7 DIY Speakers and 2 DIY Subs HELLLLLLLLP - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
 36Likes
Reply
Thread Tools
post #1 of 251 Old 07-19-2014, 05:48 PM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Yukichon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Fort Collins, CO
Posts: 377
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 120 Post(s)
Liked: 42
7 DIY Speakers and 2 DIY Subs HELLLLLLLLP including the Elusive 1099's

So, that's it, I've decided that I'm going to do the DIY route for my 7.2 setup. I am currently updating my build thread for those interested http://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-dedicated-theater-design-construction/1521068-yuki-s-home-cinema-build-2-uk-usa.html

My new theater room measures roughly 17 x 18. I will be using a Falcon AT screen, and I have an opening behind of roughly 10ft in length and 22" in depth. I am looking for a high quality sound experience, and don't necessarily need super loud, or bass that shakes the rafters loose. I honestly thought my old Kef 3005SE kit sounded fantastic, so this should be a major upgrade.
I have been getting helpful advice from DIY Soundgroup, but frankly I am a little nervous of taking the plunge as I have never attempted anything like this before, so would REALLY appreciate if you AVS'ers would help me through it haha

I still haven't made my final decisions on the speakers but am leaning towards 3 x Elusive 1099's http://www.diysoundgroup.com/fusion-1099.html for the front left-centre-right, and 4 V-10 Volts for the surrounds http://www.diysoundgroup.com/v10-volt-kit.html

As for subs......well.....these Dayton Audio kits http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-15-reference-series-ho-subwoofer-and-cabinet-package--300-7093 or Marty's.....or Stonehenge.....arrrrrgghhhhh, help it's too hard too choose when you are a noob to all this. What I do know is that I want too plate amp, rather than inuke as that's even mire confusing, at least with a plate amp I just plug a coax in and send it back to my receiver, which by the way is a Pioneer SC-1523k

Last edited by Yukichon; 08-28-2014 at 06:57 AM.
Yukichon is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 251 Old 07-19-2014, 05:59 PM
Advanced Member
 
Jeff in Canada's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 563
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 97 Post(s)
Liked: 43
Quote:
Originally Posted by Yukichon View Post
So, that's it, I've decided that I'm going to do the DIY route for my 7.2 setup. I am currently updating my build thread for those interested Yuki's Home Cinema build #2 - UK to USA

My new theater room measures roughly 17 x 18. I will be using a Falcon AT screen, and I have an opening behind of roughly 10ft in length and 22" in depth. I am looking for a high quality sound experience, and don't necessarily need super loud, or bass that shakes the rafters loose. I honestly thought my old Kef 3005SE kit sounded fantastic, so this should be a major upgrade.
I have been getting helpful advice from DIY Soundgroup, but frankly I am a little nervous of taking the plunge as I have never attempted anything like this before, so would REALLY appreciate if you AVS'ers would help me through it haha

I still haven't made my final decisions on the speakers but am leaning towards 3 x Elusive 1099's http://www.diysoundgroup.com/fusion-1099.html for the front left-centre-right, and 4 V-10 Volts for the surrounds http://www.diysoundgroup.com/v10-volt-kit.html

As for subs......well.....these Dayton Audio kits http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-...kage--300-7093 or Marty's.....or Stonehenge.....arrrrrgghhhhh, help it's too hard too choose when you are a noob to all this. What I do know is that I want too plate amp, rather than inuke as that's even mire confusing, at least with a plate amp I just plug a coax in and send it back to my receiver, which by the way is a Pioneer SC-1523k
I don't think you can go wrong with that setup. I have the Dayton Ultimax Subs which are not far off from your choice. I have 3 x Tempests and I like them alot. I've heard good things about the 1099's, but I've not heard them, nor have I seen an GTG's yet to compare them heads up. The 1099 might be better or it might be worse.

Equipment: Denon AVR-4520, Fusion Tempest (LCR), Fusion Alchemy (4xSurrounds+Wides+Heights),15" Dayton Ultimax X 4, SMX 2.35:1 Screen
Theater Build
DIY Speaker / Sub Build
Jeff in Canada is offline  
post #3 of 251 Old 07-19-2014, 06:05 PM
AVS Addicted Member
 
LTD02's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 16,877
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 580 Post(s)
Liked: 1194
"at least with a plate amp I just plug a coax in and send it back to my receiver, which by the way is a Pioneer SC-1523k"
when you put a sub in a room, reflections and resonances creates peaks and dips. eq is almost always necessary. the primary benefit though of the stand alone amp is the sheer power to $.


an inuke 6000dsp was just spotted for $365 delivered. it will output about 4000 'watts' or so. tough to beat that.

Listen. It's All Good.
LTD02 is offline  
post #4 of 251 Old 07-19-2014, 06:12 PM
Senior Member
 
BCRSS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 396
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 98 Post(s)
Liked: 74
Might want to read this thread about what others are saying about the 1099's. I have been chomping at the bit for the impressions of others on the 1099's since I have 3 on route to me. Originally was going for the JTR 228's or the Ascend Horizon's but opted for the 1099's.
Vancouver Summertime GTG Results

Tux's Elusive 1099 (L/C/R)---Ascend CBM-170 SE (surrounds 9.2)---SVS PB 12 Plus---SVS PC 12 Plus---2 DIY 18's sealed--AVR Denon 4520CI---TV Vizio 70---110" Motorized Screen---Epson 8350 Projector---Unraid 32TB Network Storage---Gateway SX 2370 HTPC with 120 SSD
BCRSS is online now  
post #5 of 251 Old 07-19-2014, 07:29 PM
AVS Special Member
 
BassThatHz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: East side of NW Cascades
Posts: 3,371
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 427 Post(s)
Liked: 457
Quote:
Originally Posted by Yukichon View Post
What I do know is that I want too plate amp, rather than inuke
No you don't, the plate amp will be clipping and farting and overheating, the inukeDSP is a much more serious product and is what you want;
especially if you go with HO-18's, which would be even better than the 15's.

The plate amp won't be able to correct peak and dips of room bass-modes, where as the inukeDSP can!
BassThatHz is online now  
post #6 of 251 Old 07-19-2014, 09:15 PM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Yukichon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Fort Collins, CO
Posts: 377
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 120 Post(s)
Liked: 42
Thanks for the replies so far.

To be clear, I appreciate some of you love to have as many watts as possible, but I won't ever use crazy levels of power, so anything over 500 watts is probably overkill.
I am not versed I the dark arts of sub bass waves, control, dips, peaks or any of that jazz, so that is why the inuke route scares me....

Thanks for the link, i will give it a good read now....

How difficult is it to put the crossovers together? I haven't used a soldering iron since school
Yukichon is online now  
post #7 of 251 Old 07-19-2014, 09:55 PM
AVS Special Member
 
A9X-308's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Australia; now run by adults.
Posts: 5,476
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 183 Post(s)
Liked: 117
Quote:
Originally Posted by Yukichon View Post
How difficult is it to put the crossovers together?
Not very. Like everything, take your time, double check, follow the instructions and ask if you're unsure (photo's help).

Quote:
Originally Posted by Yukichon View Post
I haven't used a soldering iron since school
There are plenty of good soldering tutorials on YouTube.
A9X-308 is offline  
post #8 of 251 Old 07-19-2014, 10:13 PM
AVS Special Member
 
BassThatHz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: East side of NW Cascades
Posts: 3,371
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 427 Post(s)
Liked: 457
Quote:
Originally Posted by Yukichon View Post
I am not versed I the dark arts of sub bass waves, control, dips, peaks or any of that jazz, so that is why the inuke route scares me....
Here is an illustration that might be of use.
Lightwaves and soundwaves have several similarities:

1) They both have a fixed speed (more or less)
2) How high or deep the sound is, is measured in Hz (Hertz named after the scientist, and is actually: waves per second or cycles per second)
The word Hz or Frequency is pretty much inter-changeable in meaning.


Low bass can be larger than a house and can travel for miles in every direction with seemingly unstoppable force.
You've probably heard a bass-car zoom by at least once in your life, it shakes everything and your walls/doors/windows don't stop it by very much.



Humans can hear between 20 to 20,000hz.

Bass is basically anything below 200hz. (0Hz to 200hz)

As the Hz decreases the wave size gets bigger and the "note" is deeper sounding.

Loudness is measured in decibels, or db's


Keys on a Piano have a particular Hz as represented. They also have Music Note symbols and are arranged in Octaves.


As you can see a piano covers from 27.5hz (low) to 4186hz (high).

An Octave is a Halving or Doubling of the Hz.
So one Octave above 30hz is 60hz, one below is 15Hz.

Here is a youtube video of a bass frequency sweep, skipping in 5hz increments, to give you an idea of what that sounds like.

A room-mode is basically where the size of the wave matches the size of the room. Floor to Ceiling, Front to Back or Side to Side. Usually people have 3 primary room-modes.
Since peoples rooms aren't perfect cubes or Spheres, the distances between walls will vary and the Frequency/Hz of the bass wave that fits between them with also vary by the same amount.

The speed of sound is 1125 feet per second or 343 meters per second (it actually varies by altitude and temperature but lets not go there).
So for a room that is 20ft wide, that room mode will be 1125fps / 20ft = 56.25hz.
The half-wave and quater-wave modes will be at 1125 / 20 * 2 = 112.5hz and 1125 / 20 * 4 = 225hz

Bass at these frequencies will sound quieter or louder depending on if you are located at the peak or dip of the waveform.

You can visit this website and type in the size of your room and hit go, and it will do all the math for you.
http://www.bobgolds.com/Mode/RoomModes.htm

Sound will travel 20ft in 0.018 seconds (20ft / 1125fps), in case you are wondering, (1 / 56.25hz gives the same number).
There will be 56 peaks and dips within that 20ft span. Yikes! You can see how that is a problem for higher bass notes.

If you play a constant bass note from your sub, say 100hz and walk around the room, you will probably notice some variations in the loudness (or db's).
This is bad if it lands directly on the theater seats, unfortunately it is also unavoidable, EQ/DSP systems can only "help to a degree" to smooth it out, it won't be perfectly flat unless you are playing bass in a wide open field where it can only reflect once off the ground. But without EQ it can often sound horrid, especially if you have less than 4 subs.
As you add 1 sub near each corner of the room the peaks and dips tend to smooth out to a degree, much better than just 1 sub.

and that concludes Lesson #1 for today.

For more information, you'll want to download Room EQ Wizard (REW) and read as many AVS and google articles about it as you can; as they cover basically everything you'd need to know.
Don't buy any gear for it, just read and learn.
http://www.roomeqwizard.com/

You'll also want to download and install the iNukeDSP software and user manual.
You don't need the amp to play around with its screens.
http://www.behringerdownload.de/iNuk...nnect_V1.4.zip

I'd recommend you read the user manual in it's entirety firstly:
http://www.behringer.com/assets/NU60...00DSP_M_EN.pdf
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Lightwave.png
Views:	1741
Size:	178.2 KB
ID:	171058  

Last edited by BassThatHz; 07-20-2014 at 07:10 PM.
BassThatHz is online now  
post #9 of 251 Old 07-20-2014, 07:00 AM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Yukichon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Fort Collins, CO
Posts: 377
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 120 Post(s)
Liked: 42
Wow....thanks for taking the time to give me such an informed insightful response. It's certainly helped my understanding
Yukichon is online now  
post #10 of 251 Old 07-20-2014, 07:14 AM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Yukichon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Fort Collins, CO
Posts: 377
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 120 Post(s)
Liked: 42
I have another question. Which the subs should I go with ported or sealed?
Yukichon is online now  
post #11 of 251 Old 07-20-2014, 09:10 AM
Advanced Member
 
tential's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 623
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 33 Post(s)
Liked: 45
Just wanted to clarify for you that an inuke (or any power amp) for that matter is not hard to hook up at all.

You plug your receiver into the inuke and then plug the inuke into the subwoofer.
Really easy, I'm a complete noob and I figured it out. It's 2 cords lol.

You don't have to know anything special to setup the inuke. If you want to go that type of route there is the option available, but I didn't because I just don't know anything about it yet. I will learn later though hopefully.

And you'd rather have power and not use it, then not have the power at all.
tential is offline  
post #12 of 251 Old 07-20-2014, 09:55 AM
AVS Addicted Member
 
Mfusick's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Western MA
Posts: 24,590
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 210 Post(s)
Liked: 1090
Quote:
Originally Posted by BassThatHz View Post
Here is an illustration that might be of use.
Lightwaves and soundwaves have several similarities:

1) They both have a fixed speed (more or less)
2) How high or deep the sound is, is measured in Hz (Hertz named after the scientist, and is actually: waves per second or cycles per second)
The word Hz or Frequency is pretty much inter-changeable in meaning.


Low bass can be larger than a house and can travel for miles in every direction with seemingly unstoppable force.
You've probably heard a bass-car zoom by at least once in your life, it shakes everything and your walls/doors/windows don't stop it by very much.



Humans can hear between 20 to 20,000hz.

Bass is basically anything below 200hz. (0Hz to 200hz)

As the Hz decreases the wave size gets bigger and the "note" is deeper sounding.

Loudness is measured in decibels, or db's


Keys on a Piano have a particular Hz as represented. They also have Music Note symbols and are arranged in Octaves.


As you can see a piano covers from 27.5hz (low) to 4186hz (high).

An Octave is a Halving or Doubling of the Hz.
So one Octave above 30hz is 60hz, one below is 15Hz.

Here is a youtube video of a bass frequency sweep, skipping in 5hz increments, to give you an idea of what that sounds like.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ukQ6OSs3dWo

A room-mode is basically where the size of the wave matches the size of the room. Floor to Ceiling, Front to Back or Side to Side. Usually people have 3 primary room-modes.
Since peoples rooms aren't perfect cubes or Spheres, the distances between walls will vary and the Frequency/Hz of the bass wave that fits between them with also vary by the same amount.

The speed of sound is 1125 feet per second or 343 meters per second (it actually varies by altitude and temperature but lets no go there).
So for a room that is 20ft wide, that room mode will be 1125fps / 20ft = 56.25hz.
The half-wave and quater-wave modes will be at 1125 / 20 * 2 = 112.5hz and 1125 / 20 * 4 = 225hz

Bass at these frequencies will sound quieter or louder depending on if you are located at the peak or dip of the waveform.

You can visit this website and type in the size of your room and hit go, and it will do all the math for you.
http://www.bobgolds.com/Mode/RoomModes.htm

Sound will travel 20ft in 0.018 seconds (20ft / 1125fps), in case you are wondering, (1 / 56.25hz gives the same number).
There will be 56 peaks and dips within that 20ft span. Yikes! You can see how that is a problem for higher bass notes.

If you play a constant bass note from your sub, say 100hz and walk around the room, you will probably notice some variations in the loudest (or db's).
This is bad if it lands directly on the theater seats, unfortunately it is also unavoidable, EQ/DSP systems can only "help to a degree" to smooth it out, it won't be perfectly flat unless you are playing bass in a wide open field where it can only reflect once off the ground. But without EQ it can often sound horrid, especially if you have less than 4 subs.
As you add 1 sub near each corner of the room the peaks and dips tend to smooth out to a degree, much better than just 1 sub.

and that concludes Lesson #1 for today.

For more information, you'll want to download Room EQ Wizard (REW) and read as many AVS and google articles about it as you can; as they cover basically everything you'd need to know.
Don't buy any gear for it, just read and learn.
http://www.roomeqwizard.com/

You'll also want to download and install the iNukeDSP software and user manual.
You don't need the amp to play around with its screens.
http://www.behringerdownload.de/iNuk...nnect_V1.4.zip

I'd recommend you read the user manual in it's entirety firstly:
http://www.behringer.com/assets/NU60...00DSP_M_EN.pdf
Strong post is very strong !

You should expand this a bit and make it it's very own thread as class 101 by bassthathz. It's sticky worthy. Well done. Loved you time and effort to include examples and illustrations. Even if you know this stuff it's still nice to see it.
BacHolz, wvu80 and m1ghtyun1t like this.

-

"Too much is almost enough. Anything in life worth doing is worth overdoing. Moderation is for cowards."
Mfusick is online now  
post #13 of 251 Old 07-20-2014, 10:00 AM
AVS Addicted Member
 
Mfusick's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Western MA
Posts: 24,590
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 210 Post(s)
Liked: 1090
Quote:
Originally Posted by Yukichon View Post
I have another question. Which the subs should I go with ported or sealed?
Ported is louder and kicks you in the ass harder. Sealed is not as much output but smooth, good power handling, and better low frequency extension.

Basically with ported you are exchanging output below port tune for increased output at port tune, and near it above it. You'd have to define your budget and size constraints and desired output levels to get a real clear answer. You'd need a ton of watts, amps, and expensive drivers to get great SPL output with sealed. If you have the budget the results can be awesome.

If you want the same output for less cost and less amps and drivers then ported is your choice. But ported boxes are usually bigger than sealed enclosures.

Size
Cost
SPL

^you can only pick 2.

-

"Too much is almost enough. Anything in life worth doing is worth overdoing. Moderation is for cowards."
Mfusick is online now  
post #14 of 251 Old 07-20-2014, 10:35 AM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Yukichon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Fort Collins, CO
Posts: 377
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 120 Post(s)
Liked: 42
Haha...this is what I mean, the DIY route brings up so many interesting questions and answers, it's like opening a can of worms!
,y space behind the AT screen is limited to 22" in depth, so that will help we with my sub choices...I'm leaning towards the 15" Dayton Audio kit from parts express but think they are sealed. the DIY Soundgroup Stonehenge beast dimensions are going to be too big me thinks.....so what about Marty's?

Another question....with an iNuke powered sub, what lead do I run from the sub to the inuke?
Yukichon is online now  
post #15 of 251 Old 07-20-2014, 11:45 AM
AVS Addicted Member
 
Mfusick's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Western MA
Posts: 24,590
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 210 Post(s)
Liked: 1090
Do have limitations on width or height? You can still go ported and perhaps a bit wider or taller to keep the depth at 22" or less. That's pretty easy to do. Designing the perfect box to fit the perfect driver and combo you pick out is what DIY is about. You'd be surprised how many MFG made subs are a compromise to stay a certain size or what not. No one wants to buy an odd shaped subwoofer, but OTOH if it fits just right behind your screen wall then it's perfect!

"marty" is just a ported sub made with easy to build dimensions (24" / 48") to take good advantage of 4'x8' wood sheets or available pre cut 2' x 4' handi pannels from hardware stores. In a lot of cases using dimensions like these work well because it minimizes the need for cutting and does not waste wood. It just happens to be about the right volume for a good sub too. 24" cube is nice for many.

In you case you can do a ported sub (I don't like calling them "marty" unless it's the specific design from LTD02, there is really only one marty) and keep the depth 22" and either go 30" wide and high, or any combo whatever you wanted. The more volume you have in your box the more boost you'll get at port tune. Ideally you'd want a port tune and boost that provides a combination of a nice flat response and good lower extension. 16hz-21hz is usually a good choice.

If you tell us what you wanted in a perfect world we can design you up something LTD is a pro!

-

"Too much is almost enough. Anything in life worth doing is worth overdoing. Moderation is for cowards."
Mfusick is online now  
post #16 of 251 Old 07-20-2014, 12:11 PM
AVS Addicted Member
 
Mfusick's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Western MA
Posts: 24,590
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 210 Post(s)
Liked: 1090
Vancouver Summertime GTG Results

1099 showed strong ^ Nice choice there.

I'd suggest adding some ported UXL18 subs with a custom cabinet to whatever size fits your spaces best and tune them in the upper teens (17hz)

Done and done.

-

"Too much is almost enough. Anything in life worth doing is worth overdoing. Moderation is for cowards."
Mfusick is online now  
post #17 of 251 Old 07-20-2014, 04:17 PM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Yukichon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Fort Collins, CO
Posts: 377
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 120 Post(s)
Liked: 42
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mfusick View Post
Vancouver Summertime GTG Results

1099 showed strong ^ Nice choice there.

I'd suggest adding some ported UXL18 subs with a custom cabinet to whatever size fits your spaces best and tune them in the upper teens (17hz)

Done and done.
Can't thank everyone enough for the advice so far.....who makes UXL-18's?
Yukichon is online now  
post #18 of 251 Old 07-20-2014, 04:19 PM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Yukichon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Fort Collins, CO
Posts: 377
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 120 Post(s)
Liked: 42
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mfusick View Post
Do have limitations on width or height? You can still go ported and perhaps a bit wider or taller to keep the depth at 22" or less. That's pretty easy to do. Designing the perfect box to fit the perfect driver and combo you pick out is what DIY is about. You'd be surprised how many MFG made subs are a compromise to stay a certain size or what not. No one wants to buy an odd shaped subwoofer, but OTOH if it fits just right behind your screen wall then it's perfect!

"marty" is just a ported sub made with easy to build dimensions (24" / 48") to take good advantage of 4'x8' wood sheets or available pre cut 2' x 4' handi pannels from hardware stores. In a lot of cases using dimensions like these work well because it minimizes the need for cutting and does not waste wood. It just happens to be about the right volume for a good sub too. 24" cube is nice for many.

In you case you can do a ported sub (I don't like calling them "marty" unless it's the specific design from LTD02, there is really only one marty) and keep the depth 22" and either go 30" wide and high, or any combo whatever you wanted. The more volume you have in your box the more boost you'll get at port tune. Ideally you'd want a port tune and boost that provides a combination of a nice flat response and good lower extension. 16hz-21hz is usually a good choice.

If you tell us what you wanted in a perfect world we can design you up something LTD is a pro!
I have a space that is 10ft wide by 8ft high, it's just the depth I'm struggling with. Would love someone to come up with a design that I could either get cut or purchase to suit my space....
Yukichon is online now  
post #19 of 251 Old 07-20-2014, 04:35 PM
AVS Special Member
 
chalugadp's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Posts: 5,689
Mentioned: 25 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1253 Post(s)
Liked: 1182
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mfusick View Post
Do have limitations on width or height? You can still go ported and perhaps a bit wider or taller to keep the depth at 22" or less. That's pretty easy to do. Designing the perfect box to fit the perfect driver and combo you pick out is what DIY is about. You'd be surprised how many MFG made subs are a compromise to stay a certain size or what not. No one wants to buy an odd shaped subwoofer, but OTOH if it fits just right behind your screen wall then it's perfect!

"marty" is just a ported sub made with easy to build dimensions (24" / 48") to take good advantage of 4'x8' wood sheets or available pre cut 2' x 4' handi pannels from hardware stores. In a lot of cases using dimensions like these work well because it minimizes the need for cutting and does not waste wood. It just happens to be about the right volume for a good sub too. 24" cube is nice for many.

In you case you can do a ported sub (I don't like calling them "marty" unless it's the specific design from LTD02, there is really only one marty) and keep the depth 22" and either go 30" wide and high, or any combo whatever you wanted. The more volume you have in your box the more boost you'll get at port tune. Ideally you'd want a port tune and boost that provides a combination of a nice flat response and good lower extension. 16hz-21hz is usually a good choice.

If you tell us what you wanted in a perfect world we can design you up something LTD is a pro!
john has designed the full Marty, minimarty, martycube, and micro-cube. all same principle with different tuning. all his work. I am not sure why people care about name. its easier to recommend a size with a name then give measurements.
chalugadp is online now  
post #20 of 251 Old 07-20-2014, 04:54 PM
Senior Member
 
ClemsonJeeper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Ashburn, VA
Posts: 466
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 121 Post(s)
Liked: 48
Quote:
Originally Posted by Yukichon View Post
Can't thank everyone enough for the advice so far.....who makes UXL-18's?
http://www.istonline.ca/mach5_uxl_18.html

My Home Theater Build: The Vortex Theater Build
ClemsonJeeper is offline  
post #21 of 251 Old 07-20-2014, 05:48 PM
AVS Addicted Member
 
Mfusick's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Western MA
Posts: 24,590
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 210 Post(s)
Liked: 1090
Quote:
Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post
john has designed the full Marty, minimarty, martycube, and micro-cube. all same principle with different tuning. all his work. I am not sure why people care about name. its easier to recommend a size with a name then give measurements.
No disrespect to John or anyone else... not at all intended. I just think that if you(anyone) design a ported box to fit his space custom it's not a "marty" anymore.

But you could use the same design principles for tuning and volume and what not.

-

"Too much is almost enough. Anything in life worth doing is worth overdoing. Moderation is for cowards."
Mfusick is online now  
post #22 of 251 Old 07-20-2014, 05:50 PM
AVS Addicted Member
 
Mfusick's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Western MA
Posts: 24,590
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 210 Post(s)
Liked: 1090
Quote:
Originally Posted by Yukichon View Post
I have a space that is 10ft wide by 8ft high, it's just the depth I'm struggling with. Would love someone to come up with a design that I could either get cut or purchase to suit my space....
Give me time I'll try to help out. I'm not home now. What ideally would be your width or height?

I'll assume a firm 22" high... yes ? 22" high will work fine, perhaps 30" wide and tall ? Or 22" high, 24" wide and 42" tall ? You take a ton of shapes and options. Taller or wider or even for both ?

-

"Too much is almost enough. Anything in life worth doing is worth overdoing. Moderation is for cowards."
Mfusick is online now  
post #23 of 251 Old 07-20-2014, 07:20 PM
AVS Special Member
 
BassThatHz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: East side of NW Cascades
Posts: 3,371
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 427 Post(s)
Liked: 457
Quote:
Originally Posted by Yukichon View Post
Another question....with an iNuke powered sub, what lead do I run from the sub to the inuke?
Speakon, you'll need two of these for each sub. So both channels would be 4.
http://www.parts-express.com/neutrik...mount--092-050

You'll also need one of these for each sub-box.
http://www.parts-express.com/neutrik...mount--092-054

To go between the AVR and inuke, you'll need one of these:
http://www.parts-express.com/peavey-...able--241-5676
BassThatHz is online now  
post #24 of 251 Old 07-20-2014, 07:46 PM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Yukichon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Fort Collins, CO
Posts: 377
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 120 Post(s)
Liked: 42
Quote:
Originally Posted by ClemsonJeeper View Post
Thanks for the link....$550 each , think I will go with Dayton Audio Reference as I can get two for that price
Yukichon is online now  
post #25 of 251 Old 07-20-2014, 08:05 PM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Yukichon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Fort Collins, CO
Posts: 377
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 120 Post(s)
Liked: 42
Just found out that the Stonehenge sub enclosures are only 16" deep...
Yukichon is online now  
post #26 of 251 Old 07-20-2014, 08:51 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 175
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 57 Post(s)
Liked: 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by Yukichon View Post
So, that's it, I've decided that I'm going to do the DIY route for my 7.2 setup. I am currently updating my build thread for those interested Yuki's Home Cinema build #2 - UK to USA

My new theater room measures roughly 17 x 18. I will be using a Falcon AT screen, and I have an opening behind of roughly 10ft in length and 22" in depth. I am looking for a high quality sound experience, and don't necessarily need super loud, or bass that shakes the rafters loose. I honestly thought my old Kef 3005SE kit sounded fantastic, so this should be a major upgrade.
I have been getting helpful advice from DIY Soundgroup, but frankly I am a little nervous of taking the plunge as I have never attempted anything like this before, so would REALLY appreciate if you AVS'ers would help me through it haha

I still haven't made my final decisions on the speakers but am leaning towards 3 x Elusive 1099's http://www.diysoundgroup.com/fusion-1099.html for the front left-centre-right, and 4 V-10 Volts for the surrounds http://www.diysoundgroup.com/v10-volt-kit.html

As for subs......well.....these Dayton Audio kits http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-...kage--300-7093 or Marty's.....or Stonehenge.....arrrrrgghhhhh, help it's too hard too choose when you are a noob to all this. What I do know is that I want too plate amp, rather than inuke as that's even mire confusing, at least with a plate amp I just plug a coax in and send it back to my receiver, which by the way is a Pioneer SC-1523k
I still haven't made my final decisions on the speakers but am leaning towards 3 x Elusive 1099's http://www.diysoundgroup.com/fusion-1099.html for the front left-centre-right, and 4 V-10 Volts for the surrounds http://www.diysoundgroup.com/v10-volt-kit.html

I just finished my 3 88 specials about a month ago and love them. Very good clarity for low level listening. Rock concert levels? No problem. I always had the opinion my B&W speakers were great and they are but the 88's are better in every way.
Can't say enough good things about the 88's. The 1099's came out after I had the 88's at my house or I would have checked those out too. Looking to recreate the theater experience in your house? You are on the right path.


As for subs......well.....these Dayton Audio kits http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-...kage--300-7093 or Marty's.....or Stonehenge.....arrrrrgghhhhh, help it's too hard too choose when you are a noob to all this. What I do know is that I want too plate amp, rather than inuke as that's even mire confusing, at least with a plate amp I just plug a coax in and send it back to my receiver, which by the way is a Pioneer SC-1523k

I went with 2 sealed 15's and the results were pretty over the top for a normal listener. If I had it to do over again I would probably go with 2 ported 18's in the Stonehenge flat pack. Please keep in mind on this forum overkill is the norm and a system with eight 18's and 12k of power is just getting started with some of these folks. Going from a 15" to a 18" is the best value as for as bass spl for the dollar is concerned plus 18's look very cool. I used 15's because that is what I am used to using and what was in stock when I ordered. I use the Ultimax 15's and they are nice drivers for the money, its the best 15 I have used so far.

I just ordered a epx4000 pro style amp this morning, I choose this model because it has binding posts outputs and rca inputs on the back. The 2500-3000 watts of output won't hurt either, my current amp puts out about 800 watts total and want to max out the amp portion of my sub equation before I start building more cabinets.

You will want some sort of room correction for the sub woofer portion of your build to make it sound its best. Some rooms have some nasty nodes in them that really affect what you hear and how much you can enjoy what you have built. Lot of folks use the dsp built into the inuke and have shared some impressive results. I use an Velodyne Digital EQ and am happy with it, its basically a digital eq that will run itself.
jake515 is online now  
post #27 of 251 Old 07-27-2014, 07:44 PM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Yukichon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Fort Collins, CO
Posts: 377
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 120 Post(s)
Liked: 42
I'm not a happy chap....it seems the 1099's may have sold out already, and I have my heart set on them
Yukichon is online now  
post #28 of 251 Old 07-28-2014, 05:47 AM
Newbie
 
Black adder's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Utah
Posts: 5
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 1
They are called the Elusive 1099's.. They will be back.
Black adder is offline  
post #29 of 251 Old 07-28-2014, 07:33 AM
AVS Special Member
 
mbyrnes's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Media, PA (outside Philly)
Posts: 3,509
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 87 Post(s)
Liked: 183
Quote:
Originally Posted by Yukichon View Post
I'm not a happy chap....it seems the 1099's may have sold out already, and I have my heart set on them
Once I decided to buy the 1099s I was refreshing the page every half hour! They are totally worth the wait. They usually are in stock a couple times a month.

Once you get them built you'll quickly forget how "elusive" they were and struggle to find enough time to enjoy them.
mbyrnes is offline  
post #30 of 251 Old 07-28-2014, 08:45 PM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Yukichon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Fort Collins, CO
Posts: 377
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 120 Post(s)
Liked: 42
1099's in stock and ordered....better order myself some glue and a soldering iron! I'm petrified
Yukichon is online now  
Reply DIY Speakers and Subs

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off