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Old 07-04-2014, 04:07 PM - Thread Starter
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My winisd computer is at the office so I can't model this weekend. The UXL seems to be the ticket so far except those drivers take forever to get.
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Old 07-04-2014, 10:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post
I built a 30cuft box for a 21" ftw tuned at 13hz. With 2200 watts from inuke it has crazy output.

Do you have more details on this box? I have 4 ftw21's that I have been trying to pick a box for.
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Old 07-04-2014, 10:20 PM
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Ahhhh.... interesting. I think this is the longest you have gone with a particular setup. Past due for some change.


Considering everything you have said that you want out of this.... I'd get two UXL's (or equivalent) and use a resonant alignment of sorts. Or KISS and go sealed. A Cap-clone would be your best bet. Medium-ish size and output aplenty.

EDIT:

Just a sample to give you an idea. One UXL (T/S from D-B) in 6cuft 20hz tune 1,600w input. Lots of Xmax to spare.


My Dual 18" LLT subs 120dB down to 10hz

 

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Last edited by Scott Simonian; 07-04-2014 at 10:25 PM.
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Old 07-04-2014, 10:24 PM
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2' wide by 4' high by 4' long. 6" high port going 38" back. Don't have the graph anymore but it was like 122 dB's from 15 hz and up, topping out at 125dbs. Tuning was 13 hz.
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Old 07-04-2014, 10:42 PM
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Big Marty box.
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Old 07-05-2014, 06:27 AM
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Seems like port length would need be longer for that tune ...?

I did a 42" x24" x24" and port length was like 60" for 20hz.

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Old 07-05-2014, 08:49 AM
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Love it MK! Subscribed.

This setup works very well in my room with low tuned subs nearfield. Add that to what you already have, and your HT will be even more frightening than it is!!
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Old 07-05-2014, 09:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post
2' wide by 4' high by 4' long. 6" high port going 38" back. Don't have the graph anymore but it was like 122 dB's from 15 hz and up, topping out at 125dbs. Tuning was 13 hz.

Is this for a FTW21?
Holy smokes that's BIG!

My Build Thread
Equipment Speakers:
3x 1099's for LCR duty
4x Fusion 8's for surround duty
8x subs: 4x FTW21's and 4x SI18's
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Old 07-05-2014, 09:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mfusick View Post
Seems like port length would need be longer for that tune ...?

I did a 42" x24" x24" and port length was like 60" for 20hz.
Yours is almost identical to minimarty and mini has 17hz and 38" port. I will double check the drawing but I know its pretty close to 38".
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Old 07-05-2014, 09:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fatshaft View Post
Is this for a FTW21?
Holy smokes that's BIG!
Yes
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Old 07-05-2014, 10:07 AM
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Mfusick,
You were partially right. Bigger then 38". It is 44".
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Old 07-05-2014, 12:21 PM - Thread Starter
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How about a 15 cubed box with the hole on the 21 inch side? The port would be 68 inches and 8 inches round or however you figure the slot port. 3x12 would be 48 inches long for 11hz tune as well. This is for the UXL. 113 dBs at 10hz.
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Old 07-06-2014, 05:53 PM
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Old 07-06-2014, 05:55 PM - Thread Starter
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Yes
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Old 07-06-2014, 06:23 PM
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I'd highly recommend starting with the rear subs first...and then if not enough, port your IB.

My guess would be that the rear ported subs nearfield would do it for you...

Porting your IB may get you the same output at 5hz as with sealed, but it will be more difficult to get to as you might run into bottoming out problems trying to eq that low with the ported design...
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Old 07-06-2014, 06:49 PM - Thread Starter
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I don't EQ below 10hz, that is all room. I could always turn my sealed up as well for the same effect. I don't need to add anything, just need rear stands for my surrounds and figured why not add sub for the heck of it. If I add 11 hz tuned ported subs to surrounds then it makes sense to have 11 hz tuned front so everything blends easily.
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Old 07-06-2014, 07:27 PM
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Definitely don't need anything from an SPL or pressure perspective!

I do think some adding some near field ported subs will up your "tactile feedback" HT experience that much more though!

I sit on concrete as well (no riser), and while I don't have as much pressure sensation as you, the tactile feedback I get from my near field ported subs and my HT seating is brutal. If I could add your pressure, to my tactile feedback, it would be nirvana. That's why I'm pushing you to those ported subs in the rear!
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Old 07-06-2014, 07:50 PM - Thread Starter
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My seats are on wood now and I feel everything. The rear subs are a done deal, just figuring out box design and drivers. If the UXL were available I would already have them blasting! I know having a port in your back adds tactile response but I can turn my gain up even more for more vibrations, pressure, etc. I have shakers in all my seats that I don't use which I could add as well. I thought they were OK but I like what bass feels like naturally. I still like the concrete bass better than the riser bass but the sweet spot for surrounds is awesome! The dual stacked surrounds are awesome as well but I will raise them with the subs/stands. I would never give up my single digits for ported so if I port it will be low. My 14.5hz tuned DTS-10's went to 9hz in room so 11 hz will go to around 5 hz so the signal chain will act as the HP filter. I know because I never needed them with the DTS-10's.
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Old 07-06-2014, 08:17 PM
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I think you're going down the right path! I personally wouldn't add shakers unless a last resort...the natural shake is the most realistic to me. Crowsons come damn close...and do a great job in the single digits in particular.

I have to caveat my ht experience though... My ht seating has a resonant frequency sweet spot between 10 and 20hz. So what I experience may be more perfect storm with my setup, as opposed to a recipe that everyone can cook up.

My opinion though is that it is a recipe that can be recreated even without my ht seating, just may not be as prevalent.

There's a real business idea out there if someone can make ht seating tuned to a certain resonant frequency...or even a riser tuned to a specific frequency...
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Old 07-06-2014, 08:22 PM - Thread Starter
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Maybe it has to do with the sweet spot of the FV15HP rather than the seats?
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Old 07-06-2014, 08:25 PM - Thread Starter
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I will try the ported IB first since I can do that in one night and I can always seal it back up. I have a feeling I won't. The only thing I worry about subs in the back is knowing they are there or localization and I Iove the bass coming from the front. Well, you can't tell where the woofs are actually.
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Old 07-07-2014, 04:17 AM
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This is the first that I have heard about a ported IB. How would you model this in order to get the correct tune? Would the ideal driver specs for a sealed IB still apply to a ported IB?

I would absolutely love to take my Dayton HO18's and try out an IB build when I start to build my baffle wall, but, I know that my HO18's are not optimal for a traditional IB setup. Can anyone tell me how they would fair for a ported IB setup?

Would a ported IB setup require less watts/current/voltage compared to a sealed IB setup?
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Old 07-07-2014, 06:17 AM
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I would assume you model it exactly like any other ported sub, the sealed room behind your IB is your box volume, the ports he's adding are the port length/diameter.
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Old 07-07-2014, 06:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Martycool007 View Post
This is the first that I have heard about a ported IB. How would you model this in order to get the correct tune? Would the ideal driver specs for a sealed IB still apply to a ported IB?

I would absolutely love to take my Dayton HO18's and try out an IB build when I start to build my baffle wall, but, I know that my HO18's are not optimal for a traditional IB setup. Can anyone tell me how they would fair for a ported IB setup?

Would a ported IB setup require less watts/current/voltage compared to a sealed IB setup?
Do you mean a big ported box ? They would work well but not enough "better" to take them out of your current ported boxes. I'd leave it alone and add another super low tuned cabinet to fill the bottom. If you hard cut from port tune and under your current subs and then pad down the super low tune new cab above the port tune of your current subs they should blend well. 9hz port. Do it. Add another sub. You know you want to do it

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Old 07-07-2014, 07:11 AM - Thread Starter
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I have the luxury of having my box being a wall which means I can change and go back when needed. If I had separate subs I would have to make new boxes and in my situation I just need to route holes and add port or seal the hole up again.
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Old 07-07-2014, 09:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Martycool007 View Post
This is the first that I have heard about a ported IB. How would you model this in order to get the correct tune? Would the ideal driver specs for a sealed IB still apply to a ported IB?

I would absolutely love to take my Dayton HO18's and try out an IB build when I start to build my baffle wall, but, I know that my HO18's are not optimal for a traditional IB setup. Can anyone tell me how they would fair for a ported IB setup?

Would a ported IB setup require less watts/current/voltage compared to a sealed IB setup?
Ported IB = LLT = very large resonant alignment

My Dual 18" LLT subs 120dB down to 10hz

 

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Old 07-10-2014, 08:52 AM - Thread Starter
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So I figured using the RE XXX 15 will give me the best results for my two boxes for the surround stands. Winisd modeled them for a 16 cubic foot box with a 11 hz tune. This requires a 3x16 slot port 61 inches long or a 7.5 inch round port 55 inches long. The velocities are both OK since I won't use all of their potential. Anyone have a box idea? It needs to be 20 inches tall.
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Old 07-10-2014, 10:02 AM
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Do you prefer deeper than wide or wider than deep ?
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Old 07-10-2014, 11:00 AM - Thread Starter
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Wider than deep
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Old 07-10-2014, 12:52 PM
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42" wide, 36" deep and 20" height ?

15 cubes before port, bracing and driver.

about 11 after probably. perhaps 10 with a bigger port.

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