Soundemons Gjallarhorn 2 build thread - Page 2 - AVS Forum
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post #31 of 140 Old 08-27-2014, 08:25 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lukeamdman View Post
If I wanted a 34.7 degree cut, here's what I would do:



I wish it were that simple. that leaves you with a cut which is 34.7 degrees vs your fence I need 34.7 vs the table, which is 55.3 vs the fence
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post #32 of 140 Old 08-27-2014, 08:28 AM - Thread Starter
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you start with the blade straight. this is 0 vs fence and 90 vs table. you start to add angle, which is now 10, 20, 30 etc, vs the fence. up to a maximum of 45. but I need 55.3 vs the fence.


I still cant think of anything but running the piece vertically thru the saw

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Last edited by soundemon; 08-27-2014 at 08:30 AM. Reason: add data
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post #33 of 140 Old 08-27-2014, 08:35 AM
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I'll let someone smarter than I take a crack at this.

I measure 34.7 degrees, from the table, how I have it in my pictures above.
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post #34 of 140 Old 08-27-2014, 08:45 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lukeamdman View Post
I'll let someone smarter than I take a crack at this.

I measure 34.7 degrees, from the table, how I have it in my pictures above.
I appreciate the help thus far! Luke if your near your saw, and have a piece of scrap wood, see if you can get an angle like the one called for in the diagram? I think you'll find you cannot with the work piece laying flat.

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post #35 of 140 Old 08-27-2014, 08:51 AM
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worst picture ever but...



I think you do what luke's picture shows, but instead of that 34.7 degree angle he has set, you set it for -34.7 and then cut it, which should give you a 55.3 degree angle that you want

so you'd basically be cutting the angle upside down
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post #36 of 140 Old 08-27-2014, 09:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bassment View Post
worst picture ever but...



I think you do what luke's picture shows, but instead of that 34.7 degree angle he has set, you set it for -34.7 and then cut it, which should give you a 55.3 degree angle that you want

so you'd basically be cutting the angle upside down
that doesnt work he has to cut it with the board verticle wheni built mine i just cut 2 45s then just used a big bead of pl and added another strip of wood to the inside so its very solid and looks all lined up.
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post #37 of 140 Old 08-27-2014, 09:27 AM
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I believe soundemon and cookieattk are correct. The angle is backwards regardless of which side you cut it from on the saw. I had to draw it out to see it.

EDIT: Remember alternate interior angles are the same, so the angle on the cutoff is also 55.3 degrees.



You can either cut it vertically or with a miter sled, but either way I think you'll be building a jig to do it. I wonder if the panel saw down at HD and Lowes will cut angles? Might be worth the few dollars if it will.

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post #38 of 140 Old 08-27-2014, 09:30 AM
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ah ok, wasn't sure what the application was, I was just going off of luke's picture
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post #39 of 140 Old 08-27-2014, 03:40 PM
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I'll be cutting 45 degrees in my horn builds. PL will do the rest.
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post #40 of 140 Old 08-27-2014, 05:31 PM
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Soundemons Gjallarhorn 2 build thread

I cut a strip of wood to put next to the fence that the working piece slid across to make the steep angle. Once the angle was cut, I removed the strip, put the angle-cut edge against the fence and cut it to length.


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post #41 of 140 Old 09-01-2014, 09:27 AM - Thread Starter
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There were only 2 cuts calling for this aggressive angle, so I ended up cheating a bit.
I set up the saw to 45 degrees to cut off the bulk of the trim. Then set the saw up for the 34.7, set up the rail and a feather board really aggressively, and ran the workpiece against the rail instead of against the table.
this is actually a somewhat irresponsible and dangerous way to use a tablesaw so I cant recommend others do it this way. but I just couldn't continue until I got the angles properly.

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Last edited by soundemon; 09-01-2014 at 09:28 AM. Reason: add picture
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post #42 of 140 Old 09-01-2014, 09:31 AM - Thread Starter
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All cuts are now done except for the access hatches, and the cut-out to mount the driver. Heres one of the first few pieces placed and lots of drawings in place, basically me trying to wrap my head around the assembly

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post #43 of 140 Old 09-01-2014, 09:33 AM - Thread Starter
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I've just finally finished up my tempest 12 Fusion build, so now I can devote my full attention to the mighty Ghorn2!

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post #44 of 140 Old 09-01-2014, 09:57 AM
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Good work man! The finished speakers look great.

Your table saw pictures made my skin crawl though. Scary indeed!

MKtheater -"I just saw 300 tonight, great movie. I literally wanted to spear people after the show."

My speaker build. "PROJECT OVERKILL" WWMTMSS
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post #45 of 140 Old 09-01-2014, 03:13 PM - Thread Starter
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Put everything together "dry fit" to make sure all the cuts were correct, and everything lined up, I hadn't missed anything.
everything looks great, so I'll strip it all down, complete the access hatches and the hole to mount the driver, and start laying down PL!

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post #46 of 140 Old 09-01-2014, 03:13 PM - Thread Starter
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post #47 of 140 Old 09-01-2014, 03:42 PM
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I like it

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"Too much is almost enough. Anything in life worth doing is worth overdoing. Moderation is for cowards."
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post #48 of 140 Old 09-01-2014, 04:02 PM
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Have fun with the bracing
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post #49 of 140 Old 09-01-2014, 04:46 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lukeamdman View Post
Have fun with the bracing
thanks!
actually all the bracing is in the box currently, it helped with the layout. its sitting at the bottom instead of halfway up

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post #50 of 140 Old 09-01-2014, 04:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soundemon View Post
thanks!
actually all the bracing is in the box currently, it helped with the layout. its sitting at the bottom instead of halfway up
You're only doing one brace down the center?
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post #51 of 140 Old 09-01-2014, 05:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lukeamdman View Post
You're only doing one brace down the center?
yup, that's all that's called out for in the design. It would be no difficulty to double up on the braces 1/3 and 1/3, but I'm not sure its nessesary

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post #52 of 140 Old 09-01-2014, 07:33 PM
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I would double up on bracing if it were mine. For me anything that spans more than 10" needs a brace. SO 24" I would use a pair. BUT thats just me.
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post #53 of 140 Old 09-02-2014, 12:49 AM
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Agreed. Doesn't have to be super-thick bracing, either.

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post #54 of 140 Old 09-02-2014, 05:46 AM
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Any resonance or vibration on the finished cabinet is lost output and energy. Brace the shiit out of it.
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post #55 of 140 Old 09-02-2014, 07:52 AM
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post #56 of 140 Old 09-02-2014, 09:26 AM - Thread Starter
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I'm convinced! I'll definitely double up on the bracing. I bet I have just enough off-cut to get the job done so that works out nicely.
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post #57 of 140 Old 09-03-2014, 06:32 AM
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Bravo!

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post #58 of 140 Old 09-16-2014, 07:28 AM - Thread Starter
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Finally some more progress! IT seems like I never have any time to work on this baby. Got the access hatches all cut out and routed for fit:

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post #59 of 140 Old 09-16-2014, 07:32 AM - Thread Starter
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And Installed the T-nuts

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post #60 of 140 Old 09-16-2014, 07:38 AM - Thread Starter
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Next step is the big one, start gluing panels. First off, the Kreg jig is fantastic, it makes the whole process way easier.
I started with the 2 outside panels, which are the trickiest, as they wander around on the PL when you try to screw them down. Got them set pretty nicely tho.


I'm trying to approach this logically, and in a step-by-step way. In a build like this, with angular bracing, everything effects everything else. that is, if a brace is too far backwards or forwards, it will throw the whole thing off.
the first set of braces mate up with 2 surfaces, so this one is easy and a good starting point. (Also pictured is a jig I made up to assist in positioning of the braces, height and parallelism)

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