Did somebody ever tried new cabinets for commercial Polk Audio Speakers? - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 18 Old 08-25-2014, 03:24 PM - Thread Starter
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Question Did somebody ever tried new cabinets for commercial Polk Audio Speakers?

People when I first heard about DIY speakers a few months ago I felt pretty excited and at the same time overwhelmed about all the existing resources like software, online calculators, plans, drivers, forums and amazing pictures from existing projects. At first I had this really great deep feeling about doing my own project that I started to ask questions a lot in forums and started to read online documentation to please it. After all those answered questions and articles that I read online I started to realize that maybe I should leave my own design for after I'm more experienced. The amount of effort, knowledge and money required for my own project will be so tremendously big that simply it'll be too much for me right now.

However I have this great urge to use tools and cut wood that isn't leaving me alone right now and I think a lot about a lot of things to please the urge a little. One of the things that I started to think about is that the speakers I have sound good for the money but they don't look so great compared to more expensive ones and some DIY projects and that didn't leave me so pleased. I don't have the budget for new speakers right now so I started to think that since I already have a speaker system available maybe I should build some nice new tower cabinets for them instead than spending money in new speakers or a whole DIY project. That way I have like a middle point project, half DIY and half commercial. That way I don't have to spend money in new drivers and crossovers and I can please the urge to cut wood at the same time and get some nicer tower cabinets out of it. If something goes wrong, I can always put the drivers back in the old cabinets.

I need help for this because I don't have the drivers specs so I can calculate the size of the new cabinets. I was hoping that some members have that info or know where to get it. The speakers I have are the Polk Audio Monitor 40 Series II speakers. The Monitor 50 are the tower version of that speaker and their dimensions can be a starting point for my cabinets but I don't have the details about the internal shape and bracing so I don't know how to apply that dimensions to my own cabinets and I need help with that as well.

I really hope somebody can help me with this project.
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post #2 of 18 Old 08-26-2014, 08:24 AM
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you should look at diysoundgroup speakers, there wouldn't be much point to re-designing the commercial cabinets, probably wouldn't even notice a difference unless their cabinets are way too small originally.
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post #3 of 18 Old 08-26-2014, 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by BigLouis1971 View Post
I don't have the drivers specs so I can calculate the size of the new cabinets.
Chances are you won't be able to get them. Besides, if the cabs were properly designed they're already the correct size.

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post #4 of 18 Old 08-26-2014, 08:53 AM
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^^^^^This.

With two 5.25" mid-woofers and a dome tweeter, I'm not sure what you're looking to gain by trying them in a new cabinet. The MTM configuration would need to stay the same assuming that the crossover was designed specifically for that configuration.
To piggyback on what Bassment said, maybe you could sell your Monitor 40's for $50 to $70 and save for some DIYSoundgroup kits. Even upgrading to a pair of Fusion-6 speakers would be significant. You'd be able to run cleaner with much more output capability than the Polks are capable of. At $97 per kit, this would be a great step up. Good luck!
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post #5 of 18 Old 08-26-2014, 09:00 AM
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ehhh I'd look at building at least the fusion 8 or bigger. Not sure about the fusion 6 as I haven't heard them but I doubt they are a big upgrade, if an upgrade at all, over Polk monitor 40's. The fusion 6's are the same sensitivity, power handling and actually have less cone area. Polk's are MTM so that's an advantage at low-med freqs. Fusion 6 has a waveguide so they have an advantage up high in frequency.
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post #6 of 18 Old 08-26-2014, 09:14 AM
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ehhh I'd look at building at least the fusion 8 or bigger. Not sure about the fusion 6 as I haven't heard them but I doubt they are a big upgrade, if an upgrade at all, over Polk monitor 40's. The fusion 6's are the same sensitivity, power handling and actually have less cone area. Polk's are MTM so that's an advantage at low-med freqs. Fusion 6 has a waveguide so they have an advantage up high in frequency.
I agree that bigger would be better but if cost is the ultimate deciding factor, I still think the Fusion-6 would be an upgrade. The sensitivity difference of the Fusion-8 would be great for sure. You do have less surface area on the 6 but it's also a high quality FaitalPro woofer with inductance control paired with a compression driver. If nothing else, while running an 80Hz crossover, the Fusion would easily best the Polk in the upper ranges, IMO.
I went from a full Polk Monitor setup, 70's fronts, CS2 center, and 30's for surrounds to where I'm at now. Even the Volt-10's as temporary fronts obliterate the Monitor 70's in clarity, dynamics and volume capability.
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post #7 of 18 Old 08-26-2014, 09:20 AM
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The Volt-10's are in a whole 'nother league than Fusion-6's though. The Volt-10's are a significant upgrade in many areas (especially sensitivity).
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post #8 of 18 Old 08-26-2014, 09:30 AM
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What about building a sub to scratch your wood working itch? I suppose that would cost a bit more than the entry level DIYSoundGroup offerings, but could be done relatively cheap. inuke1000DSP and a $60 Alpine driver....or 2
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post #9 of 18 Old 08-26-2014, 09:57 AM - Thread Starter
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I get the picture. Is not worth it to make a new cabinet for my speakers. What about a DIY set of speaker stands to make them look like tower speakers? Can somebody point me to a project?

Hmmmmm, so basically a waveguide speaker will have better sound in the highs? From the waveguide speakers there I might be interested in the Fusion-4 Quad4 tower. How about that one vs Polk Audio Monitor 40?

I already plan to build a 8" sub with a cardboard cylinder enclosure for RE Audio REX8-v2 sub. I have a plan already for that using Bassbox PRO and online calculators. The cylinder will be about 46" tall X 12" wide for a total net volume of about 2.1 ft3. That's when I subtract bracing and port. The port will be about 4"x10" for a 19.62 Hz tune, F3 of 18.65 Hz. How does that sound?
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post #10 of 18 Old 08-26-2014, 09:58 AM - Thread Starter
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What about building a sub to scratch your wood working itch? I suppose that would cost a bit more than the entry level DIYSoundGroup offerings, but could be done relatively cheap. inuke1000DSP and a $60 Alpine driver....or 2
The Inuke have no RCA inputs or outputs, how do I solve that? What model number of Alpine driver should I pick?
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post #11 of 18 Old 08-26-2014, 10:07 AM
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you just get a male rca to male xlr cable, $5 from monoprice.

Are you limited to a certain width of speaker? The Fusion 4 tower is for people who have really narrow areas for a speaker. Can you fit the Fusion 8? I'd recommend starting with that.
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post #12 of 18 Old 08-26-2014, 10:33 AM - Thread Starter
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Listen to you, I started looking for advise to build some inexpensive speaker cabinets and I'll end up with advise for expensive speaker systems. I'll pick the pretty speakers stands that will make my Monitor 40s look like a more expensive tower. If that's ok with you I rather listen to advise to build that over the new speaker system advise. After all my speakers are just about 8 months old so I'm not thinking about new speakers but ways to make them look pretty. That should be a piece of cake to you.
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post #13 of 18 Old 08-26-2014, 10:36 AM - Thread Starter
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you just get a male rca to male xlr cable, $5 from monoprice.

Are you limited to a certain width of speaker? The Fusion 4 tower is for people who have really narrow areas for a speaker. Can you fit the Fusion 8? I'd recommend starting with that.
Is there a male xlr to female rca adapter or cable?
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post #14 of 18 Old 08-26-2014, 10:52 AM
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Is there a male xlr to female rca adapter or cable?
Yep. There's so many, there are probably adapters just looking for a pupose. Here are the ones I use.
https://www.parts-express.com/xlr-ma...apter--240-438

I understand your position about replacing what you just bought, that's why I thought you may entertain an ecomonical sub build. Who doesn't want more bass?
Sealed using pre-cut cabinets(you can build your own and cut cost and/or just build 1 and have room to add another if you choose):
Cheap and Easy - Dual sealed Infinity 1262w's using DIYsoundgroup flat packs
Ported, same guy just changing to ported cabinets:
another Infinity 1262w build

As for speaker stands, that's a fun project also. Your imagination is the limit. Search around a bit. I like to google an idea and look at all of the images when I'm trying to come up with a design to try for these types of projects.
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post #15 of 18 Old 08-26-2014, 11:17 AM - Thread Starter
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Yep. There's so many, there are probably adapters just looking for a pupose. Here are the ones I use.
https://www.parts-express.com/xlr-ma...apter--240-438

I understand your position about replacing what you just bought, that's why I thought you may entertain an ecomonical sub build. Who doesn't want more bass?
Sealed using pre-cut cabinets(you can build your own and cut cost and/or just build 1 and have room to add another if you choose):
Cheap and Easy - Dual sealed Infinity 1262w's using DIYsoundgroup flat packs
Ported, same guy just changing to ported cabinets:
another Infinity 1262w build

As for speaker stands, that's a fun project also. Your imagination is the limit. Search around a bit. I like to google an idea and look at all of the images when I'm trying to come up with a design to try for these types of projects.
This is not the first time I hear about the Infinity setup but I live in a apt and I rather pick a 8" sub because of the noise problem. What about the 8" version of that Infinity sub? I need 8" sub suggestions. I also picked the cardboard enclosure over the sealed MDF and have some of the materials already so I don't think I'll be changing my idea for now. Another thing is that those enclosures seem always to be out of stock.

The idea I have for now for the stands is something that will look like a tower but with a cut the size of the 40s so I can slide them from the back of the stand so it looks like is a whole tower speaker. Maybe I'll post a Sketchup model later.
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post #16 of 18 Old 08-26-2014, 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by BigLouis1971 View Post
Listen to you, I started looking for advise to build some inexpensive speaker cabinets and I'll end up with advise for expensive speaker systems. I'll pick the pretty speakers stands that will make my Monitor 40s look like a more expensive tower. If that's ok with you I rather listen to advise to build that over the new speaker system advise. After all my speakers are just about 8 months old so I'm not thinking about new speakers but ways to make them look pretty. That should be a piece of cake to you.
You said you might be interested in the Quad 4's. The Fusion 8's are 30 bucks more... not exactly expensive.
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post #17 of 18 Old 08-26-2014, 11:26 AM - Thread Starter
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You said you might be interested in the Quad 4's. The Fusion 8's are 30 bucks more... not exactly expensive.
They are for my budget. I'm the one who knows my budget. I already got Monitor 40s for about $120 a pair Newegg sale 8 months ago. They sound good for the price but are not that pretty. I'm looking for budget ways to make them pretty and have fun with the project at the same time to please my feeling to work with wood. I rather look for ways to make a stand look like a tower and slide them in because the expense is too fresh now being just 8 months old. Some of us make some sacrifices to get our speakers to let you know.
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post #18 of 18 Old 08-26-2014, 10:53 PM
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Originally Posted by BigLouis1971 View Post
I rather look for ways to make a stand look like a tower and slide them in because the expense is too fresh now being just 8 months old.
Slide them in? Keep in mind that you will need to keep the baffle width the same.
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