The Berstuck Box: 2xUM18-22 in 25 Cubic Feet at 16Hz - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 122 Old 08-10-2014, 07:44 PM - Thread Starter
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Exclamation The Berstuck Box: 2xUM18-22 in 25 Cubic Feet at 16Hz

So @berstuck was looking for a build for his theater with a budget of $2000. I put this together, which should absolutely pound, consisting of two of these enclosures and two iNuke 6000's. The enclosure is designed to take 2x UM18-22 and is tuned to 16hz. Box volume excluding port and speakers is about 25 cubic feet. A 14Hz Butterwith highpass filter is required to keep excursion in check. Using two of these enclosures with 4 UM18-22 models out to 130db @ 1m ground plane.

The beauty of this build is that all long edges are 48", so all the cuts except the bracing are just across the sheet of plywood. Doesn't get much simpler. Takes 3 sheets and there should be enough left for a good bit of bracing.

Anyway, WinISD project, sketchup, and cut lists attached here.

The enclosure:


Box size:


Vent info:


Filter info:


SPL with 3000 watts to the enclosure:


Excursion with 3000 watts:


Port velocity with 3000 watts:


Super simple cut list:




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Last edited by notnyt; 08-11-2014 at 07:43 AM.
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post #2 of 122 Old 08-10-2014, 08:15 PM
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Sweet Jesus!
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post #3 of 122 Old 08-10-2014, 08:33 PM
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Looks good! I hope you are planning on putting some pretty serious bracing inside that cabinet though. As pictured there are huge un-braced spans!
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post #4 of 122 Old 08-10-2014, 08:40 PM
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Notnyt is a very generous man. He designed this solution for me, and I couldn't be more grateful. So the plan is for two of them, one on either side of my center channel. It will be a wall of speakers when it's all said and done. I'm sure my wife will love it. I'll get a build thread up all quick like.
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post #5 of 122 Old 08-10-2014, 08:46 PM
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Isn't this basically the same design he built for himself?
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post #6 of 122 Old 08-10-2014, 09:06 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the-jessman View Post
Looks good! I hope you are planning on putting some pretty serious bracing inside that cabinet though. As pictured there are huge un-braced spans!
Bracing wasn't included in the sketchup. No need for that really. Easy enough to copy from one of my builds or use any style of effective bracing you want.

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Originally Posted by jbrown15 View Post
Isn't this basically the same design he built for himself?
Similar, different dimensions of the enclosure, and then port/box tuned to the model. It's a MUCH easier build and requires a sheet less ply. I didn't just rotate my design 90 degrees.


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post #7 of 122 Old 08-10-2014, 09:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by notnyt View Post
I didn't just rotate my design 90 degrees.
So you turned it 90 degrees and made it 24" deep instead of 30" then?
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post #8 of 122 Old 08-10-2014, 09:27 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbrown15 View Post
So you turned it 90 degrees and made it 24" deep instead of 30" then?
Why the hate? Did I crap in your cornflakes or something?

It's 24" deep as requested, it's also taller and wider. The vent is also shorter, narrower, and tuned slightly higher. Not one component was left unchanged between designs. I didn't even bother turning it 90 degrees to start with, however he didn't have the extra 1.5" needed to make it a really simple build in that orientation.

The vents had to be in the front, as there is no room on the sides or back, and the top would be aiming up at his screen. So yes, it looks similar to mine. I would have changed the port to simplify things since it's short enough to fit on one side if there was a side it would work on. It's a generic slot ported enclosure. However, it's all modeled out, sketched up, and cut sheets provided. Sorry for doing something nice for the community?
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Last edited by notnyt; 08-10-2014 at 10:17 PM.
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post #9 of 122 Old 08-10-2014, 09:34 PM
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Hate ^^^ Simple comment not something like the design is poor. You are often brunt in your comments and don't use emocons often. He did the same as you do and he's a hater ???
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post #10 of 122 Old 08-10-2014, 09:36 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post
Hate ^^^ Simple comment not something like the design is poor. You are often brunt in your comments and don't use emocons often. He did the same as you do and he's a hater ???
The comments seemed intended to trivialize the effort. I don't really see any other way to interpret it after the second response. Anyway, getting off track.


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post #11 of 122 Old 08-10-2014, 09:37 PM
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This design was a result of notnyt replying to my previous thread. If a slight modification of his previous design met my current goals so be it. No need for a **** fest here. I for one appreciate the help. Especially considering it was customized to meet my specific needs.

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post #12 of 122 Old 08-10-2014, 09:39 PM
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It's worth mentioning I almost certainly won't be using 3k watts per enclosure to begin with. Cost appropriate strategy is an inuke 6k to start. I like that the sub has the capability to handle much more power though should I decide to upgrade at some point. This is going to be an awesome project.

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post #13 of 122 Old 08-10-2014, 09:42 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by berstuck View Post
It's worth mentioning I almost certainly won't be using 3k watts per enclosure to begin with. Cost appropriate strategy is an inuke 6k to start. I like that the sub has the capability to handle much more power though should I decide to upgrade at some point. This is going to be an awesome project.
nu6000 should be able to put out 3kw burst x 2 and 1500w rms x 2 if I remember correctly. Granted, that's at 4 ohms, and each of these drivers is over 4 ohms. So at 8 ohms, it will be like 1600w peak per channel. An IPR2 7500 would match up better, but its double the cost and lacks DSP. If the funds allow, that might be a better idea. Perhaps two NU6000s

It's modeled there to show how it will perform with those peak signal levels. What it shows is that air velocity and excursion will be well under control with that amount of power.


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Last edited by notnyt; 08-10-2014 at 10:08 PM.
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post #14 of 122 Old 08-10-2014, 10:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by berstuck View Post
It's worth mentioning I almost certainly won't be using 3k watts per enclosure to begin with. Cost appropriate strategy is an inuke 6k to start. I like that the sub has the capability to handle much more power though should I decide to upgrade at some point. This is going to be an awesome project.
Two NU6000DSP or two NU6000 and a MiniDSP are the same cost One per box would be awesome haha.


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post #15 of 122 Old 08-10-2014, 10:24 PM
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Originally Posted by notnyt View Post
Two NU6000DSP or two NU6000 and a MiniDSP are the same cost One per box would be awesome haha.
Yeah I'm totally on board with lots of power. Initially a single inuke will probably have to suffice due to cost. The fact that I can simply add another for more output later on is really appealing to me. I'll probably wire up four binding posts initially to make sure any upgrade path is easy.

No need I think for a seperate build thread. A lot of good info here already we'll just keep it rolling.

I've already read @Gorilla83 awesome diy faq post a couple of times. But I want some individualized advice here if possible. If you read my previous thread you'll know I have no diy experience. No woodworking experience at all. And no access to anyone who has it. Fortunately Not's made this an easy build. I want the most cost effective route possible as far as tools. I'll be buying clamps, a brad nailer, a plunge router, a circular saw, and a straight edge clamp. I already have some sawhorse brackets and a spare piece of plywood to make a work surface out of. Any recommendations on saw or router from lowes or home depot. I'm not sure if I should buy a cheap skill saw or spring for something in the 100 dollar range. Going to be trying my hand at building these subs, doing some diy corner bass traps, and probably try to build an equipment rack on casters.

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post #16 of 122 Old 08-10-2014, 10:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by notnyt View Post
Why the hate? Did I crap in your cornflakes or something?

It's 24" deep as requested, it's also taller and wider. The vent is also shorter, narrower, and tuned slightly higher. Not one component was left unchanged between designs. I didn't even bother turning it 90 degrees to start with, however he didn't have the extra 1.5" needed to make it a really simple build in that orientation.

The vents had to be in the front, as there is no room on the sides or back, and the top would be aiming up at his screen. So yes, it looks similar to mine. I would have changed the port to simplify things since it's short enough to fit on one side if there was a side it would work on. It's a generic slot ported enclosure. However, it's all modeled out, sketched up, and cut sheets provided. Sorry for doing something nice for the community?
Dude, how is asking two questions equal hate? Why are you so defensive? I was just wondering.
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post #17 of 122 Old 08-10-2014, 10:31 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbrown15 View Post
Dude, how is asking two questions equal hate? Why are you so defensive? I was just wondering.

I apologize if that's not the case, it seemed snide. Either way, I explained the changes. I have to deal with a lot of crap like that in a few of my jobs, so it carries over to other arenas sometimes.

<3


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post #18 of 122 Old 08-10-2014, 11:04 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by berstuck View Post
Yeah I'm totally on board with lots of power. Initially a single inuke will probably have to suffice due to cost. The fact that I can simply add another for more output later on is really appealing to me. I'll probably wire up four binding posts initially to make sure any upgrade path is easy.

No need I think for a seperate build thread. A lot of good info here already we'll just keep it rolling.

I've already read @Gorilla83 awesome diy faq post a couple of times. But I want some individualized advice here if possible. If you read my previous thread you'll know I have no diy experience. No woodworking experience at all. And no access to anyone who has it. Fortunately Not's made this an easy build. I want the most cost effective route possible as far as tools. I'll be buying clamps, a brad nailer, a plunge router, a circular saw, and a straight edge clamp. I already have some sawhorse brackets and a spare piece of plywood to make a work surface out of. Any recommendations on saw or router from lowes or home depot. I'm not sure if I should buy a cheap skill saw or spring for something in the 100 dollar range. Going to be trying my hand at building these subs, doing some diy corner bass traps, and probably try to build an equipment rack on casters.
I know it's not what you want to hear, but I bought a track saw and it was the best thing ever Granted, those are fairly expensive. The problem with the cheap circular saws is the blades can have some play and you may not get a nice edge. A worm drive circular saw is pretty nice, but generally closer to $200. A decent circular saw can be had for a bit over $100. http://www.amazon.com/Makita-5007F-7...dp/B004YIALZI/ for example. Not sure what to recommend for a router, perhaps someone else can suggest something. If you're just going to use them for cutting out the speaker holes, a jigsaw can also work, you just gotta be precise with it.


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post #19 of 122 Old 08-10-2014, 11:17 PM
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To me for your budget I'd buy a Bosch skillsaw. Done a couple thousand with mine and very accurate . Cost is around 100$. I wouldn't go cheaper. Skillsaw is useful for a lot of stuff and you will have it for years. Get a straight edge for now and you will be fine. Start building a box a week and you will want something like a tracksaw.

Don't need a big plunge router. Love my Bosch ( yes I like Bosch ) laminate router. In past six months I've used it for over a 100 driver cutouts, edges, and its easier to use then full size. Only advantage full size has is cutting a large number of deep cuts. If I was cutting out 4 or more cutouts a day then I'd get 3hp.
I'd spend a little extra on brad nailer. Yes harbour freight has one for 20 bucks but I think the Porter cable is worth the 70 bucks. I do go cheap for some stuff : clamps, but a good nailer, skillsaw, and router will last you 10 plus years. Once you build a coupleof subs you will be addicted and start building other stuff around yur house.
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post #20 of 122 Old 08-10-2014, 11:23 PM
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I really like the size. I am thinking turn this sub side down, put some legs on it and some upholstery and it might be the perfect ottoman. I'll add it to my convince the better half list.
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post #21 of 122 Old 08-10-2014, 11:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post
To me for your budget I'd buy a Bosch skillsaw. Done a couple thousand with mine and very accurate . Cost is around 100$. I wouldn't go cheaper. Skillsaw is useful for a lot of stuff and you will have it for years. Get a straight edge for now and you will be fine. Start building a box a week and you will want something like a tracksaw.

Don't need a big plunge router. Love my Bosch ( yes I like Bosch ) laminate router. In past six months I've used it for over a 100 driver cutouts, edges, and its easier to use then full size. Only advantage full size has is cutting a large number of deep cuts. If I was cutting out 4 or more cutouts a day then I'd get 3hp.
I'd spend a little extra on brad nailer. Yes harbour freight has one for 20 bucks but I think the Porter cable is worth the 70 bucks. I do go cheap for some stuff : clamps, but a good nailer, skillsaw, and router will last you 10 plus years. Once you build a coupleof subs you will be addicted and start building other stuff around yur house.
IMHO, the Makita have a better guide and are generally a bit higher quality than the bosch dollar for dollar for circular saws. I've had both and prefer the Makita.


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post #22 of 122 Old 08-10-2014, 11:26 PM - Thread Starter
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I really like the size. I am thinking turn this sub side down, put some legs on it and some upholstery and it might be the perfect ottoman. I'll add it to my convince the better half list.
If you do that you can move the port to one of the sides and have a simpler build =] No 90 degree bend, just a straight port. If you're serious and you decide you want to do this, I'll adjust model and send you a cut sheet. Just let me know.


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post #23 of 122 Old 08-10-2014, 11:35 PM
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I think the port would need to stay as is to hide the drivers and the port on the bottom, correct? Either way, thanks very much for the kind offer! I am a few months out before I can build anything as I am moving to a new place.
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post #24 of 122 Old 08-10-2014, 11:42 PM - Thread Starter
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I think the port would need to stay as is to hide the drivers and the port on the bottom, correct? Either way, thanks very much for the kind offer! I am a few months out before I can build anything as I am moving to a new place.
It would have to be raised off the floor by a good amount otherwise the port will be firing right at the floor. It may lower tuning of the box slightly. Has to be at least like 4" off the floor. Should work though.


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post #25 of 122 Old 08-11-2014, 02:54 AM
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Awesome work Notnyt. Providing a sketchup model Sims and cutsheet. Wish I could be as quick at sketchup. Takes me forever to make a speaker.


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post #26 of 122 Old 08-11-2014, 06:41 AM
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If doing this with MDF, won't you have to cut an inch off each of the pieces? A sheet of MDF is 49 inches wide and 97 inches long.

Probably easier to just add an inch to all the dimensions of the design, I guess it doesn't matter as long as all the cuts are consistent to the size of the MDF, the design will still work, just be an extra inch wide.


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post #27 of 122 Old 08-11-2014, 07:42 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Bassment View Post
If doing this with MDF, won't you have to cut an inch off each of the pieces? A sheet of MDF is 49 inches wide and 97 inches long.

Probably easier to just add an inch to all the dimensions of the design, I guess it doesn't matter as long as all the cuts are consistent to the size of the MDF, the design will still work, just be an extra inch wide.
Hm, good point, probably better off with ply, or just rip 1" off the boards.


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post #28 of 122 Old 08-11-2014, 10:27 AM
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big ported boxes kick ass. I like it.
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post #29 of 122 Old 08-11-2014, 10:41 AM
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Well I ordered in a bora 50 inch clamp on edge guide, and a pneumatic nailer. Still deciding on saw and router, but I'll get those in soon. The cost difference between cheap maple plywood and mdf is about 50 bucks per sub. Am I correct in assuming that trimming off that extra inch is not that big of a deal? Any other advantages to the plywood?

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post #30 of 122 Old 08-11-2014, 11:08 AM
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Can i ask how you arrived at that port length , trying to figure out Sot Ports,..How many cuft Net ?

Thanks

Last edited by randyc1; 08-11-2014 at 11:12 AM.
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