The Berstuck Box: 2xUM18-22 in 25 Cubic Feet at 16Hz - Page 2 - AVS Forum
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post #31 of 120 Old 08-11-2014, 11:24 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by randyc1 View Post
Can i ask how you arrived at that port length , trying to figure out Sot Ports,..How many cuft Net ?

Thanks
WinISD. All the info is in the first post.


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Last edited by notnyt; 08-11-2014 at 11:28 AM.
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post #32 of 120 Old 08-11-2014, 11:27 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by berstuck View Post
Well I ordered in a bora 50 inch clamp on edge guide, and a pneumatic nailer. Still deciding on saw and router, but I'll get those in soon. The cost difference between cheap maple plywood and mdf is about 50 bucks per sub. Am I correct in assuming that trimming off that extra inch is not that big of a deal? Any other advantages to the plywood?
If you go ply, try to go with a high ply count birch or similar ply. No need for a hardwood ply. Make sure you get one without a veneered face.

Cutting just an inch off of an 8 foot board can be tricky to get it perfectly straight. A factory edge will almost always be nice and straight. I did all my builds with ply. Unfortunately, the lumber yards suck here and I had serious warping issues. If you can get good and flat boards, go plywood.



advantages:
Plywood is stronger
Plywood is lighter

disadvantages:
plywood can warp
not a perfectly flat and smooth surface


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post #33 of 120 Old 08-11-2014, 11:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by notnyt View Post
WinISD. All the info is in the first post.
Yes , I know ,... just that it is sooo much longer than this Port calculator : http://www.mobileinformationlabs.com...0lenth%201.htm

Just wondering why such a difference ?

Thanks
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post #34 of 120 Old 08-11-2014, 11:46 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by randyc1 View Post
Yes , I know ,... just that it is sooo much longer than this Port calculator : http://www.mobileinformationlabs.com...0lenth%201.htm

Just wondering why such a difference ?

Thanks
Most likely because it's not accurate. I'd use a proper app for this, and not some web form. WinISD nailed the port for my last ported design.

EDIT: rofl, swapped height and width and it gives me the right length. Because that makes sense.


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post #35 of 120 Old 08-11-2014, 11:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by notnyt View Post
Most likely because it's not accurate. I'd use a proper app for this, and not some web form. WinISD nailed the port for my last ported design.

EDIT: rofl, swapped height and width and it gives me the right length. Because that makes sense.
Yes! ..why is that?
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post #36 of 120 Old 08-11-2014, 11:54 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by randyc1 View Post
Yes! ..why is that?
Who knows, they're probably doing some weird calculations for the slot port stuff. Meh, I wouldn't bother with that.


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post #37 of 120 Old 08-11-2014, 11:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by notnyt View Post
Who knows, they're probably doing some weird calculations for the slot port stuff. Meh, I wouldn't bother with that.
Allright , thanks Notnyt !!!
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post #38 of 120 Old 08-11-2014, 12:37 PM
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Awesome Plans. I am gonna watch the build progress.
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post #39 of 120 Old 08-11-2014, 12:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by notnyt View Post

disadvantages:
plywood can warp

I know you can definitely vouch for that one, I remember pictures that you posted of the plywood you had for your fourth cabinet I believe that was pretty warped.
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post #40 of 120 Old 08-11-2014, 12:49 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jbrown15 View Post
I know you can definitely vouch for that one, I remember pictures that you posted of the plywood you had for your fourth cabinet I believe that was pretty warped.
They were all a fight and a struggle, some were REALLY bad Especially with panels that size. I broke my foot I think dropping the front baffle on it from a table when I was struggling to line stuff up. I had some crazy pictures posted of how bad the boards were warped, probably buried in my build thread somewhere... They didn't show the half of it once you get a box assembled of warped boards and need to squeeze the baffle into place. Ugh.


My locale sucks for getting flat ply


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post #41 of 120 Old 08-11-2014, 02:36 PM
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Cabinet grade redwood ply is $35 at home depot. Sound ok?

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post #42 of 120 Old 08-11-2014, 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by berstuck View Post
I'm sure my wife will love it.
Famous last words.
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post #43 of 120 Old 08-11-2014, 03:41 PM
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Famous last words.
I believe you missed the sarcasm in my post sir.
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post #44 of 120 Old 08-11-2014, 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post
I'd spend a little extra on brad nailer. Yes harbour freight has one for 20 bucks but I think the Porter cable is worth the 70 bucks.
I've had those Harbor Freight $20 specials, they don't last, but not because of why some people think. They actually work ok at first, but the problem is that they very quickly get to the point where the piston fires a brad but then gets stuck. At that point you have to stop and take a thin screwdriver to shove the piston back into the housing. It is extremely ghetto. I have bought multiple Hitachi units and they work very well.

Personally though, I can't wrap my head around the idea that people are friggin brad nailing a multi-thousand watt subwoofer setup with multiple 18's that weighs well into the triple digits. Get some good plywood and Kreg screw the thing. Yeah I realize it's glued and that's doing most of the work, but still.
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post #45 of 120 Old 08-11-2014, 03:50 PM
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I believe you missed the sarcasm in my post sir.
Maybe you missed it in mine. I know how it is.
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post #46 of 120 Old 08-11-2014, 03:52 PM
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I don't know what a kreg screw is. Anyhow I bought a $35 nail gun from Lowe's. Hopefully it works well enough.

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post #47 of 120 Old 08-11-2014, 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by berstuck View Post
Cabinet grade redwood ply is $35 at home depot.
Does that mean red oak plywood? I figured it would be more than that for 3/4". It's $50 on their site.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded...5956/100046409

Read the reviews, they're kind of scary, lots of warping going on. 13 ply baltic birch is the way to go in my opinion but that isn't compatible with your goals.
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post #48 of 120 Old 08-11-2014, 03:54 PM
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Craigslist ad here for mdf core ash plywood b1 grade. $15 a sheet. Is that ok?

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post #49 of 120 Old 08-11-2014, 03:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corndogggy View Post
I've had those Harbor Freight $20 specials, they don't last, but not because of why some people think. They actually work ok at first, but the problem is that they very quickly get to the point where the piston fires a brad but then gets stuck. At that point you have to stop and take a thin screwdriver to shove the piston back into the housing. It is extremely ghetto. I have bought multiple Hitachi units and they work very well.

Personally though, I can't wrap my head around the idea that people are friggin brad nailing a multi-thousand watt subwoofer setup with multiple 18's that weighs well into the triple digits. Get some good plywood and Kreg screw the thing. Yeah I realize it's glued and that's doing most of the work, but still.
Glue does all the work. Brad nails just allow me to put whole sub together in an hour instead of waiting for glue to dry and taking the whole day.
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post #50 of 120 Old 08-11-2014, 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by berstuck View Post
I don't know what a kreg screw is.
aka. pocket screws. Basically you get a jig and clamp it to the edge of a sheet of wood and drill a hole into the end at about a 30 degree angle maybe, stopping just under the surface, which leaves a flat surface on the inside. When you glue up two pieces of wood, you clamp them together then take these screws and fire them into the hole. The screw disappears under the surface and you don't have anything showing on the outside, unlike firing a nail or brad through the exterior. Ends up looking like the picture below, very strong with no external anything, everything is on the inside. It does take awhile if you aren't used to it though, as you have to think about every single hole. Actually doing it isn't bad.

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post #51 of 120 Old 08-11-2014, 04:21 PM
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Here's the link to the home depot ply
http://m.homedepot.com/p/3-4-in-x-4-...KSB/205065277/

Nevermind the clist ad. It was only 3/8.

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post #52 of 120 Old 08-11-2014, 04:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by berstuck View Post
Here's the link to the home depot ply
http://m.homedepot.com/p/3-4-in-x-4-...KSB/205065277/

Nevermind the clist ad. It was only 3/8.
If you can get a higher ply count, it'll generally be better. Can't really see what's there. I've built stuff with like 5 ply and it was ok, but I wasn't happy using it. 11 ply is good.

You might want to go checkout a lumber yard and see what they have available. Check out some birch plies and such.


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post #53 of 120 Old 08-11-2014, 07:47 PM
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What are everyone's thoughts on cheap track saws. The shop fox track saw is under 300, and a cheap saw plus the ez track is about the same money.

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post #54 of 120 Old 08-11-2014, 09:13 PM
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Good looking design!!

Blasting brown notes for 10 years and counting!

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post #55 of 120 Old 08-11-2014, 09:14 PM - Thread Starter
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I'll be away from the forum for a week I hope everyone can help Berstuck along the way


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post #56 of 120 Old 08-11-2014, 10:20 PM
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Ok after getting home and doing some more digging I've settled on this for a saw.
https://www.grizzly.com/products/Tra...er-Pack/T25552
It's 265 with shipping. Cheapest track saw I could find.

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post #57 of 120 Old 08-11-2014, 10:21 PM
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And I'll probably buy a cheap harbor freight plunge router. I know people hate them, but I gotta go as cheap as possible where I can.

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post #58 of 120 Old 08-12-2014, 10:32 AM
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the difference in the calculators is for slot port correction. the straight slot ports that were done in marty subs needed some correction factor too or they tuned too low.


not's build has a 90 degree bend, which has the effect of increases the port length because it doesn't flow as well as a straight port (at least that's my theory).


this size cab is also effectively the same as two full size front firing marty's (i'm not sure if that makes it a 'double-wide' or just a 'fat marty' :-)), so all the drivers that would work in that one will work in this one...stereo integrity ht18, uxl, 460ho, etc. as that question always seems to get asked.


also, there are a number of 15" drivers that would work in this enclosure as a quad set.


I like the approach to form factor as it keeps the cuts to a minimum (heck, home depot might even be able to make most of the cuts for you). having a simple plan, picture, and cut sheet for folks who don't want to try to design from scratch is awesome.


nice work 'not.


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post #59 of 120 Old 08-12-2014, 01:14 PM
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I like this plan. But was wondering if the length would be increased to 96 and the depth to 23 and height to 23 and went sealed, would 4 - 18's work or would 4 - 15's be better?

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post #60 of 120 Old 08-12-2014, 04:01 PM
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Quote:
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The beauty of this build is that all long edges are 48", so all the cuts except the bracing are just across the sheet of plywood.
Something that keeps bugging me is whether or not full sheets of plywood sitting at Lowes is perfect enough to use multiple edges on. I don't really know if it is or not, I would assume the edges would often have several imperfections and whatnot. I have these same drivers so I'm genuinely curious.
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