The Exclusive 1099 - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 119 Old 07-29-2014, 10:23 PM - Thread Starter
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The Exclusive 1099

They're called the "Elusive 1099," but at this point they ought to be renamed the "Exclusive 1099s." If you have yours already (or they are shipping soon), welcome to the club.



My three 1099s arrived this past week. I'm in the middle of gathering a few final materials and parts. With very little wood or electronics experience I thought it would be fun to tackle a 3-way crossover design for my first build. Brilliant.



Special thanks to Ryan (Tux) for the design and Erich @ DIYSoundGroup for making these available. More thanks to Fatshaft for his overarching enthusiasm about his 1099s, and both he and Dtsdig for their well documented build threads, and also everyone else that has recently started a 1099 thread.
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post #2 of 119 Old 07-29-2014, 10:35 PM
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post #3 of 119 Old 07-29-2014, 10:49 PM - Thread Starter
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Yes, yes you are. Drinks on the house.
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post #4 of 119 Old 07-30-2014, 06:12 AM
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I was hoping to post the crossover schematic on the Elusive page for easy finding. Does anyone have a link for where that's hiding and in what thread?
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post #5 of 119 Old 07-30-2014, 06:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Erich H View Post
I was hoping to post the crossover schematic on the Elusive page for easy finding. Does anyone have a link for where that's hiding and in what thread?
A 3 way 99db multi configurable SEOS design first page Tux has the schematic listed
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Tux's Elusive 1099 (L/C/R)---Ascend CBM-170 SE (surrounds 9.2)---SVS PB 12 Plus---SVS PC 12 Plus---2 DIY 18's sealed--AVR Denon 4520CI---TV Vizio 70---110" Motorized Screen---Epson 8350 Projector---Unraid 32TB Network Storage---Gateway SX 2370 HTPC with 120 SSD
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post #6 of 119 Old 07-30-2014, 06:27 AM - Thread Starter
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That's the one I am planning on using, so I hope that's the right one.

Last edited by Robert Jones II; 07-30-2014 at 06:48 AM.
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post #7 of 119 Old 07-30-2014, 06:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert Jones II View Post
That's the one I am planning on using, so I hope that the right one.
That one is correct. Tux just made some of the values of the caps on the drawing wonky such as 560nF = .56uF, etc. Still correct, just different to read and different from what the print on the actual components will say (.56uF).

There is also this one:
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post #8 of 119 Old 07-30-2014, 06:49 AM
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post #9 of 119 Old 07-30-2014, 07:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Erich H View Post
Thanks. I forgot Tux updated his first post.
Yeah on the paperclip for the 1099 thread you can also get to the attachments of that thread. And there are multiple x-over designs and I get confused. I'm sure they are all relevant talking about tweaks but man it would be nice for there to be a repository of all design documents in one spot.

I am also hunting the dimensions for building the cabinet. I haven't had the chance to order the speaker kit yet from Erich but I thought I could at least look at cabinet makin' in the meantime (I don't need to order the flat pack).
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post #10 of 119 Old 07-30-2014, 07:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skipford View Post
Yeah on the paperclip for the 1099 thread you can also get to the attachments of that thread. And there are multiple x-over designs and I get confused. I'm sure they are all relevant talking about tweaks but man it would be nice for there to be a repository of all design documents in one spot.

I am also hunting the dimensions for building the cabinet. I haven't had the chance to order the speaker kit yet from Erich but I thought I could at least look at cabinet makin' in the meantime (I don't need to order the flat pack).
You'll only need the schematic that I just posted above or use the one from the first post in the main 1099 thread, both are the same. Ignore all others.
As for the outer cabinet dimensions, they have been posted in several places and can also be found on the flat pack listing on DIYSG.
That states: 12 1/2" wide x 36 1/4" tall x 14 1/2" deep. You can figure out exactly where you'll need the dividers placed after you have the kits.
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post #11 of 119 Old 07-30-2014, 09:09 AM - Thread Starter
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I had my MDF delivered yesterday. I ordered 6 sheets of 4'x8' in anticipation of also building subs and surrounds for my next projects.

For anyone that might be in North Carolina, South Carolina, Virginia, Georgia, or Florida, you might want to check out OrderOnsite.com to see if they service your area. They are a building supply company that offers free delivery in select areas. I had seen them mentioned elsewhere on the forums, but I was skeptical about using them. I figured a 6 sheet order of MDF would make for a good trial run. Well, they delivered the sheets the next day. What's more, the cost per sheet was actually ~$5 less than the big box stores. If you factor in the $60 truck delivery fee from the big box stores I saved $90... and yes this was a residential delivery. I do not have a truck, but even if I did I think I would still use them just for the convenience. The only problem with the service is that they do not give you a delivery window. I think the website says that they try to make it by 2pm, but my order arrived around 5:30pm. I work from home so that was not an issue, but it is something to be aware of.

(dts, I accidentally posted this in your thread also thinking that I was in my own. Hopefully more people will benefit)
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post #12 of 119 Old 07-30-2014, 09:25 AM
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Ha, awesome. I'm loving all the chopped photos. I should collect them onto the main page of the 1099 thread or something. I need to do an FAQ also.
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post #13 of 119 Old 07-30-2014, 11:29 AM - Thread Starter
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An FAQ would be great. The first question should be: Why the hell did I decide to do this?

I made the speaker box blue in that mockup just to match the original artwork, but I actually kind of like it. I wonder how it would look with the woofers (I don't have them in front of me, but I remember them being slightly blue-ish). In reality I will probably stick with black Duratex to keep things simple. Everything will eventually go behind an AT screen. Or maybe I'll be contrarian and put the speakers right in front of the screen. Instead of saying "enjoy the show" I'll say "enjoy the speakers!"
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post #14 of 119 Old 07-30-2014, 11:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert Jones II View Post
An FAQ would be great. The first question should be: Why the hell did I decide to do this?

I made the speaker box blue in that mockup just to match the original artwork, but I actually kind of like it. I wonder how it would look with the woofers (I don't have them in front of me, but I remember them being slightly blue-ish). In reality I will probably stick with black Duratex to keep things simple. Everything will eventually go behind an AT screen. Or maybe I'll be contrarian and put the speakers right in front of the screen. Instead of saying "enjoy the show" I'll say "enjoy the speakers!"
A much as I would love to have a "proper" theater setup with an acoustically transparent screen some day, I will really struggle with hiding my speakers behind it. I really like seeing the speakers that I built! I also love being able to watch the subs move when scenes get crazy! Maybe I'll see it differently when the time comes.
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post #15 of 119 Old 07-30-2014, 12:14 PM - Thread Starter
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A much as I would love to have a "proper" theater setup with an acoustically transparent screen some day, I will really struggle with hiding my speakers behind it. I really like seeing the speakers that I built! I also love being able to watch the subs move when scenes get crazy! Maybe I'll see it differently when the time comes.
I know what you mean. I am going to have to do a backlit setup and/or a screen frame that tilts up to reveal the engine under the hood. My cabinet will just be the standard size... square... black... and I already feeling angst about hiding them away. I can only imagine how you must feel with your curves (that doesn't sound right... I'm talking about the speakers)
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post #16 of 119 Old 07-30-2014, 12:20 PM
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I can only imagine how you must feel with your curves (that doesn't sound right... I'm talking about the speakers)
Well, I'm working on losing some of my own curves, but my wife's....well they are damn near perfect, if you ask me!
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post #17 of 119 Old 07-30-2014, 05:54 PM
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I LOVE being able to see mine. The few friends I have had over look at me like I am nuts! They are huge for many not in this hobby, and my room is small (10'x12') with a 120" screen.

Best part is I'm not done yet. I want to build 2 18" ported subs that will make my front look like I am completely insane!

Wish I knew anyone that shared my love of A/V gear.
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post #18 of 119 Old 07-30-2014, 06:06 PM
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10 by 12 feet, that's a bedroom ! Must be crazy loud in there.
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post #19 of 119 Old 07-30-2014, 06:15 PM
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Half wall behind the couch that's open to the rest of the house. Future bar location behind the couch
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post #20 of 119 Old 07-31-2014, 07:06 PM - Thread Starter
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There's not any polarity to any of the crossover components, right? I feel like I read somewhere that with inductors you are better off using the wire coming out of the middle of the coil as one polarity or another, but it doesn't seem like it should matter. Wanted to confirm before I start wiring these puppies up.
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post #21 of 119 Old 07-31-2014, 07:12 PM
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No polarity
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post #22 of 119 Old 08-04-2014, 03:30 PM - Thread Starter
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Anyone have time to perform a sanity check on my mock-crossover? See attached. Left side is top of board. Right side is bottom/wire side of board. Thanks!
(version 2 attached with corrected labeling)
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post #23 of 119 Old 08-04-2014, 03:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert Jones II View Post
Anyone have time to perform a sanity check on my mock-crossover? See attached. Left side is top of board. Right side is bottom/wire side of board. Thanks!
This is more of a question, but can you run two sets of wires from the barrier terminal to the W's and M's? To clarify, each terminal out to the speakers for the W's has two spade connectors stacked, one for each woofer. This is rather than running wires directly from one woofer all the way back through the sealed compartment to the other woofer. Hard to explain that clearly

Also, you could probably move t3 into the top left corner and w1 up a little, if your board is square to get more distance between your inductors (if it matters).
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post #24 of 119 Old 08-04-2014, 04:37 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by horfcha View Post
This is more of a question, but can you run two sets of wires from the barrier terminal to the W's and M's? To clarify, each terminal out to the speakers for the W's has two spade connectors stacked, one for each woofer. This is rather than running wires directly from one woofer all the way back through the sealed compartment to the other woofer. Hard to explain that clearly
I believe what you are proposing is wiring the speakers in parallel instead of in series, which I don't think you can do because it changes the resistance values of the crossover.
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post #25 of 119 Old 08-04-2014, 05:04 PM
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I believe what you are proposing is wiring the speakers in parallel instead of in series, which I don't think you can do because it changes the resistance values of the crossover.
I don't think I did a great job explaining it, so here is a picture. I didn't think the representation on the right was functionally different. I should have paid more attention in high school physics...
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post #26 of 119 Old 08-04-2014, 06:05 PM - Thread Starter
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That's what I assumed you were talking about. The left is series and the right is parallel wiring. So, if you had two 8-ohm drivers then the resistance would work out like this for each:

Left (series): 8 + 8 = 16 ohms
Right (parallel): (8x8)/(8+8)=64/16=4 ohms

If I'm doing the math correctly here then they would be functionally different.
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post #27 of 119 Old 08-04-2014, 07:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by horfcha View Post
I don't think I did a great job explaining it, so here is a picture. I didn't think the representation on the right was functionally different. I should have paid more attention in high school physics...


Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert Jones II View Post
That's what I assumed you were talking about. The left is series and the right is parallel wiring. So, if you had two 8-ohm drivers then the resistance would work out like this for each:

Left (series): 8 + 8 = 16 ohms
Right (parallel): (8x8)/(8+8)=64/16=4 ohms

If I'm doing the math correctly here then they would be functionally different.

Both of the diagrams are wired in parallel. Series wiring would look like this:

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post #28 of 119 Old 08-04-2014, 07:33 PM
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yes,there are multiple x-over designs and I get confused. I'm sure they are all relevant talking about tweaks but man it would be nice for there to be a repository of all design documents in one [IMG]http://*******/xp1ekA[/IMG]spot.
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post #29 of 119 Old 08-04-2014, 07:56 PM - Thread Starter
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yes,there are multiple x-over designs and I get confused. I'm sure they are all relevant talking about tweaks but man it would be nice for there to be a repository of all design documents in one [IMG]http://*******/xp1ekA[/IMG]spot.
My layout was based on dtsdig's. Since the components are laid out the same they should be fine, but I wanted a second pair of eyes to review my wiring before I printed this out and glued/soldered everything up. Let me know if everything's looks right.
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post #30 of 119 Old 08-04-2014, 08:16 PM
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Anyone have time to perform a sanity check on my mock-crossover? See attached. Left side is top of board. Right side is bottom/wire side of board. Thanks!
Well that sure looks familiar! 😉
I like the way you made up the drawing for the wiring. I should be able to take a look at it next to the schematic tomorrow morning. Assuming it's correct, your drawing will be a great resource for people trying to figure this out! Nice job!

Last edited by dtsdig; 08-04-2014 at 08:21 PM.
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