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Old 08-03-2014, 06:28 PM - Thread Starter
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Horfcha builds a couple 1099

I want this to be a resource for others as much as possible so I plan to update this and keep a detailed account of the entire process. There's so much information spread around this forum but it's not really consolidated into a guide for a recipe-follower like me.

After weeks of lurking and reading and absorbing as much as possible, I ordered two 1099 kits from diysoundgroup. The tracking numbers went out and the exceptionally packaged boxes arrived in fine shape. Already thinking how I could reuse those cool pool noodles padding the sides of the box.

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Last edited by horfcha; 08-03-2014 at 10:12 PM. Reason: forgot to include picture
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Old 08-03-2014, 06:30 PM - Thread Starter
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Here is my first attempt at laying out the crossover. I had to use a 4 pole terminal instead of a 2 pole since that's all they had at the store. I'll probably order a 2 pole for the finished product. Total measurements are 8"x8.5"

Does that fit within the specifications?

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Old 08-03-2014, 06:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by horfcha View Post
Here is my first attempt at laying out the crossover. I had to use a 4 pole terminal instead of a 2 pole since that's all they had at the store. I'll probably order a 2 pole for the finished product. Total measurements are 8"x8.5"

Does that fit within the specifications?

Mine are the same dimensions but you could possible go smaller if you want.

The Elusive 1099 (L/C/R)---DIY Volt 10 (surrounds 9.4)---SVS PB 12 Plus---SVS PC 12 Plus---2 DIY 18's sealed--2 Pico Wreckers (tapped horns)---AVR Denon 4311CI---Emotiva Xpa-3---Behringer Nu6000DSP & Nu3000DSP iNuke---TV Vizio 70---110" Motorized Screen---Epson 8350 Projector---Unraid Network Storage---Gateway SX 2370 HTPC with 120 SSD
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Old 08-03-2014, 06:55 PM
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If you really want it easy to follow then I suggest either putting all the how to in first post or make up a couple of pages in Word(or something similar) and then take pics and post pics. Then I and others can save the instruction pics and post in others threads when they struggle.
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Old 08-03-2014, 07:03 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post
If you really want it easy to follow then I suggest either putting all the how to in first post or make up a couple of pages in Word(or something similar) and then take pics and post pics. Then I and others can save the instruction pics and post in others threads when they struggle.
That's the idea. However, I have to reach the end of the road before I can vouch for the map I make Once I'm done I'll edit the first post to consolidate the thread.
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Old 08-04-2014, 04:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by horfcha View Post
Here is my first attempt at laying out the crossover. I had to use a 4 pole terminal instead of a 2 pole since that's all they had at the store. I'll probably order a 2 pole for the finished product. Total measurements are 8"x8.5"

Does that fit within the specifications?

The layout looks good. The only thing I would suggest is moving that small 0.56uF cap somewhere close to the large 1.0mH inductor just because they are in parallel with eachother and it will make for less wiring on the bottom side.
Congrats on your 1099 purchases!
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Old 08-09-2014, 09:38 PM - Thread Starter
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Okay I made a few changes and mounted up the XOs. I chose to use zip ties and mounting putty to secure all of the components.

As you can see I like drilling holes.

I abstained from hot glue since it's more permanent and questionably bad for the electronics to heat up? I moved the small .56uf cap as you suggested dtsdig, although I didn't measure my spacing perfectly and a couple of the components ended up squished together.

I bought some threaded brass wood inserts and machine screws so that I can remove the boards if necessary. I read somewhere that nearby ferrous metals could impact the inductance. Hopefully the barrier strips don't have too much of an effect.

Next up is soldering tonight and then box building tomorrow!
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Old 08-10-2014, 08:35 AM
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Nice job. What was your finally dimension of the board after all the adjustments? I bought some plastic spacers at home depot, glued them to bottom of board and screwed through the board to cab through the spacer. I like your idea with the brass.

The Elusive 1099 (L/C/R)---DIY Volt 10 (surrounds 9.4)---SVS PB 12 Plus---SVS PC 12 Plus---2 DIY 18's sealed--2 Pico Wreckers (tapped horns)---AVR Denon 4311CI---Emotiva Xpa-3---Behringer Nu6000DSP & Nu3000DSP iNuke---TV Vizio 70---110" Motorized Screen---Epson 8350 Projector---Unraid Network Storage---Gateway SX 2370 HTPC with 120 SSD
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Old 08-10-2014, 08:45 AM - Thread Starter
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Final dimensions are 7.5" x 8.5"

I bought some pine board that I will glue into the MDF where I intend to mount the crossover. The pine will hold the brass inserts a lot better than MDF (or so the carpenter who sold me them says).
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Old 08-10-2014, 10:58 PM - Thread Starter
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Well the crossovers are gonna have to get soldered later this week. No rush though. Life is best when you learn to appreciate the process

Here are the cuts (left to right in the thumbnail) intending to produce 2 speaker cabinets:
(8) 11.5" x 13.25" top/bottom/internal braces
(2) 1099 baffles included with kit -- thanks, diysoundgroup!
(4) 36.25" x 13" sides
(1) pineboard for making crossover mounts
(2) 36.25" x 12.5" backs

The cuts were all made from one 4'x8' sheet of 3/4" MDF. The internal braces are over-sized on three sides to accommodate for the 1/4" depth of the dado (the four trenches you see cut into the back and side pieces). The baffle will just butt-join since using dado joints up front looked a little sketchy. Having a table saw and a generous friend who is familiar with its operation really made this possible. If I was left to a circular saw and my own limited wits, I should have / would have ordered the flatpacks.

We started to dry fit, but the dados were so tight that it probably wouldn't come apart again. Next weekend, I'll just glue and cross my fingers, I suppose. Hopefully I'll be able to validate my cuts with a picture of a complete box.
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Old 08-10-2014, 11:23 PM
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To get good dado fit from where you are just take 120-150 grit sandpaper block and sand edge of piece going into the dado. Hold block on about a 70° angle and only sand both edges for about 10 seconds. Then test. A good dado fit is it slides in all the way, and turned upside down the wood just holds in place. Should've able to take it out with one hand easily.
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Old 08-11-2014, 07:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by horfcha View Post
Okay I made a few changes and mounted up the XOs. I chose to use zip ties and mounting putty to secure all of the components.
Mounting Putty what is that?
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Old 08-11-2014, 08:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by horfcha View Post
Okay I made a few changes and mounted up the XOs. I chose to use zip ties and mounting putty to secure all of the components.

As you can see I like drilling holes.

I abstained from hot glue since it's more permanent and questionably bad for the electronics to heat up? I moved the small .56uf cap as you suggested dtsdig, although I didn't measure my spacing perfectly and a couple of the components ended up squished together.

I bought some threaded brass wood inserts and machine screws so that I can remove the boards if necessary. I read somewhere that nearby ferrous metals could impact the inductance. Hopefully the barrier strips don't have too much of an effect.

Next up is soldering tonight and then box building tomorrow!
Final layout looks great, nice and clean. Electronic components can take loads of heat in most cases. Just look up circuit board populating No worries there. Using hot glue would have no effect on anything. As long as everything is tied down, you'll be fine. Also, no need to worry about your standoffs affecting anything. This is all (relatively) low frequency stuff.
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Old 08-11-2014, 08:46 AM
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yep,Hold block on about a 70° angle and only sand both edges for about 10 seconds. Then test. A good dado fit is it slides in all the way, and turned upside down the wood just holds in place. Should've able to take it out with one[IMG]http://*******/xp1ekA[/IMG] hand easily.
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Old 08-11-2014, 09:31 AM - Thread Starter
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Mounting Putty what is that?
It's the rubbery gunk used to put up posters of Scarface and bikini babes in your dorm room. The blue stuff is better supposedly, and available at most stores that sell office/school supplies.
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Old 08-11-2014, 09:36 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by dtsdig View Post
Final layout looks great, nice and clean. Electronic components can take loads of heat in most cases. Just look up circuit board populating No worries there. Using hot glue would have no effect on anything. As long as everything is tied down, you'll be fine. Also, no need to worry about your standoffs affecting anything. This is all (relatively) low frequency stuff.
Thanks for the reassurance. I read this and got scared: http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/coils.htm . I guess that's sitting on a thick solid disk of aluminum, not just a couples screws or terminals.
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Old 08-12-2014, 11:16 PM - Thread Starter
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I got one of my crossovers soldered up and it looks like an awful mess. But...I hooked it up and sound came out! Hopefully as long as the speakers are all firing and the sound is mostly natural (a little tinny due to free-air, of course), I don't need to tear it apart. I don't have a DMM, but is there any other good way to test my work?
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Old 08-12-2014, 11:57 PM
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The mids feel like toys don't they. Amazing they sound so good.
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Old 08-13-2014, 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by horfcha View Post
I got one of my crossovers soldered up and it looks like an awful mess. But...I hooked it up and sound came out!
I was kind of surprised how terrible the wires on my crossover looked, especially after I had put together such a nice wiring diagram for myself. Oh well, at least they're functional! I need to post some pictures in my thread... as soon as I figure out where I hid my camera?
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Old 08-13-2014, 05:39 PM
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They'll look perfect once in the cabs

My Build Thread
Equipment Speakers:
3x 1099's for LCR duty
4x Fusion 8's for surround duty
8x subs: 4x FTW21's and 4x SI18's
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Old 08-13-2014, 05:56 PM
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They'll look perfect once in the cabs
Good call!
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Old 08-26-2014, 11:08 AM
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Any updates?
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Old 10-16-2015, 01:21 AM - Thread Starter
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Wow it has really taken a long time to get back on the wagon.

I had a lot of trouble working on finishing these. I chose a walnut veneer, a dark stain, satin poly and a cream-colored semi-gloss baffle accent. Things went marvelously until I tried to hand paint the baffles. I wasn't able to lay enough paint down to build up a foundation to sand, so I was stuck with either visible brush strokes or bare wood on the edges. I ended up sanding off layers upon layers of paint (and my ego) with an orbital sander.



I called up a local cabinet maker who confirmed I'd never get the results I wanted with a brush, and offered to spray them for $30 a piece with a layer of poly on the rest for a smooth finish. Should have done that months ago and I probably wouldn't have stalled out. Looks much more even now.

Anyway, here they are now almost ready for the speakers to go in. I used denim stuffing. Turns out the paint prevents the woofers from sitting down properly so I'm going to use a dremel to sand out a little more on the inner wall. I also used a brushed aluminum terminal plate from parts express, but I had to swap out the binding posts you see in the picture for some extra long ones (2.25") due to the clearances.




I'm happy with how they turned out. I like to think that the imperfections, probably only seen by me scrutinizing them up close, are just what makes them handmade and adds to their value

Lastly, if someone can sanity check my jungle of wires before I button them up in the box, I would much appreciate it!!! I hooked it up and it sounds reasonable (missing some midbass I think because I can't actually seal up the woofers yet) but I don't know enough to be sure and haven't any measuring devices.




I'm excited again! Sometimes you just need to push yourself to finish when you get discouraged and letting a professional help out isn't the end of the world when it comes to DIY.
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Old 10-16-2015, 11:23 AM
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They look great! Best thing is that you're almost done.

I also used a dremel with a little drum sander to make some baffle holes larger last year. I thought I was being careful but I ended up with slightly odd shaped circle because I accidentally tilted the dremel away from ninety degrees. I also over did it on a couple of spots. If all you have to do is remove a layer of paint, maybe some hand sanding with 40 or 60 grit sandpaper might be safer and not that much more work?

Can't wait to see how they turn out.
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Old 11-11-2015, 03:24 PM - Thread Starter
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Oh man, it was a squeeze getting the 10s seated properly. There was a lot of scary noises tightening them down with the screwdriver. This wasn't the time I wanted a seam to come unglued or the mdf to split. So far so good. They sound great. I have them crossed at 80hz with nothing else connected but it's a little hard for them to fill my giant un-treated living room+dining+room+kitchen. A bass boost of +6db helps round them out a little until I can get some subs under them.

So the question is: now what? I think I need to purchase a new receiver. I have an old refurb $99 Onkyo connected to a Vizo 4k P65" with these two wonderful 1099s and I don't think it's able to keep up. I'd like to be able to do some eq (REW or Audyssey-esque) and support a phantom center (since I only built 2 x 1099s). I'll be adding two 18" subs when I can get around to building those enclosures, so my final setup will be 2.2 for Netflix, Blu-Ray, HTPC, and music.
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Old 11-11-2015, 03:42 PM
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Love the look!
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Old 11-11-2015, 03:45 PM
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Old 11-11-2015, 03:47 PM
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Veneer on those came out great. Congrats!
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Old 11-11-2015, 04:02 PM
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@horfcha

Looks nice, which veneer you were used?
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Old 11-11-2015, 07:32 PM - Thread Starter
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@horfcha

Looks nice, which veneer you were used?
Thanks!

The veneer is a paper-backed quarter-sawn Walnut (paid more for a higher grade with fewer imperfections) from a local hardwood supplier. I think a 4'x8' sheet was around $80-$100.

You can see the different combos on the test sheet of veneer (raw, poly only, stain only, stain+poly, 2x stain+poly).
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