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post #241 of 602 Old 08-29-2014, 11:04 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post
18 ga. 80 to 90 psi


Quote:
Originally Posted by dgage View Post
And shorter nails than the thickness of your wood together. And depending on the pressure and depth setting on your nailer, the nail may be below the surface so again, be conservative on nail length.

Also, I'm not sure if you've used a brad nailer much but keep your fingers well away from where you are nailing. Too many times have I seen a nail hit a knot or something and bend back up and come out beside where you were nailing...and many people have been impaled in a thumb or finger this way. So please be aware and safe.

Great progress! I'm so happy you're going to be joining the DBHA soon...DIY Bass Heads Association (TM).

Thanks guys!

So 1.25" should be fine?

Another issue I have is that I have to cut a notch out of the top of each side panel approx 17.5" wide by 7/16" deep. I'll have to router out the same dimensions across the whole inner top. These cuts will allow the granite to be recessed into the inner top and sides so that the granite is flush with the final top pieces.

My question is, should I cut the notch out of the side panels before or after it's assembled?

How much thickness does the adhesive usually add?

I hesitant to make any of these cuts since I don't know how much the adhesive for attaching the granite will add to its height that I'll need to compensate for. Cuz once it's on, it's on and I can't recut anything.


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post #242 of 602 Old 08-29-2014, 11:15 PM
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I have 1.25" brads for baffle and bracing and 1.5" for rest.(any brad going into longer then 1.5")

Adhesive will only add like 1/32". I'd cut notch before .
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post #243 of 602 Old 08-29-2014, 11:56 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks!


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post #244 of 602 Old 08-30-2014, 07:32 AM
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Originally Posted by ambesolman View Post
Thanks!


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Check the mobile browser now mine is working finally.


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post #245 of 602 Old 08-30-2014, 08:54 AM - Thread Starter
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Gamecock, looks like it's gotten better! I'd have just given you a thumbs up/like, but can't find the option? Will stick with tapatalk until they add it I think.
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post #246 of 602 Old 08-30-2014, 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by ambesolman View Post
Gamecock, looks like it's gotten better! I'd have just given you a thumbs up/like, but can't find the option? Will stick with tapatalk until they add it I think.

Yea I'll stick with Tapatalk for ease and the push notification I get.


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post #247 of 602 Old 08-30-2014, 04:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post
I have 1.25" brads for baffle and bracing and 1.5" for rest.(any brad going into longer then 1.5")

Adhesive will only add like 1/32". I'd cut notch before .
And I was going to suggest use the router to do the notch afterwards using the top sides as guides. Haha. There isn't a single right way. But if you could take a picture of the enclosure with the pieces dry fitted (no glue) so we can see what you are talking about, we can give more accurate guidance.

It must be that north of the border, south of the border thing where Chalugadp and I have different takes on things. Like I said no right answer.
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post #248 of 602 Old 08-30-2014, 05:33 PM
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Need a picture but your way makes sense
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post #249 of 602 Old 08-30-2014, 06:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Help with first DIY: DO SI 18

You'll have to zoom in on the rendering to see the notches at the top of what will actually be the front and back (subs will be firing to the sides parallel to the wall). The "inner top" is also shown that has a large area recessed for the granite to lay on.

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Inner top

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Granite and top pieces on either side of the granite sitting on the inner top

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With holes cut...

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post #250 of 602 Old 08-30-2014, 06:08 PM
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HAHA. Me thinks Ambesolman is lucky to have us giving him advice even if we don't always agree. It will be better that way as I certainly don't have all the answers.

But if you do use the router, make sure to clamp a sacrificial piece of wood on the outside of the edge you are routing as when the router exits, it has a habit of blowing out the wood as the bit is spinning so fast. Without the sacrificial board clamped, it could really mess up the outside of your box. Here's a link of what I'm talking about. The top picture shows the problem and picture #6 shows the sacrificial board supporting the bit past your nice wood.

http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/re...RouterTearout/

Also, if you roundover the outside edges, you have to worry about this too...but one trick is to climb cut, which means go clockwise from the far edge for just an inch or so and then reset on the near edge and go counter-clockwise as is suggested when routing on the outside. Routing on the inside such as in a picture frame is normally done clockwise.
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post #251 of 602 Old 08-30-2014, 06:11 PM
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What sort of router bits do you have as that will affect our recommendations? Maybe take a picture of those.
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post #252 of 602 Old 08-30-2014, 06:15 PM
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Need closer pics of edge where two meet.
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post #253 of 602 Old 08-30-2014, 06:35 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dgage View Post
What sort of router bits do you have as that will affect our recommendations? Maybe take a picture of those.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post
Need closer pics of edge where two meet.

The front and inner top?

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post #254 of 602 Old 08-30-2014, 06:39 PM
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If I'm understanding correctly, when you put the two tops on either side of the granite, the granite is higher than the wood next to it...so you'd need to remove wood from under the entire section of granite? Is that correct?

EDIT: Or did you put the inner top just a 1/4" or so down from the edge on the sides, which means you just need to get rid of that little lip on the sides? Hard to tell from the picture.

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post #255 of 602 Old 08-30-2014, 06:59 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dgage View Post
If I'm understanding correctly, when you put the two tops on either side of the granite, the granite is higher than the wood next to it...so you'd need to remove wood from under the entire section of granite? Is that correct?
Correct, includes the lip at ends of the granite.

Quote:
EDIT: Or did you put the inner top just a 1/4" or so down from the edge on the sides, which means you just need to get rid of that little lip on the sides? Hard to tell from the picture.




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post #256 of 602 Old 08-30-2014, 07:11 PM
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OK. You mentioned lips on the granite. So how much wood do you need to remove to make the granite sit flush?

1. If it is just the edge of the side, then I would turn your box on it's side and use the flush trim bit to rout the side flush to the inner top.

2. If it is just a few inches on the left and rights sides then I'd use the bits on the far left or far right and rout out the material. You'll need to put a bridge board across the outer tops to support the router.

3. If you need to remove material from the entire inner top to make the granite fit, then I'd just find some thin material from the big box store such as 1/4" plywood or similar and make your two side tops thicker.
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post #257 of 602 Old 08-30-2014, 07:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by dgage View Post
OK. You mentioned lips on the granite. So how much wood do you need to remove to make the granite sit flush?

1. If it is just the edge of the side, then I would turn your box on it's side and use the flush trim bit to rout the side flush to the inner top.

2. If it is just a few inches on the left and rights sides then I'd use the bits on the far left or far right and rout out the material. You'll need to put a bridge board across the outer tops to support the router.

3. If you need to remove material from the entire inner top to make the granite fit, then I'd just find some thin material from the big box store such as 1/4" plywood or similar and make your two side tops thicker.


3. The only problem with that plan is if I don't recess the granite and just stack the top side pieces to be flush with the granite, then the whole too will be higher than the top edge of the outer baffles.


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post #258 of 602 Old 08-30-2014, 07:32 PM
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Have you already glued in the inner top? If not, the best thing would be to glue it just below the edge of your sides so that the only wood you have to remove is the top edge of the sides.

If you have already glued it, just get ready to have a lot of "fun" routing out the entire inner top as it won't be fun and will be messy...I hope you have a face mask to protect from dust inhalation. If you need to rout the entire top between the top sides, build a bridge like the following and just make sure the router doesn't cut into the top sides, better yet, don't attach them until you are done routing.
http://www.dans-hobbies.com/2008/06/...e-router-sled/
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post #259 of 602 Old 08-30-2014, 08:10 PM - Thread Starter
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I haven't glued anything yet. Granite is 1 3/16" thick. So if I don't router out that large space in the inner top, then I'd trim the necessary 7/16" off the height of each brace and innermost baffles as well as the notches in the front and back panels. Then build up the top pieces on either side of granite, which would likely have to be routered down to get the right final height. Correct?


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post #260 of 602 Old 08-30-2014, 10:49 PM - Thread Starter
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Help with first DIY: DO SI 18

As far as the top pieces flanking the granite go, instead of trying to get them flush with the upper edges of the outer baffles, I'll just trim the outer baffles to be flush with the front and back and inner top. This way all I'll have to do is just make those top pieces a little wider to also lay on top of the outer baffles. This will keep me only having to keep those pieces flush with the granite instead of the granite AND the top of the outer baffles.

Still thinking about how to recess the granite


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post #261 of 602 Old 08-31-2014, 12:36 AM
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I know this is crude but hopefully the attached picture will get my point across.

1. Green - Glue and screw "cleats" on the inside of your box, which will hold the inner top piece of plywood. The inner top will be below the sides enough to accommodate the thickness of the granite.
2. Blue - This is your inner top and you will glue this into the sides and resting on your "cleat". The inner top should be in far enough that the granite would be flush with the outer tops if the sides weren't in the way...which will be addressed next.
3. Red - The red represents the side that needs to be notched. The idea is that once you rout the side flush to the inner top, you will have your notch cut and the granite will then be able to rest on you inner top that was glued below the surface of the sides.

Does this make sense?

And if you have a gap for some reason between the wood to the left and right of the granite and the top that is now recessed some, just cut some wood and glue it on to extend down appropriately. The granite will hide it.

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post #262 of 602 Old 08-31-2014, 09:37 AM - Thread Starter
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Help with first DIY: DO SI 18

Makes sense except one thing...

Why add cleats when the inner top rests on top of the braces and innermost baffles like this strip of wood? Even if I use cleats I'll have to trim the same four pieces to the same heights I would put the cleats at. Those four pieces would already support the inner top without the need for cleats.

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post #263 of 602 Old 08-31-2014, 10:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ambesolman View Post
Makes sense except one thing...

Why add cleats when the inner top rests on top of the braces and innermost baffles like this strip of wood? Even if I use cleats I'll have to trim the same four pieces to the same heights I would put the cleats at. Those four pieces would already support the inner top without the need for cleats.
Nope, it's got to be cleats. J/K. Well, trim a bit off the top and bottom of the braces/baffles and that should work great.
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post #264 of 602 Old 08-31-2014, 08:12 PM - Thread Starter
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Help with first DIY: DO SI 18

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Originally Posted by dgage View Post
Nope, it's got to be cleats. J/K. Well, trim a bit off the top and bottom of the braces/baffles and that should work great.

Ended up trimming those four pieces to lower the inner top as well as trimmed the tops of the outer baffles to be flush with the front/back panels.
Also test fit the drivers and they fit no problem.
I still have to cut the notches in the front/back panels, but thinking I may do that with the flush bit to the inner top once the rest is glued and nailed together. Should give me the most accurate cut?
Also, since lowering the inner top, when adding the top pieces on either side of the granite, there's a 7/16" gap between the two. It's probably safe to assume two 6x27x7/16" air pockets aren't a good idea. I'll have to figure out a way to trim down the thickness of either some spare plywood or mdf to fill the gaps.
Of course all that could be done after some assembly has been completed...hmmm. Might be time to figure out how the air compressor works!


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post #265 of 602 Old 08-31-2014, 09:41 PM
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Yeah, I figured you'd have a gap, you can glue on a small piece on and either cut or rout it to the correct size against a straight edge. I'd take care of this BEFORE you assemble.

And yes, I would definitely turn the box on the side and then use the router with a flush trim bit against the inside top.
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post #266 of 602 Old 08-31-2014, 11:09 PM - Thread Starter
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Help with first DIY: DO SI 18

Quote:
Originally Posted by dgage View Post
Yeah, I figured you'd have a gap, you can glue on a small piece on and either cut or rout it to the correct size against a straight edge. I'd take care of this BEFORE you assemble.
Not sure what you mean. I was planning on cutting some mdf to fit in the space and run them vertically through the table saw to get the right thickness. Seems like I could do this towards the end when everything but the top pieces and granite go on.

Quote:
And yes, I would definitely turn the box on the side and then use the router with a flush trim bit against the inside top.

That's what I was thinking too
When I router that, the radius of the bottom corner (where the edge if the granite sits) will be the same as the bit. What's the best way to sharpen that out? Don't need exactly a 90deg corner since the granite edges were smoothed over. You can kinda see it before the roundover starts.

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post #267 of 602 Old 09-01-2014, 06:48 AM
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Originally Posted by ambesolman View Post
Not sure what you mean. I was planning on cutting some mdf to fit in the space and run them vertically through the table saw to get the right thickness. Seems like I could do this towards the end when everything but the top pieces and granite go on.
Didn't know if you still had the table saw...that's how I'd do it then but you'd have to do that BEFORE you assembled since you did mention you might address after assembly.

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Originally Posted by ambesolman View Post
That's what I was thinking too
When I router that, the radius of the bottom corner (where the edge if the granite sits) will be the same as the bit. What's the best way to sharpen that out? Don't need exactly a 90deg corner since the granite edges were smoothed over. You can kinda see it before the roundover starts.

Attachment 239945
Yes, you'll have a small rounded corner to deal with...many use sharp chisels for those...I like my inexpensive Japanese flush cutting PULL saw I purchased at Woodcraft. Looks like Lowe's has the Irwin Double Edge Pull Saw, which looks similar if Woodcraft is a ways away.
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post #268 of 602 Old 09-01-2014, 08:26 AM - Thread Starter
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Didn't know if you still had the table saw...that's how I'd do it then but you'd have to do that BEFORE you assembled since you did mention you might address after assembly.


Yes, you'll have a small rounded corner to deal with...many use sharp chisels for those...I like my inexpensive Japanese flush cutting PULL saw I purchased at Woodcraft. Looks like Lowe's has the Irwin Double Edge Pull Saw, which looks similar if Woodcraft is a ways away.

I was thinking along these same lines, just have to remember to only run the saw towards the inside of the box


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post #269 of 602 Old 09-01-2014, 05:10 PM - Thread Starter
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Made some pretty good progress today. Glued and nailed all this together. Will work on horizontal braces and maybe some other stuff tomorrow. Damn I love a nail gun! Got school stuff to do so may not get much done the next couple of days.

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post #270 of 602 Old 09-01-2014, 08:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ambesolman View Post
Made some pretty good progress today. Glued and nailed all this together. Will work on horizontal braces and maybe some other stuff tomorrow. Damn I love a nail gun! Got school stuff to do so may not get much done the next couple of days.

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Looking good man! Soon, very soon.
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