DIY Sub for behind HT Screens 17" deep w/ specs at 120dB @ 17.5Hz - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 67 Old 08-31-2014, 02:03 PM - Thread Starter
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DIY Sub for behind HT Screens 17" deep w/ specs at 120dB @ 15Hz

Going to build a sub that can fit behind an acoustically transparent screen which has the ports either above or below the screen to minimize screen vibration. @rlj5242 and @LTD02 turned me on to some neat programs that really help dial in the design and specs. I'm sure this is not the first time someone has built a sub to fit behind a screen with minimum depth and front porting above or below the screen a priority, but I couldn't locate any designs that fit my needs during my searches on this forum.

UPDATE - UPDATE - UPDATE

After all the suggestions, this is the sub I built. It's kinda of a cross between a Stonehenge and a Full Marty. Thanks to so many that post, share ideas and give suggestions. I hope this thread helps the next guy and gives ideas and confidence to anyone wanting to take on a DIY subwoofer project. From DIYsoundgroup.com's flat packs to custom designed subs, anything you set your mind to you can do.


Here's the specs on the sub (using a UXL-18)

~30" x 54" x 17.25" (18" with double front panel)

~3/4" MDF

~13.63 internal Cubic Feet (12.43 Cubic Feet with bracing)

~46.99" Port Length

~Tuned to 15Hz


Total cost so far is:

UXL 18 = $550 (yep, I didn't get in on the group buy)
3 Sheets of 3/4" MDF = $96
If you pay someone to route these = $90
TOTAL = $736 per sub (not including the weeks spent on AVS dreaming and researching the design)

The interior sound deadening was another $30.

Cut out and ready to go....


Rounding the edges...


Test fit everything before gluing. It lined up better then I could have imagined. I expected to have to make some cuts, but it all was perfect and fit great.


Painted the inside of the port openings...


Rounded off the corners of the port and put a point on the port brace. Not sure it was needed, but since it was easy to do I thought why not....


It was a little scary at this pint. No going back... the glue is on!


Painting the port first is a great idea. Seen others do it and it works good.


Port corner getting a round piece of trim....


We put the egg crate foam on the places that would be hard to reach once it's done. We'll add more once it's fully dry so all walls will be covered.


Me next to the sub.


Clamped up and drying for the night. Took about 5 hours to put together with a friend helping me. This was our first time building a sub so I'm sure the next one could go faster.


17.25" wide. I'm going to add a double front so it will be exactly 18" deep when finished.
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post #2 of 67 Old 08-31-2014, 02:15 PM
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What were your previous subs?

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post #3 of 67 Old 08-31-2014, 02:20 PM - Thread Starter
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Never had a theater room before and only seen one once on person when on vacation staying in a nice house in Tempe, AZ. Ever since I saw a HT in person I've wanted a theater room. So, from zero to these.

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What were your previous subs?
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post #4 of 67 Old 08-31-2014, 02:35 PM
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what are you putting in between the two stacked subs to give you the spacing in the sketch?
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post #5 of 67 Old 08-31-2014, 02:55 PM - Thread Starter
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It will be a framed racked to hold the speakers (plus they will be bracketed to the 2"x6" wall) and acoustic foam placed flush with the front of the speakers. The AT screen will be about 9" to 12" in front of the speakers. Your build gave me the inspiration and motivation to take this on! Yours turned out fantastic!

Do you think this will work?


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what are you putting in between the two stacked subs to give you the spacing in the sketch?
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post #6 of 67 Old 08-31-2014, 03:14 PM
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Are you limited to those other dimensions.48" Height and 30"width ?

This might be a good fit for multiple Infinity 1260's. They are only 7" tall
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post #7 of 67 Old 08-31-2014, 03:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C O D Y View Post
Never had a theater room before and only seen one once on person when on vacation staying in a nice house in Tempe, AZ. Ever since I saw a HT in person I've wanted a theater room. So, from zero to these.
I like your style. Zero to super-hero. 120dB at 17.5 for your first HT? What do you upgrade to after that??

Great choice of driver though. The port design should work fine, however with all those 180deg turns, it looks like a folded horn. Whether this will have any impact on the box's performance someone else more knowledgable will have to chime in on that one.

Nice project though.
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post #8 of 67 Old 08-31-2014, 03:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Anything is possible and these numbers are not set in stone. However, increasing the size does mean the port gets longer and I'm out of room in the box to add port length. Increasing the height by much more then an inch or two puts stacking them in jeopardy. Building one big double speaker is a nightmare trying to get it in the room after it's built. Also, I wanted to keep enough space between the speakers to build the rack they sit on so they are at the perfect ear height. So, yes I can change the height and width. But the 30"x48" is kinda the happy medium that gets decent ported cubes and still fit behind the screen.

Thinking about building 2 of these to see how they work since it's not a lot of money for a few sheets of MDF.

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Are you limited to those other dimensions.48" Height and 30"width ?
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post #9 of 67 Old 08-31-2014, 03:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C O D Y View Post
It will be a framed racked to hold the speakers (plus they will be bracketed to the 2"x6" wall) and acoustic foam placed flush with the front of the speakers. The AT screen will be about 9" to 12" in front of the speakers. Your build gave me the inspiration and motivation to take this on! Yours turned out fantastic!

Do you think this will work?

I don't see why it wouldn't work, have you thought about just moving the drivers up or down in the cabinet to get you the same placement without having to build this framed rack that you just mentioned?


What screen are you going to go with? I highly recommend one from Falcon screens!
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post #10 of 67 Old 08-31-2014, 03:40 PM - Thread Starter
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Driver placement is based on the port length. It's super easy for me to build a rack.

As for the screen, I was going to fabricate the frame myself and use Seymour fabric since they sell it for DIY guys by the foot. Do you know if Falcon sell just the fabric? I didn't see any option for fabric by the foot on their website.





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Originally Posted by jbrown15 View Post
I don't see why it wouldn't work, have you thought about just moving the drivers up or down in the cabinet to get you the same placement without having to build this framed rack that you just mentioned?


What screen are you going to go with? I highly recommend one from Falcon screens!
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post #11 of 67 Old 08-31-2014, 03:41 PM
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Quote:
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Never had a theater room before. From zero to these.
Your relationship with the homes around you are about to take a dive.
Have you considered structural reinforcement and soundproofing to keep your house in one piece (and wife some-what less-unhappy)?

Pics?
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post #12 of 67 Old 08-31-2014, 03:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C O D Y View Post
Driver placement is based on the port length. It's super easy for me to build a rack.

As for the screen, I was going to fabricate the frame myself and use Seymour fabric since they sell it for DIY guys by the foot. Do you know if Falcon sell just the fabric? I didn't see any option for fabric by the foot on their website.
Yes Rich sells just the material and I believe it's also a little cheaper in price. Send a pm to snickers1, that's Rich's user name and he'll give you a quote. Super good guy to deal with, I've mentioned this before in my build thread. But I went with the Falcon screen because I didn't like being able to see the screen weave from 9-10ft away with the XD material.
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post #13 of 67 Old 08-31-2014, 03:56 PM - Thread Starter
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Your comment makes me think this sub design might work! Last month I didn't know anything about subs and designs, but after spending time on this site I feel like I'm fitting in with you guys and now all I want to do is design and build speakers the rest of my life! lol I can see why so many people love this forum.

The theater is not in my home so I'm good there. It's going in my new shop. I spent the last 2.5 years after work, vacations and weekends building my 5,000 sf dream shop. It's a multipurpose building with a game room, workout room, showroom for my cars and hopefully a theater room. I over built it from top to bottom with a 6" slab and framing the studs 12" OC and doubling them up. There's only about 9" between the studs so I'm hoping it holds up well to the bass.







Quote:
Originally Posted by BassThatHz View Post
Your relationship with the homes around you are about to take a dive.
Have you considered structural reinforcement and soundproofing to keep your house in one piece (and wife some-what less-unhappy)?

Pics?
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post #14 of 67 Old 08-31-2014, 04:01 PM
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your depth situation made me curios so here is an idea....

6 Infinity 1262's wired into 6 Ohms 1600 watts. (a bridged iNuke 3000 DSP would be good.)

20 cft. tuned to 18Hz.

port is 3.25 x 26.5 straight out the top. no bend required

port velocity peaks at 16.5.

excursion stays under x max


Just thinking out loud

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post #15 of 67 Old 08-31-2014, 04:09 PM
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I once had the opportunity to experience a demonstration
of the raw power of the Cerwin-Vega "Earthquake'
Loudspeakers. Not the stuff they're making today but
the ones that were used in the movie theaters. One
speaker in a large room. A 1 meter high pedestal placed
about 3 meters out in front of the speaker. Upon the
pedestal was placed a lit candle. The demonstration was
a sub 10hz signal was sent to the speaker ( didn't need
much power, maybe 10W ). The candle was blown out.
You could feel the rush of air but not hear it.

You should try this when you get this thing built.
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post #16 of 67 Old 08-31-2014, 04:21 PM
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4 infinity's in 11 cft with 1200 watts would get you 113DB at 18Hz

port = 2 x 23

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post #17 of 67 Old 08-31-2014, 04:31 PM - Thread Starter
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You guys are giving me some good ideas. Got excited yesterday and ordered the UXL18's, so probably should try to work with those. But I like the idea of dual ports! That might make it so I don't have to do all the folded ports.... back to the design cave!
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post #18 of 67 Old 08-31-2014, 04:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C O D Y View Post



Woah, woah, woah...


Hold up Cody. Not to change the subject (which means of course I'm about to ) what are those privacy trees you have there? Are the taller trees (on the left and right side) different or just full grown compared to the shorter trees?

I've been thinking of putting in some kind of privacy hedges or trees to block out the neighbors and those look awesome and would work perfectly, especially the taller trees on the left and right.

So sorry for the OT... couldn't be helped...


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post #19 of 67 Old 08-31-2014, 04:41 PM
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Don't even second guess choosing the UXL-18 for a second, it is a bad A$$ driver. It's one of the top drivers on the market, do disrespect to anyone using the Infinity 1262's but unless I was getting them for free there's no way I'd take them over the UXL-18's.


I'm in love with your shops, please post a few pics of the cars that get to sleep inside of that beauty every night!....lol
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post #20 of 67 Old 08-31-2014, 04:43 PM
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Sorry Cody, what are the dimensions of your theater room?
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post #21 of 67 Old 08-31-2014, 05:03 PM - Thread Starter
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Funny you bring that up. More people ask about those trees then anything else when they see my house. I forget there there because they look so normal now.

They're arborvitae and they grow like a normal fir tree, except they stay narrow and tight branched. They are the BEST for placing around the yard. They grow here in the NW without any help. IF you live in a dry or hot area you would need to water them during hot months. The trick is to water them before they need it. If you wait for them to turn brown it's already to late and they'll die. Round here in the northwest (Portland / Seattle) Craigslist people have lots of them for sale. You can get them from 1' tall to 10'+ feet. The prices ranges from a few dollars for small ones to about $50 for 10' tall (about 300lbs). They grow about 12" a year around here. Plant them 24" apart on center (not the 36" people say) and water them good for the first few summers. The bigger you start with the more water you'll need to give them to get them started. The 10' tall ones will need water everyday if you plant them in the summer, but the 5' tall ones can be watered once a week (good deep soak) for the first year.

Once they are growing for a few years there's not much to do to them. I haven't watered or trimmed my tall ones (they're about 20' tall) in over ten years. If you need more help, give me your number in a PM and I'll give you a call. They are great privacy walls.

Couldn't find a recent photo of the front, but here's what it looks like with snow.







Quote:
Originally Posted by carp View Post
Woah, woah, woah...


Hold up Cody. Not to change the subject (which means of course I'm about to ) what are those privacy trees you have there? Are the taller trees (on the left and right side) different or just full grown compared to the shorter trees?

I've been thinking of putting in some kind of privacy hedges or trees to block out the neighbors and those look awesome and would work perfectly, especially the taller trees on the left and right.

So sorry for the OT... couldn't be helped...
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post #22 of 67 Old 08-31-2014, 05:14 PM - Thread Starter
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The room is about 17' wide x 30' deep with 9' ceilings.

The cars aren't in the new shop yet. Still finishing up the inside before they can all be in one location. Doing everything myself on this shop is taking what feels like forever, but about 6 more months and it will be worth it.


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Sorry Cody, what are the dimensions of your theater room?
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post #23 of 67 Old 08-31-2014, 05:18 PM
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Cody with a room that size I'm curious to know what you want to use as little space as possible behind your screen wall?
IMHO I wouldn't limit yourself because what if you want to change something down the road?
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post #24 of 67 Old 08-31-2014, 05:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Running some tests with the projector and image size it seems about 13' is the closest comfortable seating location to the screen. That leaves about 28" behind the screen max. With 17" deep JBL's and subs it leaves about 11" air gap between them and the screen.

The seating is framed in now (2 rows with a bar area in the back) so moving the screen further in the room at this point hurts the viewing of the front row seats. Being this is my first try at building a HT I'm sure it could be better, but like most people on here I'm trying to do it on a tiny budget and do as much as I can with my own hands.


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Cody with a room that size I'm curious to know what you want to use as little space as possible behind your screen wall?
IMHO I wouldn't limit yourself because what if you want to change something down the road?
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post #25 of 67 Old 08-31-2014, 06:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C O D Y View Post
Running some tests with the projector and image size it seems about 13' is the closest comfortable seating location to the screen. That leaves about 28" behind the screen max. With 17" deep JBL's and subs it leaves about 11" air gap between them and the screen.

The seating is framed in now (2 rows with a bar area in the back) so moving the screen further in the room at this point hurts the viewing of the front row seats. Being this is my first try at building a HT I'm sure it could be better, but like most people on here I'm trying to do it on a tiny budget and do as much as I can with my own hands.

Hey I hear you on the budget thing Cody, I build my entire room by myself!....lol
What projector are you considering and how big of a screen?


IMHO if I had a room that deep even with wanting to have two rooms of seats and a bar at the very minimum I'd have 24" between your front wall and the back of your false wall, 30" would even be better.
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post #26 of 67 Old 08-31-2014, 07:38 PM
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Some one more knowledgable on horns will have to chime in but I think all those bends in the port is going to be no bueno.

Two ports to the sides will work much better.

You could also port it out the side or out the top. Put the driver over to one side a little and then build the port around the other side. Exit it to the side or out the top.
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post #27 of 67 Old 08-31-2014, 07:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbrown15 View Post
Don't even second guess choosing the UXL-18 for a second, it is a bad A$$ driver. It's one of the top drivers on the market, do disrespect to anyone using the Infinity 1262's but unless I was getting them for free there's no way I'd take them over the UXL-18's.


I'm in love with your shops, please post a few pics of the cars that get to sleep inside of that beauty every night!....lol
No doubt!!!

Keep the UXL's. You can make them work. I was just throwing that out there.
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post #28 of 67 Old 08-31-2014, 07:45 PM
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Side porting would also keep from vibrating the screen. I also wonder about all the 90 degree turns in the port. A long port up the enclosure may be better performing.

Overall a great space...those JBL mains will be awesome and the UXL is a fine driver. Quality room in progress...wish it were mine.

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post #29 of 67 Old 08-31-2014, 08:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbrown15 View Post
Don't even second guess choosing the UXL-18 for a second, it is a bad A$$ driver. It's one of the top drivers on the market, do disrespect to anyone using the Infinity 1262's but unless I was getting them for free there's no way I'd take them over the UXL-18's.


I'm in love with your shops, please post a few pics of the cars that get to sleep inside of that beauty every night!....lol
Quote:
Originally Posted by NWCgrad View Post
Side porting would also keep from vibrating the screen. I also wonder about all the 90 degree turns in the port. A long port up the enclosure may be better performing.

Overall a great space...those JBL mains will be awesome and the UXL is a fine driver. Quality room in progress...wish it were mine.

Yep.

Front ports look good but they will be behind the screen anyway.

Basically take Jbrown15's build and change the dimensions to fit your space requirements.
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post #30 of 67 Old 08-31-2014, 08:18 PM - Thread Starter
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You guys have been spot on so far, so I'll scrap that design and go with something easier and more proven. Maybe I'll just keep it simple and do a side port and keep the area to the side open. Seems like an easy to build and solid design.

Last edited by C O D Y; 08-31-2014 at 08:29 PM.
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