Soundemons SEOS Fusion 12 Tempest LCR build thread - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 18 Old 07-02-2014, 09:32 AM - Thread Starter
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Soundemons SEOS Fusion 12 Tempest LCR build thread

I'm starting a build currently for an LCR of SEOS Fusion 12 tempest. I've got all the parts currently just waiting on the binding posts and plates.


I'm actually going to update this one while in process, rather than finishing and posting everything after the fact.

The MDF has been cut and I've got the baffles glued up awaiting trim off. (pix to come)


My first question is about box stuffing / box lining. what have others done here? I just cant bear the thought of having bare walls in there!

I think we're the demons.
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post #2 of 18 Old 07-02-2014, 09:32 AM - Thread Starter
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post #3 of 18 Old 07-02-2014, 09:32 AM - Thread Starter
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post #4 of 18 Old 07-02-2014, 04:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soundemon View Post
My first question is about box stuffing / box lining. what have others done here? I just cant bear the thought of having bare walls in there!
You don't need stuffing, just damping material.

I used pink fluffy fiberglass in my Tempest LCR. It's cheap and works well. I just used gloves when gluing them down with spray-on glue.
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post #5 of 18 Old 07-02-2014, 06:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Audio Geek View Post
You don't need stuffing, just damping material.

I used pink fluffy fiberglass in my Tempest LCR. It's cheap and works well. I just used gloves when gluing them down with spray-on glue.
How thick is the fiberglass you were used to line your Tempests internal wall?
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post #6 of 18 Old 07-02-2014, 06:20 PM
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Originally Posted by WereWolf84 View Post
How thick is the fiberglass you were used to line your Tempests internal wall?
2 inches thick. I got a thicker roll (I forgot the R value) and pulled it apart. And used a throwaway pair of scissors from HF to trim it.
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post #7 of 18 Old 07-03-2014, 04:12 AM
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I used the Ultratouch denim insulation on a recent project. Much more expensive than fiberglass but that's only a few $ on a pair of speakers. One roll per cabinet should do it.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/UltraTouc...6482/202709974

Good luck and rock on!
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post #8 of 18 Old 07-03-2014, 06:15 AM
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I built 3 Fusion 12 Tempests for my HT LCR. Details in my build thread.

The Vortex Theater Build

About halfway down.

I used 1.5" acoustic egg crate foam glued in with spray adhesive.

My Home Theater Build: The Vortex Theater Build
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post #9 of 18 Old 07-03-2014, 06:33 AM
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post some pics! What finish are you doing on them? Fiberglass/insulation is the best for speaker lining. I'm using Roxul safe'n'sound. It's not as easy to work with as foam or other "safer/nicer" materials but it has the best damping coefficients by far. Just glue it in with spray adhesive and I'm covering it with cheap speaker grill cloth.
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post #10 of 18 Old 07-04-2014, 08:05 AM - Thread Starter
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Some initial pix: all table saw cuts are now done, baffles glued and routed for size


I included my sketch of my cutsheet to show how easily 3 speakers fit into 2 4x8 pieces of MDF. I had the guy at home depot cut 2 28" lengths off one piece and 2 26" pieces off the other one. then all the pieces fit with reasonable ease into the back seat of my Altima. (not a huge car) all pieces layed out on the cutsheet are oversized to allow room for error.


the baffles needed to be doubled up. I cut these pieces a little oversized on purpose, and made rough cuts with a jig saw for the cutouts, so the router didn't have to work as hard, and makes (a little) less dust.


the braces I had planned to cut them out rough with jig saw and then finish with router but quickly realized this was overkill. I just drilled out each corner and jigsaw'd the rest. the finish was no where near as rough as I had expected.


Box assembly is up next. Finish will be walnut veneer
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post #11 of 18 Old 07-10-2014, 01:43 PM - Thread Starter
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Some decent progress to date. driver and wave guide inserts ... inserted.
osed screw ins for the woofer, and tap ins for the wave guide. but I don't tap them in with a hammer, they deform too easily. Instead, I draw them in with a screw and a washer from the opposite side:
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post #12 of 18 Old 07-10-2014, 01:49 PM - Thread Starter
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Scalloped the back of the woofer cuttouts to let the woofers breathe a little easier.
proceeded to get the boxes started, one panel at a time for the first one, then realized that was ridiculous so did all 4 at once for the second one:
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post #13 of 18 Old 07-10-2014, 01:57 PM - Thread Starter
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Did a mock-up to make sure my bracing didn't interfere with anything. Also a shot of how I layed out the back panel. Everything from the back is glued and screwed. everything else just glued. this keeps things nice and straight and parallel. I drilled the back on the drill press, and then clamp and ensure everything is lined up perfect, and then drill thru pilot holes into the lateral pieces.
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post #14 of 18 Old 07-21-2014, 04:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Crossovers done and ready to go into the box. I tried something different this time, soldering speaker cable directly on to the crossovers. this just eliminates a screwdown or crimp-on junction. Its a bit of a pain because the joints with the speaker wire take a looong time to get hot enough to flow solder. I just played games on my ipod while I waited...
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post #15 of 18 Old 07-21-2014, 04:33 PM
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i think so, this just eliminates a screwdown or crimp-on junction. Its a bit of a pain because the joints with the speaker wire take a looong time to get hot enough to flow solder.thank you
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post #16 of 18 Old 07-22-2014, 06:13 AM
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I do the same thing for my crossovers, if you have a powerful iron it just takes a second to heat up. Even with cheaper irons - make sure you melt some solder on the tip and then use the liquid solder to help transfer the heat to the wire, it shouldn't take that long, definitely not long enough to play a game while waiting! haha
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post #17 of 18 Old 07-25-2014, 09:03 AM - Thread Starter
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Got the cabinets all lined and crossovers installed. Found a great deal on some 1.5" eggcrate acoustic foam so lined with that:
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post #18 of 18 Old 07-25-2014, 09:08 AM - Thread Starter
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Particularly when using dark components and finishing in a dark finish, I hate that little peek of MDF yellow you can see at certain angles from the sidewalls of the mounting holes. So I spray these black, and masked off so there aren't heavy black areas where I'm trying to veneer
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