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post #1 of 107 Old 07-07-2014, 08:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Vertical Marty build thread

Finally got started on my first build a couple days ago.


I decided on a full vertical marty – like kevings. Also from Kevin, I bought a Stereo Integrity 18 D2 which is great so I don’t have to wait another ~month to get my pre-ordered SI 18.
I have a lot of great tools to get the job done right but the one corner I cut immediately was having the guy at Home depot cut the sheets of MDF in half for me so I could get them home easier, and also work with them easier. I’m doing all of this by myself so I didn’t want to have to move around full sheets of MDF and try and cut them alone. I wasn’t worried about the guy cutting them perfectly accurately because the full sheets are a little bit bigger than 48x96, so I had a little room to play and I would make more exact cuts at home. What I didn’t really think about was that the cuts from Home Deport wouldn’t come out perfectly square. I don’t know it’s possible with a saw that just slides down a straight track, but there’s about a 1/16 discrepancy in width across from top to bottom on the sheets.
Unfortunately, I didn’t realize this until after I did most of the cuts. I measured the distance I need, drew a line, and cut with a circular saw. Probably should have paid more attention.



Day one it was raining, so I thought I could maybe just start some cuts in the garage




All it took was one cut for me to call it a day. MDF dust is unreal. Everything in my little garage was covered in fine sawdust.

So on to day 2.


I used the miter saw to make these right angle brackets so that I could clamp panels in place while I glued/nailed. Helped a lot.




I’m apparently really bad freehand with a circular saw. I have a table saw but it’s not big enough to handle these sheets - but I did use it to cut the 3” rails and it was great. I wish I had a full size table saw.
I found an old garage door rail guide in the garage and used it as a straight-edge, along with a little guide I cut on the table saw that was the width of the circular base plate so I could line the guide up easier.











Obviously it helped me get straight cuts but even so, I have a lot of 1/16" overhang. Here's some photos you don't see very often on these forums: screw ups.
It might be that I'm really bad at measuring, or cutting... or both. But I'm still going to blame it on the Home Depot guy.
We'll just have to see how the 2nd build goes in a few weeks.






All in all it's coming together and I'm really enjoying the whole process, even if it does look like kind of a mess



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Last edited by in3rtia; 07-07-2014 at 08:37 PM.
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post #2 of 107 Old 07-07-2014, 08:37 PM - Thread Starter
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Right now the double baffle is glued and sandwiched and is drying. The incomplete marty is being used as weight while the glue dries.



I’ll pick up tomorrow and put the port rails in and finish the port.


I bought a router a few weeks ago and haven’t used it yet. To be honest the tool scares me. I’m super intimidated by it and I’m hoping that once I actually try to use it, it won’t be all that hard to use. I’ll have to use a flush trim bit to fix my overhangs, and I want to do a roundover on the whole box when it’s done. I’ll have to find some scrap wood to practice cutting circles out.





I cut up a few too many 24x24” squares and originally I was going to combine two of them to create the double baffle… Do you think it would have worked? I didn’t know if it wouldn’t be as strong with the 3-piece sandwhich instead of a solid 2. I eventually scrapped the idea and just cut another 24x48 panel, but I still want an opinion on if it would work in a pinch:


(assume everything is square and glued down solid)

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post #3 of 107 Old 07-07-2014, 08:39 PM
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Its a learning process. Just cut a piece a little shorter on the inside and then you have overhang. Then flush trim.

Since I have been building at home its took several builds with skillsaw to get really accurate. Now I can do it like I'm at the shop. Maybe I will do a couple of videos on how to cut deadly with skillsaw.

Your doing fine
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post #4 of 107 Old 07-07-2014, 10:40 PM
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Inertia,

Looking good so far buddy..

Don't worry about the overhang to much.. You can easily fix that with your router via straight bit or flush trim bit. Or, u could always use a sander though I think that would be more work.

If the router is intimidating you, just make sure you practice on test pieces, KEEP THE ROUTER BASE FLAT, and try watching a bunch of youtube videos on it's use. You'll get the hang of it it no time.

In a pinch the double baffle out of 24 x24's might work, as long as u brace the enclosure well, but I wouldn't go that route if it could be avoided.

Anyhow, your off to a great start, and I'm really going to enjoy watching your progress!

Link 1: All 3 Marty subs done, 6 week journey! Link 2: Quick Irule review with pics
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...k-journey.html
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/93-rem...ing-about.html
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post #5 of 107 Old 07-08-2014, 04:17 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks boys.
For connecting the speaker wire to the driver and speakon terminals, can I use these connectors? I don't know if I need 1/4 or 3/8. And do I need a special crimping tool or anything for them?
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post #6 of 107 Old 07-13-2014, 07:01 PM - Thread Starter
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Made some progress, have a few questions.
I work on the sub when I can but progress is slow.

Gluing the rails in place


Gluing the top onto the port rails


Light at the end of the tunnel... view from inside the ports looking out



I test fit the baffle and it was a good fit, so I drew up the circle



And cut it


Ended up not using the router because this just seemed easier. And it was. I still want (need) to use the router to flush trim when it's assembled.



Test fit







Questions about bracing.
This what I have so far
1)


2)
It's laying down in this picture so it's a different angle but I just added strips running from front to back, connecting to the ones going left to right - which will be nailed and glued to the baffle when it's in.


How much more do I need to brace?


And which terminals on the speakon connector do I hook up to the red and black on the sub?




And should I pick up a set of these connectors?
How else can I hook up to the terminals on the speakon? Could I just solder?

Also, Kevin, where did you drill the hole for the speakon?
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post #7 of 107 Old 07-13-2014, 07:09 PM
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Bracing like this

1+ pos 2+,neg for bridge mode.
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post #8 of 107 Old 07-13-2014, 08:28 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the drawing... I'll go rework the bracing.

Can the inuke 3000 do bridged mode into a 2-ohm sub? I have the SI 18 D2.
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post #9 of 107 Old 07-13-2014, 08:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by in3rtia View Post
Thanks for the drawing... I'll go rework the bracing.

Can the inuke 3000 do bridged mode into a 2-ohm sub? I have the SI 18 D2.
the d2 can be wired for 4ohm which the inuke will do in bridged mode. then use the limiter .
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post #10 of 107 Old 07-14-2014, 04:51 AM
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What size ports did you end up using? On my quad, full sized MartySubs I went with 3" x 22.5" x 36".

For connecting the speakon terminals, you need to use +1 and -1 with the iNuke3000 in stereo or duel mono mode, or if you want to bridge it, then you use +1 and +2 on the terminal end and the connector end. It is extremely hard to see the numbers on some speakon terminals and connectors. A magnifying glass works very well if you are blind as a bat, like myself!
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post #11 of 107 Old 07-14-2014, 05:06 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Martycool007 View Post
What size ports did you end up using? On my quad, full sized MartySubs I went with 3" x 22.5" x 36".

For connecting the speakon terminals, you need to use +1 and -1 with the iNuke3000 in stereo or duel mono mode, or if you want to bridge it, then you use +1 and +2 on the terminal end and the connector end. It is extremely hard to see the numbers on some speakon terminals and connectors. A magnifying glass works very well if you are blind as a bat, like myself!
The ports are 3" high and 24" wide and 40" long. Did you subtract the width of the rails? I suppose mine are 22.5" in that case also.

I'll bridge the amp and follow chaluga's advice and limit the it so as to not overdrive the sub.
The numbers are pretty clear on the speakon, but I'm sure I'll find some way to screw it up

Still unsure of how to best connect the speaker wire to the speakon... The sub is easy enough with spring loaded terminals.
Buy the solder-less crimps? Just solder? Both?
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post #12 of 107 Old 07-14-2014, 06:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by in3rtia View Post
The ports are 3" high and 24" wide and 40" long. Did you subtract the width of the rails? I suppose mine are 22.5" in that case also.

I'll bridge the amp and follow chaluga's advice and limit the it so as to not overdrive the sub.
The numbers are pretty clear on the speakon, but I'm sure I'll find some way to screw it up

Still unsure of how to best connect the speaker wire to the speakon... The sub is easy enough with spring loaded terminals.
Buy the solder-less crimps? Just solder? Both?
Why did you go with the 40" length on the ports instead of the original design which was 36"? Wouldn't the tune be quite a bit lower with a 40" port?

As far as the wire connecting to the speakon connectors and terminals, I used those crimp on connectors from Radio Shack, but, I would imagine that it would be best to solder them.
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post #13 of 107 Old 07-14-2014, 06:15 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Martycool007 View Post
Why did you go with the 40" length on the ports instead of the original design which was 36"? Wouldn't the tune be quite a bit lower with a 40" port?

As far as the wire connecting to the speakon connectors and terminals, I used those crimp on connectors from Radio Shack, but, I would imagine that it would be best to solder them.
I'm using the same plans as kevings in his thread

This plan:
clicky

Well I can solder but those crimp connectors seem so much easier, plus I might have to rewire the speakon if I build another one... right?
There's no special crimper for those crimps is there? Just stick the speaker wire in and squeeze? I imagine it can't be any more difficult than making banana plugs.
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post #14 of 107 Old 07-14-2014, 11:06 AM
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looking good so far!

So whats next?

Link 1: All 3 Marty subs done, 6 week journey! Link 2: Quick Irule review with pics
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...k-journey.html
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/93-rem...ing-about.html
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post #15 of 107 Old 07-14-2014, 11:27 AM - Thread Starter
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More bracing today so I can get the inside of this thing finished.
I just drilled the hole for the speakon on lunch so I'll screw that in and caulk it and run some wires. Gonna stop by radioshack to see about them crimp connectors.
Probably need to stop by Walmart too for eggcrate foam because I don't have enough.
Also need to go to Home Depot to get screws to screw in the driver.
I'd like to get the baffle set and glued and nailed in place too but that might have to wait until tomorrow. I have kind of a short window in which I can work on it today. I also still need to cut the top piece.
Tuesday or Wednesday I'm hoping to paint it. If all goes well I'll be trying to crack my drywall and break my windows this weekend.

After that... I'll build another one.
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post #16 of 107 Old 07-14-2014, 12:11 PM
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Second will be much easier. When you get to your 50 th its really easy
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post #17 of 107 Old 07-14-2014, 04:03 PM
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dude I wish you did all this before I started mine!! haha


looking really good! better then mine but hey its my first build.


I ordered they uxl 18 today so ill be looink forward to that. now I just gotta order my inuke 6000dsp and ill be all set.


your pics are really helpful btw. I refrained from to many pictures because most the time I didn't know if I was doing the build
the correct way or not lol


great thread and very informative, thanks

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post #18 of 107 Old 07-14-2014, 06:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Martycool007 View Post
Why did you go with the 40" length on the ports instead of the original design which was 36"? Wouldn't the tune be quite a bit lower with a 40" port?
Increasing the length of the port has less effect then you think, for example LTD02 had mentioned to me that for every 3/4" of length that I added to the port in my cabinet it would only lower the tune by 0.1hz.
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post #19 of 107 Old 07-14-2014, 09:50 PM
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Jbrown,

Good info, thx for sharing that.

Link 1: All 3 Marty subs done, 6 week journey! Link 2: Quick Irule review with pics
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...k-journey.html
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/93-rem...ing-about.html
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post #20 of 107 Old 07-15-2014, 04:28 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newc33 View Post
dude I wish you did all this before I started mine!! haha

looking really good! better then mine but hey its my first build.

I ordered they uxl 18 today so ill be looink forward to that. now I just gotta order my inuke 6000dsp and ill be all set.

your pics are really helpful btw. I refrained from to many pictures because most the time I didn't know if I was doing the build
the correct way or not lol

great thread and very informative, thanks
Thanks. Believe me it's not as pretty as the pictures make it look - I'll take some better pictures with my good camera later today to show all my flaws . I can never remember to bring the camera out with me when I work on it so I just end up taking cell phone shots because I'm too lazy to go get it.
And it doesn't matter how you get to the end, as long as you get a finished sub. As long as you're able to keep all your digits then you're probably not doing anything wrong
Are you building a full marty also?
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post #21 of 107 Old 07-15-2014, 04:43 AM - Thread Starter
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Did some more bracing. I think it's adequate but you all can let me know what you think. It's hard to get a good picture of it all.



The two tall vertical strips are just outside the speaker cutout so I'll be able to screw into them.
And there is a little piece connecting the bottom cross-braces with the base of the cabinet.


Top view looking down:




Test fit:


Getting there!
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post #22 of 107 Old 07-15-2014, 05:11 AM
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Looks great, nice job cutting the hole!
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post #23 of 107 Old 07-15-2014, 06:33 AM
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Yea that bracing is good, looks very sturdy. You could probably add one that connects the top piece to the bottom though.
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post #24 of 107 Old 07-15-2014, 07:55 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Yea that bracing is good, looks very sturdy. You could probably add one that connects the top piece to the bottom though.
Good idea. Does it have to be one long piece or can I cut it and to connect the rows? It would be offset but still essentially connecting top to bottom - just not in a straight line.
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post #25 of 107 Old 07-15-2014, 08:09 AM
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I think one long piece from top to bottom would be better, and attach it to one or even two of the rows too.
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post #26 of 107 Old 07-15-2014, 10:05 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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I think one long piece from top to bottom would be better, and attach it to one or even two of the rows too.
I didn't have one piece long enough but I think what I did will be almost equally effective. Just did this on break:



The orange line is the pillar top to bottom.
The piece at the very top being clamped will be where the top of the box sits.


Also went to wal-mart to look for egg-crate foam and couldn't find it... So I got this



So if nothing else at least my sub will be comfortable inside.
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post #27 of 107 Old 07-15-2014, 07:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Nearing the home stretch

First, these are for you newc33

This is what some of the box looked like before I worked on it tonight:



This was by far the worst edge:


:shudders:


So after work I bought an old Craftsman belt sander off a guy on craigslist for $25. It did work.
This is the same edge now after sanding




And the bottom




I really wanted to use my router, but it hasn't even left it's box yet.
After sanding every seam, I went a little nuts with filler




And now it's laying on it's back letting the baffle fully set overnight, even though it's pretty much ready to go considering I did all the sanding and everything already..




Belly of the beast:




Also stopped by Home Depot to pick up square-drive wood screws (which they didn't have...), but I did walk out with these:



Minimarty up next??



I also did these tonight:



I have 12 gauge wire but the only connectors that fit the terminals on the speakon were the crimps made for 14-16 wire. I stripped off that blue plastic, pried open the crimper with my leatherman and shoved my 12awg in there. Then crimped tight, dropped some solder on it, and heat shrinked it.


Next:
-finish sanding what I filled today
-I forgot to put the foam in before gluing the baffle on, so I have to try and do that before I glue the top on :/
-Glue the top on
-One last sanding
-Apply Duratex
-Connect everything and hope for the best.


I don't know if I'll have time to do much tomorrow though because I want to take my quadcopter down to the beach and film...

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post #28 of 107 Old 07-15-2014, 09:42 PM
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Quadcopter it is. Love those things.

I dont know why I never used crimps on my speakon. Would have been much better and easier. I have a cheap Soldering iron and I cant get the heat set correctly. Either it globs on or looks like crud. At least with crimps I could have a clean look with small amounts of solder. Thanks for the pics. And get some video of the copter here to share if you do go to the beach. PLZ
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post #29 of 107 Old 07-17-2014, 02:19 PM - Thread Starter
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I have the amp hooked up to my laptop right now, and I've made the following changes:



The SI website says the speaker can handle 600w RMS so am I correct in choosing those values?
The 2-ohm sub is wired for 4 ohms so I chose 4-ohm load.
I don't know what the Hold and Release times mean.
I also set the amp to Bridged. I assume I'll just connect the speakon from the sub to Output Channel A, then the XLR/RCA Input A to my receiver as normal?

Is there anything else I need to adjust in the software here?
Where should I start with the knob on the front of the amp? Do I leave B all the way down since its bridged and only using A?



I've also set the hpf to 16hz as according to ltd02's tutorial. Is that appropriate for this speaker?
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post #30 of 107 Old 07-17-2014, 03:24 PM - Thread Starter
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As much as I want to try, I think I need to leave the sub where it is in the garage because there's no way I can get it into my house alone. Gotta wait for my buddy to get home.
But I think I'm finally done. As I drilled the last screw in I was thinking "man I know I must have missed something..."


Starting the duratex:




Bad idea fly... he was stuck there by the time I saw him




All tex'd:




Connected the positive of one terminal to the negative the other to wire it up for 4-ohms. Obviously the remaining pos/neg will connect to the speakon.




Driver is in




And here she sits on her cart, all I can do is roller her around. No way I'm getting up the two small steps to my house alone




I gotta run to dinner now so while I go eat and wait for my friend to get home, you guys look at my previous post and check my amp settings and make sure I'm doing everything right!




Quote:
Originally Posted by chrapladm View Post
Quadcopter it is. Love those things.

I dont know why I never used crimps on my speakon. Would have been much better and easier. I have a cheap Soldering iron and I cant get the heat set correctly. Either it globs on or looks like crud. At least with crimps I could have a clean look with small amounts of solder. Thanks for the pics. And get some video of the copter here to share if you do go to the beach. PLZ
Here you go

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