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post #61 of 92 Old 07-09-2014, 08:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bassment View Post

Actually if anyone has a dayton USB mic from cross spectrum, if they could tell me the calibration below 20 hz, that would be awesome, as I have one but just from parts express, and would rather get 2 or 3 peoples sub 20 calibrations and average them to get a good guess for mine, than just using it uncalibrated.

It would do you no good because Cross Spectrum calibrates each and every mic independently so if someone gave you their file it would be for their mic not yours. So it wouldn't be correct anyways, so what would be the point. You can't just average them and say "yeah that's good enough" you might as well just not bothering doing it.

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post #62 of 92 Old 07-09-2014, 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by jbrown15 View Post
It would do you no good because Cross Spectrum calibrates each and every mic independently so if someone gave you their file it would be for their mic not yours. So it wouldn't be correct anyways, so what would be the point. You can't just average them and say "yeah that's good enough" you might as well just not bothering doing it.
I know what you're saying, but if I get 3 files and one says the mic is -5 at 5 hz, -4 at 10 hz and -3 at 15 hz, another says -6 at 5 hz, -5 at 10 hz, and -4 at 15 hz, and another says -3 at 5 hz, -3 at 10 hz, and -4 at 15 hz, then I will be able to have a more accurate response than just using 0 db from 0-20 hz. I don't really care that much about eq'ing that low, other than a LT, since the main room peak/null eq is needed at like 40 to 80 hz.

If the files are all over the place for below 20 hz, then you're right it's 100% useless. I suspect they will be similar though, I could be wrong.

Of course for 18 to 20,000 hz and above I am using my own file.
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post #63 of 92 Old 07-09-2014, 12:26 PM - Thread Starter
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Shipment came today of the speakon mounts and my iNuke 6000DSP!

Here's some pics from the last few days:

Speakers built and being sanded/filled/sanded/sealed/sanded:



First coat of Duratex going on:



Both speakers done (2 coats of duratex), now just awaiting the drivers:



Speakon connector installed. I hooked up +1 and -1 to (will be positive & negative on driver - hope this is the right way to do it for the iNuke 6000DSP):



And the final product, front view. A few touch up spots for the finish, but overall I'm happy with the build. Definitely going to need two people to move it out of the garage into my basement!

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post #64 of 92 Old 07-09-2014, 03:01 PM
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Good looking box!!! should pound great I'd bet!

Blasting brown notes for 10 years and counting!

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post #65 of 92 Old 07-09-2014, 03:57 PM
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Quote:
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Just a random idea... what if he did a "group buy" at a profitable price, but everyone has to pay up front, or pay half up front or something like that. Then he can do a large order of all the parts he needs, with other people's money.
I'm pretty sure Mark took some sort of deposit for the first group buy, didn't he? Not sure if it was 50% or what.

I know I'd be willing to pay up front for a more competitive price. If I could get a pair of UXL-18 drivers at a price that's 20-25% off per driver (similar to the group buy price) I'd have no problem putting that money up front and having to wait a few months for the drivers to come.
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post #66 of 92 Old 07-09-2014, 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Bassment View Post
I thought it was to 20 hz? I don't think there is much difference between the dayton and umik-1, get whatever one is cheaper.
No, definitely calibrated to 10 Hz from miniDSP....each mic has a unique calibration file based on its serial number. You may be right that the calibrations are similar enough to get in the ballpark with any mic if you average some calibration files, not sure though but sounds reasonable. If someone does not have one though, its $75 for a calibrated Umik-1.

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post #67 of 92 Old 07-10-2014, 06:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bear123 View Post
No, definitely calibrated to 10 Hz from miniDSP....each mic has a unique calibration file based on its serial number. You may be right that the calibrations are similar enough to get in the ballpark with any mic if you average some calibration files, not sure though but sounds reasonable. If someone does not have one though, its $75 for a calibrated Umik-1.
I can't remember where but I'm pretty sure I read their 10 to 20 hz are incorrect or measured wrong or something. Maybe they fixed that.

I emailed cross-spectrum and they graciously sent me some UMM-6 measurement files. They have basically identical curves from 5 to 100 hz, so I can look at my 20 to 100 hz and I will be able to very accurately extrapolate the data.
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post #68 of 92 Old 07-10-2014, 06:47 AM
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I'm surprised they did that. Herb is a pretty good dude.

I too thought they stopped doing down to 10hz cause they were doing it wrong.
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post #69 of 92 Old 07-12-2014, 08:06 AM
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Has anyone fired up a UXL-18 in one of those stonehenge enclosures yet and have any feedback? I'm planning on doing a pair; just waiting on Erich to acquire/post for sale on his site the stonehenge enclosure with the port on the opposite side (I'm looking to buy one of each). Any feedback thus far would be awesome.
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post #70 of 92 Old 07-12-2014, 04:12 PM - Thread Starter
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I'll letcha know when my drivers ship from Mark. The boxes are in my basement right next to my iNuke 6000DSP and are finished. Have all the wires and everything I need to get it all hooked up. UXLs are all paid for, so they are the final missing piece.

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post #71 of 92 Old 07-12-2014, 11:05 PM
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Originally Posted by ClemsonJeeper View Post
I'll letcha know when my drivers ship from Mark. The boxes are in my basement right next to my iNuke 6000DSP and are finished. Have all the wires and everything I need to get it all hooked up. UXLs are all paid for, so they are the final missing piece.
Awesome, that's much appreciated. I'll be running the exact same pair as you, same enclosures, same amp so I'm really looking forward to your results.

Just curious, what sub(s) are you upgrading from?

Aesthetically I'm still undecided on which route to go with the finishing of the cabinets. Duratex seems like the safe and most common decision, but I'm more of a go against the grain kind of guy and may try something else first and Duratex over it if I don't like how it turns out.
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post #72 of 92 Old 07-12-2014, 11:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrutalBodyShots View Post
Has anyone fired up a UXL-18 in one of those stonehenge enclosures yet and have any feedback? I'm planning on doing a pair; just waiting on Erich to acquire/post for sale on his site the stonehenge enclosure with the port on the opposite side (I'm looking to buy one of each). Any feedback thus far would be awesome.

I thought you didn't want to use these cabinets because you wanted something deeper for a larger cabinet?

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post #73 of 92 Old 07-12-2014, 11:33 PM
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I thought you didn't want to use these cabinets because you wanted something deeper for a larger cabinet?
Ideally, yes I'd like a greater depth cabinet as I have the space to spare and could easily accept another 2 ft3 per cab based on my room and aesthetics. Based on my current "to-do" list around the house however, I realistically can't invest the time needed to build exactly what I want at this time. I've got to be honest with myself... I've got simple 2 hour projects like fixing some tile work, waterproofing 2 basement walls and putting a new front door on the house and I can't find time to get done. Hell, I've had the replacement front door sitting in my basement for 2 years now (through 2 winters) and I've probably pissed away more money in heating costs out through the paper-thin uninsulated original 1950's wooden door than buying these 2 cabs would cost me.
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post #74 of 92 Old 07-13-2014, 09:42 AM - Thread Starter
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Awesome, that's much appreciated. I'll be running the exact same pair as you, same enclosures, same amp so I'm really looking forward to your results.

Just curious, what sub(s) are you upgrading from?

Aesthetically I'm still undecided on which route to go with the finishing of the cabinets. Duratex seems like the safe and most common decision, but I'm more of a go against the grain kind of guy and may try something else first and Duratex over it if I don't like how it turns out.
I went with duratex since these are all going to be hidden behind a screen wall, so the finish wasn't terribly important to me.

I'm upgrading from nothing. :-). It's a new build. To be honest, I have no idea what they are going to sound like. I've never even been in a finished dedicated home theater like the one I am attempting to build.

Time will tell!

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post #75 of 92 Old 07-13-2014, 04:02 PM
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Awesome, you're in for a real treat I'd imagine! So you don't even have a basic commercial sub or anything at the moment? How did you get turned on to DIY before even dabbling in the commercial stuff first?
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post #76 of 92 Old 07-13-2014, 04:27 PM - Thread Starter
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Awesome, you're in for a real treat I'd imagine! So you don't even have a basic commercial sub or anything at the moment? How did you get turned on to DIY before even dabbling in the commercial stuff first?
I've had a cruddy 10" JBL sub at one point, it didn't really put out a lot. This was just in a 5.1 system for my family room TV.

I was DIYing my theater and spent an inordinate amount of time on this forum over the last few years researching and looking at other people's builds. I saw several that did DIY speakers that they said sounded better than commercial speakers 4x their cost. Couldn't resist looking into DIY after reading that.

Erich's flat packs and kits make it ridiculously easy to DIY speakers. I started with 3x Tempest 12's and hooked them up and the sound they put out was crazy - for the price you can't beat it.

I'm really looking forward to getting the drivers from Mark. Hopefully next week..

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post #77 of 92 Old 07-14-2014, 05:38 AM
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Would these Stonehenge enclosures work well for any other drivers besides the UXL-18? I am helping my buddy build a nice DIY setup and am interested in knowing if a driver such as the Dayton HO18 or Stereo Integrity 18HT would work well in the Stonehenge enclosures, or is this just for the UXL-18? He has a slight space constraint that prevents us from doing full sized MartySubs with the HO18 or SI 18.
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post #78 of 92 Old 07-14-2014, 05:55 AM
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I think LTD02's original size and tuning idea was for the Dayton 18" and the SI-18.
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post #79 of 92 Old 07-14-2014, 06:02 AM
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I think LTD02's original size and tuning idea was for the Dayton 18" and the SI-18.
When do you anticipate on having more or these Stonehenge enclosures available? My buddy will be ready to order one of them on Friday of this week. Would be nice to have a flat pack and not have to drag all of my tools out!
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post #80 of 92 Old 07-14-2014, 07:56 AM - Thread Starter
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When do you anticipate on having more or these Stonehenge enclosures available? My buddy will be ready to order one of them on Friday of this week. Would be nice to have a flat pack and not have to drag all of my tools out!
DIYSoundGroup's site says they are in stock right now. You have to order one of each (the panels & the sub-structure).

Incidentally, I see some people wiring their subs in parallel or series.... Why would you do this? My plan is to run the iNuke 6000 DSP by:

AVR Pre Amp Out -> RCA Splitter -> 2 RCA to XLR cables -> Into input A/B on iNuke

then output:

iNuke A & B -> Speakon cables to each sub. A to one sub, B to another.

Is this the proper plan or should I be looking into wiring them some other way?

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post #81 of 92 Old 07-16-2014, 09:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Emailed Mark today for a quick status update. He said some parts were a bit delayed in shipping, so expects drivers to start going out early next week.

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post #82 of 92 Old 07-17-2014, 07:53 AM
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Emailed Mark today for a quick status update. He said some parts were a bit delayed in shipping, so expects drivers to start going out early next week.
From what I've found in DIY, whenever a vendor says "a week" it usually ends up being almost a month. It is what it is.
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post #83 of 92 Old 07-17-2014, 01:56 PM
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I heard from Erich today and he said he picked up the stonehenge designs with the port on the opposite side, but hasn't had a chance to list them on his site for sale yet. I'd imagine he will very soon, and I plan on scooping up one of each.
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post #84 of 92 Old 07-17-2014, 02:27 PM
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My invoice I just got today from mark gave me a ship date of the 21st. So be looking for a shipping notice around then.
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Sub build http://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...et-r-done.html
Center - JBL LC2
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Sub -Updating to Duals with UXL-18"s A bit different
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post #85 of 92 Old 07-24-2014, 10:04 PM - Thread Starter
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One of my UXL's shipped today! Said he will ship the other next week.

Sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet.

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post #86 of 92 Old 07-25-2014, 06:56 AM
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Nicely documented build thread, I look fwd to seeing the final install picts and charts.
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post #87 of 92 Old 07-25-2014, 12:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ClemsonJeeper View Post

And the final product, front view. A few touch up spots for the finish, but overall I'm happy with the build. Definitely going to need two people to move it out of the garage into my basement!


Nice job! What size speaker wire is that?


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Originally Posted by ClemsonJeeper View Post
Incidentally, I see some people wiring their subs in parallel or series.... Why would you do this? My plan is to run the iNuke 6000 DSP by:

AVR Pre Amp Out -> RCA Splitter -> 2 RCA to XLR cables -> Into input A/B on iNuke

then output:

iNuke A & B -> Speakon cables to each sub. A to one sub, B to another.

Is this the proper plan or should I be looking into wiring them some other way?

Parallel and series wiring usually comes into play when you have dual voice coil speakers and you are bridging your amp. The 6000 is already two bridged 3000s internally, so you can't bridge it. As long as your speakers have the desired ohm load to get the power from the amp that you want, it's a normal connection. I'm not familiar with the UXLs. Are they dual voice coil? How many ohms are they per coil?
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post #88 of 92 Old 07-25-2014, 01:29 PM - Thread Starter
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Nice job! What size speaker wire is that?





Parallel and series wiring usually comes into play when you have dual voice coil speakers and you are bridging your amp. The 6000 is already two bridged 3000s internally, so you can't bridge it. As long as your speakers have the desired ohm load to get the power from the amp that you want, it's a normal connection. I'm not familiar with the UXLs. Are they dual voice coil? How many ohms are they per coil?
16 gauge. I use 12 from the amp to the box, but the 12 doesn't fit too well on the speak on connector on the back of the box (the connections are very tiny). Read that this short a distance it is not a big deal.

If it is, let me know and I'll figure something else out.

As for the speaker, it is rated at 18.6hz at 3.2 ohms, so it sounds like the 6000 puts out 3000 @ 4 ohms so perfect. Should run them around 50% gain, one off each channel.
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post #89 of 92 Old 07-25-2014, 09:16 PM
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Stonehenge terminals

I am finishing up my first Stonehenge build this week while waiting for my SI-HT18's to arrive. I am using the same speakon terminals as ClemsonJeeper but I am using a 2" forstner bit to recess them. This will allow me to install terminals on multiple sides for placement flexibility while allowing the box to lay flat on the sides which have a terminal.


Anyone know where to find some properly-sized tapered screws that will work with these terminals?


Any thoughts on which sides to have terminals installed for flexibility?





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post #90 of 92 Old 07-26-2014, 02:21 PM - Thread Starter
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If you find a good screw to use definitely let me know. Mine are on the back of the speaker along with being behind a screen wall, but it just bothers me that the screws I put in them are ugly. :-)

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