So based on all of the great input so far I've put up this list of drivers which I'll research further.
Buying so many at the same time there are hopes for additional discount.
Buying used is not going to be beneficial unless I get all drivers used from one source as shipping individually to Norway will be expensive, but buying in bulk gives the option of one pallet by sea.
Amping will be by getting additional Sanway amps. Love the FP14k, but here a FP10kQ might be more flexible as one could do DSP with an additional miniDSP 4x10 on 8 woofers in pairs of two for example.
Also having crazy ideas about semi ported design, whereby you could remote operate hydraulic or air pressure controlled arms to open and close vents, LOL! With a controllable remote, you could push a button and all DSP config would change to optimized for ported, and the vents would open. Now
that would be MacGuyver!
Great advice, didn't know about basspig, but will read through it. I've added the drivers to the research list, but the apollo is not familiar to me, and searching for it only gives me random results such as travel agencies etc.
Also, I've got the impression that buying from AE require patience? What is to be expected? Sea freight is easily 6 weeks from the company in the US ships it to arrival here.
Thanks again, will be doing a lot of research into drivers and designs on this topic the coming weeks and post drawings and WinISD estimations etc here.
I'd recommend going with the highest sensitivity, highest power, cheapest woofer you can find for the 8 18's.
Thanks, all the drivers in the list above seems to meet the first two params, but cheap, idk. I don't want to end up buying 8 drivers, change my mind about build and having to replace them for a new application. It's scary as hell buying so many at the same time with so little experience.
We see that the JBL's in the list comes out to a total which would be at about the same cost as four additional LMS Ultras for a total of six(!) That put things into perspective for sure, but my reasoning is that for the absolute best lows, the Ultras should be xed over only work with the lows and other more suitable and efficient drivers should do the midbass. At least that has been my experience trying different settings with my current ultras vs JBL 2235h
When I get this monster build up, I might find I want more sub bass, and get two ultras in addition.
To be honest this is really not necessary. The system plays awesome today, but it's fun to build and play around. Gives meaning to life, hahaha.
They're very similar. Pretty sure the same motor and frame, but the cone is heavier and the suspension compliance is lower so Fs is about an octave lower. The 2226 has a few dB higher sensitivity and about 1/2mm less xmax than the 2035.
You could also look at the cheaper 2225. About 2/3 the xmax or the 2226 and 200W vs 600W of power handling, both of which are irrelevant as midbasses above 60Hz or so at home. I've had dozens of the 25 and 26 in my PA and at home and never damaged one (but I'm careful) and at home at ear blasting levels they don't move much in this application.
Wonderful, wonderful! I only got my first speakers a year from now, and have been obsessed ever since, hence the lack of knowledge. I liked the 4430 so much and 4343B came up, then 120Ti, then, then, then... LOL.
The 2225 seems more difficult to source than the 2226? I want the drivers to be flexible outside the scope of this project too, because I might want to use them for low end as well. Trying to keep options open so I don't have to buy 8 more drivers a year or two down the line, because something I haven't realized now suddenly dawns on me.
Will be doing tons of WinISD estimations, read subjective reviews + to see where the price/performance kicks in.
You guys are all great. Wish I was in the US and could visit some of you to check out your systems. Saw a home cinema road trip on youtube, where they visited popaloc's cinema and the SI24. Looked like a fantastic way to spend the day.