new sub for existing car sub box - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 6 Old 07-12-2014, 09:47 AM - Thread Starter
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new sub for existing car sub box

I built a sealed 2ish cu ft box filled with 2 lbs of fiberfill and am using a Dayton Audio DVC 15" currently in my car. The Dayton is a damn good performer as it is, but I am looking for something with a little more xmax that can be pushed a little harder. The dayton is 15mm xmax and works well in a smallish box, as it is roughly tuned with an f3 of 42Hz right now. With cabin gain it plays very low very well. My amp can do 400 watts RMS @ 4 ohms and 650 @ 2 so efficiency is a bit of a concern. I am mainly familiar with the home audio subs, so any recommendations for a car or home sub would be appreciated. I would like to keep the sub under $200.

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post #2 of 6 Old 07-12-2014, 10:28 AM - Thread Starter
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My Unibox did not look like that graph. I used the recommended size from parts express also. I do realize that the excursion is limited down low due to box size, but it was only 2mm down from xmax. As for box size, 2 cu ft is as big as I will go in my trunk.

Also, no boosting for me. Just keeping it flat. I was thinking there would be a sub that would do better in a smaller box with a higher Xmax with the power I have at hand. Just don't know anything of car audio drivers, and the only one I found on parts express that may work is the Titanic as it seems to like smaller boxes.
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post #3 of 6 Old 07-12-2014, 10:38 AM
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may bad! you have a sealed box.


I read too quickly. when you said "tuned to 42hz" I interpreted that as a ported design. deleted the other posts to clean up your thread. sorry man.


your model is accurate.


most of the car audio subs will have lower sensitivity on the top end.


the bottom end is mostly a function of cab size and then power and excursion.


a driver with much more xmax will likely only produce marginal benefits, as your driver can take about 500-600 watts before getting near xmax. to make a noticeable improvement, you might be looking for at least 3db increase in spl, which would require 1200 watts or so of power and a driver with about 22mm of excursion.


and in that case the alpine swr15 could be one option.

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post #4 of 6 Old 07-12-2014, 10:46 AM - Thread Starter
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I see the Titanic is 4 db less sensitive and would require far more power. I would likely see the easiest benefit by adding another woof and just saying screw trunk space. Who needs to to carry groceries...that's what the wife is for
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post #5 of 6 Old 07-12-2014, 11:15 AM
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anyway that you can build a panel in between the trunk and the cabin and effectively use the entire trunk as a sealed enclosure? that would take less space and allow for more bass.

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post #6 of 6 Old 07-12-2014, 06:28 PM - Thread Starter
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I have an IB at home and I was really considering doing the same in the car, but it seems like it would be too difficult (but not impossible) to make it such that I can use my trunk and pass item through to the car cabin when the seats are down. The current box is short enough to utilize almost the entire opening. I'm still considering it though....a baffle hinged at the bottom or some such gadgetry.
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