2 Martycubes and a iNuke 3000dsp - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 73 Old 08-12-2014, 08:09 PM - Thread Starter
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2 Martycubes and a iNuke 3000dsp

First of all I want to thank chalugadp, LTD02, plus everyone else who has contributed to these builds.

I have been going back and forth on building a pair of these cubes for months vs buying a pair of HSU subs. So with SI getting more subs it became a no brainer to proceed with the build.

So far I have ordered my 2 SI d4's about one week ago. So I can only assume a few more weeks to go before the subs arrive. So in the mean time I'm going to get building in the next week. I also need to order some speakon cables, connectors, and plates. I have to order the iNuke also.

I'm pretty set on the build as I'm pretty handy with woodworking. My issue is going to be with the wiring of the subs, cables, connectors, and iNuke. Could someone please post the correct wiring setup for the 2 cubes off of one iNuke 3000dsp?

I'm also going to take photos along the way. The other concern is will my other speakers keep up with these 2 cubes? Right now my setup is:

5.1 or 7.1 might add my other Beta 250's

Fronts: Infinity RS5 tower speakers
Center: Infinity CC3
Rears: Infinity Beta es250
Subs: 2 Infinity BU120 front corners
1 JBL 12 inch near field

The 2 cubes are hopefully going to replace all three subs and the 2 cubes will be front corners.

Thanks for any help along the way.
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post #2 of 73 Old 08-12-2014, 08:44 PM
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Good choice in cubes over hsu. Save money and there better. Don't know those infinity speakers well but you will most likely find once you get the cubes running that more diy is in your future for l,c,r

Don't worry about wiring until you get it all ready. With d4 you will get close to 1100 watts for each.

There are lots of people here who will help you.

With avs builds , my orders, and atabea builds there are over 150 cube builds in the last few months.
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post #3 of 73 Old 08-12-2014, 09:19 PM
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I'm in a similar situation, ordered my Si18 d4 and patiently waiting its arrival. I pretty much completed my Martycube with only the circle cuts left.
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post #4 of 73 Old 08-13-2014, 06:22 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks guys,

With so many different build threads I'm confused on the wiring. Between one or 2 cubes, D2 vs D4, vs 3000dsp and 6000dsp it's crazy.

Will I be running the iNuke in bridged mode or in stereo?

Also I went to HD and Lowes last night and it seems like HD has better mdf. I'm planning on 3 full sheets and have them rip them into half long ways. I will do all the other cuts so I don't have to handle a 4x8 sheet, lol.

I also thought about using a RCA to xlr cable vs the adaptor.
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post #5 of 73 Old 08-13-2014, 07:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluer101 View Post
Thanks guys,

With so many different build threads I'm confused on the wiring. Between one or 2 cubes, D2 vs D4, vs 3000dsp and 6000dsp it's crazy.

Will I be running the iNuke in bridged mode or in stereo?

Also I went to HD and Lowes last night and it seems like HD has better mdf. I'm planning on 3 full sheets and have them rip them into half long ways. I will do all the other cuts so I don't have to handle a 4x8 sheet, lol.

I also thought about using a RCA to xlr cable vs the adaptor.
I am in a similar situation as you. I do have my SI 18 D4 already and my box is complete besides for making it look pretty!

The wiring has been the hardest part so far. I am only going to be running 1 martycube. From what people have told me I am going to run my 3000dsp in bridged mode and setup my driver for 8ohm. I will then run the positive to the +1 on the speakon and the negative wire to +2.

Hope this helps. If not I am sure someone on this forum will be able to as they have been great so far
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post #6 of 73 Old 08-13-2014, 01:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluer101 View Post
Thanks guys,

With so many different build threads I'm confused on the wiring. Between one or 2 cubes, D2 vs D4, vs 3000dsp and 6000dsp it's crazy.

Will I be running the iNuke in bridged mode or in stereo?

Also I went to HD and Lowes last night and it seems like HD has better mdf. I'm planning on 3 full sheets and have them rip them into half long ways. I will do all the other cuts so I don't have to handle a 4x8 sheet, lol.

I also thought about using a RCA to xlr cable vs the adaptor.
You will want to run in bridged mode, follow LTD02's instructions here to set up 3000dsp for a HPF below 20hz:
How to extend the high pass filter below 20hz in DCX2496

I ordered 2 of these http://www.parts-express.com/neutrik...mount--092-054for the back of each box.

2 of these http://www.parts-express.com/neutrik...or-4p--092-192to connect to the above connector. Chose the angled version because I wanted to be able to place my boxes as close to the wall as possible.

2 of these http://www.parts-express.com/neutrik...or-4p--092-190 to connect other end of speaker wire to 3000dsp.

This speaker wire https://www.parts-express.com/wired-...00-ft--100-025 depending on your distance from amp to subs you may not need 100ft. But don't forget the approximately 10 ft just for within the boxes(VC to VC and from VC to connector at the back of the box)


These http://www.homedepot.com/p/Tyco-Elec...2-10/202204296I picked up from HD to attach speaker wire from VC to speakon box connector. Others have ordered the 50 pack from PE but I knew I would not need that many. It takes a quick pinch on the spade part with needle nose pliers and it fits tight.

I bought an XLR adapter and RCA cable, but if you want to just order a RCA/XLR cable it will work the same.

When wiring speakon connectors for bridge mode, wire positive to +1 and negative to +2.





Sent from my HTCONE using Tapatalk 4
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post #7 of 73 Old 08-13-2014, 08:39 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quickett View Post
You will want to run in bridged mode, follow LTD02's instructions here to set up 3000dsp for a HPF below 20hz:
How to extend the high pass filter below 20hz in DCX2496

I ordered 2 of these http://www.parts-express.com/neutrik...mount--092-054for the back of each box.

2 of these http://www.parts-express.com/neutrik...or-4p--092-192to connect to the above connector. Chose the angled version because I wanted to be able to place my boxes as close to the wall as possible.

2 of these http://www.parts-express.com/neutrik...or-4p--092-190 to connect other end of speaker wire to 3000dsp.

This speaker wire https://www.parts-express.com/wired-...00-ft--100-025 depending on your distance from amp to subs you may not need 100ft. But don't forget the approximately 10 ft just for within the boxes(VC to VC and from VC to connector at the back of the box)


These http://www.homedepot.com/p/Tyco-Elec...2-10/202204296I picked up from HD to attach speaker wire from VC to speakon box connector. Others have ordered the 50 pack from PE but I knew I would not need that many. It takes a quick pinch on the spade part with needle nose pliers and it fits tight.

I bought an XLR adapter and RCA cable, but if you want to just order a RCA/XLR cable it will work the same.

When wiring speakon connectors for bridge mode, wire positive to +1 and negative to +2.





Sent from my HTCONE using Tapatalk 4

So one speaker is hooked to channel A at 2 ohms and the other is hooked to channel B at 2 ohms? Then when you say positive to +1 and negative to +2 that is per channel. So channel A will have 2 of the 4 posts on the speakon plug used and the same goes for Channel B.

Then the woofer in the box wired per 2 ohm load diagram above and positive and negative from the speaker to the speakon plate follow the same +1 and +2 connection.

See I'm so used to car audio with positive right channel and negative left channel for bridged operation.

I might draw a diagram to make sure from speaker all the way to amp.
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post #8 of 73 Old 08-13-2014, 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by bluer101 View Post
So one speaker is hooked to channel A at 2 ohms and the other is hooked to channel B at 2 ohms? Then when you say positive to +1 and negative to +2 that is per channel. So channel A will have 2 of the 4 posts on the speakon plug used and the same goes for Channel B.

Then the woofer in the box wired per 2 ohm load diagram above and positive and negative from the speaker to the speakon plate follow the same +1 and +2 connection.

See I'm so used to car audio with positive right channel and negative left channel for bridged operation.

I might draw a diagram to make sure from speaker all the way to amp.
Here is d4 sub


If you give amount/type of subs,amp, then people will get you on right track.
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post #9 of 73 Old 08-13-2014, 09:34 PM
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Yes, the diagram I included is per speaker. You will have 2 speaker wires within each box. And each box to a channel on the inuke.
1 wire within to connect the positive and negative VC together. The other wire to connect the VC to the speakon connector. All speakon connectors to the +1 &+2. You will only be using those 2 connections on the speakon, the other 2 remain unused.

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post #10 of 73 Old 08-14-2014, 06:33 AM - Thread Starter
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Here is d4 sub


If you give amount/type of subs,amp, then people will get you on right track.
So now they are wired at 8 ohms and not 2 ohms???

The subs are 2 SI 18 D4 in separate cubes. Then the one iNuke 3000dsp, all in my first post.
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post #11 of 73 Old 08-14-2014, 08:07 AM
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So one speaker is hooked to channel A at 2 ohms and the other is hooked to channel B at 2 ohms? Then when you say positive to +1 and negative to +2 that is per channel. So channel A will have 2 of the 4 posts on the speakon plug used and the same goes for Channel B.

Then the woofer in the box wired per 2 ohm load diagram above and positive and negative from the speaker to the speakon plate follow the same +1 and +2 connection.
Looking at the amp, it looks like if you bridge it then you use +1 and +2 and only use channel A I think it shows. If you are using both channels, then as per the amp markings, you use +1 and -1. I hooked up my speakons according to that diagram on the back.

If you have 2 D4's, run each set voicecoils in Parallel to create a 2 ohm load on each channel.
+ to + and - to - on each voice coil. And then take a + and - from each sub to the speakon on the box ( + to +1 and - to -1). Then run to the speakons to the amp and they will be 2 ohms each channel to my understanding and how I was planning on running them.

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post #12 of 73 Old 08-14-2014, 08:29 AM - Thread Starter
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Looking at the amp, it looks like if you bridge it then you use +1 and +2 and only use channel A I think it shows. If you are using both channels, then as per the amp markings, you use +1 and -1. I hooked up my speakons according to that diagram on the back.

If you have 2 D4's, run each set voicecoils in Parallel to create a 2 ohm load on each channel.
+ to + and - to - on each voice coil. And then take a + and - from each sub to the speakon on the box ( + to +1 and - to -1). Then run to the speakons to the amp and they will be 2 ohms each channel to my understanding and how I was planning on running them.

That's how I thought it would be ran.

Now looking at the 3000's specs when running 2 channel stereo for 2 cubes at 2 ohms each channel is says 1520 watts.

Then if you run one cube you would hook it up at 8 ohms for bridged at 1520 watts.

This is all dependent on using the D4 sub as it can be wired for 8 or 2 ohms. This also has me thinking because everyone keeps saying real wattage numbers is 1100 watts. Does this sound right?

I know how to wire regular amps, speakers, dual and single voice coils but the pro amp has me lost, lol.

I'm trying to figure this out ahead of time so I can build my wires and everything before the subs arrive.

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post #13 of 73 Old 08-14-2014, 08:45 AM
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That's how I thought it would be ran.

Now looking at the 3000's specs when running 2 channel stereo for 2 cubes at 2 ohms each channel is says 1520 watts.

Then if you run one cube you would hook it up at 8 ohms for bridged at 1520 watts.

This is all dependent on using the D4 sub as it can be wired for 8 or 2 ohms. This also has me thinking because everyone keeps saying real wattage numbers is 1100 watts. Does this sound right?

I know how to wire regular amps, speakers, dual and single voice coils but the pro amp has me lost, lol.

I'm trying to figure this out ahead of time so I can build my wires and everything before the subs arrive.

Not sure what your asking here.
You want to run 2ohms as less impedance = more power (Assuming the amps and subs can handle it of course)

So bridged is the output it will have at one channel and stereo is output at 2 channels. Looks like you have the power when you double the impedance from the chart you posted.

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post #14 of 73 Old 08-14-2014, 10:06 AM - Thread Starter
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Not sure what your asking here.
You want to run 2ohms as less impedance = more power (Assuming the amps and subs can handle it of course)

So bridged is the output it will have at one channel and stereo is output at 2 channels. Looks like you have the power when you double the impedance from the chart you posted.
What I was explaining is I'm suppose to wire each sub for 2 ohms. Then run each sub separate one to channel A and one to channel B. That way the iNuke will run 2 ohm load at 1520 watts per channel.

The problem I read here and other threads is some saying bridging the amp. I don't know but I think that would be running one D4 sub vs 2 D4 subs. So you would run the one sub wired for 8 ohms for the iNuke to be bridged at 1520 watts that way.

Because if I run 2 D4's at 2 ohms bridged it says wattage would be 3000 watts, wouldn't that be too much?

I just think that with so many threads between one D4 , 2 D4's, one D2 and 2 D2's there are many possibilities. Also you hear about getting full advantage if the iNuke 3000 at 1100 watts.

Sorry for all this but maybe we can create a thread with all the different scenarios.
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post #15 of 73 Old 08-14-2014, 10:13 AM
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I thought you had 2 D4's? If you do, run it in stereo and each channel at 2 ohms.
Not sure where bridging and 8 ohms is coming from. If you have two, no reason to bridge IMHO. If each channel will do 1500 watts, I do not see a benefit to bridging since that is already 3x the "rated power handling" anyway.

if you have one, than that is a different scenario, but even still running a single channel at 2ohms is still plenty over doing a bridged mode at 8ohms. I could be wrong on that one, but if you have two, I would go with the above.
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post #16 of 73 Old 08-14-2014, 10:20 AM
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Pm ltd02 , get the correct answer and post back here. I get confused as well and want to know for sure.
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post #17 of 73 Old 08-14-2014, 10:49 AM - Thread Starter
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I thought you had 2 D4's? If you do, run it in stereo and each channel at 2 ohms.
Not sure where bridging and 8 ohms is coming from. If you have two, no reason to bridge IMHO. If each channel will do 1500 watts, I do not see a benefit to bridging since that is already 3x the "rated power handling" anyway.

if you have one, than that is a different scenario, but even still running a single channel at 2ohms is still plenty over doing a bridged mode at 8ohms. I could be wrong on that one, but if you have two, I would go with the above.

Yes I have 2 D4's on order from the next batch.

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Pm ltd02 , get the correct answer and post back here. I get confused as well and want to know for sure.
Thanks, that sounds good as there is so much info out there. But what PM performance says is what I thought it was.

I'm just getting excited to have more bass. It should out perform my 3 12's.
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post #18 of 73 Old 08-14-2014, 12:17 PM
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Yes I have 2 D4's on order from the next batch.



Thanks, that sounds good as there is so much info out there. But what PM performance says is what I thought it was.

I'm just getting excited to have more bass. It should out perform my 3 12's.
I did alot of research. Im pretty sure I got this one right from looking at the documentation from Neutrick and Behringer. If someone says otherwise, i will keep an eye since I just wired mine up last night.

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post #19 of 73 Old 08-14-2014, 12:44 PM - Thread Starter
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I did alot of research. Im pretty sure I got this one right from looking at the documentation from Neutrick and Behringer. If someone says otherwise, i will keep an eye since I just wired mine up last night.
I'm pretty sure too. I'm reading this thread where most of all this Marty stuff started.

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post #20 of 73 Old 08-14-2014, 03:18 PM
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What I was explaining is I'm suppose to wire each sub for 2 ohms. Then run each sub separate one to channel A and one to channel B. That way the iNuke will run 2 ohm load at 1520 watts per channel.

The problem I read here and other threads is some saying bridging the amp. I don't know but I think that would be running one D4 sub vs 2 D4 subs. So you would run the one sub wired for 8 ohms for the iNuke to be bridged at 1520 watts that way.

Because if I run 2 D4's at 2 ohms bridged it says wattage would be 3000 watts, wouldn't that be too much?

I just think that with so many threads between one D4 , 2 D4's, one D2 and 2 D2's there are many possibilities. Also you hear about getting full advantage if the iNuke 3000 at 1100 watts.

Sorry for all this but maybe we can create a thread with all the different scenarios.

If you parallel the two voice coils together (+ to + and - to -) on each speaker, that equals a 2 ohm load. You can run each one directly to it's own channel (again amp + to speaker + and amp - to speaker -) and the amp will make it's maximum power. 2 ohms per channel.

OR, if for some reason you wanted to bridge the amp (not necessary) you would keep each speakers pair of voice coils paralleled together and then you would series the speakers to each other (+ of the amp to the + of the first speaker, - of the amp to the second speaker, then connect the - of the first speaker to the + of the second speaker). When you series speakers together, the impedance goes up. In this case, it would be 2 ohms x 2 speakers = 4 ohms. When you bridge the amp, it uses both channels combined, so the impedance is shared with both channels. Since your series wiring gives you a 4 ohm load, you divide that by two channels and each channel sees a 2 ohm load and your 3000 watts / 2 channels = 1500 watts per channel. The same amount as a simple parallel wiring would.

Both wiring schematics will provide the same exact power, but bridging the amp isn't as simple for most people and there is nothing to gain from it, so just wire them parallel with one speaker to each channel.

Hope this helps.
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post #21 of 73 Old 08-14-2014, 03:43 PM - Thread Starter
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If you parallel the two voice coils together (+ to + and - to -) on each speaker, that equals a 2 ohm load. You can run each one directly to it's own channel (again amp + to speaker + and amp - to speaker -) and the amp will make it's maximum power. 2 ohms per channel.

OR, if for some reason you wanted to bridge the amp (not necessary) you would keep each speakers pair of voice coils paralleled together and then you would series the speakers to each other (+ of the amp to the + of the first speaker, - of the amp to the second speaker, then connect the - of the first speaker to the + of the second speaker). When you series speakers together, the impedance goes up. In this case, it would be 2 ohms x 2 speakers = 4 ohms. When you bridge the amp, it uses both channels combined, so the impedance is shared with both channels. Since your series wiring gives you a 4 ohm load, you divide that by two channels and each channel sees a 2 ohm load and your 3000 watts / 2 channels = 1500 watts per channel. The same amount as a simple parallel wiring would.

Both wiring schematics will provide the same exact power, but bridging the amp isn't as simple for most people and there is nothing to gain from it, so just wire them parallel with one speaker to each channel.

Hope this helps.

Yep, thank you as that what I was finding while reading older threads.

Now time to order some parts.

Do you guys think it's better to build my own speakon cables with 12 gauge and speakon ends or buy them already built? I still have inwall 12 gauge 2 wire from mono price from making my lcr speakers.
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post #22 of 73 Old 08-14-2014, 04:12 PM
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Do you guys think it's better to build my own speakon cables with 12 gauge and speakon ends or buy them already built? I still have inwall 12 gauge 2 wire from mono price from making my lcr speakers.
The Speakons are available with connections that screw on, so that no soldering is necessary. Here's a video that shows how to assemble them.

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post #23 of 73 Old 08-14-2014, 04:58 PM
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They are pretty easy to put together once you see how they go.
I want to say they are expensive if you need longer runs. I got a 100ft spool of 12awg for like $30 and the connectors for like $3 a piece and made my own. Premade at 25ft were like $30 a piece I think
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post #24 of 73 Old 08-14-2014, 05:00 PM
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ummm... let's all remember that Behringer 'overstates' the wattage, for the iNukes, by almost 30%... their 3000 watts is more like 2200.

It's for 'wall hung dude', and no, I don't need any help to 'hook-up'.... sheesh ... dirty minds around these parts....
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post #25 of 73 Old 08-14-2014, 07:13 PM
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ummm... let's all remember that Behringer 'overstates' the wattage, for the iNukes, by almost 30%... their 3000 watts is more like 2200.
Not really relevant to how to wire properly.
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Right, think that with so many threads between one D4 , 2 D4's, one D2 and 2 D2's there are many possibilities. Also you hear about getting full advantage if the iNuke 3000 at 1100 watts.[IMG]http://*******/pQ9tzh[/IMG]
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post #27 of 73 Old 08-14-2014, 11:43 PM
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what makes it all so very confusing is that a PAIR of D4 drivers can be wired and run off the inuke 3000 TWO WAYS that both produce the same real power to the drivers. forget the behringer product sheet. those numbers are not accurate.


the way that I would suggest is to wire each DRIVER in PARALLEL. that will give 2 ohms per DRIVER.


then, hook ONE DRIVER to each channel on the inuke.


that will give you about 1000 watts per driver.


on the speakon, 1+ is the positive (red) and 1- is the negative (black). the left and the right channel are both done the same way.


the picture in post #6 shows how to wire the driver in parallel. essentially all the reds get wired together. and then all the blacks get wired together.


2+ and 2- are NOT USED in either case.


make sure the bridged selector is NOT IN BRIDGED MODE or you will get no sound. this IS NOT BRIDGED MODE.


also a separate input will be needed from the avr into each channel on the inuke. use a splitter if your avr only has one sub output.
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post #28 of 73 Old 08-15-2014, 05:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post

also a separate input will be needed from the avr into each channel on the inuke. use a splitter if your avr only has one sub output.
when I asked about this the other day dorm one stated a splitter was not necessary and you could set it to stereo within the software without the extra input?
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post #29 of 73 Old 08-15-2014, 06:16 AM
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Take a look at post #118 to #121 in this thread:

Someone hold my hand
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post #30 of 73 Old 08-15-2014, 06:28 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post
what makes it all so very confusing is that a PAIR of D4 drivers can be wired and run off the inuke 3000 TWO WAYS that both produce the same real power to the drivers. forget the behringer product sheet. those numbers are not accurate.


the way that I would suggest is to wire each DRIVER in PARALLEL. that will give 2 ohms per DRIVER.


then, hook ONE DRIVER to each channel on the inuke.


that will give you about 1000 watts per driver.


on the speakon, 1+ is the positive (red) and 1- is the negative (black). the left and the right channel are both done the same way.


the picture in post #6 shows how to wire the driver in parallel. essentially all the reds get wired together. and then all the blacks get wired together.


2+ and 2- are NOT USED in either case.


make sure the bridged selector is NOT IN BRIDGED MODE or you will get no sound. this IS NOT BRIDGED MODE.


also a separate input will be needed from the avr into each channel on the inuke. use a splitter if your avr only has one sub output.
You are the man.

This is perfect and reaffirms what I was thinking. This will also give me independent control over input gain per sub.

I'm going to buy if available a RCA to XLR splitter.

I'm sure it won't be the last answer from you.

I have been reading many threads to get the most info. Building, speaker wiring, and all that is no issue. I guess it's the pro amp that is foreign to most if us.
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