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2 Martycubes and a iNuke 3000dsp

16K views 100 replies 28 participants last post by  nwf477 
#1 ·
First of all I want to thank chalugadp, LTD02, plus everyone else who has contributed to these builds.

I have been going back and forth on building a pair of these cubes for months vs buying a pair of HSU subs. So with SI getting more subs it became a no brainer to proceed with the build.

So far I have ordered my 2 SI d4's about one week ago. So I can only assume a few more weeks to go before the subs arrive. So in the mean time I'm going to get building in the next week. I also need to order some speakon cables, connectors, and plates. I have to order the iNuke also.

I'm pretty set on the build as I'm pretty handy with woodworking. My issue is going to be with the wiring of the subs, cables, connectors, and iNuke. Could someone please post the correct wiring setup for the 2 cubes off of one iNuke 3000dsp?

I'm also going to take photos along the way. The other concern is will my other speakers keep up with these 2 cubes? Right now my setup is:

5.1 or 7.1 might add my other Beta 250's

Fronts: Infinity RS5 tower speakers
Center: Infinity CC3
Rears: Infinity Beta es250
Subs: 2 Infinity BU120 front corners
1 JBL 12 inch near field

The 2 cubes are hopefully going to replace all three subs and the 2 cubes will be front corners.

Thanks for any help along the way. :)
 
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#2 ·
Good choice in cubes over hsu. Save money and there better. Don't know those infinity speakers well but you will most likely find once you get the cubes running that more diy is in your future for l,c,r

Don't worry about wiring until you get it all ready. With d4 you will get close to 1100 watts for each.

There are lots of people here who will help you.

With avs builds , my orders, and atabea builds there are over 150 cube builds in the last few months.
 
#4 ·
Thanks guys,

With so many different build threads I'm confused on the wiring. Between one or 2 cubes, D2 vs D4, vs 3000dsp and 6000dsp it's crazy.

Will I be running the iNuke in bridged mode or in stereo?

Also I went to HD and Lowes last night and it seems like HD has better mdf. I'm planning on 3 full sheets and have them rip them into half long ways. I will do all the other cuts so I don't have to handle a 4x8 sheet, lol.

I also thought about using a RCA to xlr cable vs the adaptor.
 
#5 ·
I am in a similar situation as you. I do have my SI 18 D4 already and my box is complete besides for making it look pretty!

The wiring has been the hardest part so far. I am only going to be running 1 martycube. From what people have told me I am going to run my 3000dsp in bridged mode and setup my driver for 8ohm. I will then run the positive to the +1 on the speakon and the negative wire to +2.

Hope this helps. If not I am sure someone on this forum will be able to as they have been great so far
 
#9 · (Edited)
Yes, the diagram I included is per speaker. You will have 2 speaker wires within each box. And each box to a channel on the inuke.
1 wire within to connect the positive and negative VC together. The other wire to connect the VC to the speakon connector. All speakon connectors to the +1 &+2. You will only be using those 2 connections on the speakon, the other 2 remain unused.

Sent from my HTCONE using Tapatalk 4
 
#15 ·
I thought you had 2 D4's? If you do, run it in stereo and each channel at 2 ohms.
Not sure where bridging and 8 ohms is coming from. If you have two, no reason to bridge IMHO. If each channel will do 1500 watts, I do not see a benefit to bridging since that is already 3x the "rated power handling" anyway.

if you have one, than that is a different scenario, but even still running a single channel at 2ohms is still plenty over doing a bridged mode at 8ohms. I could be wrong on that one, but if you have two, I would go with the above.
 
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#17 ·
Yes I have 2 D4's on order from the next batch.

Pm ltd02 , get the correct answer and post back here. I get confused as well and want to know for sure.
Thanks, that sounds good as there is so much info out there. But what PM performance says is what I thought it was.

I'm just getting excited to have more bass. It should out perform my 3 12's.
 
#23 ·
They are pretty easy to put together once you see how they go.
I want to say they are expensive if you need longer runs. I got a 100ft spool of 12awg for like $30 and the connectors for like $3 a piece and made my own. Premade at 25ft were like $30 a piece I think
 
#27 ·
what makes it all so very confusing is that a PAIR of D4 drivers can be wired and run off the inuke 3000 TWO WAYS that both produce the same real power to the drivers. forget the behringer product sheet. those numbers are not accurate.


the way that I would suggest is to wire each DRIVER in PARALLEL. that will give 2 ohms per DRIVER.


then, hook ONE DRIVER to each channel on the inuke.


that will give you about 1000 watts per driver.


on the speakon, 1+ is the positive (red) and 1- is the negative (black). the left and the right channel are both done the same way.


the picture in post #6 shows how to wire the driver in parallel. essentially all the reds get wired together. and then all the blacks get wired together.


2+ and 2- are NOT USED in either case.


make sure the bridged selector is NOT IN BRIDGED MODE or you will get no sound. this IS NOT BRIDGED MODE.


also a separate input will be needed from the avr into each channel on the inuke. use a splitter if your avr only has one sub output.
 
#28 ·
also a separate input will be needed from the avr into each channel on the inuke. use a splitter if your avr only has one sub output.
when I asked about this the other day dorm one stated a splitter was not necessary and you could set it to stereo within the software without the extra input?
 
#33 ·
those were the settings I was reffering to. I am planning on firing mine up like that this weekend. if they dont work, I guess I gotta order more crap from parts express and wait another week to play
 
#32 ·
I did not get to HD last night as it was raining. Did not want to risk getting the mdf wet.

I will take photos along the way as best as possible. This cube project was going to happen a lot sooner but ended up building and buying other things. This forum tends to do that to you, lol.

Here was my last build.

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/15-ge...526213-tv-projector-screen-console-build.html

I was originally going to build the marty cubes out of the oak ply and match the stand and valance. But down the road these will be in a dedicated room so they will be duratex.
 
#35 ·
"However, you lose the ability to control the two subs independently (which I need). "


not sure why that would be the case. channel a and channel b options are all available for independent control with biamp 1.

I mistakenly assumed that the crossover in biamp on one channel had to be higher than the other channel, which is the way it would typically be done, but it appears that is not the case. thanks for the correction splotten.
 
#36 · (Edited)
I dont have the software handy to mess with it, but as per the Behringer manual, it says the Biamp is for one hi freq speaker and a low freq driver. Will it have the same crossover functions on both channels on this mode?
The manual makes it seem like it would not.

BIAMP1 mode splits the Channel A input signal at a programmable frequency
point, and then routes the resulting high and low frequency signals through
a parallel chain of DSP modules with independent equalization, signal delay,
and limiter settings. In BIAMP1 mode, Output A routes low frequencies to a
low-range speaker, while Output B connects to a high-frequency transducer.


Clarification on this for who has done it successfully?
 
#37 · (Edited)
It is much easier to understand it when you have the software. It can be downloaded from the web site. You must turn off "channel Link" in the "configuration" tab and turn off "X-over" in the "filter/crossover" tab. That way you have independent control over each subwoofer. Notice you also have independent gain from within the dsp. If you need it you can still set high and low pass filters (not in pictures)

Text Technology Audio equipment Electronic device Multimedia


Audio equipment Technology Electronics Text Electronic device
 
#39 ·
by clicking on "x-over" it can be turned on or off. turn that one off (i.e. gray it out).


then, high pass and low pass settings can be adjusted for each channel independently.


this crazy example just shows that one has full independent control over the high and low pass settings and levels. eq, on another tab, can be adjusted independently as well.


 

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#40 · (Edited)
I cant download at work, I was gonna play with it at work today. Ill download it tonight on one of my laptops and tinker with it after I finish my final duratex coat on my boxes. I was planning on firing everything up tommorow
 
#43 ·
OK, I played with the software this morning and confirmed with the link on, only one of the output light sets light up and uncheched, they both are activated, so good on that.

Any advise on setting the limters and Xover points to start for the SI's?

I started with the limiters at 1250W and delay defaulted to like 200ms?

I set the screen shown above for the Butterworth +12DB. What to set the freq for HP and LP on this screen?
Gains both set to 4.0 and looks like at reference everything is getting to the last blink light with the clip only coming on once in a while on some super bass heavy screens.
I went into the EQ and set the -4DB and HMS and 20HZ to kick the hi pass to 16hz from another thread.

Looks like channel B registers a tad higher than channel A for some reason. Any ideas on this? Normal? Or could it just be the soundtrack I happened to use?
 
#44 ·
My 2 sid4's get delivered today. I'm buying wood tomorrow night and hope to start cutting this weekend.
 
#46 ·
Pictures don't do them justice, they are huge!


 
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