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post #1 of 10 Old 06-26-2014, 12:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Planning a tempest build

I finished my first DIY build a couple weeks ago (sealed 15" Dayton HF) and I'm already looking into my next one. I'm 99% settled on the tempests to replace my Monitor 70s. I was originally going to go with a duratex finish this time but I've seen a few piano black builds and I really love the look. Is there a good guide on here or somewhere else that has the entire step-by-step process of achieving this finish? And what specific products will I need?
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post #2 of 10 Old 06-26-2014, 12:52 PM
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http://www.htguide.com/forum/showthr...lt-on-SQ&pp=35

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post #3 of 10 Old 06-26-2014, 12:53 PM
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there are also some youtubes on hand finishing 2 part clear.


search around on 2k High Gloss Clearcoat. that should pull up some stuff.

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post #4 of 10 Old 06-26-2014, 01:35 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post
there are also some youtubes on hand finishing 2 part clear.


search around on 2k High Gloss Clearcoat. that should pull up some stuff.
Thanks. Here's my list of things to buy so far:
primer (any particular kind that I need?)
high gloss paint (any recommendations?)
sand paper (I'm gonna get one of the abalon try-me packs)
2k high gloss clearcoat

I'm going to be covering two tempests and two of these stands (~20in tall). About how many cans of clearcoat will I need?
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post #5 of 10 Old 06-26-2014, 02:05 PM
 
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Unfortunately all the products he used are illegal now and aren't sold

I'm doing a sub and two tempests piano black right now. I did a piano black Fusion 8 MTM last summer, it turned out quite well, EXCEPT the seams are visible. I blame the wood filler. I am using Bondo now, and I can tell it is much better.

You can look at my threads in my signature I have quite a bit of info in them on piano black, to put it short:

you need a PERFECTLY smooth box with ZERO seams. Bondo is great at this. Sand bondo with 80 grit then 220 before paint.

The urethane 2k primer I used is AWESOME it is way way better than zinsser bin that gets recommended a lot. You need a HVLP and compressor and spray mask etc. etc. though.

I'm using all car products bought from an auto paint store.

After paint and everything, to get the final "mirror" look you need to buff the paint with rubbing compound and polishing compound to get the shine. Piano black is not easy or quick, it takes many hours, probably 50+. Duratex takes like 3 hours maybe. Piano black looks amazing though .
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post #6 of 10 Old 06-26-2014, 02:30 PM
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"Unfortunately all the products he used are illegal now and aren't sold"


shucks...good to know.

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post #7 of 10 Old 06-26-2014, 05:51 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by JWagstaff View Post
Unfortunately all the products he used are illegal now and aren't sold

I'm doing a sub and two tempests piano black right now. I did a piano black Fusion 8 MTM last summer, it turned out quite well, EXCEPT the seams are visible. I blame the wood filler. I am using Bondo now, and I can tell it is much better.

You can look at my threads in my signature I have quite a bit of info in them on piano black, to put it short:

you need a PERFECTLY smooth box with ZERO seams. Bondo is great at this. Sand bondo with 80 grit then 220 before paint.

The urethane 2k primer I used is AWESOME it is way way better than zinsser bin that gets recommended a lot. You need a HVLP and compressor and spray mask etc. etc. though.

I'm using all car products bought from an auto paint store.

After paint and everything, to get the final "mirror" look you need to buff the paint with rubbing compound and polishing compound to get the shine. Piano black is not easy or quick, it takes many hours, probably 50+. Duratex takes like 3 hours maybe. Piano black looks amazing though .
Are there any roll or brush on primers you recommend?
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post #8 of 10 Old 06-27-2014, 06:27 AM
 
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Are there any roll or brush on primers you recommend?
I know the stuff I used can be rolled or sprayed. Go to an automotive supply store and check out their paints, it will say on the can if it's rollable. I used transtar Euro 2 part primer black. I don't think you can roll on the topcoat though.

I've heard zinsser bin then benjamin moore satin impervo black then a high gloss clear coat is good. I haven't tried this yet, but I'm going to paint my stands with zinsser bin then benjamin moore satin impervo black. No high gloss on the stands though. I'll see how it goes, as last time I used zinsser I wasn't impressed with it.

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post #9 of 10 Old 06-27-2014, 12:28 PM - Thread Starter
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Here is what I have so far. Let me know how/if the process should be altered.

Primer: Zinsser bin (should I have them tint it black or leave it white?)
Sandpaper: generic for the course stuff, abralon for the fine stuff
paint: is that benjamin moore moulding paint that much better than something like this? http://www.homedepot.com/p/BEHR-Prem...z10m0wZ1z1409i
clear coat: 2k high gloss clear coat aerosol
polish: Zaino Z-2 PRO Show Car Polish for Clear Coated Car Finishes

1. 90 grit sand. Bondo seams. 90 grit sand.
2. Prime. 90 grit sand. Prime. 120 grit sand. Prime. 180 grit sand.
3. Paint. 500 grit sand. Paint. 1000 grit sand. Paint. 2000 grit wet sand. Paint. 4000 grit wet sand. (end with paint or sand?)
4. Clear coat. (no sanding?)
5. Zaino polish
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post #10 of 10 Old 06-27-2014, 01:53 PM - Thread Starter
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Well I just showed my gf pics of a piano black finish and a duratex finish and asked which one she'd rather have in our living room and she chose duratex lol. Thanks for all the help anyways. I'll use this thread as a reference for when I move to a bigger place and build a pair of piano black statements for a separate 2 channel music build.

I'll update this thread in 3-4 weeks when I start the tempest build
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