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post #1 of 15 Old 10-28-2014, 11:57 AM - Thread Starter
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Speaker baffle

Hi DIYers,

Do you think that speaker baffle is one area where commercial manufacturers have an edge over DIYers ?
For example I see Mackie HR824 has zero edge baffle (http://www.mackie.com/products/hrmk2series/design.html) and many other speakers use sculpted baffle.

Can this be easily achieved by DIYer ?

Also is cuboid the best shape for cabinet or something else is better ?

Thanks!

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post #2 of 15 Old 10-28-2014, 01:02 PM
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The injection molded plastic enclosures are quite good for reduced diffraction and curved inside walls. This can be done DIY, but for kits and standardized designs, boxes make a lot of sense. Having a sculpted baffle isn't that important. It's more about the size of the round over.
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post #3 of 15 Old 10-28-2014, 01:10 PM
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Ive been surprised not to see more fiberglass used on diy projects here (or any HT set ups). You can make a cleaner/less edged box with it.
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post #4 of 15 Old 10-28-2014, 01:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boomassiv View Post
Ive been surprised not to see more fiberglass used on diy projects here (or any HT set ups). You can make a cleaner/less edged box with it.
Agree'd, but I think it's all about return on investment. Boxes work great and for the small sonic difference (if any) of fiberglass, it isn't worth the headache.

Glass gets used a ton in car audio as you have to get creative with a lot of installations, whereas HT is a lot more forgiving.

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post #5 of 15 Old 10-28-2014, 02:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bass addict View Post
Agree'd, but I think it's all about return on investment. Boxes work great and for the small sonic difference (if any) of fiberglass, it isn't worth the headache.

Glass gets used a ton in car audio as you have to get creative with a lot of installations, whereas HT is a lot more forgiving.
I've been wanting to do something new in 'glass lately. I was thinking a Volt10-Cone that I can mount on the wall in my shop al la Bose cubes or wakeboard speakers up high.

I don't DIY to save money or time though.
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post #6 of 15 Old 10-28-2014, 02:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tuxedocivic View Post
Having a sculpted baffle isn't that important.
+1. The Mackie ad copy claims about the benefits of that design are over the top, big time.
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Also is cuboid the best shape for cabinet
A cube is perhaps the worst shape, unless the interior of the cab isn't a cube. Google 'speaker cabinet golden ratio'. The only cabs where cubes don't cause problems are when the interior dimensions are too small compared to the wavelengths produced to support standing wave development, such as with subwoofers.
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post #7 of 15 Old 10-28-2014, 08:22 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Fitzmaurice View Post
A cube is perhaps the worst shape, unless the interior of the cab isn't a cube.
Well I meant rectangular cuboid and not a cube...

But good to hear, that sculpted baffles are not that important, and round overs should be good enough. Any minimum radius required for round overs ?

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post #8 of 15 Old 10-28-2014, 08:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Hifisound View Post
But good to hear, that sculpted baffles are not that important, and round overs should be good enough. Any minimum radius required for round overs ?
About a quarter wavelength, so less than a 1.5 inch radius on a cabinet corner isn't going to do much.

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post #9 of 15 Old 10-28-2014, 08:48 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Bill Fitzmaurice View Post
About a quarter wavelength, so less than a 1.5 inch radius on a cabinet corner isn't going to do much.
Thanks.
And would the baffle width, in relation to crossover, exclude the round over or the imaginary edge of the round over needs to be included in the width ?

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post #10 of 15 Old 10-29-2014, 07:35 AM
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The predicted baffle step frequency would be calculated as the flat portion of the baffle. The radiused edges would contribute somewhat to space loading, but not much. Not that it matters, as the baffle step calculation only serves as a starting point, where it comes to incorporating BSC into a crossover design you must measure the speaker response to be 100% accurate.

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post #11 of 15 Old 10-29-2014, 11:15 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks Bill

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Fitzmaurice View Post
where it comes to incorporating BSC into a crossover design you must measure the speaker response to be 100% accurate.
I was wondering if one can add roundovers to a ready DIY kit ( one without the cabinet) without impacting its crossover design..
In that case maybe better to add roundover beyond the suggested baffle width, right ?

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post #12 of 15 Old 10-29-2014, 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Hifisound View Post
I was wondering if one can add roundovers to a ready DIY kit ( one without the cabinet) without impacting its crossover design..
In that case maybe better to add roundover beyond the suggested baffle width, right
Id build the box and add an exterior roundover in the form of a semi-circle, then measure the results with and without to see if they were beneficial.

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post #13 of 15 Old 10-29-2014, 12:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Bill Fitzmaurice View Post
Id build the box and add an exterior roundover in the form of a semi-circle, then measure the results with and without to see if they were beneficial.
I didn't get this. You mean like a wooden beading, over the front baffle ?

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post #14 of 15 Old 10-29-2014, 01:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hifisound View Post
I didn't get this. You mean like a wooden beading, over the front baffle ?
A half-round on the leading edges of the sides, top and bottom. You don't want anything on the baffle.

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post #15 of 15 Old 10-29-2014, 11:52 PM - Thread Starter
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Will a fully curved baffle (of same width as flat one) be better ?
Maybe using solid wood for baffle and mdf for rest of the cabinet.
Though if a waveguide like SEOS is used, this can be done only for woofer part


Last edited by Hifisound; 10-30-2014 at 03:35 AM.
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