The Berstuck Box: 2xUM18-22 in 25 Cubic Feet at 16Hz - Page 3 - AVS Forum
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post #61 of 119 Old 08-12-2014, 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post
this size cab is also effectively the same as two full size front firing marty's (i'm not sure if that makes it a 'double-wide' or just a 'fat marty' :-)), so all the drivers that would work in that one will work in this one...stereo integrity ht18, uxl, 460ho, etc. as that question always seems to get asked.
Since my wife will probably kick me out when I'm done you could just call this the "double wide" in honor of my new home.
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post #62 of 119 Old 08-12-2014, 10:44 PM
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Ok I ordered in my track saw today. Once I get everything up and running I'll start posting some pics of my box progress. Still haven't decided on what wood to use, but I'll probably buy mdf and try to use the track to trim the inch off.

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post #63 of 119 Old 08-13-2014, 05:52 AM
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MDF is my suggestion.


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post #64 of 119 Old 08-13-2014, 06:31 AM
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Originally Posted by corndogggy View Post
Something that keeps bugging me is whether or not full sheets of plywood sitting at Lowes is perfect enough to use multiple edges on. I don't really know if it is or not, I would assume the edges would often have several imperfections and whatnot. I have these same drivers so I'm genuinely curious.
The ones I've looked at from home depot and lowes look perfect. Just take a tape measure or something and measure it to see if it's good.


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post #65 of 119 Old 08-13-2014, 08:06 AM
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IMHO, the Makita have a better guide and are generally a bit higher quality than the bosch dollar for dollar for circular saws. I've had both and prefer the Makita.
Plus one with this. Even my friend whose a framer won't spend his money on new saw unless its a makita.
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post #66 of 119 Old 08-13-2014, 10:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by berstuck View Post
Ok I ordered in my track saw today. Once I get everything up and running I'll start posting some pics of my box progress. Still haven't decided on what wood to use, but I'll probably buy mdf and try to use the track to trim the inch off.
If you build it out of MDF that box will easily weigh 200lbs
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post #67 of 119 Old 08-13-2014, 01:49 PM
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MDF - 200lb box could be a good thing it shouldn't move around too much..


This might be the box I was looking for I still have some time before I decide.
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post #68 of 119 Old 08-13-2014, 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by traider79 View Post
MDF - 200lb box could be a good thing it shouldn't move around too much..


This might be the box I was looking for I still have some time before I decide.

The cabinets I built are only 32"wide, 22"deep and 40" high and are made out of plywood and they don't move around at all. I built two from plywood and the second two are built from Superlite MDF, neither sub move at all.
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post #69 of 119 Old 08-14-2014, 02:57 AM
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Originally Posted by jbrown15 View Post
The cabinets I built are only 32"wide, 22"deep and 40" high and are made out of plywood and they don't move around at all. I built two from plywood and the second two are built from Superlite MDF, neither sub move at all.
Hey there, jbrown! What was the weight diff between the two matched sub cabinets, but differing materials?


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post #70 of 119 Old 08-14-2014, 10:01 AM
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Hey there, jbrown! What was the weight diff between the two matched sub cabinets, but differing materials?
I didn't actually weigh them on a scale but I would say that the Superlite MDF was a little lighter then the plywood that I used. Both cabinets had lots of bracing and were easily strong enough for me to jump and down on if I wanted too....lol
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post #71 of 119 Old 08-14-2014, 11:31 AM
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Superlight mdf is 62lbs a sheet. Plywood is around the same.
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post #72 of 119 Old 08-14-2014, 01:28 PM
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Looks like my saw will be here tomorrow! But I'm too broke to buy wood right now. Oh well, next paycheck I can get started. Might have to start dropping all my old gear on ebay.

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post #73 of 119 Old 08-14-2014, 10:59 PM
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So what do I use for measuring long cuts? Do I need to buy a 4 foot square or use a tape measure?

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post #74 of 119 Old 08-15-2014, 09:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by berstuck View Post
So what do I use for measuring long cuts? Do I need to buy a 4 foot square or use a tape measure?

Your track saw should have came with a track that will make the long cuts straight. Just measure on each end of the cut and place the track in place, clamp it down, and rip the cut. It's the easiest cutting tool I've ever used. If don't want to use the track or don't have a long enough track then use a factory edge of the sheet of wood to draw your line and after you rip the first piece you'll have that factory edge to draw any other cut lines.

Oh and make sure to follow the instructions regarding your track saw track cutting guide. Mine has a black plastic guide on each side of the track that had to be ripped with the first cut for it to be operational. After that first rip it then lines up perfectly where it's placed on the cutting surface. So if yours is similar then you would need to place the track closer to the 8' edge on your first rip, leaving about 1/4" or so to rip again after it's calibrated. And don't forget that both sides of the track will need to be calibrated. I have two different tracks, a long one for 8'+ and a short one for 4'+. Your measurement marks with a tape measure will determine how accurate your cuts will be once the tracks are calibrated. So use a sharp pencil or pen and make a short accurate mark on each end of the sheet that the track will line up with.

A 4' square is always nice to have for general carpentry work/drywall work too. Worth the investment if will be doing any work in the future for sure but not needed at all with a track saw and shouldn't be used really since a measurement on each end of the cut is what is needed to line the track up.

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post #75 of 119 Old 08-15-2014, 09:45 AM
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And just a suggestion. An extra sheet of wood to use as a base or cutting surface will make your life much much easier. I have a table that is the size of a full sheet that I just replace the cutting sheet on every now and then. But a table isn't necessary. You can lay the cutting sheet on the floor or on a few saw horses and still get by just fine. Just make sure to set the plunge on the saw to barely go into the cutting sheet. OSB or any type of wood will work as long as it's pretty close to the same size as your working pieces.
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post #76 of 119 Old 08-15-2014, 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by audiovideoholic View Post
And just a suggestion. An extra sheet of wood to use as a base or cutting surface will make your life much much easier. I have a table that is the size of a full sheet that I just replace the cutting sheet on every now and then. But a table isn't necessary. You can lay the cutting sheet on the floor or on a few saw horses and still get by just fine. Just make sure to set the plunge on the saw to barely go into the cutting sheet. OSB or any type of wood will work as long as it's pretty close to the same size as your working pieces.
There's a sheet of plywood that's been on the side of the house for a few years. And I bought some sawhorse brackets. Planned on using that as my work surface. Maybe add a sheet of foam in there if needed.

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post #77 of 119 Old 08-15-2014, 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by berstuck View Post
There's a sheet of plywood that's been on the side of the house for a few years. And I bought some sawhorse brackets. Planned on using that as my work surface. Maybe add a sheet of foam in there if needed.


That should work fine.
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post #78 of 119 Old 08-18-2014, 06:21 PM
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How are things coming along?


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post #79 of 119 Old 08-18-2014, 10:20 PM
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Waiting on funds for wood, router and clamps. I can't imagine it will take too long. Got a chance to play with the track saw using some scrap plywood. It gave me confidence I'll be able to make nice straight accurate cuts.

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post #80 of 119 Old 08-18-2014, 11:19 PM
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Thats good to hear. My projects always take a long time due to very little funds. Glad your at least getting some practice in.


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post #81 of 119 Old 08-23-2014, 08:30 PM
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Picked up a router and clamps. Now I need a jasper circle jig, and some router bits. Basically done with tools now, wood is next!
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post #82 of 119 Old 08-24-2014, 12:50 AM
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Getting closer.......


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post #83 of 119 Old 08-24-2014, 09:18 AM
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Ordered the jig and router bits. I'll get the wood in here soon. That part is a pain in the ass for me though, I have no truck. I'll have to get my mother in law to help me out, and get help with the kids, but either way I'll get it done pretty soon.

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post #84 of 119 Old 08-24-2014, 04:32 PM
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You could have HD or other cut the sizes down. Or can you not fit a 48x48" piece in your car?


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post #85 of 119 Old 08-24-2014, 04:37 PM
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No 4'x4' will fit in my bmw. lol, not even close. Either way I'll be up and running soon enough.

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post #86 of 119 Old 08-31-2014, 08:10 AM
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post #87 of 119 Old 08-31-2014, 01:43 PM
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Just got back from my local ace hardware. Picked up the 4 sheets of mdf they had, and a piece of foam insulation to cut on top of. I need to get an adapter to use the dust port on my saw, but I'll be started on the first sub shortly. I'll make sure to take some pics of my dirty ass garage along the way!

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post #88 of 119 Old 08-31-2014, 05:06 PM
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If it ain't dirty now it soon will be. I spent a couple of hours today sanding and routing MDF. .. Should have worn a respirator.

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post #89 of 119 Old 09-01-2014, 08:46 AM
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Picked up the 4 sheets of mdf they had, and a piece of foam insulation to cut on top of.
Hm. The foam insulation is a good idea. How big and what thickness did you get?

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post #90 of 119 Old 09-01-2014, 09:47 AM
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It was a 4 x 8 sheet of inch and a half.

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