Nabukicks "not Elusive enough for me" 3x 1099 build - Page 2 - AVS Forum
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Old 08-17-2014, 12:23 AM
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Thank you for the breakdown. So, if the 3/8" nap gives you some texture, does less than 3/8" automatically give you a smoother finish, or is there more to it than that? It has been a while since I have looked at paint rollers. I would imagine that the overlaps on a smoother finish are more difficult to cover up. Any tips on how to handle that? (it's nice to be able to pick the brain of a professional painter )
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Old 08-17-2014, 03:00 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Robert Jones II View Post
Thank you for the breakdown. So, if the 3/8" nap gives you some texture, does less than 3/8" automatically give you a smoother finish, or is there more to it than that? It has been a while since I have looked at paint rollers. I would imagine that the overlaps on a smoother finish are more difficult to cover up. Any tips on how to handle that? (it's nice to be able to pick the brain of a professional painter )
If you are looking for as smooth a texture as possible, I would use a foam roller. You could even thin the paint down a little bit. If you want to use a latex paint, add a splash or two of water and mix well. Using an oil paint, add a bit of mineral spirits. As it dries, the texture will "lay down" a bit more. Just be sure if you do think to watch for any runs, as it tends to happen more often.


I think for the sides of the box, I used three roller widths, and the back took two widths of the roller. When you overlap each row, go back over the overlap mark lightly to smooth out any extra paint that had squished out the side of the roller.


I know some people find painting to be easy, while others are complete hacks. Not knowing what your thoughts or experience is, sorry if I over explained this.
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Old 08-17-2014, 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Nabukicks View Post
I know some people find painting to be easy, while others are complete hacks. Not knowing what your thoughts or experience is, sorry if I over explained this.
I have minimal experience and am probably one level above a hack, so the extra detail was appreciated.
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Old 08-18-2014, 04:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Nabukicks View Post
If you are looking for as smooth a texture as possible, I would use a foam roller. You could even thin the paint down a little bit. If you want to use a latex paint, add a splash or two of water and mix well. Using an oil paint, add a bit of mineral spirits. As it dries, the texture will "lay down" a bit more. Just be sure if you do think to watch for any runs, as it tends to happen more often.


I think for the sides of the box, I used three roller widths, and the back took two widths of the roller. When you overlap each row, go back over the overlap mark lightly to smooth out any extra paint that had squished out the side of the roller.


I know some people find painting to be easy, while others are complete hacks. Not knowing what your thoughts or experience is, sorry if I over explained this.
Kind of O/T
But

I need to paint my wife's office soon, but; there are a bunch of bad, actually terrible Sheetrock patches done by the previous tenet and I am having to sand the sh•t out of the walls. Problem is that the existing paint that is on there is flaking off in spots where I am sanding with my 150 gritt sand paper. There are spots of Sheetrock mud used to patch holes that was not sanded down flush with the wall and it has a cheap latex paint on top of it, as well as lots of runs that have dried and need to be sanded out! Any suggestions on how to get the walls back to being semi smooth and looking nice? I am thinking about taking my Ryobi palm and/or orbital sander to it, carefully! LoL
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Old 08-18-2014, 08:31 AM
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Yup palm sander will do. Just put 220 grit sandpaper and use some skill
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Old 08-18-2014, 09:11 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Martycool007 View Post
Kind of O/T
But

I need to paint my wife's office soon, but; there are a bunch of bad, actually terrible Sheetrock patches done by the previous tenet and I am having to sand the sh•t out of the walls. Problem is that the existing paint that is on there is flaking off in spots where I am sanding with my 150 gritt sand paper. There are spots of Sheetrock mud used to patch holes that was not sanded down flush with the wall and it has a cheap latex paint on top of it, as well as lots of runs that have dried and need to be sanded out! Any suggestions on how to get the walls back to being semi smooth and looking nice? I am thinking about taking my Ryobi palm and/or orbital sander to it, carefully! LoL
Yeah, a palm sander with a fine grit should take care of the previous mud under paint. Don't want to use anything too rough or it will worsen the problem. It may take some extra time and love to get it completely smooth, but worth it when its done.


If paint is flaking off, check for water damage, or try to find a cause of it. It may just be cheap paint that has been there too long, or there may be bigger issues underneath.
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Old 08-29-2014, 07:40 PM - Thread Starter
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All 3 speakers have been done for a little over a week now. I've had the chance to watch The Amazing Spiderman 2, The Lego Movie, and Hunger Games Catching Fire. They sounded great for all 3 movies, but Spiderman was the only one I was using a decent sub. Obviously they sounded much better with my HSU vtf-15h, but I sold it a few days after watching the first movie. Right now my setup is 1099 LCR, with temporary Onkyo HTIB surrounds, surround backs, and 10" sub. 2 SI 18's are expected to arrive on Wednesday (see other post for more on that). I will order 4 Volt 10's when they are back in stock.


I can't wait to get everything up and running. Unfortunately, I won't be able to do a valid comparison between this new setup and my old Polk monitor 70's, CS2, and 40's with the HSU, because I never set those speakers up in my new room. Any comparison will be with one set of speakers in a larger, open L shaped room, where this new setup will be in a newly finished dedicated room. I'll be sure to post updates once everything else is done with impressions on how they work with the Volts. I know there have been lots of "What's the best surround match for the 1099's???" questions recently.


Thanks to Tux for an awesome design, and a fun to build speaker. When I finished, I was disappointed for a couple reasons. #1 it was so much fun to work on, I wish I had 4 more as surrounds so I could build more. #2 IMO they look much to imposing and intimidating to be hidden behind a screen. Unfortunately, given my room restrictions and size, I didn't have much of a choice but to hide them back there. Now to find some good up lighting...


Thanks to dtsdig for his brilliant and easy layout.


Thanks to Robert Jones II for his diagram.
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