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post #1 of 27 Old 07-07-2014, 09:52 AM - Thread Starter
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MiniMarty Build Thread

I am happy to announce that I have ordered my SI 18 D4. I hopefully get it by the end of the month or early next month. I am starting to look for my inuke 3000dsp. Anyone know of any sales or the best and cheapest place to purchase?

I am going to hopefully start on the box in the next couple weeks as I have a couple "honey do" items. Is it best to buy 4x8 sheets of MDF or can I use the 2x4 sheets from Home Depot? I ask because it will be easier to transport the 2x4 sheets. Thanks and I will be adding pics of the process as I start
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post #2 of 27 Old 07-07-2014, 10:06 AM
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4x8 is cheaper, just go to a guy in the lumber department and they will cut it for you with their wall saw. The homedepot near me cut like 40 pieces for me from a 4x8 sheet of MDF for free with the wall saw, it cuts perfect straight lines. They can only get to like 1/8" accuracy, but it's fine for making pieces to flush trim.
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post #3 of 27 Old 07-07-2014, 10:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chadcj7 View Post
I am happy to announce that I have ordered my SI 18 D4. I hopefully get it by the end of the month or early next month. I am starting to look for my inuke 3000dsp. Anyone know of any sales or the best and cheapest place to purchase?

I am going to hopefully start on the box in the next couple weeks as I have a couple "honey do" items. Is it best to buy 4x8 sheets of MDF or can I use the 2x4 sheets from Home Depot? I ask because it will be easier to transport the 2x4 sheets. Thanks and I will be adding pics of the process as I start
If you order today, Parts Express has the inuke3000DSP for about $250 once you factor the holiday discount in. You probably aren't going to find one cheaper than that.
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post #4 of 27 Old 07-07-2014, 06:48 PM - Thread Starter
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If you order today, Parts Express has the inuke3000DSP for about $250 once you factor the holiday discount in. You probably aren't going to find one cheaper than that.
thanks for the heads up on the sale. I now have a inuke 3000dsp ordered. All i need now is to get the wood and all the odds and ends.

I am sure I will have a couple questions along the way as well
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post #5 of 27 Old 07-09-2014, 06:40 PM - Thread Starter
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the pictures have begun. Just received this today. Also heard back from SI and they said that it should have the drives in by the last of the month
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post #6 of 27 Old 07-27-2014, 02:29 PM - Thread Starter
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I know that we have seen a million of these builds it seems but I wanted to give an update on my build. At this point I have made all of the cuts and will hopefully start assembly some time this week.

Thank you everyone for inspiring me to build this sub. Most people think I am crazy when I tell them that I am building this and that it is a 18" sub!!!
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post #7 of 27 Old 07-27-2014, 05:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chadcj7 View Post
I know that we have seen a million of these builds it seems but I wanted to give an update on my build. At this point I have made all of the cuts and will hopefully start assembly some time this week.

Thank you everyone for inspiring me to build this sub. Most people think I am crazy when I tell them that I am building this and that it is a 18" sub!!!
There is never too many build pics. Always see something new
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post #8 of 27 Old 07-29-2014, 07:26 PM - Thread Starter
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question #1 out of the process so far.

what is everyone using for sealing up everything on the inside? window caulking?

Thanks
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post #9 of 27 Old 07-29-2014, 07:39 PM
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question #1 out of the process so far.

what is everyone using for sealing up everything on the inside? window caulking?

Thanks
Yes that works fine for small gaps. Big ones need pl premium.
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post #10 of 27 Old 08-04-2014, 08:20 PM - Thread Starter
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So my first question. I have started assembling and wondering how I need to space my ports out for the martycube?
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post #11 of 27 Old 08-04-2014, 08:53 PM
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7.5" from both sidewalls will make three ports equal
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post #12 of 27 Old 08-05-2014, 03:07 AM
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i got mine in last friday. i ordered 2!

living room: harman kardon avr 1710, samsung un65f9000 4k led, klipsch rf7ii X2, klipsch rc64, klipsch rw12d X2
garage: harman kardon avr354, samsung un55c6300, klipsch f3 X4, klipsch rc52
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post #13 of 27 Old 08-05-2014, 12:29 PM - Thread Starter
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Moving along much quicker then I thought. I will be posting pics amateur today or tomorrow.

Question #2 . What size hole should I cut out for the SI 18 D4???
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post #14 of 27 Old 08-05-2014, 12:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chadcj7 View Post
Moving along much quicker then I thought. I will be posting pics amateur today or tomorrow.

Question #2 . What size hole should I cut out for the SI 18 D4???
looks like 16.7" according to their site

Klipsch RF-82|RC-62|RS-52|2 SI 18's in Marty Cabs Powered by Inuke 3000DSP|
Denon AVR-X4000|Panasonic 65ST30|Panasonic BDP-220|Oppo BDP-83|Optoma HD131XE with Elite SableFrame 110"|
4 Aura Bass Shakers powered by Dayton PSA-250|4 Seatcraft 5131 seats
Apple TV3/FireTV/Chromecasts
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post #15 of 27 Old 08-05-2014, 12:52 PM - Thread Starter
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Thank you for that PM-Pformance. I looked on their website and must have looked right over it. Thanks again
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post #16 of 27 Old 08-05-2014, 06:55 PM - Thread Starter
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I came across a small problem and I am looking for advice on how to fix things. Basically my back and lower port were a tight fit and apparently it threw things off as I am coming closer to finishing. I basically need to add the front baffle and some bracing before final touches. I have attached a pic of me setting the top piece on and seeing the gap. Like I said I think it is from the upper and lower ports pieces that threw things off

I can cut another piece? I can glue and clamp and try to bring it closer and then make it look as pretty as I can with bond?

Thanks
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post #17 of 27 Old 08-05-2014, 07:00 PM
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PL glue will fill that in easily. What glue are you using?
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post #18 of 27 Old 08-05-2014, 07:01 PM
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Almost looks bowed. Screws/nails once you assemble might fix that. I got scared on a few parts but it all worked out once fastened

Klipsch RF-82|RC-62|RS-52|2 SI 18's in Marty Cabs Powered by Inuke 3000DSP|
Denon AVR-X4000|Panasonic 65ST30|Panasonic BDP-220|Oppo BDP-83|Optoma HD131XE with Elite SableFrame 110"|
4 Aura Bass Shakers powered by Dayton PSA-250|4 Seatcraft 5131 seats
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post #19 of 27 Old 08-05-2014, 07:05 PM
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Glue and clamp first and suck it in some. Then I would use silicone to fill, others like Pl.
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post #20 of 27 Old 08-05-2014, 07:06 PM - Thread Starter
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I have been using titebond III and it has worked fine. I have some PL Premium that I will try along with my brad nailer and try clamping things down as well. Also it is bowed a little and I think that is due to some things fitting a little to tight
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post #21 of 27 Old 08-05-2014, 07:09 PM - Thread Starter
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thanks for the advice as well.

I will attach a couple pics to show my progress
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post #22 of 27 Old 08-06-2014, 02:41 PM - Thread Starter
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What gauge wire do I need to use for the driver connections and back of speakon connectors? I have also attached a pic of the foam that I was going to use. Let me know if it will work.
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post #23 of 27 Old 08-06-2014, 05:39 PM
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What gauge wire do I need to use for the driver connections and back of speakon connectors? I have also attached a pic of the foam that I was going to use. Let me know if it will work.
12 to 14 GA. As long as it's not memory foam it's fine.
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post #24 of 27 Old 08-09-2014, 12:23 PM - Thread Starter
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12 to 14 GA. As long as it's not memory foam it's fine.
Couple more questions. Almost to the point where I can hook up and test.

First question is to make sure that my bracing is enough? Picture below

Second question. How should i cable both the SI 18 D4 and the speak on connector. I will be using a single sub and a inure 3000dsp.

Thanks
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post #25 of 27 Old 08-09-2014, 12:54 PM
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I would put a brace above center top and bottom center.

I believe wiring is use one positive to +1 neg to +2 of speakon. Then other positive to neg of si driver. Then set to bridge mode. Check with someone as I'm not sure.
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post #26 of 27 Old 08-14-2014, 07:41 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post
I would put a brace above center top and bottom center.

I believe wiring is use one positive to +1 neg to +2 of speakon. Then other positive to neg of si driver. Then set to bridge mode. Check with someone as I'm not sure.
I have everything in the finishing stages but as i was looking through other builds it doesn't appear to have a brace going over the back port. I have attached a pic and you and can see the white board I am talking about There is still a small gap from under the brace and the top of the port. Is this an issue???

Thanks
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post #27 of 27 Old 08-14-2014, 07:44 PM
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Yup brace there is good. No issue.
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