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THE ISLAND SHAKER 18" subwoofer Final decisions!

4K views 84 replies 11 participants last post by  Bassment 
#1 ·
I have to many people to thank! I have been blessed with such amazing help on AVS!! Thank you all, again too many to thank!

This is what I have decided, and a HUGE thanks goes to Bassment, Lot, Donny, erich, marty, MANY MORE!!

Four pieces of 24 " x 48 " (top, bottom, side, side)
Two pieces of 24 " x 19.5 " (double baffle front)
One piece of 24" x 22.5 " (back)
One piece of 24 " x 44 " (port)
Two pieces of 3 " x 44 " ( port braces)
Various 24" x 2", 19.5" x 2" and 22.5" x 2" strips for internal bracing.

This box would be 24" tall, 25.5" wide, 48" long

I would just like a few other peoples opinions on this box size (making sure it makes sense) and tuning point (if someone could tell me the tuning point that would be awesome too lol)
My goal is to have MASSIVE clean bass output.

I will be making 2 of these, and hopefully using them as speaker stands, if not they will be placed behind my TV.

I have my INUKE3000DSP, and pre ordered 2 SI D4 18" subwoofers.
I will also order 2 Neutrik NL4MPR Speakon Connector 4 Pole Round Chassis Mount

I need to know what else I am missing, so I can make the rest of my order ASAP.

Next weekend I will make all the cuts, and hopefully full assembly. Where should I put the speakon connector? I was thinking right at the back middle of the subwoofer. Also how do I connect that to the woofer? What wire do I use? Do I need to solder it? Please let me know

Also when I do get the woofers in and subwoofer completed I will need a bit of assistance hooking the amp up to it, however that part I do not see being difficult for me.

Also when the si woofers are in stock I will be ordering the fusion10s and a quad4. I will contact erich directly for the cutsheets, and I can not see it being to difficult.

Again, I thank you ALL so much!! I will be calling it as the title stats -> The Island shaker -> someone gave me the idea and I feel bad for not remembering who. Anyways, you know who you are, and don't be shy, you deserve credit! Thanks for the awesome name!
 
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#3 ·
LTD02 -> In my thanks I called you LOT, my bad it's LTD :)

What kind of speaker wire do I require for the connection from the speaker to the speakon connection?
Then from the speakon connection to the INUKE what kind of wire do I require?

Thanks a lot dude!!
 
#4 ·
any speaker wire will work fine. no smaller wire (i.e. no higher number) than 16 gauge.


from the sub to the inuke, speakon connectors are the way to go.


here is a vid that shows how to wire them up (or you can buy them already wired up).

LOT :)
 
#5 ·
LTD02 -> So I was right the first time hahaha

Can you give me a link to where I can buy them already connected? If not I will buy them separate. What is the best gauge to use? I want to make sure my setup is close to perfect as possible.

Thanks a lot bro!
 
#7 ·
Boxozaxu and Mfusick -> 2 more names I have forgot to thank for going above the standard call of duty. I really appreciate the help and input guys!! Thanks a lot!!

The main reason I and Bassment though this was the best build for me is I really didnt want to make an L slot... I was worried air would leak through and it wouldn't be flush. The single slot for me, I think will make it a lot easier. It was difficult for me to wrap my head around a L slot.

I hope this does not change the performance, and I'm excited to get started. I just need the final thing -> a link to buy the pre assembled speakon cables.

If someone could post the link that would be fantastic!

Again sorry for missing some very important contributors, and I can't wait till next weekend to get started!!

I will post lots of pics, and updates regarding the progression!!

OH!! And one more huge thing I need to determine, can I use a DRILL instead of clamps or nail gun?
As well what glue and caulking do I use? Or do I just use glue?
And what do I stuff it with and how much?

So many things hahahaha, my apologies!!

God bless!
 
#9 ·
kevings -> ANOTHER I FORGOT!! Thank you for the help and suggestions.

My friend who is helping me with the cuts, says he can cut everything in less than one hour with his table saw. It will take me an hour to get all the wood. To assemble if I can use a drill with the glue and I think I need to use caulking as well, I would think that will take another say 2-3 hours. I am hoping the boxes will be completed within a day, if not the weekend.

Also the speakon thing, is kind of confusing for me... That may take a bit of time as well... But I am confident one weekend for both boxes, then I will wait for the SI woofers to come in.
 
#10 ·
One thing I noticed, and I may be wrong, but I think the top and bottom panel needs to be 25.5 wide...

I say this because the subwoofer will be 25.5 wide total. So the top and bottom panel would need to be 25.5 wide... Am I correct? If this is correct I believe the slot would need to be 25.5 wide as well....

Or... Potential the back would need to be 22.5 x 22.5?

I think I may just be confusing myself...

Someone pitch in if they can...

Thanks!
 
#12 ·
chalugadp -> Ok, I take it back it will take me all weekend lol, because you are WAY better with wood working than I am, and my friend put together!!

Could someone check my cutlist, I KNOW something is off... I wrote it all down on paper and it does not seem correct, or I'm just confusing myself.

Thank you!
 
#15 ·
Ok I'm an idiot, the cutsheet is perfect lol... I figured it out!!!

Now I just need to know where to buy the pre assembled speakon connection (the thing that wires my woofer/driver to the connection thing that then feeds into my inuke... wow I'm so noob hahaha, I hope you guys understand this type of language)

And I need to know what type of wood glue I need (I will be using MDF), and I need to know if I have to use caulking as well.

AAAAAAND can I use a drill instead of the nailer?

THANK YOU!!
 
#18 ·
For you with all that power and sealed I would recommend glueing plywood blocks behind where you are going to screw in. 8 blocks, and you won't have any issues.

Otherwise don't predrill, go slow with drill, and use #8 by 1.25" screws. Make sure you put screws in like bolts on a tire. Opposites.
 
#19 ·
chalugadp said:
For you with all that power and sealed I would recommend glueing plywood blocks behind where you are going to screw in. 8 blocks, and you won't have any issues.

Otherwise don't predrill, go slow with drill, and use #8 by 1.25" screws. Make sure you put screws in like bolts on a tire. Opposites.
Not sure I want to start glueing stuff into the enclosures (and, anyway, I don't have any clamps), so I'll just go easy with the drill and not pre-drill. Thanks. :)
 
#24 ·
eljaycanuck -> This is our thread. Please stay here. I need ALL the info I can get.

chalugadp -> So if I use screws I need to go VERY slow? The problem with screws is if they slip? And I need to use #8 by 1.25" screws.

Can I just use duck tape in replace of the clamps lol?

The problem with the nailer is then I need a compressor lol... Also my house has no room for any tools... Hrmmm... How much will the nailer and compressor cost?

Thanks Donny!!
 
#25 ·
eljaycanuck -> This is our thread. Please stay here. I need ALL the info I can get.

chalugadp -> So if I use screws I need to go VERY slow? The problem with screws is if they slip? And I need to use #8 by 1.25" screws.

Can I just use duck tape in replace of the clamps lol?

The problem with the nailer is then I need a compressor lol... Also my house has no room for any tools... Hrmmm... How much will the nailer and compressor cost?

Thanks Donny!!
Hi Smitty,

I believe Chaluga's suggestion of 1 1/4" screws, not pre-drilling, and going slow may have been referring to attaching the driver to the front baffle...

If you plan to use screws & glue for the construction of the box itself, you will need longer screws and pre-drilling will help significantly with ensuring the panels don't split and they align properly. If you are using 3/4" MDF, you will want to use either 1 1/2" or 1 3/4" construction screws. Ideally, you want screws that are threaded at the tip, but not the top; this variety is more effective at 'pulling' the two panels together tightly while the glue dries, than screws that are fully threaded.

-Philip-
 
#28 ·
I like using brad nailer as a permanent clamp. If you can have a helper position the peice before you shoot it then it's easiest and fastest method. You still glue the same as if you use clamps except the brads are like permanent clamps.

Big clamps are tough to use on four foot speaker boxes anyways and most don't have enough or big enough clamps anyways.
 
#29 ·
Ok, what if I use PINE for the cabs?

What ALL wood can be used to make the cab that will allow me to use a drill instead of the nail gun? That way I can contact the local lumbar yard and see what I can get.

To give you an idea of the prices here... A george forman grill that cost $30 u.s. cost us $750 E.C. local here... divide the price by 2.6 to get your currency... The nailer here will cost no less than about $1000 my money. I do not think it is an option to get the nailer :( If I must, this project will have to be put on hold for another year for me to accumulate the additional funds.
 
#32 ·
Although a brad nailer is much faster and more efficient, if that is not an option, you can use glue and screws with MDF no problem. You definitely do not want to use pine, or any other 'non-sheet' form of wood. MDF or Birch-ply is the way to go (with MDF being less expensive, at least in the US anyway).

The screws only have to hold the joints tight until the glue fully cures. You can even remove the screws after the glue dries if you want to simplify the finishing process (if removing the screws, you don't need to counter-sink them, have smaller holes to fill with putty, and can put round-overs on the edges without worry of hitting screws or brads with the bit). The screws are basically acting as an alternative to multiple large clamps.

MDF's biggest weakness is its tendency to split, particularly towards the ends of the edges of the panels you are screwing into. I'm not referring to screwing perpendicularly through a flat piece near the boundary of the panel; I mean the the 3/4" wide edge you screw into to attach the flat piece.

You can reduce the risk of splitting by staying at least an 1 1/2" away from the edge and pre-drilling with a bit that is the same (or SLIGHTLY smaller) diameter as the shaft of the screws you are using. By doing this, it is only the threads themselves that are 'biting' into the MDF, rather than the shaft of the screw acting as a wedge and potentially splitting the wood. This applies to the construction of the box; not attaching the driver. You will want to follow Chaluga's advice of not pre-drilling, going slow, and using a 'star' type pattern for attaching the driver.

I guess the primary purpose of my post is to say, you do not need to be overly apprehensive about using the glue and screw method of construction with MDF. It just takes longer and is less efficient than using an air compressor and brad nailer (especially if you have a lot of boxes to build).

But, it is definitely better than delaying your build for a year, to save up more $. :)
 
#34 ·
I made a sub with 2" wood screws and glue before, I bet it took 25 hours. You have to predrill every home or the MDF will crack and split. It is just as strong in the end as any other method it just takes way longer. If your making two large sub's and 3 speakers, I really suggest trying to get a brad nailer, electric one are cheaper than a compressor maybe. Or find one you can borrow or something. It will take soooo long to make those boxes out of screws.

For wire I'd use all 12 gauge speaker wire
 
#35 ·
Hrmmmm.. Can someone pass me a link for the cheapest nail gun solution?

No one on this island uses nail guns as nothing here is built with wood. I will see what I can swing. I think one with no compressor might be the cheapest bet. But again, I want your guys input as you will know what the perfect solution will be.

Thanks guys!

I will use 12 gauge speaker wire for everything.
 
#37 · (Edited)
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