Originally Posted by notnyt
No, looks poorly done tbh. The bracing on the side should be stood up and not flat, not enough cross bracing, etc.
Actually you are not right this time. This bracing
Is absolutely fine. When he puts the top on he should put one strip going horizontally across in the middle.
This kind of post really frustrates me. The overkill I see in many diy builds is fine. It's people's money and if you want to build something that withstands a nuclear bomb, go for it. Using gorilla glue(not original) or titebond glue does 0 % to strengthen your build over Elmer glue . Why do I recommend gorilla (not original) ? It pours nice and drys fast.
The bracing strategy he has and any other bracing will produce zero difference in sound. The point of bracing to me is something that reduces panel flex so it doesn't effect sound and glue surface is enough that pieces don't move or crack/break over time. Beyond that is a waste.
I built a clone of a funk audio sub. I asked the person to take out the driver from his existing funk sub(and take pics) so I could see the bracing and copy Nathan. His is very similar to the one in this post. No big crossbraces, just a skeleton around the pieces. Now that's in a 3k sealed sub with 3k of power. Much more force produced and applied to the cab then the ported cab. Don't know anyone saying Nathan does shotty work.
I have done demo testing with the above style and added more bracing on top of that. Zero difference in performance.
Bassthathz measured one of my cabs with his expensive toy. Bass was tight, clean and impressive. I'm not saying for people to change there bracing strategy. Put what you want in yours . This one in this post is totally fine.