Bills Elusive 1099 build (if I can nab 3) - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 80 Old 07-28-2014, 11:05 AM - Thread Starter
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Bill's Elusive 1099 build

First I want to thank Erich and Tux for all their hard work. I want to thank Erich for putting up with me.

I am replacing my curent set up with 3 of Tux's 1099s. I had 3 on the hook but they got away. I finaly landed 3. I am using a Seymour DIY screen and my current speakers are BOSE 301s and VSC 10 center. They are small enough to put above the frame and the tweeter is a little higher than the first row ears.

First row is 10'6" from screen. Screen is 24" from wall treated with 1 1/2" mineral wool. the height of ears when reclined is 38" give or take (I am 6' tall) the frame is 5" thick so bottom edge 29" from floor and inside edge being 34" from floor. (there is an 8" stage and the frame is 21" higher)

they arrived




only opened the top box everything looked good but instead of the packing noodels everyone else had I had square peanuts.

Great Job @Eric H

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post #2 of 80 Old 07-28-2014, 11:05 AM - Thread Starter
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post #3 of 80 Old 07-28-2014, 11:23 AM
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As a past owner of 301s, you're going to $hit when you get these! Height of them is what you need them to be for your spot.

Mine currently sit on 18" stands. That was for my room and seating. Just try to get the horn at or slightly above seating height.

Good luck!
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post #4 of 80 Old 07-28-2014, 11:41 AM - Thread Starter
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thanks Burns my WAF seems to think they are good to go but my entire family are always saying turn it down. I think due to distortion more than anything a clean efficient speaker like the 1099 would change that. As you see I have 1/2" mineral wool on entire front wall with 17x17x24" mineral wool stacked 6' tall in the front corners which defeats the purpose of direct reflecting speakers like the 301s
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post #5 of 80 Old 07-28-2014, 11:47 AM
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Distortion, killer of a good time, lol. I sometimes can't believe how loud I am listening to my system. It just sounds so good, then I pull out the meter and it's 110db, lol.
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post #6 of 80 Old 07-28-2014, 11:56 AM
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Hey Bill,

I have followed your Retirement build and your DIY modified version of BIG's minimalist wall. I just received my 1099 parts as well, so I'll be following with interest. In particular I'll be interested in hearing your impressions of the speakers behind your Seymour screen. Thanks for being a pioneer for me

Robert
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post #7 of 80 Old 07-28-2014, 12:40 PM - Thread Starter
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I have it on good authority Big Foot has landed and there are only 9 left. Ask me how I know



And the good ole Oompa Loompas:


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post #8 of 80 Old 07-28-2014, 12:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cw5billwade View Post
I have it on good authority Big Foot has landed and there are only 6 left. Ask me how I know



And the good ole Oompa Loompas:

How many did you get ?
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post #9 of 80 Old 07-28-2014, 01:20 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post
How many did you get ?
LOL I got 3 I should have said 9 left I guess yours make it 8. Glade you checked in I was think of putting them on a Marty but I need him26" tall would building with the sides, rear, and front panel sitting onthe bottom and top sitting on them hurt anything? That would give me another11/2" making them 25 1/2" and I ordered some 1/2" rubber feet from PE. I only have 24" back there so they would need to be about 22" deep so a box that is 24"x25 1/2" x 22". Would that work for the daton 15" driver you have been using?

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post #10 of 80 Old 07-28-2014, 01:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cw5billwade View Post
LOL I got 3 I should have said 9 left I guess yours make it 8. Glade you checked in I was think of putting them on a Marty but I need him26" tall would building with the sides, rear, and front panel sitting onthe bottom and top sitting on them hurt anything? That would give me another11/2" making them 25 1/2" and I ordered some 1/2" rubber feet from PE. I only have 24" back there so they would need to be about 22" deep so a box that is 24"x25 1/2" x 22". Would that work for the daton 15" driver you have been using?
No problem with adjusting sizes to fit your space. The cube is 2' by 2' by 25.5" and I wouldn't go smaller. If you drop one down to 22" I would do 24" by 22" by 27" high. Having the 1099 a little higher ( 1-3") won't effect the sound at all. Having waveguide lower will.
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post #11 of 80 Old 07-28-2014, 02:02 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post
No problem with adjusting sizes to fit your space. The cube is 2' by 2' by 25.5" and I wouldn't go smaller. If you drop one down to 22" I would do 24" by 22" by 27" high. Having the 1099 a little higher ( 1-3") won't effect the sound at all. Having waveguide lower will.
is the port size still 2" tall and how long would it need to be to compensate for losing the 1 1/2" wide?
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post #12 of 80 Old 07-28-2014, 02:03 PM - Thread Starter
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post #13 of 80 Old 07-28-2014, 02:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cw5billwade View Post
is the port size still 2" tall and how long would it need to be to compensate for losing the 1 1/2" wide?
Port 2" high.
Port length the same. 2" less would only change it maybe .3 of a hz.
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post #14 of 80 Old 07-28-2014, 02:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cw5billwade View Post
What about that 15" Daton Driver you are using in the micro cube?
That driver driver is for really small ported enclosures and has higher tuning. I would use the si18d4 or if you want 15" go with this one
http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-...4-ohm--295-468
For the martycube
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post #15 of 80 Old 07-29-2014, 07:19 AM - Thread Starter
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doing some research on inside dimensions and wanted to share and put it here so I can find it latter

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Originally Posted by Boxozaxu View Post
Does this help? I posted this for someone else in FatShaft's 1099 thread.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Boxozaxu View Post
Quote:Originally Posted by xosux

Wow never figured 2 weeks so i guess screw killing myself to get things done by this coming weekend then. I did see where fatshaft said each compartment was around 11 x 11 but that seemed small as the woofer is 10" and the vents look like 1" and the room between them looked like 12 or more inches per woofer compartment..

I'd wait for the baffles. You don't have that much wiggle room if you make a mistake. If you really want to get a jump start though I would build the enclosure and cut the dividers and then wait for the baffles just to make sure everything fits before I permanently attach the dividers. You can build the xovers while you wait for the glue to dry

This is the limiting dimension in deciding where to put the divider...FROM THE EDGE it's 12 7/8 to the edge of the woofer cutout and then you have about 7/8 of an inch to fit the divider. The other sides give you about 1 1/8.




Good luck on your build and can't wait to see the pictures!

here is a good image of a L/R baffle laying center baffle todemonstrate the variation
http://http://www.avsforum.com/forum...l#post26117874

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post #16 of 80 Old 07-29-2014, 08:50 AM
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If you just build them to the 36.25" height you can always change their height by building different sized stands. My eventual goal is to build subs that they will sit on. For now I built stands with scrap wood. This gives me flexibility in the future.

Towers can look awesome. Augmont did a great job with his and they look very imposing. For my situation it wasn't needed and my long term goals needed flexibility.
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post #17 of 80 Old 07-29-2014, 08:59 AM - Thread Starter
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Mine will be behind AT screen so unless I put some up lighting spots on them no one will see. I figured if I have to cut wood and build something try and make it usefull. If I did 62" towers It would take 4 sheets of MDF. If I did marty type stands it would be 5 sheets total. I am leaning toward the normal 36" with stands of some sort. If I do not build the Marty for stands (even though I will have to wait on the drivers) I will get the looks from WAF later when I say I need to build new subwoffers.
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post #18 of 80 Old 07-29-2014, 11:44 AM
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Just build 36" ones. Can always put a piece under bottom.
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post #19 of 80 Old 07-29-2014, 11:50 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post
Just build 36" ones. Can always put a piece under bottom.
When you say piece you me marty right?

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post #20 of 80 Old 07-29-2014, 12:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cw5billwade View Post
Wheyou say piece you me marty right?
You can build a Marty stand for them

My Build Thread
Equipment Speakers:
3x 1099's for LCR duty
4x Fusion 8's for surround duty
8x subs: 4x FTW21's and 4x SI18's
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post #21 of 80 Old 07-29-2014, 12:09 PM
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Lots of options. Go towers and no options.
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post #22 of 80 Old 07-29-2014, 12:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fatshaft View Post
You can build a Marty stand for them
Thanks for checking in I understand you don't like your1099s much I am leaning that route just buld 3 cubes that could be used for Martys latter if required AND SO IT BEGINS I should have never bult that subwoofer kit from PE.

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post #23 of 80 Old 07-29-2014, 12:24 PM
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Bill,

All I can say is you're going to freak!
Looking forward to hear your thoughts

My Build Thread
Equipment Speakers:
3x 1099's for LCR duty
4x Fusion 8's for surround duty
8x subs: 4x FTW21's and 4x SI18's
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post #24 of 80 Old 07-29-2014, 12:35 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fatshaft View Post
Bill,

All I can say is you're going to freak!
Looking forward to hear your thoughts
The first thing I am going to do is put in Inception and go to the scene where the glass breaks. I heard it once in a BB Magnolia room on some high end B&Ws and it was like crap youare right there. Almost made me jump it was so real. That is what I am looking for! I will play it on the 301s then play it on the 1099s Then I will listen to all the scenes that the Vancover guys put up on gogle +. I may have to down load some old school rock to see what I missed in my foggy youth

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post #25 of 80 Old 07-29-2014, 04:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cw5billwade View Post
The first thing I am going to do is put in Inception and go to the scene where the glass breaks. I heard it once in a BB Magnolia room on some high end B&Ws and it was like crap youare right there. Almost made me jump it was so real. That is what I am looking for! I will play it on the 301s then play it on the 1099s Then I will listen to all the scenes that the Vancover guys put up on gogle +. I may have to down load some old school rock to see what I missed in my foggy youth
Make sure you have your first aid kit right next to you after watching that scene when playing the 1099's

My Build Thread
Equipment Speakers:
3x 1099's for LCR duty
4x Fusion 8's for surround duty
8x subs: 4x FTW21's and 4x SI18's

Last edited by Fatshaft; 07-29-2014 at 04:25 PM.
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post #26 of 80 Old 07-30-2014, 11:09 AM
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Awesome! I can't wait for mine to get here. My wife doesn't understand my excitement. So I have to come here.

Would the speakers move due to vibrations from the subs if used as a stand?

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
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post #27 of 80 Old 07-30-2014, 11:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sslv2pwned View Post
Awesome! I can't wait for mine to get here. My wife doesn't understand my excitement. So I have to come here.

Would the speakers move due to vibrations from the subs if used as a stand?
When I had the 45 pound EP2500 amp sitting on one of my subs, it would get sliding around pretty good when messing around with stupid stuff like Bass I Love You. When I had my Volt-10's sitting on my subs, they also moved around but that was just raw MDF sitting on raw MDF. I would think with some soft rubber feat of some kind you might be ok, but you'd have to try it and see. Of course, it all depends on your subs too.
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post #28 of 80 Old 07-30-2014, 12:24 PM
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Yes they will move a bit. Rubber feet solve the problem.
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post #29 of 80 Old 07-30-2014, 01:00 PM - Thread Starter
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cross over board size and recomendations

Quote:
Originally Posted by dtsdig View Post
There is really no "optimal" size. I think mine are 7 x 8.5 or something. It's really just how you lay it out and making sure that it will fit through either a woofer hole or the waveguide hole in the cabinet.
You can use 18 or even 20 AWG stranded wire. For such short runs, it will be perfectly fine. Also, just think of how small the leads on the components themselves are, and they are good for lots of voltage and current.
I use black and red to help keep things straight.
You can verify your wiring by pretending you are a car that is driving down the "+" wire from the amplifier. "Drive" into each component in the order that they should be in according to the schematic, you should be able to see where your connections are correct or not correct. It's silly, but it works.
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post #30 of 80 Old 07-31-2014, 10:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cw5billwade View Post
If so can you put that post over at my build thread I think that is how I want to cut and do nothave any way to draw that myself. What did you use?
A = 36.25" x 12"
B = 36.25" x 13"
C = 13" x 11"
Outside Dimensions: 12.5" wide x 14.5" deep x 36.25" tall.

The attached mockups were both done in Google Sketchup. It's the only tool that I have that allows me to make quick adjustments. FYI: The baffles cutouts are not to scale here... I just through them together for a quick preview.
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