THE ISLAND SHAKER 18" subwoofer Final decisions! - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 85 Old 07-25-2014, 03:22 PM - Thread Starter
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THE ISLAND SHAKER 18" subwoofer Final decisions!

I have to many people to thank! I have been blessed with such amazing help on AVS!! Thank you all, again too many to thank!

This is what I have decided, and a HUGE thanks goes to Bassment, Lot, Donny, erich, marty, MANY MORE!!

Four pieces of 24 " x 48 " (top, bottom, side, side)
Two pieces of 24 " x 19.5 " (double baffle front)
One piece of 24" x 22.5 " (back)
One piece of 24 " x 44 " (port)
Two pieces of 3 " x 44 " ( port braces)
Various 24" x 2", 19.5" x 2" and 22.5" x 2" strips for internal bracing.

This box would be 24" tall, 25.5" wide, 48" long

I would just like a few other peoples opinions on this box size (making sure it makes sense) and tuning point (if someone could tell me the tuning point that would be awesome too lol)
My goal is to have MASSIVE clean bass output.

I will be making 2 of these, and hopefully using them as speaker stands, if not they will be placed behind my TV.

I have my INUKE3000DSP, and pre ordered 2 SI D4 18" subwoofers.
I will also order 2 Neutrik NL4MPR Speakon Connector 4 Pole Round Chassis Mount

I need to know what else I am missing, so I can make the rest of my order ASAP.

Next weekend I will make all the cuts, and hopefully full assembly. Where should I put the speakon connector? I was thinking right at the back middle of the subwoofer. Also how do I connect that to the woofer? What wire do I use? Do I need to solder it? Please let me know

Also when I do get the woofers in and subwoofer completed I will need a bit of assistance hooking the amp up to it, however that part I do not see being difficult for me.

Also when the si woofers are in stock I will be ordering the fusion10s and a quad4. I will contact erich directly for the cutsheets, and I can not see it being to difficult.

Again, I thank you ALL so much!! I will be calling it as the title stats -> The Island shaker -> someone gave me the idea and I feel bad for not remembering who. Anyways, you know who you are, and don't be shy, you deserve credit! Thanks for the awesome name!
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post #2 of 85 Old 07-25-2014, 03:53 PM
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sounds like you are all set. tuning will be around 16hz, which is good. the speakon connector can go where ever you like.

Listen. It's All Good.
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post #3 of 85 Old 07-25-2014, 05:02 PM - Thread Starter
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LTD02 -> In my thanks I called you LOT, my bad it's LTD

What kind of speaker wire do I require for the connection from the speaker to the speakon connection?
Then from the speakon connection to the INUKE what kind of wire do I require?

Thanks a lot dude!!
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post #4 of 85 Old 07-25-2014, 05:22 PM
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any speaker wire will work fine. no smaller wire (i.e. no higher number) than 16 gauge.


from the sub to the inuke, speakon connectors are the way to go.


here is a vid that shows how to wire them up (or you can buy them already wired up).
LOT :-)

Listen. It's All Good.
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post #5 of 85 Old 07-25-2014, 05:58 PM - Thread Starter
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LTD02 -> So I was right the first time hahaha

Can you give me a link to where I can buy them already connected? If not I will buy them separate. What is the best gauge to use? I want to make sure my setup is close to perfect as possible.

Thanks a lot bro!
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post #6 of 85 Old 07-25-2014, 06:26 PM
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It was Mfusick who suggested the name The Island Shaker. He also gave you tons of advice and information throughout all your threads. I learned a lot myself from his posts.

I think we're all just happy and let out a sigh of relief when you didn't name it The Marty Shaker!
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post #7 of 85 Old 07-25-2014, 06:35 PM - Thread Starter
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Boxozaxu and Mfusick -> 2 more names I have forgot to thank for going above the standard call of duty. I really appreciate the help and input guys!! Thanks a lot!!

The main reason I and Bassment though this was the best build for me is I really didnt want to make an L slot... I was worried air would leak through and it wouldn't be flush. The single slot for me, I think will make it a lot easier. It was difficult for me to wrap my head around a L slot.

I hope this does not change the performance, and I'm excited to get started. I just need the final thing -> a link to buy the pre assembled speakon cables.

If someone could post the link that would be fantastic!

Again sorry for missing some very important contributors, and I can't wait till next weekend to get started!!

I will post lots of pics, and updates regarding the progression!!

OH!! And one more huge thing I need to determine, can I use a DRILL instead of clamps or nail gun?
As well what glue and caulking do I use? Or do I just use glue?
And what do I stuff it with and how much?

So many things hahahaha, my apologies!!

God bless!
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post #8 of 85 Old 07-25-2014, 06:39 PM
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Smitty,

Looking forward to watching your progress..

How long do you think it will take u for everything, a day, a week, a month. ?
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post #9 of 85 Old 07-25-2014, 06:45 PM - Thread Starter
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kevings -> ANOTHER I FORGOT!! Thank you for the help and suggestions.

My friend who is helping me with the cuts, says he can cut everything in less than one hour with his table saw. It will take me an hour to get all the wood. To assemble if I can use a drill with the glue and I think I need to use caulking as well, I would think that will take another say 2-3 hours. I am hoping the boxes will be completed within a day, if not the weekend.

Also the speakon thing, is kind of confusing for me... That may take a bit of time as well... But I am confident one weekend for both boxes, then I will wait for the SI woofers to come in.
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post #10 of 85 Old 07-25-2014, 06:51 PM - Thread Starter
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One thing I noticed, and I may be wrong, but I think the top and bottom panel needs to be 25.5 wide...

I say this because the subwoofer will be 25.5 wide total. So the top and bottom panel would need to be 25.5 wide... Am I correct? If this is correct I believe the slot would need to be 25.5 wide as well....

Or... Potential the back would need to be 22.5 x 22.5?

I think I may just be confusing myself...

Someone pitch in if they can...

Thanks!
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post #11 of 85 Old 07-25-2014, 06:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smittyfit View Post
kevings -> ANOTHER I FORGOT!! Thank you for the help and suggestions.

My friend who is helping me with the cuts, says he can cut everything in less than one hour with his table saw. It will take me an hour to get all the wood. To assemble if I can use a drill with the glue and I think I need to use caulking as well, I would think that will take another say 2-3 hours. I am hoping the boxes will be completed within a day, if not the weekend.

Also the speakon thing, is kind of confusing for me... That may take a bit of time as well... But I am confident one weekend for both boxes, then I will wait for the SI woofers to come in.
I can put together a box in two hours start to finish but I've done it a dozen times. Will probably take 5-6 hours first time, including putting lining, and prepping for a finish.
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post #12 of 85 Old 07-25-2014, 06:58 PM - Thread Starter
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chalugadp -> Ok, I take it back it will take me all weekend lol, because you are WAY better with wood working than I am, and my friend put together!!

Could someone check my cutlist, I KNOW something is off... I wrote it all down on paper and it does not seem correct, or I'm just confusing myself.

Thank you!
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post #13 of 85 Old 07-25-2014, 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Smittyfit View Post
chalugadp -> Ok, I take it back it will take me all weekend lol, because you are WAY better with wood working than I am, and my friend put together!!

Could someone check my cutlist, I KNOW something is off... I wrote it all down on paper and it does not seem correct, or I'm just confusing myself.

Thank you!
Oh by the way the brad nailer speeds up the build by 100%. Don't have to wait for glue to dry to keep going.
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post #14 of 85 Old 07-25-2014, 07:06 PM - Thread Starter
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chalugadp -> Can I not just use a drill with screws instead????
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post #15 of 85 Old 07-25-2014, 07:09 PM - Thread Starter
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Ok I'm an idiot, the cutsheet is perfect lol... I figured it out!!!

Now I just need to know where to buy the pre assembled speakon connection (the thing that wires my woofer/driver to the connection thing that then feeds into my inuke... wow I'm so noob hahaha, I hope you guys understand this type of language)

And I need to know what type of wood glue I need (I will be using MDF), and I need to know if I have to use caulking as well.

AAAAAAND can I use a drill instead of the nailer?

THANK YOU!!
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post #16 of 85 Old 07-25-2014, 07:34 PM
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chalugadp -> Can I not just use a drill with screws instead????
With MDF screw's can be tricky. They will slip in the hole if you don't know what your doing. Use as few as possible but spend the money and get a brad nailer. You will be assembling a lot of boxes.
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post #17 of 85 Old 07-25-2014, 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by chalugadp
With MDF screw's can be tricky. They will slip in the hole if you don't know what your doing.
What if, say, you don't know what you're doing but you're using screws to secure a UXL-18 to an MDF enclosure? What's the secret to not making a mess of it?
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post #18 of 85 Old 07-25-2014, 07:44 PM
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What if, say, you don't know what you're doing but you're using screws to secure a UXL-18 to an MDF enclosure? What's the secret to not making a mess of it?
For you with all that power and sealed I would recommend glueing plywood blocks behind where you are going to screw in. 8 blocks, and you won't have any issues.

Otherwise don't predrill, go slow with drill, and use #8 by 1.25" screws. Make sure you put screws in like bolts on a tire. Opposites.
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post #19 of 85 Old 07-25-2014, 07:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chalugadp
For you with all that power and sealed I would recommend glueing plywood blocks behind where you are going to screw in. 8 blocks, and you won't have any issues.

Otherwise don't predrill, go slow with drill, and use #8 by 1.25" screws. Make sure you put screws in like bolts on a tire. Opposites.
Not sure I want to start glueing stuff into the enclosures (and, anyway, I don't have any clamps), so I'll just go easy with the drill and not pre-drill. Thanks.
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post #20 of 85 Old 07-25-2014, 07:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post
For you with all that power and sealed I would recommend glueing plywood blocks behind where you are going to screw in. 8 blocks, and you won't have any issues.

Otherwise don't predrill, go slow with drill, and use #8 by 1.25" screws. Make sure you put screws in like bolts on a tire. Opposites.
Good advice. The blocks behind where u will screw works perfect.

Also , check mono price or amazon for your speakon connectors.
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post #21 of 85 Old 07-25-2014, 07:54 PM
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Not sure I want to start glueing stuff into the enclosures (and, anyway, I don't have any clamps), so I'll just go easy with the drill and not pre-drill. Thanks.
Don't need clamps. With a 1" by 1" block you can just use duct tape and glue. Try it without , but if screws slip then the blocks help.
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post #22 of 85 Old 07-25-2014, 08:06 PM
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So as to not clutter up this thread any further (sorry, OP!), I'll take my reply and follow-up question here.
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post #23 of 85 Old 07-25-2014, 08:11 PM
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Good info for Smitty as well.
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post #24 of 85 Old 07-26-2014, 05:35 AM - Thread Starter
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eljaycanuck -> This is our thread. Please stay here. I need ALL the info I can get.

chalugadp -> So if I use screws I need to go VERY slow? The problem with screws is if they slip? And I need to use #8 by 1.25" screws.

Can I just use duck tape in replace of the clamps lol?

The problem with the nailer is then I need a compressor lol... Also my house has no room for any tools... Hrmmm... How much will the nailer and compressor cost?

Thanks Donny!!
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post #25 of 85 Old 07-26-2014, 09:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Smittyfit View Post
eljaycanuck -> This is our thread. Please stay here. I need ALL the info I can get.

chalugadp -> So if I use screws I need to go VERY slow? The problem with screws is if they slip? And I need to use #8 by 1.25" screws.

Can I just use duck tape in replace of the clamps lol?

The problem with the nailer is then I need a compressor lol... Also my house has no room for any tools... Hrmmm... How much will the nailer and compressor cost?

Thanks Donny!!
Hi Smitty,

I believe Chaluga's suggestion of 1 1/4" screws, not pre-drilling, and going slow may have been referring to attaching the driver to the front baffle...

If you plan to use screws & glue for the construction of the box itself, you will need longer screws and pre-drilling will help significantly with ensuring the panels don't split and they align properly. If you are using 3/4" MDF, you will want to use either 1 1/2" or 1 3/4" construction screws. Ideally, you want screws that are threaded at the tip, but not the top; this variety is more effective at 'pulling' the two panels together tightly while the glue dries, than screws that are fully threaded.

-Philip-

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post #26 of 85 Old 07-26-2014, 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Smittyfit View Post
eljaycanuck -> This is our thread. Please stay here. I need ALL the info I can get.

chalugadp -> So if I use screws I need to go VERY slow? The problem with screws is if they slip? And I need to use #8 by 1.25" screws.

Can I just use duck tape in replace of the clamps lol?

The problem with the nailer is then I need a compressor lol... Also my house has no room for any tools... Hrmmm... How much will the nailer and compressor cost?

Thanks Donny!!
About two turns of the screw per second. What happens to MDF us it tears out and then the screw has nothing to grip. Duct tape could work if the cuts are precise. It won't close gaps. Compressor and nailer from harbor freight is $100 but I don't know on the island.
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post #27 of 85 Old 07-26-2014, 09:30 AM
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It was Mfusick who suggested the name The Island Shaker. He also gave you tons of advice and information throughout all your threads. I learned a lot myself from his posts.

I think we're all just happy and let out a sigh of relief when you didn't name it The Marty Shaker!

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"Too much is almost enough. Anything in life worth doing is worth overdoing. Moderation is for cowards."
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post #28 of 85 Old 07-26-2014, 09:34 AM
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I like using brad nailer as a permanent clamp. If you can have a helper position the peice before you shoot it then it's easiest and fastest method. You still glue the same as if you use clamps except the brads are like permanent clamps.

Big clamps are tough to use on four foot speaker boxes anyways and most don't have enough or big enough clamps anyways.

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"Too much is almost enough. Anything in life worth doing is worth overdoing. Moderation is for cowards."
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post #29 of 85 Old 07-26-2014, 09:48 AM - Thread Starter
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Ok, what if I use PINE for the cabs?

What ALL wood can be used to make the cab that will allow me to use a drill instead of the nail gun? That way I can contact the local lumbar yard and see what I can get.

To give you an idea of the prices here... A george forman grill that cost $30 u.s. cost us $750 E.C. local here... divide the price by 2.6 to get your currency... The nailer here will cost no less than about $1000 my money. I do not think it is an option to get the nailer If I must, this project will have to be put on hold for another year for me to accumulate the additional funds.
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post #30 of 85 Old 07-26-2014, 09:50 AM - Thread Starter
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What if I just use a hammer?
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