Seos Tempest Build - finishing feedback and suggestion - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 13 Old 07-29-2014, 05:20 PM - Thread Starter
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Seos Tempest Build - finishing feedback and suggestion

This is my first DIY speaker project so I included some tips and thoughts that may be useful to someone in my position. Main reason for this thread is to get some feedback on what sort of finish to use but I included some extra notes as well.

Ordering/ packaging/ shipping

All perfect as been described multiple times before. Erich is very patient in addressing and questions/ concerns. Thank you!

The surround on the eminence driver is a bit sticky out of the box. Be careful to keep tiny styrofoam flakes from falling on it because they will stick and be hard to get off. Once the drivers get exposed to some dust, the tackiness wears off.

Assembly

Flat packs: The flat packs are great. I am so glad I got them and I see little reason to not do so as the savings are minimal by making the cabinets from scratch. The pieces fit perfectly. I used Gorilla brand type II wood glue. For those buying glue just for this project, 8 oz was short by about half an oz to finish the two boxes, so get 16oz bottle. Also, a mistake I made on my first cabinet is gluing both left and right sides before the baffle. If you do that you are forced to squeeze a perfectly cut baffle between two pieces of wood which extrudes all the glue --> Order: side, baffle, second side. There is a video on youtube which I watched but did not pay attention to that step.

Also when gluing the second baffle, be careful, it slides around like a bitch. You'll think everything is lined up but even after slowly tightening each clamp a bit at a time, all of a sudden you may realize everything slid by 2-3 mm...WTF!? Good luck ripping it off to move it - happened twice even after I learned my lesson the first time.

Bar clamps: Best value I found is from Harbor Freight. I think they are great quality for 5 bucks a pop. They get decent reviews and I had no issues with them. I recommend at least six and a few blocks of wood (to spread the pressure around - don't worry about making impressions on the MDF - no need to tighten that hard). I am sure it could be done with fewer clamps but if I had them I would have used a couple more. http://www.harborfreight.com/24-inch...amp-96213.html

Crossover assembly: I think the $25 dollar fee for assembled crossover is an incredible value and I recommend it - the only reason I didn't get it is because I wanted to not feel like i was full of **** when telling people I built the speaker - as it is, it's a bit of a stretch, because of the flat packs. If that is not important to you, or you're not a maestro with the soldering iron, or don't want to do it just to learn, just get the assembled crossover. It took me several evening to figure out how to arrange the parts and solder them on to a 7 x 8 inch board. The second crossover went much quicker of course. Anyways, I am attaching some pictures of assembled crossover. I would have done a few things differently. I think I could have made the layout a bit more efficient to require less soldering on the back (I sacrificed some efficiency for neat layout on top but I think it was not necessary). Also, if it is your first crossover, I would lay out the components and solder on same side of board to make it easier for others to trouble shoot your work if you are having issues. Twist ties are great and really cheap. Lastly, get some flux and keep the soldering iron tip clean because if you don't it will stop working right around the time you start getting the hang of soldering.

Hookup wires: For running the crossover to the drivers inside, I plan to just use some large gauge (12 or 14) speaker wire I have lying around.

Attaching crossover to inside of speaker: I wasn't sure how to attach the crossover to the inside of the speaker. I wanted to be able to remove them if needed. Best suggestion I have had was from Audio Geek, who suggested screwing small blocks to back of crossover then gluing the crossover by the blocks to the wall of speaker. That way if it had to be removed, one could always unscrew them.

Attaching Eminence driver: The included screw heads seem to barely be large enough to cover the mounting holes. I was assured that they will not fall though and I'm sure they won't. Any reason to care?

Finishing

I am considering several different alternatives:

Automotive finish:

One estimate $250 each for black and $350 for pearl white - for "high quality finish" (does not include prep such as primer and sanding). Does anyone have any experience with this? Is this a reasonable quote? I was considering it for around $250 - 300 for both speakers but not for $500-600.

Veneer:
I haven't seen any of the Tempest designs with wood veneer finish. Did I miss one? I suspect part of difficulty is dealing with the rounded baffle. Would it be difficult/ possible to use a router to straighten the baffle edge so that I could glue a strip of veneer to it (like in the random picture of the internet I attached)?

Duratex:
Certainly simple, easy, and durable, but by girlfriend isn't digging it that much. I think if I find some nice pictures with good examples, especially with a smoother finish, I can probably sell it to her. The finish says "business" and I like it. There is an example of a smooth finish in this thread:

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/1621130-duratex-alternative-2.html#

I am not sure if that can be done without a spray gun though. I would imagine I'd run into the issue of brushstrokes showing.

Hope this info is useful and thanks in advance for any suggestions and feedback.
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Last edited by Mtrc808; 07-30-2014 at 01:37 PM.
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post #2 of 13 Old 07-29-2014, 05:34 PM
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The only easy way to do veneer with your rounded corners is to put a 1/8" MDF layer around the whole speaker. Flush trim the baffle and edges. Then veneer and put drivers back in. Not a tonne of work but a lot more then painting.
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post #3 of 13 Old 07-29-2014, 05:56 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post
The only easy way to do veneer with your rounded corners is to put a 1/8" MDF layer around the whole speaker. Flush trim the baffle and edges. Then veneer and put drivers back in. Not a tonne of work but a lot more then painting.
Would I need to fill the gap from the rounded baffle around the edges? or can I just leave the empty space?
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post #4 of 13 Old 07-29-2014, 05:59 PM - Thread Starter
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Stuffing box: I just bought a $8 Walmart pillow and wondering how much most people stuff the box?
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post #5 of 13 Old 07-29-2014, 06:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mtrc808 View Post
Would I need to fill the gap from the rounded baffle around the edges? or can I just leave the empty space?
I would put something in there so you have a bigger glueing surface then 1/8". Maybe squirt some pl premium in just before putting on front.
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post #6 of 13 Old 07-30-2014, 06:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mtrc808 View Post
Veneer: [/FONT]
I haven't seen any of the Tempest designs with wood veneer finish. Did I miss one? I suspect part of difficulty is dealing with the rounded baffle. Would it be difficult/ possible to use a router to straighten the baffle edge so that I could glue a strip of veneer to it (like in the random picture of the internet I attached)?[/FONT]
You could order the baffle from Erich without the roundover. But yes, you could use a 45 degree bit to create an edge. Or some paint the baffle separately, like notnyt's Classix IIs:
Classix II in record time

Quote:
Duratex:
Certainly simple, easy, and durable, but by girlfriend isn't digging it that much. I think if I find some nice pictures with good examples, especially with a smoother finish, I can probably sell it to her. The finish says "business" and I like it. There is an example of a smooth finish in this thread:

Duratex Alternative

I am not sure if that can be done without a spray gun though. I would imagine I'd run into the issue of brushstrokes showing.
From what I've read on AVS Forum, it can be done with a smooth foam roller.

Quote:
Hope this info is useful and thanks in advance for any suggestions and feedback.
Nice summary of your experiences.

Last edited by Audio Geek; 07-30-2014 at 07:04 AM.
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post #7 of 13 Old 07-30-2014, 07:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mtrc808 View Post
Stuffing box: I just bought a $8 Walmart pillow and wondering how much most people stuff the box?
I used pink fluffy fiberglass on the walls and no stuffing. You could use denim insulation as well. But check out this post:

Vancouver Summertime GTG Results

If I ever open mine up, maybe I'll do the same.
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post #8 of 13 Old 07-30-2014, 07:20 AM
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ya don't stuff it with a pillow, line the wall with insulation.

That is crazy expensive for paint
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post #9 of 13 Old 08-22-2014, 05:42 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Audio Geek View Post
I used pink fluffy fiberglass on the walls and no stuffing. You could use denim insulation as well. But check out this post:

Vancouver Summertime GTG Results

If I ever open mine up, maybe I'll do the same.

Just got some of the Bonded Logic denim insulation. Thanks for the link.
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post #10 of 13 Old 08-22-2014, 05:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Sanding before duratex

So like so many, after looking into all my options I decided not to get to crazy on my first build and go with Duratex. Maybe i'll do an automotive finish on next build but it too expensive for now. Also rounded baffle makes veneer complicated.

I was reading some threads and I am sure it's covered somewhere but can't find it. To what grit to people generally sand before applying duratex? I am going to try to do a "smoother finish" on with a 1/4 inch nap foam roller. Doing 120 now and wondering if any reason to go much higher than 200.
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post #11 of 13 Old 08-22-2014, 07:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mtrc808 View Post
So like so many, after looking into all my options I decided not to get to crazy on my first build and go with Duratex. Maybe i'll do an automotive finish on next build but it too expensive for now. Also rounded baffle makes veneer complicated.

I was reading some threads and I am sure it's covered somewhere but can't find it. To what grit to people generally sand before applying duratex? I am going to try to do a "smoother finish" on with a 1/4 inch nap foam roller. Doing 120 now and wondering if any reason to go much higher than 200.
You only get a real smoother finish with foam roller. All naps to me are pretty bumpy. Foam roller feels like 150 grit. Nap rollers are 60 grit.
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post #12 of 13 Old 08-22-2014, 07:26 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post
You only get a real smoother finish with foam roller. All naps to me are pretty bumpy. Foam roller feels like 150 grit. Nap rollers are 60 grit.

You mean the finish feels like those grits or I should sand to those grits prior to applying Duratex with those methods? I am wondering how smooth (to what grit) I need to sand for 1/4 inch foam roller?
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post #13 of 13 Old 08-22-2014, 07:28 PM
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feels like those grits. you don't really have to sand MDF, just sand the edges/ filler areas with 80 and 150 or 220 before you paint.
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