Knock-down enclosures for sealed, down-firing UXL-18 subs. - Page 4 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #91 of 162 Old 08-07-2014, 05:32 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by laugsbach View Post
That is what I'm doing...
Until I'm sure the amp is working and I get comfortable with the idea of voiding its warranty, it certainly is the easiest and cheapest solution.

But it seems kind of weird to me to have to go into the next room to turn on one amp every time I want to use my system (for movies or music). Not a big deal, just weird.
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post #92 of 162 Old 08-09-2014, 11:49 AM - Thread Starter
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A few questions (relevant pics below):

1. Speakon mount
- The diameter of the hole in the sub is 1-3/8".
- The screw holes on the mount's outer plate are 1-5/8" apart. This leaves 1/8" on each side for the screws. Will that be enough to secure the plate? (I think it will be.)
- The diameter of the mount's barrel is 7/8". Should I fill the gap between the barrel and the hole with insulation (or gasket tape or something) or will it make no difference?
- Since I don't own a soldering iron, I plan to use crimp connectors on the mount's terminals. Any issues with this?

2. Driver
- The metal ring of the basket is covered with a soft plastic ring. Does the plastic ring stay on, or do I remove it if I'm going to use gasket tape to create a seal?

3. Driver cut-out (This is the one that worries me the most.)
- The diameter of the basket's ring is 18-3/8", and the screw-hole centers are ~7/16" in from the outer edge. IOW - and assuming my non-metric calculations are correct - the screw-holes are ~17-1/2" apart.
- The diameter of the cut-out in the baffle is 16-7/8", so the screws will go into the MDF only 5/16" away from the edges of the cut-out. Is that sufficient distance to ensure the MDF won't split as the screws go in?

4. Acoustic insulation
- There's a bit of insulation missing in a couple of spots. I'm pretty sure it won't cause any problems but, just the same, I'll ask: Is there any value to buying and glue-ing some additional insulation into place?

Thanks!
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Last edited by eljaycanuck; 08-14-2014 at 08:40 AM.
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post #93 of 162 Old 08-09-2014, 12:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eljaycanuck View Post
A few questions (relevant pics below):



- The diameter of the mount's barrel is 7/8". Should I fill the gap between the barrel and the hole with insulation (or gasket tape or
I tried using a 7/8" bit and it was too tight, I had to widen the hole larger. The when I built my second two subs I went and got a 15/16" and it fit perfect.
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post #94 of 162 Old 08-09-2014, 12:16 PM - Thread Starter
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So...will the gap between the 7/8" barrel and the 1-3/8" hole be an issue or a non-issue?
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post #95 of 162 Old 08-09-2014, 12:20 PM
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Only if you can hear an air leak there, if you screw the connector plate into the cabinet and don't hear anything I don't think you need to worry about it. You could always just put a bead of caulking around the inside base of the connector, that would seal the gap because the wood and the connector.
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post #96 of 162 Old 08-09-2014, 12:31 PM - Thread Starter
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OK, thanks. I'll add a bit of caulking before I screw the plate on.
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post #97 of 162 Old 08-09-2014, 12:48 PM
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Angle the screws toward the outside rim a bit. Maybe 10°. They will be fine. I'm assuming you have the plywood blocks in there.
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post #98 of 162 Old 08-09-2014, 01:01 PM - Thread Starter
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OK, I'll try angling the screws a bit. I haven't put the blocks in yet - that's next weekend's project.
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post #99 of 162 Old 08-14-2014, 04:40 AM - Thread Starter
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Just got an e-mail that the second driver is on its way!

A couple of nights ago, I lightly tested the first driver - hooked up to my SA1000 - and it seem to work fine (no funny noises, etc.).

And I confirmed with Mark that the soft plastic / rubber ring covering the metal ring of the basket is more of a trim ring than a proper seal, although he said that it can be used as a seal and suggested that applying a bead of silicone to the ring will help. He agreed that the other option - removing the ring entirely and using weatherstripping - is a perfectly good one. That's the one I'm going to go with.

So, this weekend is block-gluing, pre-drilling and driver installation weekend! Fingers crossed that nothing goes wrong...

Last night, I tested out the iNuke and although I got CH. A working, I couldn't get CH. B to work. I'm pretty sure I wired the Speakon connector incorrectly, and I think I know what I need to do to make it right (use +1 / -1 for both CH. A and CH. B, since I'll be running the amp in either DUAL or STEREO mode).
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Last edited by eljaycanuck; 08-14-2014 at 05:49 AM.
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post #100 of 162 Old 08-14-2014, 09:56 AM
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You always want to use +1/-1 unless you were going to run an amp bridged.
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post #101 of 162 Old 08-15-2014, 06:28 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbrown15
You always want to use +1/-1 unless you were going to run an amp bridged.
I re-wired the connector as +1 / -1, tested both channels and the amp appears to be working fine.

So, today ended up being a "prep day". First, I removed the rubber ring from the driver. Then I went out and bought:
- #10 x 2" screws for the drivers;
- #6 x 3/4" screws for the Neutrik mounts;
- a 3/8" x 1/2" 17' roll of weather-stripping
- a 3' length of 3/4" x 1-1/2" poplar (I couldn't find plywood strapping, and I was told that poplar is at least as strong)

Finally, I cut sixteen 1-1/4" blocks and sanded the rough edges.

Glue and clamps are standing by. This gets done tomorrow. (Famous last words? )
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post #102 of 162 Old 08-15-2014, 06:31 PM - Thread Starter
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Question: 1/2" wide weather-stripping bunches up as it's laid out in a circle. Do you guys cut notches into the weather-stripping in order to make sure it's completely flat, or do you leave the lumps in place and let the driver squash it flat?
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post #103 of 162 Old 08-15-2014, 06:32 PM
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It will squash.
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post #104 of 162 Old 08-16-2014, 07:13 PM - Thread Starter
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One down, one to go! Pics and play-by-play.

Although I didn't take any measurements tonight, I did test it out with...
- stock settings on the iNuke, and gain set to "noon";
- Audyssey off in the AVR, and sub level set to 0dB; and
- no miniDSP in the chain,
...and it sounded good (no air leaks or any other strange sounds that I could make out).

If I get a chance tomorrow, I'll get the laptop out and take some preliminary measurements, and maybe even run Audyssey to see how that looks and sounds.

Last edited by eljaycanuck; 08-16-2014 at 07:29 PM.
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post #105 of 162 Old 08-16-2014, 07:31 PM
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Gain set to noon?
Crank that thing up to full, your amp will give out before that driver does.
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post #106 of 162 Old 08-16-2014, 07:33 PM
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Looks great by the way!
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post #107 of 162 Old 08-16-2014, 07:38 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbrown15 View Post
Gain set to noon?
Well, I wasn't sure how high to set the gain on the new amp, so I figured noon was a safe bet. For starters, anyway...

Quote:
Originally Posted by jbrown15 View Post
Looks great by the way!
Thanks!
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post #108 of 162 Old 08-16-2014, 07:49 PM
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Looking sweet !!!!
Crank it like joe says and knock some clocks off the wall [emoji33]
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post #109 of 162 Old 08-16-2014, 07:51 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks. And I'll be cranking it as soon as I get the chance. I'm curious to see what this driver + amp combo can do!
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post #110 of 162 Old 08-16-2014, 08:31 PM
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Looking good Eljay!!
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post #111 of 162 Old 08-17-2014, 07:00 AM - Thread Starter
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post #112 of 162 Old 08-17-2014, 10:31 AM
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you are going to need to set up low shelf or a boost on your dsp. Then set the amp to the 2:30 position.
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post #113 of 162 Old 08-17-2014, 10:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by datranz View Post
you are going to need to set up low shelf or a boost on your dsp. Then set the amp to the 2:30 position.
That driver can handle the full power of the inuke . If your going to boost then wouldn't you want gains higher.
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post #114 of 162 Old 08-17-2014, 10:50 AM
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I have my gain up all the way. Your house is going to give out before the driver. I am only hitting 2 lights lit up on my amp at times 3. I have never gone into the red and my house thanks me for it..lol

Sub build http://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...et-r-done.html
Center - JBL LC2
Mains - JBL L820
Surrounds - JBL L820
Sub - Dual UXL'18 enclosures,iNuke6000dsp
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post #115 of 162 Old 08-17-2014, 11:37 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info, guys. I'll try a few different settings and see what works best.
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post #116 of 162 Old 08-17-2014, 12:19 PM
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IME, full gains clips the amp too often. I guess i could turn the gain down on the receiver and max on the amp, but the signal won't be as clean. (-2 on the reciever for bass channel).
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post #117 of 162 Old 08-17-2014, 02:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by datranz View Post
IME, full gains clips the amp too often. I guess i could turn the gain down on the receiver and max on the amp, but the signal won't be as clean. (-2 on the reciever for bass channel).

Are you completely sure about that? I have to run the sub setting on my receiver at -10 and I have the gains 6 notches back from full and my subs still want to bring my house down on top of me and to top it off I can only get 2-3 of the LEDS to come on. I have yet to see the red clip light come on. And there's plenty of guys who have now heard my subs and can vouch for how powerful they are.


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post #118 of 162 Old 08-17-2014, 03:50 PM
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where the gain is set on the inuke depends on how much voltage the particular avr is outputting . it will hit full power with something like 0.7 volts and the gain all the way up. but it will also hit full power with higher input voltage and the gain turned up only part way. kind of a long winded way of saying that the gain doesn't have to be full up in every case to get full power out of the amp.

Listen. It's All Good.
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post #119 of 162 Old 08-17-2014, 04:49 PM - Thread Starter
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This afternoon, I moved the amp behind the wall - into the furnace area - and set it onto a small riser. With the amp out of the way - and the room MUCH quieter for it! - I ran Audyssey, which prompted me to set the gain on the amp to "noon". The final cal shows a familiar curve rolling off at 17Hz.

- Red is Aud off, 0dB MV
- Black is Aud on, 0dB MV
- Blue is Aud on, DEQ on, -10dB MV
(No smoothing applied.)
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Last edited by eljaycanuck; 08-19-2014 at 05:13 PM.
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post #120 of 162 Old 08-17-2014, 05:31 PM - Thread Starter
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I played a couple of movie clips and a couple of songs and my first impression is that the bass is "thicker"-sounding than what I was used to hearing from the SS-18s.

Last edited by eljaycanuck; 08-19-2014 at 08:07 AM.
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