Design Challenge - Ceiling speakers for Dolby Atmos - Page 5 - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
 67Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #121 of 363 Old 07-05-2014, 06:49 PM
Say No to Auto EQ
 
beastaudio's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Western NC
Posts: 8,370
Mentioned: 60 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1085 Post(s)
Liked: 1033
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trepidati0n View Post
Odd question...not sure if I missed this here, but wouldn't a DIY electrostatic do the job? I mean they would be thin as snot. The only hard part is finding a way to hide the high voltage gear..but that might be able to be done in ceiling.
ES speakers would have an inherently small sweet spot. While a great idea for area of displacement per speaker, the actual concept of a MP style would not yield good results if I had to guess...

(European models do not accept banana plugs.)

 

"If you done it, it ain't bragging." ~ Walt Whitman

 

AE TD12x SEOS12 Build

Beast's DIY Master Measurement Thread

DIY Emminence Coaxial Surround Thread

beastaudio is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #122 of 363 Old 07-06-2014, 12:46 AM
Advanced Member
 
Manic1!'s Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 843
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 52 Post(s)
Liked: 33
Car audio speakers are designed to be placed in a door with no enclosures. So that might be an option.
Manic1! is online now  
post #123 of 363 Old 07-06-2014, 07:48 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Erich H's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Cincinnati OH
Posts: 5,712
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 553 Post(s)
Liked: 817
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mfusick View Post
Fusion quad 4 ?
This might be completely wrong, but what about a really shallow speaker that had more squared up dimensions? Like 14" x 14" x 4.5" deep. Tweeter in the middle surrounded by four small woofers?

That's not optimal for front speakers, but would it work good for for these types of ceiling speakers?
Erich H is online now  
post #124 of 363 Old 07-06-2014, 08:09 AM
AVS Special Member
 
HopefulFred's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 2,986
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 230 Post(s)
Liked: 229
Quote:
Originally Posted by Erich H View Post
Like 14" x 14" x 4.5" deep. Tweeter in the middle surrounded by four small woofers?
I don't know about optimal, and I don't know if this even works, but it looks like it all fits reasonably.
HopefulFred is offline  
post #125 of 363 Old 07-06-2014, 08:18 AM
AVS Special Member
 
J_P_A's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: L.A. - Lower Alabama
Posts: 4,194
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 295 Post(s)
Liked: 276
What is the advantage to multiple drivers here? I'm a speaker design noob, so use small words, please

Dude, are you made of leprechauns? Cause that was awesome!

The Plains Theater Has Begun
J_P_A is offline  
post #126 of 363 Old 07-06-2014, 08:54 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Erich H's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Cincinnati OH
Posts: 5,712
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 553 Post(s)
Liked: 817
Smaller woofers aren't as deep so the box could be shallow, but you would need more of them.
Erich H is online now  
post #127 of 363 Old 07-06-2014, 09:13 AM
AVS Special Member
 
HopefulFred's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 2,986
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 230 Post(s)
Liked: 229
Quote:
Originally Posted by J_P_A View Post
What is the advantage to multiple drivers here?
Output mostly.
HopefulFred is offline  
post #128 of 363 Old 07-06-2014, 11:49 AM
AVS Special Member
 
DS-21's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 3,726
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 338 Post(s)
Liked: 270
Quote:
Originally Posted by Erich H View Post
Smaller woofers aren't as deep so the box could be shallow, but you would need more of them.
Then again, they're up against 1-3 walls so you get lots of boundary reinforcement. Note that the commercial "Atmos modules" tend to be small concentrics or just 3-4" widebanders. And they're out in the room, so don't have the boundary loading an on wall/on ceiling/junction/corner placement will give.

--
"In many cases there aren’t two sides unless one side is 'reality' and the other is 'nonsense.'" - Phil Plait
Serious Audio Blog 
Multichannel music (and video) urban loft living room system 
DS-21 is offline  
post #129 of 363 Old 07-06-2014, 12:17 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Erich H's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Cincinnati OH
Posts: 5,712
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 553 Post(s)
Liked: 817
So do you think the small 6" coaxials would be a good idea? They're about 4" - 4.5" deep and get quite loud for their size. If the boxes were made out of 1/2" Baltic they would be very light weight.
asarose247 likes this.
Erich H is online now  
post #130 of 363 Old 07-06-2014, 12:39 PM
Advanced Member
 
asarose247's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: SoCal
Posts: 601
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 105 Post(s)
Liked: 62
Yesterday Sanjay paid me a visit in Garden Grove.
We did a geometry lesson while we listened to some PF and in particular, the re-mixed Beatlles "Love' album in 5.1
Following his recommendation to move my surrounds to 90 wrt to MLP makes a big difference as opposed to 110 or so to the back.
Thanks
Using the diagrams posted a little back we figured out (for my listening/viewing area) that the 4 ceiling speakers will be 2 42" forward of the MLP and 2 the same distance behind and 42" to the left and right, essentially a 7 foot square of speakers aimed down, from the corners, in a "crossfire" MOL, across the MLP.
None of the placements wrt to locations of surrounds or rears puts anything too close to anything else so there is (hopefully) going to be enough "space" for the vectored ATMOS objects to take advantage of and fill the "spaciousness", because we're not getting a watered down consumer under powered chip ARE WE?????
My first choice was to use my "abundant" resources of 4 Klipsch SLX (1 made need a refurb-maybe-IDK) hung horizontally about 6-10 inches down from the ceiling, angled appropriately. I've had them as mains, with a sub, high fronts, surrounds, centers. they put out, usually with an 80 xo. The geometry of the 7 foot square measures 60 inches to the corners from the MLP , mol, and then there is the about 4 foot plus height above., so that makes me think that they are "not too" close. YMMV
One of my hanging methods is to use security camera mounting brackets, about <$25/pair and maybe some metal lumber to facilitate firmly attaching a speaker and getting the right orientation/articulation.
An alternative maybe be a setof KLH C-180B, I have 8 of those.
If i lay things out well enough, i can put almost anything "up there"
But for all the discussion about the ceiling, what can we expect to do about high fronts? are they just going to go away?

standing by . . .

Denon X5200 , Emotiva UPA7, for 7.3.4 ATMOS/DSU
Klipsch FL/FR: F3 , Center: Icon 25 , SL/SR: RC3II , SRL/SRR :Icon 36 Towers, TF & TR: SLX
FH :RB51's
2 30" BF THTLP'S and SUBMAXIMUS and Inuke6000DSP
SHARP 80" LED/LCD, Xbox1 PS4 Panny BD 220
asarose247 is online now  
post #131 of 363 Old 07-06-2014, 12:59 PM
Advanced Member
 
asarose247's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: SoCal
Posts: 601
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 105 Post(s)
Liked: 62
we also discussed 6 or 8 inch co-'ax's and auto speakers.
boxes could be built to provide slant and direction, be light weight etc.
so we know there is no "one" answer as each room and other factors will make a difference,
so for anyone in the LA area, you may want to get in on the Pioneer demo scheduled for alter this month, if only for experience and reference.

Denon X5200 , Emotiva UPA7, for 7.3.4 ATMOS/DSU
Klipsch FL/FR: F3 , Center: Icon 25 , SL/SR: RC3II , SRL/SRR :Icon 36 Towers, TF & TR: SLX
FH :RB51's
2 30" BF THTLP'S and SUBMAXIMUS and Inuke6000DSP
SHARP 80" LED/LCD, Xbox1 PS4 Panny BD 220
asarose247 is online now  
post #132 of 363 Old 07-06-2014, 03:26 PM - Thread Starter
HOME THEATER CONTRACTOR
 
BIGmouthinDC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 21,788
Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 700 Post(s)
Liked: 789
Quote:
Originally Posted by Erich H View Post
So do you think the small 6" coaxials would be a good idea? They're about 4" - 4.5" deep and get quite loud for their size. If the boxes were made out of 1/2" Baltic they would be very light weight.
The more I read on the subject the more I can appreciate the comment "All speakers should be timbre matched" I'm not certain we can just throw a speaker on the ceiling and call it a day, We may need to redesign all the speakers in the room to get them to "match"
BIGmouthinDC is online now  
post #133 of 363 Old 07-06-2014, 05:39 PM
AVS Special Member
 
doublewing11's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Timber Country!
Posts: 3,992
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 106 Post(s)
Liked: 351
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
The more I read on the subject the more I can appreciate the comment "All speakers should be timbre matched" I'm not certain we can just throw a speaker on the ceiling and call it a day, We may need to redesign all the speakers in the room to get them to "match"
I agree and am trying to avoid that. Triad is pretty confident they can timbre match my set up even if it has to be custom. Lots of speaker manufacturers are scrambling in preparation for this Atmos tidal wave. I'll know by next week outcome with Triad's attempt to communicate with Dolby gathering specific parameters for residential implementation.
doublewing11 is offline  
post #134 of 363 Old 07-06-2014, 08:55 PM
AVS Special Member
 
rabident's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2000
Posts: 2,064
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 56 Post(s)
Liked: 31
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tnedator View Post
EG doing the construction
Have you seen the price yet? Not the pre-sales price. The now that you've committed to our design and we've got you buy the balls price. Just asking

Quote:
Originally Posted by J_P_A View Post
At any rate, for Clips+Channel+DD ceiling, I can see it being an issue in retrofit. Particularly if you have anything else on the ceiling, and didn't use the 16"x48" clip spacing necessary for 3 layers of DW.
Most of us have a soffit running around the perimeter of the room. I assume that is fairly overbuilt and it's expected to be rigid (no spring). I was wondering if the ceiling speakers could be mounted on the vertical part of the soffit and fire down at angle, like the triad in ceilings (which are angled towards the LP). So the weight goes on the soffit. The soffit in turn distributes the load out to the wall & ceiling, but both have extra channel & clips for it.

I also wonder how extra speakers will effect the acoustic treatment plans everyone has, especially when firing from the ceiling towards the floor. The "ground" of a commercial theater is almost entirely covered by seating & ideally people. Both are fairly absorptive. For HT with less seating coverage, and possibly a granite bar top in back, I wonder if the radiation pattern will be important, or if there will be new treatments needed.

 

 

rabident is offline  
post #135 of 363 Old 07-07-2014, 06:36 AM
Advanced Member
 
Tnedator's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 779
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 198 Post(s)
Liked: 54
Quote:
Originally Posted by rabident View Post
Have you seen the price yet? Not the pre-sales price. The now that you've committed to our design and we've got you buy the balls price. Just asking
Yes, I went into it with my eyes open, both in terms of getting a plan that I could have constructed locally or using EG to build it. I wasn't one of the foolish few that thought they were getting the magic instructions on how to build a Mclarren out of VW bug parts using the secret kit car manual. Just saying.
SierraMikeBravo and BllDo like this.
Tnedator is offline  
post #136 of 363 Old 07-12-2014, 01:58 PM
AVS Special Member
 
HopefulFred's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 2,986
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 230 Post(s)
Liked: 229
I think I'm sticking with my initial reaction that a 6" or so ceiling mounted coax is the best option, but I've been pursuaded I think that Pioneer's ATMOS enabled speakers are a viable solution for a lot of users. Andrew Jones was very forthcoming in his interview with Scott Wilkinson in his podcast a few days ago. I you haven't watched it, I recommend it. It's full of technical details about Dolby's specs and the speaker's performance.

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/138-avs-forum-podcasts/1599993-dolby-atmos-comes-home.html

Last edited by HopefulFred; 07-12-2014 at 02:07 PM.
HopefulFred is offline  
post #137 of 363 Old 07-18-2014, 12:30 PM
AVS Addicted Member
 
Mfusick's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Western MA
Posts: 25,165
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 240 Post(s)
Liked: 1185
BigmoutinDC was going to post up a modified design for atmos request I think. (hint, hint)

-

"Too much is almost enough. Anything in life worth doing is worth overdoing. Moderation is for cowards."
Mfusick is online now  
post #138 of 363 Old 07-20-2014, 11:00 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Ericglo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Just below the US in South Florida
Posts: 6,355
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 146 Post(s)
Liked: 52
Hope,
That was an interesting interview. He did say that he preferred the top mounted speaker. Also, he seemed to imply that a coax would be superior in this config. I don't know AJ, so I can't tell if that was clever marketing on his part or his true belief. I guess I will get a full taste in two months at Cedia.

Call AVS For the Best Deals!!!


My new favorite game is Stop the Bots
Ericglo is offline  
post #139 of 363 Old 07-20-2014, 11:49 AM
AVS Addicted Member
 
Mfusick's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Western MA
Posts: 25,165
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 240 Post(s)
Liked: 1185
What is your signature about ? Is that a joke or real game ?

-

"Too much is almost enough. Anything in life worth doing is worth overdoing. Moderation is for cowards."
Mfusick is online now  
post #140 of 363 Old 07-20-2014, 12:39 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Ericglo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Just below the US in South Florida
Posts: 6,355
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 146 Post(s)
Liked: 52
It is a real game. My best friend did it on a whim and it ended up with about 5 million downloads.

http://www.scaryrobot.com/

Call AVS For the Best Deals!!!


My new favorite game is Stop the Bots
Ericglo is offline  
post #141 of 363 Old 07-21-2014, 05:55 PM - Thread Starter
HOME THEATER CONTRACTOR
 
BIGmouthinDC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 21,788
Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 700 Post(s)
Liked: 789
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mfusick View Post
BigmoutinDC was going to post up a modified design for atmos request I think. (hint, hint)

Yea I had a brainfart.

So after thinking more about this issue I reached the following conclusions

1) It may prove difficult to design a low profile speaker that can be timber matched with the other speakers in the system. Therefore an in-ceiling speaker is probably the best strategy and then replicated for other positions.

2) Assuming the ceiling is double drywall hung on clips and channel or separate floating joists cutting that big of a hole requires something that is a good "plug"

2) Using the principles of Damped mass for the plug. Take a speaker like the Volt coax or newer upgrades. Add damped mass to the sides and rear, a layer of 5/8 Drywall with Green Glue. Then substitute a modified front baffle with a one inch overhang on all four sides.

3) Glue/Screw/Caulk the speaker into place on the ceiling. If you doubt the holding power of your screws you can secure some backer strips of wood on the backside of the hole when it is open and then screw through the drywall into the wood.

4) Crossover modification might be required for the in ceiling location.

5) Make a frame slightly larger than the front baffle and cover with acoustically transparent fabric and mount it on the ceiling The final result is something an inch or less on the ceiling.

6) Then use the same speaker for the surrounds and maybe even the mains.
BIGmouthinDC is online now  
post #142 of 363 Old 07-21-2014, 05:58 PM
Senior Member
 
ClemsonJeeper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Ashburn, VA
Posts: 485
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 128 Post(s)
Liked: 50
Aren't people saying that atmos ceiling speakers are somewhat directional?

So that we might need some way to angle the speakers toward the LP? (Eg how the volt 10 angled enclosures are)
ClemsonJeeper is online now  
post #143 of 363 Old 07-22-2014, 10:18 AM
AVS Addicted Member
 
Mfusick's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Western MA
Posts: 25,165
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 240 Post(s)
Liked: 1185
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
Yea I had a brainfart.

So after thinking more about this issue I reached the following conclusions

1) It may prove difficult to design a low profile speaker that can be timber matched with the other speakers in the system. Therefore an in-ceiling speaker is probably the best strategy and then replicated for other positions.

2) Assuming the ceiling is double drywall hung on clips and channel or separate floating joists cutting that big of a hole requires something that is a good "plug"

2) Using the principles of Damped mass for the plug. Take a speaker like the Volt coax or newer upgrades. Add damped mass to the sides and rear, a layer of 5/8 Drywall with Green Glue. Then substitute a modified front baffle with a one inch overhang on all four sides.

3) Glue/Screw/Caulk the speaker into place on the ceiling. If you doubt the holding power of your screws you can secure some backer strips of wood on the backside of the hole when it is open and then screw through the drywall into the wood.

4) Crossover modification might be required for the in ceiling location.

5) Make a frame slightly larger than the front baffle and cover with acoustically transparent fabric and mount it on the ceiling The final result is something an inch or less on the ceiling.

6) Then use the same speaker for the surrounds and maybe even the mains.

yeah this is a good idea. Like a ceiling style backer box. I guess if you took any existing design and used some GG and another layer of MDF of sheetrock on the outside of the box and designed the baffle to hang over at least 1" in all directions you could cut a hole and mount it up in the the hole you cut. You could even do two layers + double GG if you wanted extra, just the hole and baffle would be bigger.

The crossover mods I am not sure about. Perhaps just a tad of EQ if you are not changing the box it shouldn't be too extreme, it would be like mounting the LCR in a baffle wall I'd assume except the baffle is the ceiling in this case. Designs that work in baffle walls probably would work in this scenario, and likewise speakers that suck in baffle walls for whatever reason would not be a good choice.

Going this route also alleviates the depth problem since you have some extra depth to work with. But it might need to fit between joists so width could be a concern. I think you could fit a FUSION8 or a MINION6 into this config but the sweet spot of the waveguide is probably too small unless it's a high ceiling.

Makes me think of Tux's in wall speakers a little.

I don't know enough about ATMOS to know if the wide dispersion of a coaxial would be a good thing or not. It might be.

Tux has this: (stole pic from 1099 design thread, ignore the 1099 protype...lol )




Like this:

Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	940af7c6_TMWtux10-97_zps98c73cb9.jpeg
Views:	360
Size:	18.9 KB
ID:	174466  

-

"Too much is almost enough. Anything in life worth doing is worth overdoing. Moderation is for cowards."
Mfusick is online now  
post #144 of 363 Old 07-22-2014, 10:57 AM
AVS Special Member
 
J_P_A's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: L.A. - Lower Alabama
Posts: 4,194
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 295 Post(s)
Liked: 276
I think the crossover modifications for this design would be minimal as well. I think the original idea was to add another layer on the front of the baffle, which I think would have caused more issue. Although, if a coaxial is being used, that may not be the case. I don't know much about it, but I think mounting the speaker baffle flush with the ceiling is a good idea.

Dude, are you made of leprechauns? Cause that was awesome!

The Plains Theater Has Begun
J_P_A is offline  
post #145 of 363 Old 07-22-2014, 04:33 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Erich H's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Cincinnati OH
Posts: 5,712
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 553 Post(s)
Liked: 817
Do these speakers need to play strong at 80hz, or would 90-100hz be okay?
Erich H is online now  
post #146 of 363 Old 07-22-2014, 04:51 PM
AVS Addicted Member
 
Mfusick's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Western MA
Posts: 25,165
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 240 Post(s)
Liked: 1185
Quote:
Originally Posted by Erich H View Post
Do these speakers need to play strong at 80hz, or would 90-100hz be okay?
I don't imagine those 20hz would matter much. Why do you ask ?

-

"Too much is almost enough. Anything in life worth doing is worth overdoing. Moderation is for cowards."
Mfusick is online now  
post #147 of 363 Old 07-22-2014, 05:03 PM
AVS Special Member
 
HopefulFred's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 2,986
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 230 Post(s)
Liked: 229
I think pioneer's "ATMOS enabled" units cross at something like 150-200, but I would personally give up 3-5dB sensitivity for an 80Hz XO.
Mfusick likes this.
HopefulFred is offline  
post #148 of 363 Old 07-22-2014, 05:27 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Erich H's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Cincinnati OH
Posts: 5,712
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 553 Post(s)
Liked: 817
Some of the coaxials can be put in a smaller enclosure if they didn't need to get around 80hz.

I think if we had some guidelines on what enclosure sizes work for most people that might help narrow ideas down a bit.

How loud do they need to be and what kind of power handling?
Erich H is online now  
post #149 of 363 Old 07-22-2014, 05:54 PM
AVS Special Member
 
J_P_A's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: L.A. - Lower Alabama
Posts: 4,194
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 295 Post(s)
Liked: 276
The depth depends on whether the plan is for on-ceiling or in-ceiling installation. I'd rather not cut holes in my ceiling. So as shallow as possible would be my answer.

maybe the other way to approach it is how shallow can the enclosure reasonably be?

Dude, are you made of leprechauns? Cause that was awesome!

The Plains Theater Has Begun
J_P_A is offline  
post #150 of 363 Old 07-22-2014, 05:58 PM
AVS Special Member
 
HopefulFred's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 2,986
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 230 Post(s)
Liked: 229
I agree - can we flip the question? The depth issue is very real, and I know I would be reluctant to hang anything deeper than 6-8 inches from my ceiling. What would I have to give up in extension and/or sensitivity to get there?
HopefulFred is offline  
Reply DIY Speakers and Subs

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off