MartySub FAQ - Page 132 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #3931 of 4214 Old 02-11-2017, 10:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VicTorious1 View Post
My original post was a rhetorical question (which is a question asked in order to make a point rather than to get an answer). I've seen new posters ask questions about slightly changing the dimensions of a Marty and some people find the need to tell them, "it's not a Marty then." No one cares. Glad you're the Marty historian. We've been missing that. And just FYI, the phrase is "couldn't care less." Now back to listening to my 3-way Marty speakers.
Well, thanks for straightening that out. I'll try to provide only info that everyone likes in future posts. Thanks also for the grammar check. It drives me crazy when I use the vernacular instead of proper English, irregardless of the medium.

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post #3932 of 4214 Old 02-11-2017, 12:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Samps View Post
Nice cab. Any chance you can get a frequency sweep?
Thank You...

Sorry I can't provide a frequency sweep. I leave in a apartment (2nd floor) and just about 1/4 of the volume, the floor is rattling already.

I am happy that the cab came out good. I have Home Depot cut the sheets, and they're not even. Some cut is 24" and some
are 23-7/8". So I have to sand-down the 24" panels.
It took me a couple of weeks to finished this project. Because I have to wait for the neighbors to leave, then start my power tools.
I've done my sanding and routing in the dining room, sometimes in the bathroom or in the patio. My work bench is my dining table.
Saw dust is everywhere

Most important thing is... I'm happy with the result.
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post #3933 of 4214 Old 02-11-2017, 01:07 PM
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How important is the foam padding for the inside of the sub ?

I ask because i had some foam leftover from my other marty and i dont have enough to put any on the top piece.

I have the sides and bottom fully covered and then bits and pieces covering a large portion of the baffle and back.

Will this be okay or should i get more ?
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post #3934 of 4214 Old 02-12-2017, 05:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alexis007 View Post
Thank You...

Sorry I can't provide a frequency sweep. I leave in a apartment (2nd floor) and just about 1/4 of the volume, the floor is rattling already.

I am happy that the cab came out good. I have Home Depot cut the sheets, and they're not even. Some cut is 24" and some
are 23-7/8". So I have to sand-down the 24" panels.
It took me a couple of weeks to finished this project. Because I have to wait for the neighbors to leave, then start my power tools.
I've done my sanding and routing in the dining room, sometimes in the bathroom or in the patio. My work bench is my dining table.
Saw dust is everywhere

Most important thing is... I'm happy with the result.
If you have to wait for your neighbors to leave before you can use your power tools, is that also the case when you're enjoying your sound system?
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post #3935 of 4214 Old 02-12-2017, 07:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dchabby View Post
How important is the foam padding for the inside of the sub ?

I ask because i had some foam leftover from my other marty and i dont have enough to put any on the top piece.

I have the sides and bottom fully covered and then bits and pieces covering a large portion of the baffle and back.

Will this be okay or should i get more ?
The padding is for breaking up some reflections. You should be OK and
it should not make a big difference. If needed, pull the driver later and add some more if you don't want to buy additional foam padding now.
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post #3936 of 4214 Old 02-12-2017, 07:36 AM
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Alright finally got my Full Martys with UXL-18s built! Total noob and made a ton of mistakes. Took me way longer than it should have. I've been running them with a -2.8db limiter and don't even listen near reference (watched John Wick at -10 last night with subs 4db hot) and it's still a SCARY amount of bass.
I did demo U571 at reference and holy ****, I was a little worried about hearing loss to be honest.
My room is fairly small but I'm still kind of thinking I could get a bit better of a FR with a third sub at the back... haven't had a whole lot of time to play with REW yet since I still have more treatments to finish and put up.

Totally worth it, these things absolutely destroy the dual PB-1000s I had in here before.
Another funny thing is how under powered my buttkicker seemed after putting these in, at my listening position I get a ton of tactile response from them, I turned my BK up quite a bit after I put these in.
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post #3937 of 4214 Old 02-12-2017, 07:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by systemlayers View Post
Alright finally got my Full Martys with UXL-18s built! Total noob and made a ton of mistakes. Took me way longer than it should have. I've been running them with a -2.8db limiter and don't even listen near reference (watched John Wick at -10 last night with subs 4db hot) and it's still a SCARY amount of bass.
I did demo U571 at reference and holy ****, I was a little worried about hearing loss to be honest.
My room is fairly small but I'm still kind of thinking I could get a bit better of a FR with a third sub at the back... haven't had a whole lot of time to play with REW yet since I still have more treatments to finish and put up.

Totally worth it, these things absolutely destroy the dual PB-1000s I had in here before.
Another funny thing is how under powered my buttkicker seemed after putting these in, at my listening position I get a ton of tactile response from them, I turned my BK up quite a bit after I put these in.
I love a happy ending. Lots of mistakes happen along the way to everyone. All that matters is cracking that 1st beer when you get to finally sit down and enjoy your work! Congrats.
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post #3938 of 4214 Old 02-12-2017, 08:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by derrickdj1 View Post
The padding is for breaking up some reflections. You should be OK and
it should not make a big difference. If needed, pull the driver later and add some more if you don't want to buy additional foam padding now.

Thanks derrickdj - this is what I have so far and the top wont have any at all.





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post #3939 of 4214 Old 02-12-2017, 10:43 AM
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I have some old interlocking floor mats that I used when I had a home gym, I think they are some kind of rubber or foam.


Can I use a piece of this on the top ? Would that be better than nothing ?
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post #3940 of 4214 Old 02-12-2017, 11:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dchabby View Post
I have some old interlocking floor mats that I used when I had a home gym, I think they are some kind of rubber or foam.
Can I use a piece of this on the top ? Would that be better than nothing ?
Don't bother. It is likely closed cell which will just take up volume and the benefit of lining a sub-box is marginal at best.
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post #3941 of 4214 Old 02-12-2017, 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by DavidK442 View Post
Don't bother. It is likely closed cell which will just take up volume and the benefit of lining a sub-box is marginal at best.

ok thank you !
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post #3942 of 4214 Old 02-12-2017, 11:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dark Matter View Post
If you have to wait for your neighbors to leave before you can use your power tools, is that also the case when you're enjoying your sound system?
Yes it is. But once in a while even my neighbors are here, I still listen to it but in a very low volume.
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post #3943 of 4214 Old 02-12-2017, 05:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Alexis007 View Post
Yes it is. But once in a while even my neighbors are here, I still listen to it but in a very low volume.
Thoughtful man!.. We all do what we have to do.
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post #3944 of 4214 Old 02-12-2017, 05:57 PM
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post #3945 of 4214 Old 02-12-2017, 09:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corradizo View Post
Could just put a pillow in the middle to break up any internal reflections. http://www.data-bass.com/data?page=content&id=79
I had forgotten about that article at d-bass. Stuffing does make a difference. I stand corrected, though chopping 5 db port output to smooth response an octave above cut-off would be an individual decision.

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post #3946 of 4214 Old 02-13-2017, 06:04 AM
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Since my understanding of WinIsd Pro is very limited would anyone chime in on what would be better in a closed room 17'2"x16'4"x7'4", 2 HS-24's in there own 9ft^3 sealed boxes or 2 UM-18's in mini-Marty's. 90% movies/TV and 10%music.


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post #3947 of 4214 Old 02-13-2017, 07:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Purenv View Post
Since my understanding of WinIsd Pro is very limited would anyone chime in on what would be better in a closed room 17'2"x16'4"x7'4", 2 HS-24's in there own 9ft^3 sealed boxes or 2 UM-18's in mini-Marty's. 90% movies/TV and 10%music.


sub placement and seating location will probably be the biggest change contributing factors.
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post #3948 of 4214 Old 02-13-2017, 08:12 AM
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Seating will be a U shaped sectional 132" wide with 4 seating positions all 9' from front wall. Or would it be better to just put the UM-18's in 4ft^3 sealed enclosures? I just thinking that with a room roughly 2050ft^3 would I get much help in the low frequencies with room gain? Too much with ported or not enough with sealed enclosures?


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post #3949 of 4214 Old 02-13-2017, 08:16 AM
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Also sub locations I was thinking about were 1 on front wall somewhere and 1 right behind the sectional.


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post #3950 of 4214 Old 02-13-2017, 10:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Purenv View Post
Seating will be a U shaped sectional 132" wide with 4 seating positions all 9' from front wall. Or would it be better to just put the UM-18's in 4ft^3 sealed enclosures? I just thinking that with a room roughly 2050ft^3 would I get much help in the low frequencies with room gain? Too much with ported or not enough with sealed enclosures?


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2 24" drivers are about 90% of the surface area of 4 18s.

How much bass do you want ?

We can not decide this for you.

Dr.Floyd Toole sub woofer tests have shown that generally for a 2 sub setup, opposing mid walls worked very well for large seating area bass distribution as long as seating was not in the 25% distance from room boundaries.

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post #3951 of 4214 Old 02-13-2017, 01:11 PM
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Thank you Shadowed for trying to help me. Right now I have a Paradigm ported 12" subwoofer running 400watts RMS. So either choice would be a massive improvement. I would like enough bass to have that tactile feeling in your chest as well as hit HT frequencies below 20hz.
The seating is 9ft from front wall and the outer two seats would be about 4ft from the outside walls.


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post #3952 of 4214 Old 02-13-2017, 08:26 PM
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Anyone tried the Dayton UM-18 in the "Johhny" sub size and had good results? I was going to go with a mini-marry but once wife realized how big it is I'm getting some push-back to see if there is something smaller (going in our living room, wouldn't be a concern if I had a theatre but not possible in my current house).
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post #3953 of 4214 Old 02-15-2017, 07:24 AM
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would someone care to check my math. i am looking at making a 2 x 2 1/2 x 3' box = 15cf . but when i do measurements in the space compared to a full marty, it seems the FM is larger. perhaps itss just my eyes, idk.

and, if my math is correct, would adding a few cf to a FM be worth it ?

also. has anyone put rounds ports in a FM ? (this thread is just SO LARGE , searching could take days)

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post #3954 of 4214 Old 02-15-2017, 07:55 AM
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would someone care to check my math. i am looking at making a 2 x 2 1/2 x 3' box = 15cf . but when i do measurements in the space compared to a full marty, it seems the FM is larger. perhaps its just my eyes, idk.

and, if my math is correct, would adding a few cf to a FM be worth it ?

also. has anyone put rounds ports in a FM ? (this thread is just SO LARGE , searching could take days)
If that's outside dimensions, you'll need to subtract off wood thickness and the port. Also, the bracing, and driver will fill up some of the volume. You'll probably be close to the size of a full marty. Just my quick guess.
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post #3955 of 4214 Old 02-15-2017, 11:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by systemlayers View Post
Alright finally got my Full Martys with UXL-18s built! Total noob and made a ton of mistakes. Took me way longer than it should have. I've been running them with a -2.8db limiter and don't even listen near reference (watched John Wick at -10 last night with subs 4db hot) and it's still a SCARY amount of bass.
I did demo U571 at reference and holy ****, I was a little worried about hearing loss to be honest.
My room is fairly small but I'm still kind of thinking I could get a bit better of a FR with a third sub at the back... haven't had a whole lot of time to play with REW yet since I still have more treatments to finish and put up.

Totally worth it, these things absolutely destroy the dual PB-1000s I had in here before.
Another funny thing is how under powered my buttkicker seemed after putting these in, at my listening position I get a ton of tactile response from them, I turned my BK up quite a bit after I put these in.

congratulations. that is quite a combo.


as for freq resp, depending on your room, sometimes shifting the subs or the listening position around a bit can get you out of a hole. on the other hand, nothing wrong with more subs... :-)

Listen. It's All Good.
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post #3956 of 4214 Old 02-15-2017, 12:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iconrl View Post
If that's outside dimensions, you'll need to subtract off wood thickness and the port. Also, the bracing, and driver will fill up some of the volume. You'll probably be close to the size of a full marty. Just my quick guess.
the driver is about .40cf. prt/s, idk, 1cf+ ? for box wood, just eyeballing it, that doesn't matter. its probably just me. with other mods it should be around 12cf.

anyway. i have 3 3/4 mdf sheets now and 1 18" ultimax should be here tomorrow. i am doing 2 with a 6000dsp.

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post #3957 of 4214 Old 02-16-2017, 12:27 PM
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I am going to receive 2 DVC HST 18s tomorrow night. I will be running A14k (4400 w per channel 4 ohm) amp in 2 channel configuration. The amp's power output will be limited by dedicated 20A circuit. Since I want ported enclosure, Nick advised that I don't build a ginat enclosure such as Full Marty. He recommeds somewhere around 6cu ft internal volume. So, Marty cube is the closest. Can someone tell me if I am going to miss anything by not building a larger box? I have 30" behind AT screen and height is not an issue.
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post #3958 of 4214 Old 02-16-2017, 01:13 PM
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I am going to receive 2 DVC HST 18s tomorrow night. I will be running A14k (4400 w per channel 4 ohm) amp in 2 channel configuration. The amp's power output will be limited by dedicated 20A circuit. Since I want ported enclosure, Nick advised that I don't build a ginat enclosure such as Full Marty. He recommeds somewhere around 6cu ft internal volume. So, Marty cube is the closest. Can someone tell me if I am going to miss anything by not building a larger box? I have 30" behind AT screen and height is not an issue.
Are you building from scratch or buying a flat pack? The HST parameters work best in smaller boxes. As you get to a bigger and bigger box, the response gets a little peaky around the low-20 Hz range. However, that is assuming a ~18.5 Hz tune. In a marty cube with 18.5 Hz tune and published HST parameters, you get a F3 of ~20 Hz. If you went with something like the Johnny Sub (modified Marty, fits between cube and mini in size), it's at ~7.5 cu ft, and you could modify the port to get a tune of ~17 Hz. With 7.5 cu ft tuned to 17 Hz, you get a pretty flat response with F3 of ~17.3 Hz. But to do that you'd have to basically design your own box, and/or get help from the guru LTD02. If you're looking for the simplest option, the marty cube (or the flat pack from DIYSG) should work very well for the HST18 based on the modelling in WinISD.

FWIW I'm in a very similar build, my original driver order fell through (long story) and I just ordered a HST18. My box will be ~5.6 cu ft tuned to ~17.5 Hz, and the HST18 models very well in that. I'll be running mine with a FP14k clone also. One sub for now, another later in the year after I save up some money for another HST.
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post #3959 of 4214 Old 02-16-2017, 01:22 PM
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Originally Posted by bpgunning View Post
Are you building from scratch or buying a flat pack? The HST parameters work best in smaller boxes. As you get to a bigger and bigger box, the response gets a little peaky around the low-20 Hz range. However, that is assuming a ~18.5 Hz tune. In a marty cube with 18.5 Hz tune and published HST parameters, you get a F3 of ~20 Hz. If you went with something like the Johnny Sub (modified Marty, fits between cube and mini in size), it's at ~7.5 cu ft, and you could modify the port to get a tune of ~17 Hz. With 7.5 cu ft tuned to 17 Hz, you get a pretty flat response with F3 of ~17.3 Hz. But to do that you'd have to basically design your own box, and/or get help from the guru LTD02. If you're looking for the simplest option, the marty cube (or the flat pack from DIYSG) should work very well for the HST18 based on the modelling in WinISD.

FWIW I'm in a very similar build, my original driver order fell through (long story) and I just ordered a HST18. My box will be ~5.6 cu ft tuned to ~17.5 Hz, and the HST18 models very well in that. I'll be running mine with a FP14k clone also. One sub for now, another later in the year after I save up some money for another HST.
Thanks BP. I will probably build it. I did contact Eric this morning to see if he has the Stonehenge flat pack available. When it comes to Winisd, I am clueless. So, when you say tune it to XX hz, modify the port etc. , I have no idea how to do all of that. Basically my goal is to build the best ported box for these driver and amp combo. The room is dedicated and it is used to watch movies only.

I will also check out the Johnny Sub you mentioned.
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post #3960 of 4214 Old 02-17-2017, 11:02 AM
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It doesn't matter, BUT you don't need to split it at all, and can save a few bucks.. You can go direct to input A and use Bi-Amp mode. Just don't engage the crossover.


Sorry to quote an old post but i finally have my 2nd sub finished (almost a year to date since i finished the 1st one) and just want to confirm what i need to do to the amp to be able to run the second sub.

So instead of using an rca splitter and running separate inputs into channel a and b, you can just use channel a and set the amp into bi-amp mode ? And then make sure that the crossover is turned off ?

I was just looking at the manual online and it lists 2 bi-amp modes, does it matter which one is used ?
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