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post #1 of 49 Old 07-03-2014, 01:42 PM - Thread Starter
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Duratex rocks!

Ordered a gallon and 3 rollers for eighty bucks delivered.
That gallon has covered 2 4cu ft sealed enclosures and 3 88 specials from the diysoundgroup.

All 5 cabinets look good I still have at least half of the gallon left.
Impressive stuff for sure. It is not often a product lives up to the hype but Duratex does.
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post #2 of 49 Old 07-03-2014, 02:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jake515 View Post
Ordered a gallon and 3 rollers for eighty bucks delivered.
That gallon has covered 2 4cu ft sealed enclosures and 3 88 specials from the diysoundgroup.

All 5 cabinets look good I still have at least half of the gallon left.
Impressive stuff for sure. It is not often a product lives up to the hype but Duratex does.
Have any pictures of your finished product(s)?
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post #3 of 49 Old 07-03-2014, 02:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jake515 View Post
Ordered a gallon and 3 rollers for eighty bucks delivered.
That gallon has covered 2 4cu ft sealed enclosures and 3 88 specials from the diysoundgroup.

All 5 cabinets look good I still have at least half of the gallon left.
Impressive stuff for sure. It is not often a product lives up to the hype but Duratex does.
Couple of questions since I will be using duratex to cover my four sub's. The roller from them is all I need ? (Don't need to buy other painting gear )
How do you control the pebble factor ? I want a slight bumpy look. Pics would be good
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post #4 of 49 Old 07-03-2014, 02:24 PM
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post #5 of 49 Old 07-03-2014, 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by notnyt View Post
took me a gallon per cabinet
I wonder if it also depends on the material, mdf vs plywood.

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post #6 of 49 Old 07-03-2014, 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by wyattroa View Post
I wonder if it also depends on the material, mdf vs plywood.
well my cabinets were huge... so kind of expected.
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post #7 of 49 Old 07-03-2014, 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by notnyt View Post
well my cabinets were huge... so kind of expected.
Lol, I know that..I have been through your build many of time dreaming. Still makes me wonder about material though and maybe soaking in on plywood.

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post #8 of 49 Old 07-03-2014, 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by wyattroa View Post
Lol, I know that..I have been through your build many of time dreaming. Still makes me wonder about material though and maybe soaking in on plywood.
I think MDF might be thirstier... I had almost a good coverage with one coat.
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post #9 of 49 Old 07-03-2014, 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by notnyt View Post
I think MDF might be thirstier... I had almost a good coverage with one coat.
Good to know as I am not too far off from the painting stage of my two subs. I will have to see how the duratex is with the mdf. I have a gallon of it.

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post #10 of 49 Old 07-03-2014, 03:54 PM
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you can have a range of textures using Duratex. I prefer the leather smooth look and for that you just get a fine foam roller from your local big box. It goes a long way.
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post #11 of 49 Old 07-03-2014, 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
you can have a range of textures using Duratex. I prefer the leather smooth look and for that you just get a fine foam roller from your local big box. It goes a long way.
OK so pebble controlled by roller. Gotcha ya
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post #12 of 49 Old 07-03-2014, 04:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post
Couple of questions since I will be using duratex to cover my four sub's. The roller from them is all I need ? (Don't need to buy other painting gear )
How do you control the pebble factor ? I want a slight bumpy look. Pics would be good
Chalugadp, the texture below was done using the blue 4 inch roller that often gets sold with the duratex. if this is to much texture/bumpiness, you can always use a foam roller and it will come out a lot less textured.

this pic blows up pretty big, because it's high res. this close up gives you a good idea.

Click image for larger version

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and op, you are right....duratex is an AWESOME PRODUCT!
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post #13 of 49 Old 07-03-2014, 04:22 PM
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I will get a couple of different rollers . to hide a seam in MDF do I need the texture you have Kev ?
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post #14 of 49 Old 07-03-2014, 04:27 PM
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Originally Posted by notnyt View Post
took me a gallon per cabinet
true, but its because in some countries, your cabinets would be considered nice size houses.
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post #15 of 49 Old 07-03-2014, 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post
I will get a couple of different rollers . to hide a seam in MDF do I need the texture you have Kev ?
hiding MDF seams you're going to want to hit it with some spackle anywhere there are seems to keep it flat and fill it in before painting
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post #16 of 49 Old 07-03-2014, 04:35 PM
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hiding MDF seams you're going to want to hit it with some spackle anywhere there are seems to keep it flat and fill it in before painting
I already filled it , so no gaps and nice and smooth to the touch. Should be OK ?
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post #17 of 49 Old 07-03-2014, 04:36 PM
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Lowes has a flat black, Icon series for about $20/gal, makes a great first coat/primer surface sealer defect detector. dries in a heart beat and if you thin it a bit, apply with a foam roller, you can keep texture to very low and get a sealed surface for more control the far more expensive duratex top coat. it also sands easlily enough it you want to minimize grain raising or mdf surface swelling.
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post #18 of 49 Old 07-03-2014, 04:36 PM
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Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post
I already filled it , so no gaps and nice and smooth to the touch. Should be OK ?
MDF doesn't have grain really, so should be fine as long as everything is smooth and filled...
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post #19 of 49 Old 07-03-2014, 04:37 PM
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Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post
I will get a couple of different rollers . to hide a seam in MDF do I need the texture you have Kev ?
i used plywood and i would say that my seams are like 80-90% hidden. if you want to be sure you see no seams, i would do a little spackling / sanding. If i had to do it all over again, this is an extra step id take.

( im actually doing this step on my coffee table build, so we will see if end up nailing it and finishing with no seams )
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post #20 of 49 Old 07-03-2014, 04:42 PM
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I think I will try a base coat then the duratex. I know I'm not as picky as some. The room that my stuff is in has little light. Painted my center channel stand yesterday with basic acrylic black and can barely see the seams.
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post #21 of 49 Old 07-03-2014, 04:43 PM
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the flat black also makes for a good proof coat before final, especially wrt to plywood/mdf edges/joints"smoothness" and lack of edge/seam/joint evidence

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post #22 of 49 Old 07-03-2014, 07:00 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by kevings View Post
Chalugadp, the texture below was done using the blue 4 inch roller that often gets sold with the duratex. if this is to much texture/bumpiness, you can always use a foam roller and it will come out a lot less textured.

this pic blows up pretty big, because it's high res. this close up gives you a good idea.

Attachment 147010

and op, you are right....duratex is an AWESOME PRODUCT!
I used the blue roller from duratex and it did come out a little rough.
My theater is pretty dark so everything kind of disappears once the movie starts. In a brighter room I can see wanting to used a different roller.
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post #23 of 49 Old 07-03-2014, 07:05 PM
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How u liking the 88's ?
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post #24 of 49 Old 07-03-2014, 07:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asarose247
Lowes has a flat black, Icon series for about $20/gal, makes a great first coat/primer surface sealer defect detector. dries in a heart beat and if you thin it a bit, apply with a foam roller, you can keep texture to very low and get a sealed surface for more control the far more expensive duratex top coat.
I just did a search on the Canadian sites (.ca) for Lowes, HomeDepot and Rona. None of them seems to sell DuraTex. (According to the Acry-Tech site, it looks like the only Canadian distributor is located in Waterloo, Ontario.)

If I use the Icon primer as a first coat, would any reasonably good-quality, low-gloss wood paint work well as a subsequent coat? Or is it better / safer to go with a "texture-y" product comparable to DuraTex?

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post #25 of 49 Old 07-03-2014, 07:36 PM
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Duratex only available online. You might want to put a coat of black primer on first and then see how the seams are. My guess is you will still see them from close up. It depends on how picky you are. Won't hurt. If you are not happy with it then put duratex over top. From 4' and back I don't think you will see seams with just regular paint.
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post #26 of 49 Old 07-03-2014, 07:38 PM
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Yeah, I'll see how the cabs look after a primer coat of Icon.

Is there an alternative to DuraTex that anyone uses / can recommend? Or is DuraTex THE paint to use?
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post #27 of 49 Old 07-03-2014, 07:51 PM
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post #28 of 49 Old 07-03-2014, 07:52 PM
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OK, thanks, that might be an option. I guess it'll all depend on how the primer works out.
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post #29 of 49 Old 07-03-2014, 08:17 PM
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I think duratex is the most trouble free. Bedliner works well but I have seen a couple people have trouble. Depends upon your painting skill.
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post #30 of 49 Old 07-03-2014, 09:02 PM
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I wasnt thinking of priming mine before, but i am now. I am going to fill in all brad hole and the seams before hand and sand it down. Figured I might as well try to do it right..well, as much as I can..lol
Robert

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