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post #61 of 4099 Old 08-19-2014, 09:40 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mystigiandoll View Post
Samps can you show me the info where the light MDF is weaker? I didn't see that info in the discussion I saw about it, most were thinking it was indeed the same strength. I did put blocks behind my screw points regardless on all 4 of them.
The ultralight mdf will not hold a screw as well as regular. It isn't as dense. With proper bracing the ultralight works great. I have not noticed a sound or measurement difference between ultralight and regular. Built 6 of my own cabs and jbrowns two monsters used it as well.

I use ultralight cuz its much nicer to work with. Only downside is screwing into it.
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post #62 of 4099 Old 08-19-2014, 09:42 AM
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As a Noobie, I would like to ask that if anyone has any photos of the speakon receptacles that you installed on the back of your Marty, could they please post them? Im curious
about the different locations that people have used. Also, does the speakon connector "click in" or is it a quarter turn type thing into the female receptacle on the Marty?

thanks AGAIN,
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post #63 of 4099 Old 08-19-2014, 09:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbrown15 View Post
You can't use two SI 18D4's on a single channel as a 4ohm load, you'd have to run them in series as a 8ohm load. If you run them parallel that would be a 2ohm load and the iNuke 6000 isn't 2ohm stable.


You could power two SI 18D2's per channel of an iNuke 6000 in series as a 4ohm load though.
Two D4's gives either a 1ohm, 4 ohm or 16 ohm load. Two D2's gives either 0.5 ohm, 2 ohm, or 8 ohm. The D means dual, so you can use four D4's on an inuke 6000 for dual 4 ohm loads, and it will give you maximum power out of the amp and optimum power for the driver.
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post #64 of 4099 Old 08-19-2014, 10:02 AM
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Sorry I thought the D4's were the 4ohm versions of the SI 18. Crazy of me to assume D4 meant 4ohm and D2 meant 2ohm versions....lol
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post #65 of 4099 Old 08-19-2014, 10:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbrown15 View Post
You can't use two SI 18D4's on a single channel as a 4ohm load, you'd have to run them in series as a 8ohm load. If you run them parallel that would be a 2ohm load and the iNuke 6000 isn't 2ohm stable.


You could power two SI 18D2's per channel of an iNuke 6000 in series as a 4ohm load though.
??? SI Drivers are DVC ,... So if im not mistaken a D4 Coils wired in (parallel, 2ohm) or in ( series, 8ohm),
... so wire each (Driver Coils) in Series for 8ohm then wire both Subwoofers in PARALLEL on 1 channel for a total load of 4ohm per channel !!
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post #66 of 4099 Old 08-19-2014, 10:06 AM
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Yeah we just talked about that....lol I forgot that they were dual voice coils.
I was thinking that the D4 was just a 4ohm version and the D2 was a 2ohm version.

Last edited by jbrown15; 08-19-2014 at 10:16 AM.
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post #67 of 4099 Old 08-19-2014, 10:07 AM
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I had a scrap piece of both regular mdf and the lightweight stuff. I tested a coarse thread spax wood screw into both of them. In the regular mdf the screw tightened up very tight and I wasn't able to strip out the wood until I used alot of effort. In the lightweight mdf the screw stripped out with very little effort. The lightweight mdf also appeared to be fluffy and broken up when I tested inserting the screw without stripping it, and then removing it. When I looked at the hole that was left, it did not look like the threads in the hole were intact at all. In the regular mdf the hole remained intact and would likely allow another install into that same hole.

The strength of the wood to resist flexing and breaking in half I can't really comment on. My experience was only with its ability to accept a fastener.


PS. I do like the lightweight mdf. You just need to be aware of its compromises. Being able to lift the box myself is nice.
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Last edited by Samps; 08-19-2014 at 10:11 AM.
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post #68 of 4099 Old 08-19-2014, 10:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbrown15 View Post
Sorry I thought the D4's were the 4ohm versions of the SI 18. Crazy of me to assume D4 meant 4ohm and D2 meant 2ohm versions....lol
Na, I thought that too for months haha
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post #69 of 4099 Old 08-19-2014, 10:16 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Samps View Post
I had a scrap piece of both regular mdf and the lightweight stuff. I tested a coarse thread spax wood screw into both of them. In the regular mdf the screw tightened up very tight and I wasn't able to strip out the wood until I used alot of effort. In the lightweight mdf the screw stripped out with very little effort. The lightweight mdf also appeared to be fluffy and broken up when I tested inserting the screw without stripping it, and then removing it. When I looked at the hole that was left, it did not look like the threads in the hole were intact at all. In the regular mdf the hole remained intact and would likely allow another install into that same hole.

The strength of the wood to resist flexing and breaking in half I can't really comment on. My experience was only with its ability to accept a fastener.


PS. I do like the lightweight mdf. You just need to be aware of its compromises. Being able to lift the box myself is nice.
yup like you said. with regular mdf you can cheat a little with bracing but superlight you cant. Both are good.
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post #70 of 4099 Old 08-19-2014, 10:17 AM - Thread Starter
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THanks John for your great posts earlier. I am incorparating the info as I go.
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post #71 of 4099 Old 08-19-2014, 10:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bassment View Post
Na, I thought that too for months haha
I'm going to attempt to run my four UXL-18 drivers off of a single Peavey IPR2 7500 instead of running them off of two iNuke 6000's.
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post #72 of 4099 Old 08-19-2014, 10:24 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Samps View Post
Here's some pics of my down firing martycube that Donny made for me.
Looks fantastic !!

Last edited by chalugadp; 08-19-2014 at 10:33 AM.
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post #73 of 4099 Old 08-19-2014, 11:07 AM
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Chaluga, can you add to the main page info about, when running 2 subs off 3000 dsl either using y-cable or which settings on the inuke are appropriate when just using 1 input.
Have read this thread multiple times and I still am unsure whether I can use 1 input and still set a hpf for each sub independently?

iNUKE 3000 DSP setup question

Hopefully one of the resident guru's will be able to provide the pertinent information.
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post #74 of 4099 Old 08-19-2014, 11:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Samps View Post
I had a scrap piece of both regular mdf and the lightweight stuff. I tested a coarse thread spax wood screw into both of them. In the regular mdf the screw tightened up very tight and I wasn't able to strip out the wood until I used alot of effort. In the lightweight mdf the screw stripped out with very little effort. The lightweight mdf also appeared to be fluffy and broken up when I tested inserting the screw without stripping it, and then removing it. When I looked at the hole that was left, it did not look like the threads in the hole were intact at all. In the regular mdf the hole remained intact and would likely allow another install into that same hole.

The strength of the wood to resist flexing and breaking in half I can't really comment on. My experience was only with its ability to accept a fastener.


PS. I do like the lightweight mdf. You just need to be aware of its compromises. Being able to lift the box myself is nice.
Nice, thanks for the info, I honestly hadn't came across any tests with it so that is good to know! I was planning on using 1-1/4 or 1-1/2 #10 wood screws. Driver is recessed but I did fasten blocks behind all the mounting points.
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post #75 of 4099 Old 08-19-2014, 11:40 AM - Thread Starter
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I tested the superlight mdf thoroughly with my own subs before I started using it for flatpacks if you are building a couple of subs yourself than use regular mdf
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post #76 of 4099 Old 08-19-2014, 02:20 PM - Thread Starter
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Good news . I have had a 60hz ground loop hum inflamed by my parasound amp. I had my cable regrounded but it didn't work. I had all plugs on same powerbar and still there. I used a cheater plug for far too long and its gone. The inukes never created the hum , only my parasound amp.

I finally bought one of the ground loop isolators from ebay and it worked.

I will put this in post 2 somewhere.
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post #77 of 4099 Old 08-19-2014, 03:52 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtprkr View Post
As a Noobie, I would like to ask that if anyone has any photos of the speakon receptacles that you installed on the back of your Marty, could they please post them? Im curious
about the different locations that people have used. Also, does the speakon connector "click in" or is it a quarter turn type thing into the female receptacle on the Marty?

thanks AGAIN,
dtprkr
It turns , clicks , which locks it in place.
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post #78 of 4099 Old 08-19-2014, 04:25 PM
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I was looking to build another martycube with an 18" sub. My current configuration is a martycube with an IXL 18" sub. Since the IXL needs roughly 10 cubic ft , and the martycube is about 4.75, am I losing a lot of output? What exactly happens when you don't give a sub the recommended enclosure space?

Also, I have been looking between the IXL, UXL and the SI. The UXL gives about 3-4 db more....in real world listening, is that noticeable? Couldn't I just turn the gains up a bit on the SI to match the output, since its not like I really run the subs or amp that hard in the first place?
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post #79 of 4099 Old 08-19-2014, 04:39 PM
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q: Is the Inuke6000 also good for 4 SI18D4 , 2 per channel @ 4ohm load ?


a: yes. and there are a couple of different ways to wire them. suggested wiring is each driver in SERIES for 8 ohms, then 2 drivers in parallel for 4 ohms net per channel.


that will pull a mighty 4400 watts or so from the amp (well, at least in some theory), 1100 watts per driver.


inuke 6000dsp/4X si18d4/4X marty sub enclosures...may be the reigning bang for the buck output champion setup.


what may be confusing here is that the nomenclature of D4 means DUAL 4 ohm voice coils, so the driver can be wired in parallel for 2 ohms or in series for 8 ohms.
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post #80 of 4099 Old 08-19-2014, 05:10 PM
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q: I want to connect two subs in parallel to my amplifier. I have one speakon from each sub and there is only one hole in my amp for the channel, wtf do I do?


a: make or buy a parallel Y speakon wire:


How to Make a Y-Splitter Speakon

Listen. It's All Good.
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post #81 of 4099 Old 08-20-2014, 06:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tgeorge34 View Post
I was looking to build another martycube with an 18" sub. My current configuration is a martycube with an IXL 18" sub. Since the IXL needs roughly 10 cubic ft , and the martycube is about 4.75, am I losing a lot of output? What exactly happens when you don't give a sub the recommended enclosure space?

Also, I have been looking between the IXL, UXL and the SI. The UXL gives about 3-4 db more....in real world listening, is that noticeable? Couldn't I just turn the gains up a bit on the SI to match the output, since its not like I really run the subs or amp that hard in the first place?
You lose output in a 4.75 cf box with pretty much any 18" driver. They all perform better in 11 cf. There's a graph on the first page I posted showing the difference between the boxes with an SI. The UXL is noticeably better, but if you're not listening loud than it doesn't matter. You can't just turn the gains up a bit if you're at the max output, and also it increases the distortion.

My philosophy is if you can have 1-4 subs go with UXL's, and if you can have 5+ go with SI. Canada is same price for IXL and SI, in the US the SI is cheaper so I'd get SI over IXL I think. But all of this is pointless if you don't listen fairly loud, any 18" is overkill for moderate listening volumes haha.
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post #82 of 4099 Old 08-20-2014, 08:26 AM
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chalugadp,

Is your MDF 3/4" thick? Thanks!
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post #83 of 4099 Old 08-20-2014, 08:32 AM - Thread Starter
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chalugadp,

Is your MDF 3/4" thick? Thanks!
You mean for the cutlist ? Yes.I will add that.
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post #84 of 4099 Old 08-20-2014, 08:35 AM
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After reading Post 81 that 18" is in it's Min box size at 4.75cuft ,...I saw a graph at HTS, comparing the SI 15" & 18" both in 5cuft, ...15" had a little more Output between 20-32Hz ,.. Wonder if that is correct
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post #85 of 4099 Old 08-20-2014, 10:25 AM
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Hello everybody! First of all, very nice thread!
One question, is it important to look how high the group delay is? I want to build a small minimarty, about 220l (7.7ft3) with a 15'' ultimax. After adding a high pass filter the groupdelay is about 55ms.
Is this something to keep in mind or is it not noticable?



Thanks in advance!
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post #86 of 4099 Old 08-20-2014, 10:38 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by randyc1 View Post
After reading Post 81 that 18" is in it's Min box size at 4.75cuft ,...I saw a graph at HTS, comparing the SI 15" & 18" both in 5cuft, ...15" had a little more Output between 20-32Hz ,.. Wonder if that is correct
Don't think so
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post #87 of 4099 Old 08-20-2014, 03:20 PM - Thread Starter
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Can I get someone to answer question 9 in post two ? I don't know a lot about the difference in types and slopes. Just post below and I can copy it in.

Thanks
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post #88 of 4099 Old 08-21-2014, 10:07 AM
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Question - On your Subwoofer Video Build thread you have the the cut list for the vertical mini marty and it has a 29.5" port back and 17 Hz tune whereas on the cut list here for the vertical mini marty you have 23.5" port back and 18 Hz tune. Is that the correct tune for the longer port?
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post #89 of 4099 Old 08-21-2014, 10:55 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mystigiandoll View Post
Question - On your Subwoofer Video Build thread you have the the cut list for the vertical mini marty and it has a 29.5" port back and 17 Hz tune whereas on the cut list here for the vertical mini marty you have 23.5" port back and 18 Hz tune. Is that the correct tune for the longer port?
The 29.5" back is a tune around 16.5 hz.
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post #90 of 4099 Old 08-21-2014, 10:59 AM
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good deal, thanks chalug!
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