2 Martycubes and a iNuke 3000dsp - Page 2 - AVS Forum
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post #31 of 76 Old 08-15-2014, 06:32 AM
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You dont need a splitter to have independent gain. See link above...
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post #32 of 76 Old 08-15-2014, 06:37 AM - Thread Starter
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I did not get to HD last night as it was raining. Did not want to risk getting the mdf wet.

I will take photos along the way as best as possible. This cube project was going to happen a lot sooner but ended up building and buying other things. This forum tends to do that to you, lol.

Here was my last build.

TV / Projector screen console build.

I was originally going to build the marty cubes out of the oak ply and match the stand and valance. But down the road these will be in a dedicated room so they will be duratex.
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post #33 of 76 Old 08-15-2014, 06:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by splotten View Post
Take a look at post #118 to #121 in this thread:

Someone hold my hand
those were the settings I was reffering to. I am planning on firing mine up like that this weekend. if they dont work, I guess I gotta order more crap from parts express and wait another week to play

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post #34 of 76 Old 08-15-2014, 07:03 AM
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There is no reason to believe it wont work. Just get it going and report back to confirm. If you cant get it going take some screen shots from the dsp software and I'm sure we can figure out whats wrong.
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post #35 of 76 Old 08-15-2014, 10:29 AM
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"However, you lose the ability to control the two subs independently (which I need). "


not sure why that would be the case. channel a and channel b options are all available for independent control with biamp 1.

I mistakenly assumed that the crossover in biamp on one channel had to be higher than the other channel, which is the way it would typically be done, but it appears that is not the case. thanks for the correction splotten.

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post #36 of 76 Old 08-15-2014, 12:04 PM
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I dont have the software handy to mess with it, but as per the Behringer manual, it says the Biamp is for one hi freq speaker and a low freq driver. Will it have the same crossover functions on both channels on this mode?
The manual makes it seem like it would not.

BIAMP1 mode splits the Channel A input signal at a programmable frequency
point, and then routes the resulting high and low frequency signals through
a parallel chain of DSP modules with independent equalization, signal delay,
and limiter settings. In BIAMP1 mode, Output A routes low frequencies to a
low-range speaker, while Output B connects to a high-frequency transducer.


Clarification on this for who has done it successfully?


Last edited by PM-Performance; 08-15-2014 at 12:09 PM.
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post #37 of 76 Old 08-15-2014, 12:44 PM
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It is much easier to understand it when you have the software. It can be downloaded from the web site. You must turn off "channel Link" in the "configuration" tab and turn off "X-over" in the "filter/crossover" tab. That way you have independent control over each subwoofer. Notice you also have independent gain from within the dsp. If you need it you can still set high and low pass filters (not in pictures)

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Last edited by splotten; 08-15-2014 at 12:47 PM.
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post #38 of 76 Old 08-15-2014, 12:56 PM
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The iNuke DSP software can be downloaded directly from this link. It can be run without any amp hooked up, so one can explore the available features.
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post #39 of 76 Old 08-15-2014, 01:06 PM
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by clicking on "x-over" it can be turned on or off. turn that one off (i.e. gray it out).


then, high pass and low pass settings can be adjusted for each channel independently.


this crazy example just shows that one has full independent control over the high and low pass settings and levels. eq, on another tab, can be adjusted independently as well.


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post #40 of 76 Old 08-15-2014, 01:09 PM
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I cant download at work, I was gonna play with it at work today. Ill download it tonight on one of my laptops and tinker with it after I finish my final duratex coat on my boxes. I was planning on firing everything up tommorow


Last edited by PM-Performance; 08-15-2014 at 01:30 PM.
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post #41 of 76 Old 08-15-2014, 01:14 PM
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Someone wonder if running in bridge mode at 3000 watts was to much. The I Nuke DSP amp all have limiters . This will lower the wattage if needed.

Klipsch RF 7 based HT 7.4, Pioneer SC 35, Acurus 200 Five, Dayton 18 Ultimxa Dual Sub Cab(2), Dayton 18 Ultimax Large Vented Sub Cab (2), on Berhinger I Nuke DPS amps, Aura Bass shakers, Samsung BDP F 7500, Asus/My Book Live HPC 4 TB

Yaquin VK 2100 amp, McIntosh XR 5 speakers, Samsung BDP F 7500
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post #42 of 76 Old 08-15-2014, 05:31 PM - Thread Starter
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I just got my SI 18d4 tracking numbers. :-)
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post #43 of 76 Old 08-16-2014, 11:36 AM
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OK, I played with the software this morning and confirmed with the link on, only one of the output light sets light up and uncheched, they both are activated, so good on that.

Any advise on setting the limters and Xover points to start for the SI's?

I started with the limiters at 1250W and delay defaulted to like 200ms?

I set the screen shown above for the Butterworth +12DB. What to set the freq for HP and LP on this screen?
Gains both set to 4.0 and looks like at reference everything is getting to the last blink light with the clip only coming on once in a while on some super bass heavy screens.
I went into the EQ and set the -4DB and HMS and 20HZ to kick the hi pass to 16hz from another thread.

Looks like channel B registers a tad higher than channel A for some reason. Any ideas on this? Normal? Or could it just be the soundtrack I happened to use?

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post #44 of 76 Old 08-20-2014, 08:45 AM - Thread Starter
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My 2 sid4's get delivered today. I'm buying wood tomorrow night and hope to start cutting this weekend.
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post #45 of 76 Old 08-20-2014, 10:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluer101 View Post
My 2 sid4's get delivered today. I'm buying wood tomorrow night and hope to start cutting this weekend.
congrats! post pics of the build process

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post #46 of 76 Old 08-20-2014, 03:10 PM - Thread Starter
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Pictures don't do them justice, they are huge!


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post #47 of 76 Old 08-22-2014, 06:54 PM - Thread Starter
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Well getting my wood in the morning and doing the cuts. But today I went to Harbor Freight to buy some extra tools. They were having a sidewalk sale.

I ending up buy some more clamps, can't have enough. I also bought their 18 gauge brad nailer on sale for $16.99 from $35. Then they had a canopy 10x10 tent for $59. I don't want to cut this stuff in the garage so it will help in the FL sun.
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post #48 of 76 Old 08-23-2014, 10:12 AM - Thread Starter
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It's begun.

After HD just cutting the 49x97 in half. I did not want them to cut at 24" just incase.



I decided to do all the 24" cuts first at home. Straight cut jig makes it easy. I made one template then used that for all of them.



Now all the 24" are cut, 20 of them total.



Started to rain but the tent helps. Good old FL for ya.

Next getting out the table saw to do the other cuts now they are in easy to handle size.

More later, taking a breather.
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post #49 of 76 Old 08-23-2014, 12:53 PM - Thread Starter
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Ok first was lunch, Subway thanks to the wife.



This is why you don't cut MDF inside or without a mask.



All cut except subwoofer holes and bracing.



Dry fit, this part puts a smile on your face!





That's it for today. That's about 3-4 hours for 2 cubes not bad.
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post #50 of 76 Old 08-23-2014, 04:13 PM
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Looking good [emoji482][emoji482][emoji482]
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post #51 of 76 Old 08-24-2014, 06:44 PM - Thread Starter
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Cutting circles with the homemade jig.



All cut.



Sorry no In between photos, having fun with my brad nailer.





Next step bracing then build cube 2.
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post #52 of 76 Old 08-24-2014, 06:45 PM
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Looks good
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post #53 of 76 Old 08-24-2014, 06:54 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Looks good
Thanks, it's getting there.
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post #54 of 76 Old 08-24-2014, 08:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post
what makes it all so very confusing is that a PAIR of D4 drivers can be wired and run off the inuke 3000 TWO WAYS that both produce the same real power to the drivers. forget the behringer product sheet. those numbers are not accurate.


the way that I would suggest is to wire each DRIVER in PARALLEL. that will give 2 ohms per DRIVER.


then, hook ONE DRIVER to each channel on the inuke.


that will give you about 1000 watts per driver.


on the speakon, 1+ is the positive (red) and 1- is the negative (black). the left and the right channel are both done the same way.


the picture in post #6 shows how to wire the driver in parallel. essentially all the reds get wired together. and then all the blacks get wired together.


2+ and 2- are NOT USED in either case.


make sure the bridged selector is NOT IN BRIDGED MODE or you will get no sound. this IS NOT BRIDGED MODE.


also a separate input will be needed from the avr into each channel on the inuke. use a splitter if your avr only has one sub output.
Quoting to find later since this new mobile theme blows donkey balls. But amazing instructions from the Man!
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post #55 of 76 Old 08-25-2014, 11:02 AM
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post #56 of 76 Old 08-25-2014, 01:09 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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really nice looking boxes. Cuts look accurate
Thanks.

Not bad for a skill saw and homemade jig. Then a ok table saw. Some of the cuts are too accurate and I needed to use a flush trim bit to remove a hair or too.
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post #57 of 76 Old 08-25-2014, 08:49 PM - Thread Starter
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No new pictures but built cube number 2 tonight. Now I have to do bracing, routing corners, and finish.

Also got my speakon parts from PE today so I need to build my wires. The duratex was on BO. I also have acoustic 1.5 foam coming also.

Last thing to order is the iNuke.
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post #58 of 76 Old 08-26-2014, 06:07 AM - Thread Starter
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post #59 of 76 Old 08-26-2014, 06:42 PM - Thread Starter
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Bracing done.

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post #60 of 76 Old 09-01-2014, 07:54 PM - Thread Starter
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Update.

With the long weekend it gave me some working time. This happened yesterday:


Never use Rustoleum Flat Black acrylic latex for a base coat on your cube.

I used this today ( at least I only tried one cube ) http://m.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-...502/100172539/ to give the cube a black base before duratex. I filled brad nails with drywall spackle per duratex instructions but the Rustoleum bubbled and did not stick to the spackle areas. So needless to say I spent the next 2 1/2 hours sanding back to mdf.

So now I have a really nice sanded cube. Should I just use the duratex without a base coat of black? I'm trying to get the duratex with very little texture too so I thought a base of black would work. Maybe hit it with 99 cent black spray bombs.

Here is a photo before the disaster. I first sanded the spackle smooth and applied the Rustoleum.



Oh and I built a detachable base for my cube's to give it a flare.



Then started on it again this morning. After starting the duratex outside in the heat I had to move inside with AC. The heat was asking the duratex dry way too fast. I could not even get one side done before getting to sticky. So I moved inside and ran to HD for some 4 inch 1/4 nap. Once back it was pretty easy from there. After getting hang on the duratex I think it came out great. The texture is real smooth and thin. Now I have the other cube to just fill seams/holes and sand. Here are some photos.

Before duratex, comparing to one or my Infinity 12 inch.



Nice and smooth.



I flush mounted the panel and is at the top back a the top of the port. With the right angle it is just hidden plus easy to disconnect being high up.



My custom made cables that match the rest in my setup.



Done for today but hope to be finished with both this week. I still need to mount the driver too.

I also glued 3/4 oak ply pieces where the driver screws go. I had left over oak from my console build, more biting power.





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