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post #1 of 12 Old 09-04-2014, 10:56 AM - Thread Starter
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Suggestions for Sub

Hey everyone,

I've been lurking here for a few weeks. I recently took the next step in my a/v setup and picked up a Marantz NR1504 to go with my Klipsch RB-41 ii L/Rs. The 1504 has been a great improvement over my 2 channel AudioSource amp. The way I see it, my next steps will be a subwoofer and center channel (RC-42 ii).

I'm hoping for some suggestions on a subwoofer project to fit my needs. My listening area is pretty small, maybe 300 sq ft, and I live in an apartment complex. With that in mind, I'm looking for something to extend the bass from my bookshelves without being terribly obnoxious. My listening habits are pretty evenly split between music and movies, but I'm not terribly concerned about the super LFE for movies (I doubt I'd be able to enjoy them without angering the neighbors). Given the room layout and limited space, the sub would be against a wall, not in a corner.

I'm a novice when it comes to woodworking, however looking over the plans I see here, I think building a custom cabinet is within my capabilities. I'd like to stay under $200 (the cheaper the better), and I'd prefer to build a powered sub to avoid needing an external amp. Size isn't a huge concern.

What do you guys think? I appreciate any suggestions! Thanks!!!

Tom
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post #2 of 12 Old 09-04-2014, 11:31 AM
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Anarchy Tapped Horn from diysoundgroup http://www.diysoundgroup.com/ported-...narchy-th.html driver and small plate amp from PE...that would work as 1 suggestion
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post #3 of 12 Old 09-04-2014, 11:47 AM
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doc's is a good option and would be a lot easier than completely building your own.

$200 is pretty tight though. If you figure in $30 for a sheet of 3/4 MDF plus glue, screws and whatever else you'll need call it $40 at a bare minimum for the box. $160 for a sub and plate amp is going to be tough to do. Plate amps (so you have a built in, powered sub) are going to be more money than an external amp.

Here is a very inexpensive plate amplifier though.

http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-...ifier--300-802

And this subwoofer is one that has been used in a few builds I have seen on the forum.

http://www.amazon.com/Infinity-Refer.../dp/B0028AYIXK

These things and some wood would be right around your $200 budget.

This might be exactly what you're looking for.
Cheap and Easy - Dual sealed Infinity 1262w's using DIYsoundgroup flat packs

Last edited by DevonDeyholos; 09-04-2014 at 11:50 AM.
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post #4 of 12 Old 09-04-2014, 12:03 PM
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For an all in $200 budget that includes the box, driver, and amp you have 2 options.
1. Hit up Craiglist and see what you can get 2nd hand. I have bought and sold loads of gear of CL and have not been burned yet. I have been pleased with the condition of the items I have purchased, usually it is just folks looking to unload gear after the upgraded to something bigger. Plus if the product is junk nothing says you have to buy it.

2. Build from scratch, 1 or 2 of these 8" drivers in a 2 cubic foot vented enclosure could do the trick.
Drivers are $30 each plus shipping
http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-...oofer--295-484

A 100w plate amp for $90 plus shipping
http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-...ifier--300-802

A visit to Home Depot for a sheet of MDF is about $33 and they do have a panel saw they can use to cut the MDF.

I know you said you are in an apartment, this may be a nice way to round out the bottom end in your music without upsetting the neighbors too much.
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post #5 of 12 Old 09-04-2014, 03:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the suggestions!

Jake, I'm curious why you suggest a 2 cubic foot enclosure? The specs on PE say that driver would be best in a 0.95 cubic foot vented enclosure. I'm not saying you're wrong, just trying to understand.

Doc, I had come across that design and I think it would work for me! One thing I wasn't sure about is adding a plate amp to a tapped horn... will the amp change the volume of the horn significantly, thus requiring a re-design of the horn? Or is that change negligible?

I appreciate the feedback!
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post #6 of 12 Old 09-04-2014, 07:11 PM
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I am not sure how people are doing that...you could always build a small enclosure to put the amp in and set it behind the sub.
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post #7 of 12 Old 09-04-2014, 10:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by supertommy6 View Post
Thanks for the suggestions!

Jake, I'm curious why you suggest a 2 cubic foot enclosure? The specs on PE say that driver would be best in a 0.95 cubic foot vented enclosure. I'm not saying you're wrong, just trying to understand.

Doc, I had come across that design and I think it would work for me! One thing I wasn't sure about is adding a plate amp to a tapped horn... will the amp change the volume of the horn significantly, thus requiring a re-design of the horn? Or is that change negligible?

I appreciate the feedback!
2 drivers with bracing and accounting for the driver volume equals about 2 cubic feet.
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post #8 of 12 Old 09-05-2014, 12:32 AM - Thread Starter
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Well that makes perfect sense... thanks!
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post #9 of 12 Old 09-05-2014, 06:37 AM
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If you want to go with the infinity 1260 I would recommend giving each sub 3 cubic feet and tuned the box to 23hz. It will give you a much better response on the low end over a 1 cubic foot enclosure.
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post #10 of 12 Old 09-05-2014, 02:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doc5150 View Post
Anarchy Tapped Horn from diysoundgroup http://www.diysoundgroup.com/ported-...narchy-th.html driver and small plate amp from PE...that would work as 1 suggestion
x2
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post #11 of 12 Old 09-06-2014, 10:39 AM
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I used a Yung 300-6 w plate amp from parts express along with two Infinity Reference 1262 12 inch drivers in a dual opposed set up for around $225.

The external box dimensions were around 17" by 24" by 24"
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Last edited by Richard Cohen; 09-06-2014 at 10:44 AM.
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post #12 of 12 Old 09-06-2014, 10:46 AM
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Inside layout
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