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post #181 of 602 Old 08-01-2014, 02:22 PM - Thread Starter
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Man I'm still outta town! BUT, I think all my supplies are at the house now. The inuke 6000dsp, 100' 10awg, Neutrik connectors and SI 18s have all been delivered just need wood! I have a slew of errands to run before I start school. Between shifts at work and that, I hope to have it done or at least assembled by the 20th when school starts.
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post #182 of 602 Old 08-01-2014, 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by ambesolman View Post
Man I'm still outta town! BUT, I think all my supplies are at the house now. The inuke 6000dsp, 100' 10awg, Neutrik connectors and SI 18s have all been delivered just need wood! I have a slew of errands to run before I start school. Between shifts at work and that, I hope to have it done or at least assembled by the 20th when school starts.
And based on our discussions at Beast's GTG, I thought you were going to run four HS24s...just kidding. Sounds like a plan coming together...good luck man.
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post #183 of 602 Old 08-04-2014, 10:38 AM - Thread Starter
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Well...finally got back to town last night. What should've been a 7.5 hr drive turned into a 10 hr drive. Had a blowout 30mi before Tuscaloosa. With no tire place open, we had to cruise at 55mph all the way back to atlanta on a Fing donut.
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post #184 of 602 Old 08-04-2014, 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by ambesolman View Post
Well...finally got back to town last night. What should've been a 7.5 hr drive turned into a 10 hr drive. Had a blowout 30mi before Tuscaloosa. With no tire place open, we had to cruise at 55mph all the way back to atlanta on a Fing donut.
Sucks man...sorry to hear that. Glad you made it home safe though.
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post #185 of 602 Old 08-04-2014, 12:03 PM - Thread Starter
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Help with first DIY: DO SI 18

Thanks. For someone who has a lead foot, it was agony. Got a new tire this morning and picked up my granite while I was out. The bullnose roundover is $15/foot so it ended up being $187 total. Not too bad since it was a free rock It's not as seamless as a wooden roundover but looks good none the less.







And some other goodies...



I thought I was going to go with the 4 x 10' sheets of birch, but they wanted over $100/sheet So I'm just gonna use one sheet of mdf and two sheets of 4 x 8' birch which I'll pick up wed or thurs.
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post #186 of 602 Old 08-06-2014, 02:09 PM - Thread Starter
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Help with first DIY: DO SI 18

Due to the lack of access to a truck, I had to go the Home Depot route for wood. The selection was unimpressive, but I managed to get a few decent pieces of birch and mdf cut into manageable sizes to transport home. I decided to add 1/4" to all dimensions to give HD and myself room for error (thanks dgage). I need to rewire my speakers on the porch so I have tunes to work with today. Planning on cutting the final dimensions today or, most likely, tomorrow.

But, I got wood!


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post #187 of 602 Old 08-06-2014, 11:02 PM
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Woohoo! Go forth a build something useful...and what could be more useful than a bass making box?
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post #188 of 602 Old 08-07-2014, 04:46 PM - Thread Starter
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Got a little done so far. I used the table saw to trim the mdf pieces and a couple of small pieces for the top to flank the stone. Seems I should've given HD more room for error cuz one of the mdf pieces is about 1/8" short, but I can glue a shim in if I need it I guess.

The table saw does ok but the edge guide doesn't stay straight so I have to try and measure at the front and back of the blade to make sure it's not angled which is a PITA. I ended up free handing some of the cuts without the guide that turned out ok.

Since the table saw is inconsistent, as are my free hand cuts, should I just use the router with a straight edge and flush bit to trim the rest of my pieces? Should I use painters tape when I do so? The veneer on this stuff is no more than 1/16" thick so I'm worried about f-ing up the edges.

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post #189 of 602 Old 08-07-2014, 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by ambesolman View Post
Got a little done so far. I used the table saw to trim the mdf pieces and a couple of small pieces for the top to flank the stone. Seems I should've given HD more room for error cuz one of the mdf pieces is about 1/8" short, but I can glue a shim in if I need it I guess.

The table saw does ok but the edge guide doesn't stay straight so I have to try and measure at the front and back of the blade to make sure it's not angled which is a PITA. I ended up free handing some of the cuts without the guide that turned out ok.

Since the table saw is inconsistent, as are my free hand cuts, should I just use the router with a straight edge and flush bit to trim the rest of my pieces? Should I use painters tape when I do so? The veneer on this stuff is no more than 1/16" thick so I'm worried about f-ing up the edges.

I hope this doesn't come off elitist as I was at your level of tools one day...back when I was in college. Buying a cheap table saw from Sears was one of the worst tool purchases I ever made. I couldn't get anything straight and I guess its amazing that I'm a hobbyist woodworker now because I was really discouraged at the time. Unfortunately, since I had been through that before I had a pretty strong feeling you'd run into the same issue...which is why I wrote that humongous post about how to assemble your box with the fewest accurate cuts needed. So yes, I would review my steps and see if they would help you assemble the box using the router to flush panels.

I know you aren't likely to do this anytime soon since your budget is probably going to your stereo system (as it should ) but if you want to get a better saw later, I'd recommend a track saw like this Dewalt (http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWS520K...ords=track+saw). I have a Festool track saw and it is hands down the best tool purchase I ever made. If you made me choose between my table saw with an aftermarket sliding table or the Festool track saw...I'd have a tough decision but I'm pretty sure I take the Festool track saw.

But tool purchases are nice but real woodworkers solve problems using the tools they have...in that case I'm not a real woodworker, more like a hobbyist woodworker but pro tool collector. But what I was going to say is, we can potentially get your current table saw to work more accurately.

1. Take the fence off, hold it by the end, lean way back, and chuck it as far as you can. I kid...somewhat.
2. Put a piece of tape on a saw tooth.
3. Find a piece of wood with a perfectly (close) straight edge (maybe the edge of your mdf as those are normally real straight). This will become your fence.
4. Get a pair of clamps so you can clamp the straight edge to the table front and table back.
5. Position the straight edge to roughly the correct dimension and clamp the front.
6. Move the saw blade tooth with the piece of tape to the front of the cutting slot and right next to the table.
7. Measure from the taped tooth to the straight edge fence and adjust until accurate, which would mean loosening and then tightening the front clamp.
8. Take the taped tooth and move it to the rear of the cutting slot and repeat the measurement to the straight edge fence. Once you get that accurate, tighten the rear clamp. Note, you don't want to pinch the blade so you might want to make the rear measurement just a slight bit more (like 1 mm more). You definitely don't want the rear of the fence closer to the blade than the front...bad juju.
9. Remeasure and make sure your front measurement is still accurate and the rear measurement is the same as the front plus a little extra so you aren't pinching the blade.
10. See if you can cut accurately. It is possible that the arbor supporting the spinning saw blade has too much runout, which means it won't cut very straight.
11. Also, make sure you are pushing forward and towards the fence. DO NOT STAND BEHIND THE TABLE SAW. Obviously you need to keep your fingers away from the blade so I'd strongly recommend using a blade guard. But what most people don't understand about the table saw is that kick back is very dangerous too. The blade is spending toward you and could easily grab a piece of wood (remember me mentioning the fence and pinching wood) and throw it back towards you at a high rate of speed. Do a search on it and you'll learn how dangerous kick back truly is on a table saw.

Hope this helps some. Be safe and build well.
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post #190 of 602 Old 08-07-2014, 10:13 PM
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If your just going to build a couple more speaker boxes then just use a straight edge with skillsaw or tablesaw u have. If you have the space for a full size tablesaw then that's the best buy. You can do so much more then track saw and much faster. Dado, rabbits, box joints to name a few.

If your just looking to make simple cabinets you might want to try this
http://www.eurekazone.com/mobile/Pro...tCode=EZUEGSB1
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post #191 of 602 Old 08-08-2014, 05:15 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dgage View Post
I hope this doesn't come off elitist as I was at your level of tools one day...back when I was in college. Buying a cheap table saw from Sears was one of the worst tool purchases I ever made. I couldn't get anything straight and I guess its amazing that I'm a hobbyist woodworker now because I was really discouraged at the time. Unfortunately, since I had been through that before I had a pretty strong feeling you'd run into the same issue...which is why I wrote that humongous post about how to assemble your box with the fewest accurate cuts needed. So yes, I would review my steps and see if they would help you assemble the box using the router to flush panels.

Believe me, if I had spent money for a table saw, it wouldn't have been this one This was one of many free tools my sister in law gave me (they were her ex's).
Since all the pieces are a little different, the clamping and unclamping for each cut gets old. That's what I was doing yesterday.
Think I'm going to read back over your router method.
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post #192 of 602 Old 08-09-2014, 03:18 PM - Thread Starter
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Dgage or anyone,

I'm having trouble figuring out where to start since the pieces aren't the final dimensions. I'm assuming that I'll start with the bottom and need to draw lines where the inside edges of the walls would be? Or just draw a rectangle on the bottom for the internal volume's base?
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post #193 of 602 Old 08-09-2014, 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by ambesolman View Post
Dgage or anyone,

I'm having trouble figuring out where to start since the pieces aren't the final dimensions. I'm assuming that I'll start with the bottom and need to draw lines where the inside edges of the walls would be? Or just draw a rectangle on the bottom for the internal volume's base?
Unfortunately, you will need to cut a back and a side "perfectly" to size and square. You would then use that back and side with double-sided tape to router the other inner-front and other side to the same as the first pair.

Since you don't have accurate tools, you might want to take your back, inner front, and sides to a cabinet maker and ask them to cut them for you. Once you have that set cut to the correct dimensions AND square, you can then start assembly, overlaying your edges on all of the other pieces and routing flush. The long list of steps I put together were put together with only a back and side needing to be correctly sized. Follow my instructions from there and you'll be routing the edges for all of the other pieces.

Wish I was closer and I'd do it for you. If you need me to, PM me and I'll cut you a back and side to size and send them to you.

David
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post #194 of 602 Old 08-09-2014, 09:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the generous offer! I'll see what kind if help I can dig up locally, but will definitely keep that in mind. I have a buddy that used to do cabinet work. If he's got any free time I'll make the drive to his place. He's not close but it'd be worth it to get this project going, plus we haven't hung out in a while.
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post #195 of 602 Old 08-09-2014, 11:39 PM
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Gotta ask....what would a down firering full marty look like....
would the thread be called..takin you DOWN to Marty town?
sry for hijack, wonderful progress!!

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post #196 of 602 Old 08-10-2014, 12:03 AM
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Down cube, just picture taller
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post #197 of 602 Old 08-10-2014, 12:59 AM
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Gotta ask....what would a down firering full marty look like....
would the thread be called..takin you DOWN to Marty town?
sry for hijack, wonderful progress!!
Picture a small refrigerator with a sub driver mounted under neither it!....lol
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post #198 of 602 Old 08-18-2014, 07:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Well, my buddy has been too busy to help and called several wood shops/cabinet makers and no one was willing or able to cut down my wood for me. I said $?&@ it!
After messing with my table saw and not being able to get it to work the way I wanted to even though I was able to straighten up the blade, I decided to just try using a skill saw and cut and edge guide I'd bought. Damn if I didn't work out perfectly. I placed painters tape over my lines to help keep the thin veneer from splitting and it seemed to help some. The main thing is keeping the inside edges up when I saw since it won't matter as much if the inner veneer gets messed up. I have a couple more pieces to trim tomorrow after I go renew my drivers license. Then I'll try and dry fit it and see how it's looking.
This is the straight edge I'm using, best $20 spent so far.

Click image for larger version

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So there's at least some progress being made and I'm a little more confident about making cuts.
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post #199 of 602 Old 08-18-2014, 07:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ambesolman View Post
Well, my buddy has been too busy to help and called several wood shops/cabinet makers and no one was willing or able to cut down my wood for me. I said $?&@ it!
After messing with my table saw and not being able to get it to work the way I wanted to even though I was able to straighten up the blade, I decided to just try using a skill saw and cut and edge guide I'd bought. Damn if I didn't work out perfectly. I placed painters tape over my lines to help keep the thin veneer from splitting and it seemed to help some. The main thing is keeping the inside edges up when I saw since it won't matter as much if the inner veneer gets messed up. I have a couple more pieces to trim tomorrow after I go renew my drivers license. Then I'll try and dry fit it and see how it's looking.
This is the straight edge I'm using, best $20 spent so far.

Attachment 218633

So there's at least some progress being made and I'm a little more confident about making cuts.
lol....i have a few of those same harbor freight clamps....and love mine to. Isnt it such a good feeling when you buy something, and realize you absolutely got your money's worth: )
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post #200 of 602 Old 08-20-2014, 05:58 PM - Thread Starter
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Progress!!!

Finally got done trimming up all the pieces so I decided to dry fit to roughly see how it'll look...ambe like!

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post #201 of 602 Old 08-20-2014, 06:55 PM
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Getting close!
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post #202 of 602 Old 08-23-2014, 01:11 PM - Thread Starter
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Help with first DIY: DO SI 18

Thinking about assembly...should I bother putting any if it together before I have all my holes cut in the baffles and braces?


Sent using Tapatalk since the mobile version is still
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post #203 of 602 Old 08-23-2014, 01:22 PM
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Originally Posted by ambesolman View Post
Thinking about assembly...should I bother putting any if it together before I have all my holes cut in the baffles and braces?


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Yes. Baffle and top last piece to put on.
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post #204 of 602 Old 08-23-2014, 01:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ambesolman View Post
Well, my buddy has been too busy to help and called several wood shops/cabinet makers and no one was willing or able to cut down my wood for me. I said $?&@ it!
After messing with my table saw and not being able to get it to work the way I wanted to even though I was able to straighten up the blade, I decided to just try using a skill saw and cut and edge guide I'd bought. Damn if I didn't work out perfectly. I placed painters tape over my lines to help keep the thin veneer from splitting and it seemed to help some. The main thing is keeping the inside edges up when I saw since it won't matter as much if the inner veneer gets messed up. I have a couple more pieces to trim tomorrow after I go renew my drivers license. Then I'll try and dry fit it and see how it's looking.
This is the straight edge I'm using, best $20 spent so far.

Attachment 218633

So there's at least some progress being made and I'm a little more confident about making cuts.
Thumbs up! Best solution is the one that gets it done!
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post #205 of 602 Old 08-23-2014, 02:40 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post
Yes. Baffle and top last piece to put on.

Ok. I'm gonna try to make the circle jig you proposed. Should any of the baffles be glued together before routing out the circles or should I just do them individually? Trying to make sure all the stacked circles are centered together appropriately.


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post #206 of 602 Old 08-23-2014, 03:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ambesolman View Post
Ok. I'm gonna try to make the circle jig you proposed. Should any of the baffles be glued together before routing out the circles or should I just do them individually? Trying to make sure all the stacked circles are centered together appropriately.


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If you router then glue first.
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post #207 of 602 Old 08-23-2014, 05:42 PM
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If you router then glue first.
I'd say it depends on the bits you have. Do you have a bit that will plunge into wood and is long enough to cut holes in 1.5" of wood? If you do then you could glue first. If your bit isn't that long, then you'll need a flush trim bit with the bearing on the bottom, which you'd need anyway if you've been using the router to flush trim the edges. I've done it both ways but I personally like to have the inner front on the inside between the sides and top/bottom so I cut a hole first, then put the outer baffle overhanging on all sides. Then I use a flush trim but to flush the front baffle around the sides and top/bottom. Then I use the flush trim bit to cut the hole in the outer baffle the same diameter as the inner baffle.
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post #208 of 602 Old 08-23-2014, 05:44 PM
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For recessed driver you only go 3/4" deep. If he is mounting on top just cut out with jigsaw.
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post #209 of 602 Old 08-23-2014, 05:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post
For recessed driver you only go 3/4" deep. If he is mounting on top just cut out with jigsaw.
Ok. When he said baffles, I read that as he was doubling up the front piece of wood, which I remember that being in his plans. So to the question of making sure the circle is centered here is what I do but obviously there is more than one way.

I put in the front inner baffle (assumes you are putting two pieces for the sub to mount to) inside of the sides and top/bottom. I drill a hole in the center for my circle cutting jig and cut out the circle for the sub to mount into. This leaves you with a perfectly centered hole for the sub. Then it put on my second layer of the sub mounting plate overhanging the edges on all sides and glue that down. I often cut a smaller hole in the center of the second layer so I can fit some clamps in to help glue it down better but it isn't the final hole size for the subwoofer as I do that after the glue dries. Once the glue dries I flush trim all around the edges and then flush trim the center. That's how I do it but there isn't a right answer. I just like having baffles that interlock with the sides, one inside, one outside the edges as opposed to just a double layer baffle that is attached to the edges of the sides, top/bottom. Having one baffle inside the sides and top/bottom and then the other baffle over the edges of the sides and top/bottom will better ensure there are no leaks where simple butt joints could introduce leaks. Hope that made sense because I wrote a lot. Sorry.
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post #210 of 602 Old 08-23-2014, 06:05 PM
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Any gap issues can be dealt with spackle. Always lots of ways to do it. Make sure you have plywood blocks for back of baffle if you are using mdf.
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