycanuck View Post
The glue is that strong? Huh. I have an image in my head of the screws pushing through the MDF and just popping the blocks right off.
Gorilla glue or titebond 2. Glue is stronger then the wood. Make sure glue is dry before screwing.
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post #66 of 162 Old 07-25-2014, 10:05 PM
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You do man. cmon join the party. Either by yourself, with Erich's Stonehenge or me.
Oh trust me, I am really tempted. At my next upgrade cycle (seemingly every two years) I will definitely consider this path. I think I would end up doing it the same way as Eljay - getting the enclosures made by an expert. Just need someone in the US rather than Canada.

Keep up the good work Eljay, looks awesome! Can't wait to see the finished product!
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post #67 of 162 Old 07-26-2014, 07:25 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks FMcBP. I'll post some pics tomorrow when the cabs are finished and back in my basement. I'll put them next to the SS-18.1 cabs for comparison.

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post #68 of 162 Old 07-26-2014, 07:34 AM - Thread Starter
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According to this, the Lepage glue should suit my purpose, so I'll use that since I already have some. I'll do two blocks at a time because I happen to have two vice-grips that I can use as clamps.

And then I'll pre-drill to avoid the (with my luck) freak scenario of me installing the driver only to have the last block pop off as I'm putting in the screw. F*%#!!!

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post #69 of 162 Old 07-26-2014, 04:26 PM - Thread Starter
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I'll have one more go at the tops of the cabinets before the evening is out and then - for better or worse - I'm done. Pics here.
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post #70 of 162 Old 07-26-2014, 05:17 PM
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Originally Posted by eljaycanuck View Post
I'll have one more go at the tops of the cabinets before the evening is out and then - for better or worse - I'm done. Pics here.
Took me 4 coats to get it smooth. Still have some spots not perfect but it will do.

Oh check the classifieds if your in need of fusion 8 mtm center channel.


I'm getting 1099
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post #71 of 162 Old 07-26-2014, 06:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Well, I won't be doing four coats, but I will be sanding just the top of just one of the cabinets tomorrow a.m. and giving it another roll.

The other cabinet looks pretty good now, so I'm not going to tamper with it any further.
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post #72 of 162 Old 07-26-2014, 06:20 PM
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Originally Posted by eljaycanuck View Post
Well, I won't be doing four coats, but I will be sanding just the top of just one of the cabinets tomorrow a.m. and giving it another roll.

The other cabinet looks pretty good now, so I'm not going to tamper with it any further.
How long until you get your driver ?
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post #73 of 162 Old 07-26-2014, 06:40 PM - Thread Starter
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Dunno. I ordered on July 7 and Mark said there was a two-week turn-around time. I'll give it one month so, if I don't get it by Aug. 7, I'll follow-up with him then.
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post #74 of 162 Old 07-26-2014, 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by eljaycanuck View Post
Dunno. I ordered on July 7 and Mark said there was a two-week turn-around time. I'll give it one month so, if I don't get it by Aug. 7, I'll follow-up with him then.
I see others have got there driver or its on its way so it should be soon

Just building a downfiring micro-cube tomorrow. You started a trend [emoji12]
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post #75 of 162 Old 07-26-2014, 06:44 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by chalugadp
I see others have got there driver or its on its way so it should be soon
Thanks - that's good to know.

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Just building a downfiring micro-cube tomorrow. You started a trend [emoji12]
Well, somebody had to do it!
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post #76 of 162 Old 07-27-2014, 04:41 PM - Thread Starter
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Aaaaaand that's it, the cabinets (and I) are done. Pics here.

What I've learned (or think I've learned) from the experience:
1. Fill in all seams. Don't expect the primer or the paint to hide them.

2. Sanding can be fun.

3. If you use a nap roller, stick with a nap roller and don't switch to foam. Results - and some belated reading - indicate that foam does not work as well on rough surfaces as it does on smooth.

4. Unless you really need textured paint, don't bother with DuraTex. I could easily have achieved the same highly-mediocre results (primer + two coats of DuraTex + a final coat on the tops and fronts of the cabinets) with a locally-available, good-quality wood paint for quite a bit less money.

If I had to do it over again, I'd do the seams, followed by two coats of primer and two coats of good-quality paint.

Or pay someone to do it all for me.

Last edited by eljaycanuck; 08-15-2014 at 09:04 PM.
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post #77 of 162 Old 07-27-2014, 04:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Later this week, I'll post some pics of the new cabinets in-room next to my current subs.

-- Edit --
Props, by the way, to my wonderful wife for being a sounding board for me as I was doing the work on the cabs. This morning, she put my frustration with the imperfect painting results into proper perspective:

She: You said you'll probably lose money whenever you sell these subs, right?

Me: I'll likely lose a lot of money on them, yes.

She: Well, then, don't worry so much about the finish. It looks fine and, anyway, what really matters is how they sound once everything's put together.

Amen.

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post #78 of 162 Old 08-01-2014, 11:22 PM
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Great job eljay. I can't wait to read your review of the finished project.

Klipsch RF 7 based HT 7.4, Pioneer SC 35, Acurus 200 Five, Dayton 18 Ultimxa Dual Sub Cab(2), Dayton 18 Ultimax Large Vented Sub Cab (2), on Berhinger I Nuke DPS amps, Samsung BDP F 7500, Asus/My Book Live HPC 4 TB

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post #79 of 162 Old 08-02-2014, 05:42 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks. I'm looking forward to writing that review, but given that only one of the two drivers is on its way and the amp is still on back order, it may be a while yet before I can get around to it...
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post #80 of 162 Old 08-02-2014, 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by eljaycanuck View Post
Thanks. I'm looking forward to writing that review, but given that only one of the two drivers is on its way and the amp is still on back order, it may be a while yet before I can get around to it...
Duuuuuuuude, this is beyond agonizing even as a mere spectator! I commend your patience.

I may have missed it in previous posts, but Eljay has a huge null around 17-18hz right? Have you guys made any projections on how much these subs should help him extend?
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post #81 of 162 Old 08-02-2014, 04:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Duuuuuuuude, this is beyond agonizing even as a mere spectator! I commend your patience.
Patience is easy while I still have my current subs. I just hope they're not gone before I get the new ones up and running...

Quote:
I may have missed it in previous posts, but Eljay has a huge null around 17-18hz right? Have you guys made any projections on how much these subs should help him extend?
My FR seems to roll off at ~17Hz, but MKtheater suggested I try EQ-ing my current subs to ~10Hz - using the OmniMic to generate the biquad filters, and then loading them into my miniDSP - to see if I could get passable in-room response to ~10Hz at moderate levels. I tried it and it seemed to work.

So, given that the UXLs are (reputedly) better overall drivers, and given that they'll be driven by a more powerful amp (an iNuke 6000DSP vs. the current Dayton SA1000), I should be able to get more output down to ~10Hz from dual UXLs (vs. dual SS-18s) without sacrificing any response above 20Hz and up to x-over (80Hz).

Or something like that.

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post #82 of 162 Old 08-06-2014, 06:58 PM - Thread Starter
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My first UXL arrived today! Pics to follow.

I e-mailed Mark to get an ETA on the second one, and he said he expect to have it ready for shipping by next week at the latest.

And I also got confirmation that my 6000DSP has shipped.

Time to get cracking on glueing in those plywood blocks...
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post #83 of 162 Old 08-06-2014, 07:15 PM
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My first UXL arrived today! Pics to follow.

I e-mailed Mark to get an ETA on the second one, and he said he expect to have it ready for shipping by next week at the latest.

And I also got confirmation that my 6000DSP has shipped.

Time to get cracking on glueing in those plywood blocks...
That's awesome man! Can't believe they shipped one at a time though? That's downright torturous where I come from.
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post #84 of 162 Old 08-06-2014, 07:37 PM
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Glad it's coming together.[emoji16]
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post #85 of 162 Old 08-06-2014, 09:02 PM - Thread Starter
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post #86 of 162 Old 08-06-2014, 09:45 PM
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There pretty heavy hey !!!!
Now you know why I suggested the plywood blocks.
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post #87 of 162 Old 08-07-2014, 06:12 PM - Thread Starter
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The 6000DSP has arrived! It's a slick little unit but, yeah, it's pretty noisy.

I know there are fan mods out there, but I did a bit of reading today and there's a jumble of information ranging from:
- which is the best fan to use (combination of quietness, sufficient cooling and price);
- whether or not to go fan-less (at least one guy swears by it);
- possible problems a fan mod might cause.

There doesn't seem to be a real consensus on one fan that is quiet, affordable, works well and has resulted in no issues with the amp.

Anyway, there's more reading to be done. Meanwhile, I'll put the amp in the room adjacent to the HT room and just run cables through the wall to/from it.
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post #88 of 162 Old 08-07-2014, 06:20 PM
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Originally Posted by eljaycanuck View Post
The 6000DSP has arrived! It's a slick little unit but, yeah, it's pretty noisy.

I know there are fan mods out there, but I did a bit of reading today and there's a jumble of information ranging from:
- which is the best fan to use (combination of quietness, sufficient cooling and price);
- whether or not to go fan-less (at least one guy swears by it);
- possible problems a fan mod might cause.

There doesn't seem to be a real consensus on one fan that is quiet, affordable, works well and has resulted in no issues with the amp.

Anyway, there's more reading to be done. Meanwhile, I'll put the amp in the room adjacent to the HT room and just run cables through the wall to/from it.
Consensus I got from several people was noctua rf8 fan. Good price, works great. Had it in mine for 6 months and no problems. Millions of these fans sold for pc and great reliability. Keep the stock fans and you can put them back in if need be to send back.
http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product...82E16835608006

Can buy a two pack. There are other fans a little cheaper but why scrimp 5 bucks when it does an important job.
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post #89 of 162 Old 08-07-2014, 06:27 PM
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Meanwhile, I'll put the amp in the room adjacent to the HT room and just run cables through the wall to/from it.
That is what I'm doing...
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post #90 of 162 Old 08-07-2014, 06:28 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by chalugadp
Consensus I got from several people was noctua rf8 fan. Good price, works great. ...

http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product...82E16835608006
Yeah, I read that those were one of the better fans. Amazon.ca seems to have a better price than Newegg: A pair of those fans + tax + free shipping comes in at just under $40. Hmmm...

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