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post #211 of 463 Old 08-31-2014, 07:18 PM - Thread Starter
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The tuning will be 1.5hz lower. Around 16.5hz. No effect that you will notice.
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post #212 of 463 Old 09-01-2014, 02:31 PM
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I have decided to build two full Marty's. I currently have two 4cf sealed boxes stacked on each side of my mains. The same height as a full Marty.

If one is going to use Duratex, other than weight, is there any advantage to Baltic Burch plywood vs MDF? I'm not concerned about weight. Either way it will be heavy, so I'll be using a dolly to move them around.

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Originally Posted by sslv2pwned View Post
If I build the full Marty's first, do you think I will be able to figure out how to build a 16" deep Marty?
I also wanted to bump the above question. My goal is to build two 18" subs for behind my couch. A depth of 16 - 17" and 24" tall would be ideal. I can make 30" tall work. The wall is 14' wide so I can go as wide as necessary.

Obviously these are near field subs. They will be against the back wall and firing directly into the couch. Based on the experience of others, these subs won't be running as hot as the front. I'm really hoping this will be a better setup than my current 4 sealed.

Does this setup sound like a good plan? Anything in my plan sound like a bad idea? (I.E.. sub positions exciting room modes)




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post #213 of 463 Old 09-01-2014, 03:20 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sslv2pwned View Post
I have decided to build two full Marty's. I currently have two 4cf sealed boxes stacked on each side of my mains. The same height as a full Marty.

If one is going to use Duratex, other than weight, is there any advantage to Baltic Burch plywood vs MDF? I'm not concerned about weight. Either way it will be heavy, so I'll be using a dolly to move them around.



I also wanted to bump the above question. My goal is to build two 18" subs for behind my couch. A depth of 16 - 17" and 24" tall would be ideal. I can make 30" tall work. The wall is 14' wide so I can go as wide as necessary.

Obviously these are near field subs. They will be against the back wall and firing directly into the couch. Based on the experience of others, these subs won't be running as hot as the front. I'm really hoping this will be a better setup than my current 4 sealed.

Does this setup sound like a good plan? Anything in my plan sound like a bad idea? (I.E.. sub positions exciting room modes)




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Baltic birch is easier to work with and can screw in driver easier. Mdf is a lot cheaper and needs more cleanup with dust and need plywood blocks behind driver to screw in if recessed mounted.
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post #214 of 463 Old 09-02-2014, 02:47 PM
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I need to place an order for some router bits...

What size round over bit do you use when building a Marty?

What size flush cut bit?
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post #215 of 463 Old 09-02-2014, 04:16 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sslv2pwned View Post
I need to place an order for some router bits...

What size round over bit do you use when building a Marty?

What size flush cut bit?
I like to have 1/4" and 3/8" for roundovers and 1.25" for flush.
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post #216 of 463 Old 09-02-2014, 06:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post
I like to have 1/4" and 3/8" for roundovers and 1.25" for flush.
Yep, I used 1/4 for the driver baffle, 3/8 for all other edges after flush trim. Worked like a champ.
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post #217 of 463 Old 09-02-2014, 06:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lemonslush View Post
Do these look OK for inuke settings for a full marty?

I just noticed you have filter one type as "HS12" instead of "PEQ" like the others. Is that intentional? I'm not familiar with that type of filter, and have all mine set to PEQ.

Just an observation

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post #218 of 463 Old 09-03-2014, 06:48 AM
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its the setting LD20 suggested on the thread for getting the amp to go below 20hz. For my martycubes I use the PEQ
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post #219 of 463 Old 09-03-2014, 07:40 AM
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When wiring the dual voice coils do you just leave the wire dangling or do some zip tie somewhere?
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post #220 of 463 Old 09-03-2014, 09:31 AM
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I used 12awg wire and cut it to a length that fit snug around the circumference of the speaker. I thought about zip ties but those sometimes get brittle and break after a few years.
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post #221 of 463 Old 09-03-2014, 10:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Samps View Post
I used 12awg wire and cut it to a length that fit snug around the circumference of the speaker. I thought about zip ties but those sometimes get brittle and break after a few years.
Between the basket and magnet right? What about those little vents for the voice coil?

I was test fitting last night with this method and running the wire through the backside of the spring binding post. Then I guess connect the wire to the speaker to one side of the speaker posts.
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post #222 of 463 Old 09-03-2014, 10:28 AM
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The wire blocked the vent holes when i made it real tight, so i went a little longer on the wire so it ballooned out a bit to clear a path for the vents. I did wire in through the back of the spring posts. Mine is wired in series, so i just used a single strand of wire wrapped around the speaker, connecting one of the negatives to the other sides positive. Then I just split the speaker wire from the terminal on the box so the positive and negative Y'd out to connect to the remaining open positive and negative spring posts.
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post #223 of 463 Old 09-03-2014, 11:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Samps View Post
The wire blocked the vent holes when i made it real tight, so i went a little longer on the wire so it ballooned out a bit to clear a path for the vents. I did wire in through the back of the spring posts. Mine is wired in series, so i just used a single strand of wire wrapped around the speaker, connecting one of the negatives to the other sides positive. Then I just split the speaker wire from the terminal on the box so the positive and negative Y'd out to connect to the remaining open positive and negative spring posts.
Thanks.

I'm using 2 d4's for 2 ohm load stereo.

So mine will be parallel.

I'm going to put the driver in one of my cabs tonight that is finished.
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post #224 of 463 Old 09-03-2014, 11:55 AM
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I built my micro this weekend. I plan to stick to a single 15" for a while (broke). I haven't seen anyone mention the 1000DSP. Will the 1000 power the Dayton 15 well enough or do i need to man up and get the 3000?
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post #225 of 463 Old 09-03-2014, 12:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by memfis View Post
I built my micro this weekend. I plan to stick to a single 15" for a while (broke). I haven't seen anyone mention the 1000DSP. Will the 1000 power the Dayton 15 well enough or do i need to man up and get the 3000?
Need to man up
You can send it up to 1500 watts(as long as your not running it 10dbs over reference ) which is double the power. The 1000 will be clipping more as well ifyour trying to push it.
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post #226 of 463 Old 09-03-2014, 12:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post
Need to man up
You can send it up to 1500 watts(as long as your not running it 10dbs over reference ) which is double the power. The 1000 will be clipping more as well ifyour trying to push it.
3000 it is. Thanks!
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post #227 of 463 Old 09-03-2014, 12:40 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by memfis View Post
3000 it is. Thanks!
Unlike the bigger martysubs the micro doesn't have as much headroom. I'm running 3 and can hit reference well. Going to add a johnnysub when I can afford it to just have a little more
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post #228 of 463 Old 09-03-2014, 11:25 PM
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So I thought I'd post this here incase anyone was looking at doing something similar. I recently decided that I wanted to switch out my two iNuke 6000DSP amps over to a single Peavey IPR2 7500, but I didn't really feel like rewiring everything and my UXL-18 drivers are single VC 4ohm loads. So I wanted to wire two drivers in parallel as a 2ohm and run them from one channel of the amp, that way I could run two subs per channel allowing me to run all four from the amp.
I didn't really feel like hacking up cables so I talked with LTD02 (John) and he suggested these really nice speakon splitter boxes from Amazon. They easily allow you two run two drivers or subs parallel, you run one speakon cable out from the amp into the box and then two speakon cables out to the subs. They run for $35 and appear to be really nice quality.





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post #229 of 463 Old 09-04-2014, 04:57 AM
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Quote:
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So I thought I'd post this here incase anyone was looking at doing something similar. I recently decided that I wanted to switch out my two iNuke 6000DSP amps over to a single Peavey IPR2 7500,
I am curious, what is your reason for switching amps? I am thinking of Building subs, and using the iNuke 6000DSP, but seeing this makes me wonder if I should be looking at other amps.
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post #230 of 463 Old 09-04-2014, 08:37 AM
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I am curious, what is your reason for switching amps? I am thinking of Building subs, and using the iNuke 6000DSP, but seeing this makes me wonder if I should be looking at other amps.
I have insane amounts of output from my subs and I can't even get three of the lights from the iNuke 6000's going so clearly I'm not using anywhere near the full amount of power that they put out. So I wanted to try out the Peavey IPR2 7500, just one of them should be able to power all four of my subs. So I'm going from two amps to one, I only sold one of my iNukes though so if the Peavey can't handle all four I'll add the other iNuke back into the mix.


The Peavey's are better amps but it's basically the same price as two iNuke 6000DSP's. I own a balanced miniDSP 2x4 so I'll be using that with the amp seeing that it doesn't have a built in DSP like the iNuke.
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post #231 of 463 Old 09-04-2014, 10:13 AM
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If someone has 4 subs located in different locations the dual inukes would let you eq each one independently. Just a thought for those with different arrangements.

But I do think the inuke is a bit "low budget".
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post #232 of 463 Old 09-04-2014, 10:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Samps View Post
If someone has 4 subs located in different locations the dual inukes would let you eq each one independently. Just a thought for those with different arrangements.

But I do think the inuke is a bit "low budget".

Same thing can be accomplished with a miniDSP 2x4.
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post #233 of 463 Old 09-04-2014, 11:01 AM
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I thought the IPR7500 was only a 2 channel amp? So you could only eq 2 subs or 2 groups of subs. With 2 inuke 6000s, 3000s, or 1000s, you could eq 4 separately.
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post #234 of 463 Old 09-04-2014, 11:14 AM - Thread Starter
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His arrangement is stacked so there are two groups. He's not eqing each one. With his on 1/4 points he doesn't need much eq.
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post #235 of 463 Old 09-06-2014, 11:51 AM
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Got my inuke today and all hooked up. I like the 2 cubes but maybe expected more. I know they might break in so we will see. I have the D4 setup running 2 ohm stereo. Running HP filter 20hz butter 12db.

On 1 peg im running HS12 20hz, I have tried -4db and 0db right now, does it matter with the cubes since they are tuned to 20hz?

Also my inuke front gains are 3pm and avr trim at 0 audessey off. At my reference (for me) is -15 -10 I get a few clip red lights during WOTW emerging pod scene. From the inuke software the output clips before the input on the meters. I mean when the output clips the input is one just below that. At the same time the red light on the inuke lites very little. Does this all sound ok to you?

Yes I still need to do a graph with my RS meter to see my response. Any pointers would be great.
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post #236 of 463 Old 09-06-2014, 12:01 PM - Thread Starter
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Get rid of hs12. Put a peq at 20hz with 2dbs,q of 2.
Try that and see.
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post #237 of 463 Old 09-06-2014, 12:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post
Get rid of hs12. Put a peq at 20hz with 2dbs,q of 2.
Try that and see.

Ok I got rid of hs12 and changed it to 20hz with 2dbs,q of 2. I did the HS12 per LTD with the lower than 20 hz trick, is that not good then?

At first I was using the front of the inuke but this software is better on the fly.
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post #238 of 463 Old 09-06-2014, 12:30 PM - Thread Starter
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The martycube tuning is 20hz. You set hpf at tuning. How big is your room ?
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post #239 of 463 Old 09-06-2014, 12:38 PM
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11.5 X 18.5 x 8ft ceiling

Then part of the back is open to a dining room,11x11 vaulted ceiling, one side open to front entry way and another living room.

I also have one of my older 12 inch subs still directly behind the seats which i turned off but now have it back on as it helps.

Will be doing a dedicated theater in a years or so.
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post #240 of 463 Old 09-06-2014, 12:56 PM - Thread Starter
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Two cubes in that space should be pretty good. Whats measuremnts show ?
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