Will any of the flared port options work with standard abs or PVC? - AVS Forum
DIY Speakers and Subs > Will any of the flared port options work with standard abs or PVC?
Samps's Avatar Samps 03:38 PM 06-23-2014
Will any of the flared port options work with standard abs or PVC?

3 inch preferred but I could make 4 inch work.

If not, what is the best way to attach abs or PVC pipe to mdf? If I cut the hole a little tight would pressure fitting be enough?

manuetdeo's Avatar manuetdeo 04:03 PM 06-23-2014
cut a hole that is barely bigger that OD of pipe in a piece of mdf one inch-two inches square larger than pipe diameter. then glue pipe to piece. then glue this piece to wherever you want hole for port after you cut out said hole. then use round over bit to get flare. hope I explained it right
Samps's Avatar Samps 04:11 PM 06-23-2014
If I understand that method correctly how much additional length does the added mdf with roundover add?
manuetdeo's Avatar manuetdeo 05:24 PM 06-23-2014
Quote:
Originally Posted by Samps View Post
If I understand that method correctly how much additional length does the added mdf with roundover add?
if i remember correctly the thickness of 3/4 mdf models pretty close in winisd to the flare it shows, i could be and am frequently wrong- so i hope someone who knows for sure will be along and answer for you.
Samps's Avatar Samps 05:40 PM 06-23-2014
Thanks. If it's close to the winisd model it should work fine. Off by 1db either way won't hurt.
wvu80's Avatar wvu80 08:28 PM 06-24-2014
Is there any reason you wouldn't simply buy a flared port? They look relatively inexpensive.

http://www.parts-express.com/cat/speaker-port-tubes/320
Samps's Avatar Samps 08:51 PM 06-24-2014
Quote:
Originally Posted by wvu80 View Post
Is there any reason you wouldn't simply buy a flared port? They look relatively inexpensive.

http://www.parts-express.com/cat/speaker-port-tubes/320
I need 3 ports and the prefab ones would cost too much to be worth it. I'm either making my own or going with the slot port. The slot port is looking better the more I read. Cramming 3 ports into a medium size box is presenting a number of problems. If I could get away with 2 it would work better but then they become too long and creat new problems.
wvu80's Avatar wvu80 09:06 PM 06-24-2014
Quote:
Originally Posted by Samps View Post
I need 3 ports and the prefab ones would cost too much to be worth it. I'm either making my own or going with the slot port. The slot port is looking better the more I read. Cramming 3 ports into a medium size box is presenting a number of problems. If I could get away with 2 it would work better but then they become too long and creat new problems.
The Fusion 12 Tempest uses those slot ports and they are listed at $13 for three.
http://www.diysoundgroup.com/wavegui...ion12-kit.html

I think you should use them, because I have them and they look cool.
http://www.diysoundgroup.com/wavegui...ion12-kit.html


Attached: Fusion 10 Pures and Dayton Audio UA721 center.JPG (44.4 KB) 
Bud Heavy's Avatar Bud Heavy 10:47 AM 06-25-2014
Quote:
Originally Posted by wvu80 View Post
The Fusion 12 Tempest uses those slot ports and they are listed at $13 for three.
http://www.diysoundgroup.com/wavegui...ion12-kit.html

I think you should use them, because I have them and they look cool.
http://www.diysoundgroup.com/wavegui...ion12-kit.html

Do you mean Fusion 10's use slot ports? Tempest use round ports.
Bud Heavy's Avatar Bud Heavy 11:19 AM 06-25-2014
I plan on building a set of Dayton UM-18's whenever they finally come in. Box design calls for 2 - 4" ID ports by 19.84". A comment was made on PE that this 4" flared port will fit inside a pvc pipe - Part # 260-403. I haven't ordered them yet, but I am getting ready to and hopefully they will fit inside a pvc pipe which is much cheaper than buying that long of a port tube from PE. Another option is to make the flare on the end of a pvc pipe yourself. I saw a pretty good youtube video of this. Just heat the end of pvc until it is pliable and shape it over a bowl.

In my past subwoofer builds I have always mounted the flare on the inside of the cabinet, I like the look better. Cut your hole to match the flare, roundover on the outside, rabbet on the inside so the rim sits in the rabbet and PL glue it up really good.
Samps's Avatar Samps 11:27 AM 06-25-2014
Let us know if that flare fits the PVC. I actually have that flare using the kit in one of my subs right now but it is glued in place. I wish I would have tested it before I glued it. The flare is a little brittle. I tried using gasket tape under it a when I screwed it down one of the screw holes cracked. So be careful how tight you make the screws.
djarchow's Avatar djarchow 12:00 PM 06-25-2014
I like the Precision Ports. They are cheaper than Dayton flared ports where you have to buy the individual parts. Thinwall DVW PVC pipe connectors fit the 4" Precision Port flares very well. I use that for elbows. It is a bit loose for the straight Precision Port tubes but a strip of duct tape around the tube makes for a snug fit.
Bud Heavy's Avatar Bud Heavy 12:20 PM 06-25-2014
Quote:
Originally Posted by djarchow View Post
I like the Precision Ports. They are cheaper than Dayton flared ports where you have to buy the individual parts. Thinwall DVW PVC pipe connectors fit the 4" Precision Port flares very well. I use that for elbows. It is a bit loose for the straight Precision Port tubes but a strip of duct tape around the tube makes for a snug fit.
Do you need the connector ring to attach the flare port and pvc?
djarchow's Avatar djarchow 12:24 PM 06-25-2014
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bud Heavy View Post
Do you need the connector ring to attach the flare port and pvc?
I didn't use the straight PVC. I was using the elbows since Precision Port doesn't make elbows. The 4" flairs fit tightly in the elbow. You have to use the DVW pipe though, regular schedule 40 doesn't work.
Bud Heavy's Avatar Bud Heavy 01:30 PM 08-22-2014
Update on PE's 4" flared port #260-403 . They fit 4 inch drainage(sewer, thin walled, SDR35) pipe which isn't your more commonly available pvc(schedule 40). Couldn't find it at home depot but Menards and Lowe's ONLY had it in 10' lengths with one belled end($12) . The port slides right into the belled end, but you need a coupler($1.19) if you want to join it to a non-belled end. If you had SDR41 pipe you may not need a coupler. They do have fins around the pipe at the flare which I have read people were able to break/cut off. I plan on mounting these inside my cabinet so it's a non-issue for me.

Now my UM-18's are hanging out with some 4" pipe just waiting for there new 12 ft^3 homes to be built.
corndogggy's Avatar corndogggy 01:43 PM 08-22-2014
Quote:
Originally Posted by wvu80 View Post
Is there any reason you wouldn't simply buy a flared port? They look relatively inexpensive.

http://www.parts-express.com/cat/speaker-port-tubes/320
Do a calculation for two 18" UltiMax subs at the recommended setup of three 4" ports that are 28" long, and do it at a right angle. The end result is about $400 after shipping.
Attached: dayton.JPG (127.1 KB) 
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