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post #31 of 57 Old 06-03-2015, 04:12 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Samps View Post
Looks good!

If you only need a quarter round section, the outside that gets flattened by the bucket really doesn't matter since that section will get cut off.

I know, but I couldn't leave it like that.

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Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post
...the bucket sides flattened the outside diameter of the softened noodle. I will only be using the inside potion of the noodle for the flare so this flattening shouldn't be a problem, but I decided to do something about it anyway...

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post #32 of 57 Old 06-03-2015, 11:03 PM
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Very Nice @Augerhandle . Good to see others still interested in this design. It really has a ton of advantages. I'm building several myself right now. It looks to be a great build. I'll be watching.
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post #33 of 57 Old 06-04-2015, 04:19 AM
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I love your design details and detailed drawings
I did sonotube cabs once and got really tired of routing out all those circles... especially since my router dust collection was jury rigged at that time.
You will find, at least at Home Depot, that the specced diameter is just an approximation so you will have to measure and adjust your design to fit.
Their diameter is so variable they actually store the smaller ones inside the larger ones. Matching diameters on two tubes might be a problem.
Have fun...
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post #34 of 57 Old 06-04-2015, 12:46 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JackNC View Post
I love your design details and detailed drawings
I did sonotube cabs once and got really tired of routing out all those circles... especially since my router dust collection was jury rigged at that time.
You will find, at least at Home Depot, that the specced diameter is just an approximation so you will have to measure and adjust your design to fit.
Their diameter is so variable they actually store the smaller ones inside the larger ones. Matching diameters on two tubes might be a problem.
Have fun...

Thanks.


To what diameter are you referring, the port tube? See post 5, I bought this:


http://www.ads-pipe.com/en/product.a...____smoothwall


It's a Polyethylene drain pipe with a black liner, so I don't have to paint it. It was much cheaper (< $1.50/lf) than anything else that I was able to source, and since it came in 10 ft lengths, diameters match exactly.

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post #35 of 57 Old 06-04-2015, 12:53 PM
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No, I was talking about sonotubes, not the port tubes. Pipes are quite uniform or connectors wouldn't work but cardboard sonotubes are all over the place in diameter.
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post #36 of 57 Old 06-04-2015, 01:06 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JackNC View Post
No, I was talking about sonotubes, not the port tubes. Pipes are quite uniform or connectors wouldn't work but cardboard sonotubes are all over the place in diameter.

So the larger sonotubes vary? As in two 22" would not necessarily be 22", nor match?

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post #37 of 57 Old 06-04-2015, 01:10 PM
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This was 2 years ago so I don't recall exactly but I found at least .5" variation in diameter over the 6 pieces on the shelf. I was buying 12" diameter sonotubes. I was just sounding a cautionary note. Up at 22" and from an industrial supplier vs Home Depot, it might be different.
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post #38 of 57 Old 06-04-2015, 01:46 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JackNC View Post
This was 2 years ago so I don't recall exactly but I found at least .5" variation in diameter over the 6 pieces on the shelf. I was buying 12" diameter sonotubes. I was just sounding a cautionary note. Up at 22" and from an industrial supplier vs Home Depot, it might be different.

Ah, gotcha. Yeah, I knew the Big Box store Sonotube sizes vary with the smaller tubes. As for the 22". I'm not worried either, because I can get at least two out of one 12' length, and I'm not cutting wood until I have the Sonotube on site. Thanks for the warning, though.


EDIT: I just inquired about the Sonotube, and the larger sizes also vary + or - 1/2" (good to know, in case this is critical for anyone else). Thanks again, @JackNC , for bringing this up.

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post #39 of 57 Old 06-07-2015, 11:59 PM - Thread Starter
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Bridged vs Stereo/Mono (Series vs Parallel)


I've been thinking about running the sub and amp at 8 ohm and bridged to start, since I'll be running a single sub (Dual 4 ohm voice coils).

The NU3000DSP is rated for the same wattage in 8 ohm bridged mode as it is for 2 ohm stereo/mono mode. While I expect that I'll build another of these, I don't think it will happen for a while, and I'm thinking 8 ohm bridged should be easier on the amp than 2 ohms on one channel.

I am also going to run a 12/3 cable just so I can have 1+, 1-, and 2+ available from the amp whenever I need them, without having to rewire my speakON cable to change loads.

That said, I don't want to have to pull the driver and re-wire the voice coils when the time comes to add another sub either, so I had been thinking about installing an impedance switch to switch the load over to 2 ohm (parallel) down the road. It then occurred to me that:

1. I may be running a single sub for quite some time,
2. It may be impractical and overkill to have a heavy duty switch that may only be used once, or even never.
3. Accidental switching could happen, causing the amp to run bridged into a 2 ohm load!

Thinking about these issues, I decided that rather than use the standard DPDT switch for series/parallel selection, if I used a 3PDT switch I could easily switch between Channel A @ 2 ohm (on 1+ and 1-) and bridged @ 8 ohm (on 1+ and 2+), while making it impossible to run bridged into 2 ohms (a DPDT switch can switch between series and parallel, but for amp safety I need the 3rd pole to switch between 1- and 2+).

That would take care of my third concern, but it still leaves 1. and 2., so I decided to find another solution that would eliminate the switch altogether, while still allowing me a somewhat painless method to change the wiring (or not change it, as the case may be).

I will install (two) 4 Position Molex jacks wired to the terminals of the speakON jack, with a single matching plug coming from the voice coils.

I can then plug into one jack (Jack 2) and be connected in series for 8 ohms from the bridged output of 1+ and 2+, and down the road simply remove the speakON jack (4 screws) to access the wiring, switch the plug to the 2 ohm parallel jack (Jack 1) and button it back up. I can do this for under $5 in parts.


(the panel mount ears will be removed):
http://www.molex.com/molex/products/...P_HOUSINGS.xml

I more than likely will only switch jacks once, but I will always have the option to switch back. The jacks I chose are about 1/2 inch tall x 1/2 inch wide, so they should easily fit through the speakON jack mounting hole. The jacks will be wired and loomed together in tandem with only two wires between them, for a lower profile and so that one doesn't interfere with the other when inserting or removing them through the speakON mounting hole. I drew the schematic out (see below) using an inline 4 jack and plug layout to make it easy to follow, but I will be using a 2 x 2 plug and jacks (shown above) to fit through the hole. If it still proves too tight, I will fabricate a mounting plate for the speakON jack and just make a larger access hole.

Here is the wiring layout:




I don't need to explain this for most of you, but I do so for the electrically challenged:

2 ohm stereo/mono, wired in parallel.
Current flows from 1- on the speakON (black wire) into Jack 1, which has a jumper between Positions 2 and 4. This routes the signal into the negative side of both voice coils (in parallel, via the blue wires), out the positive sides, returning (red wires) to Positions 1 and 3, which then continue back to 1+ on the speakON.

8 ohm, bridged, wired in series.
When plugged into Jack 2, current flows from 2+ (green wire) through Position 2 into the negative side of the first voice coil, continuing from the voice coil into and through Position 3, then across the jumper to Position 4, where it then is routed through the second voice coil (a series connection) and back out through Position 1 to 1+ on the speakON.
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post #40 of 57 Old 06-07-2015, 11:59 PM - Thread Starter
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In other news, I've been having trouble sourcing 22" sonotube. Every place I've found carries 20" and 24" but would have to special order 22". The problem with that is that the shipping would be insanely expensive for one sonotube due to it's bulk. The solution is to add a 22" to their next truckload (it will slide inside a 24" tube). I've gotten the same story from every supply house I called "No problem, we'll have 'em throw one on the next order. Let me check with purchasing to see when our next order will be and I will call you back, no problem." Unfortunately, not one salesman has called back... I've followed up, and then a new salesperson (the first one is always out of the office) promises that same thing, rinse and repeat, ad nauseam, ad infinitum.

I know I'll eventually get my order in, but in the meantime, I've sourced a single 22" tube about 100 miles from me. A friend of a friend lives about 12 miles from it, so the plan is for him to snag it tomorrow before it's gone, and soon one of us will road trip for a visit and it will be delivered in the process.


Just a few more ducks to gather, and I'll have enough to put them in a row...

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post #41 of 57 Old 06-08-2015, 04:52 AM
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Odd... My buddy and I found 22" for my sonotubes at the first place we called. Maybe it was just luck.
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post #42 of 57 Old 06-08-2015, 08:52 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Stereodude View Post
Odd... My buddy and I found 22" for my sonotubes at the first place we called. Maybe it was just luck.

I'm presently living in a small town far from any metro areas, so that's probably the issue. The nearest city with a population over 200,000 is about an hour an a half away. It's kind of funny, if I was building this thing 5 years ago, I could have had the sonotube and MDF added to a routine order and delivered to my office by a regular vendor. I'd also have access to the fab shop (and a friendly carpenter) to build it in-house.

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post #43 of 57 Old 06-12-2015, 04:12 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post
...I've sourced a single 22" tube about 100 miles from me. A friend of a friend lives about 12 miles from it, so the plan is for him to snag it tomorrow before it's gone, and soon one of us will road trip for a visit and it will be delivered in the process....

Well a company 100 miles away no longer carries sonotube, and listed several on craigslist for a song, including one 22" that I mentioned. My friend's friend has picked it up, and now it's just a matter of time before it's here.


22" x 13' for $35!

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post #44 of 57 Old 07-10-2015, 08:01 PM - Thread Starter
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My 12/3 speakOn cable (1+, 1-, AND 2+ terminals used, so it works for single channel or bridged).


I used tech-flex sheathing (black with purple stripe) and gold speakOn with purple bushing for the WAF... NOT!


I'm color coding one end for when I amp my LCR speakers (purple for sub(s), green for center, white for left, red for right). I used tech-flex because...well, because I can.







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post #45 of 57 Old 07-11-2015, 01:40 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post


Bridged vs Stereo/Mono (Series vs Parallel)


...I am also going to run a 12/3 cable just so I can have 1+, 1-, and 2+ available from the amp whenever I need them, without having to rewire my speakON cable to change loads.

That said, I don't want to have to pull the driver and re-wire the voice coils when the time comes to add another sub either, so...I will install (two) 4 Position Molex jacks wired to the terminals of the speakON jack, with a single matching plug coming from the voice coils.

I can then plug into one jack (Jack 2) and be connected in series for 8 ohms from the bridged output of 1+ and 2+, and down the road simply remove the speakON jack (4 screws) to access the wiring, switch the plug to the 2 ohm parallel jack (Jack 1) and button it back up. I can do this for under $5 in parts...





Wiring harness finished!



Close-up of parts/wiring (Red = 1+, White = 1-, Blue/green = 2+)





another view





with speaker wires plugged into series Jack (8 ohm, bridged connection, using 1+ and 2+). The other Jack uses 1+ and 1- to enable a parallel, 2 ohm connection, so now it is impossible to present the wrong load to the amp.





another view of complete assembly (each speaker lead will go to its own coil on the driver)






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Last edited by Augerhandle; 08-26-2015 at 11:43 AM. Reason: added schematic
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post #46 of 57 Unread 03-18-2017, 06:25 PM - Thread Starter
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I remember being puzzled by build threads that go on for years or just die off halfway through a project...and here I am, almost 2 years later, finally adding some progress pics .


Lots of life moments and higher priorities got in the way, but I finally got around to making some sawdust! Pictures to follow!


(the two subs are now being built concurrently)

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post #47 of 57 Unread 03-18-2017, 06:43 PM - Thread Starter
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Cellphone camera...




A quick mockup for proof of concept before cutting port and driver holes









Obligatory in-process pic






Port collar test fitting.


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post #48 of 57 Unread 03-18-2017, 06:54 PM
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So i'll be building 4 more subs soon - you can buy massive ports online. I found an 8" diameter port that flares out to an insane 13" and it was only ~$45 shipped. You can then wrap it in foil to make a mold and replicate them with resin.
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post #49 of 57 Unread 03-18-2017, 07:00 PM - Thread Starter
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Circle Jig.


Reversed and flipped edge guide (came with router) shown with a fabricated pin attachment (I was going to make this from a wood block, but my son decided to make it longer lasting) It is adjustable to cut a little over a 24" diameter, and is reversible to cut an inside diameter as small as 7" (or 6-3/4" outside diameter).










Setting the radius.

Holes in the ruler are located so that the proper radius setting can be directly read at edge of router base (about 8-3/8" in this picture, for a 16-3/4" dia. cutout). Note that the "inside" hole is used for an "inside" diameter cut.









Close-up view of holes in ruler. Inside hole is for inside cuts (holes), and outside hole is for outside cuts (discs)

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post #50 of 57 Unread 03-18-2017, 07:13 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveCallas View Post
So i'll be building 4 more subs soon - you can buy massive ports online. I found an 8" diameter port that flares out to an insane 13" and it was only ~$45 shipped. You can then wrap it in foil to make a mold and replicate them with resin.

That's good to know. I rescued my port tubes from the trash at work. ID is about 6-3/4", which fit my design perfectly. And after mulling over different flaring scenarios, I found out that a friend of a coworker works in a cabinet shop, so now the the plan is to pay for 1-1/2" round overs with beer.

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Ok....but these are 3" flare radius - just sayin lol.
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post #52 of 57 Unread 03-18-2017, 07:44 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Ok....but these are 3" flare radius - just sayin lol.

I like it, but an 8" diameter would add over 10" to my port length, making it unusable in my design.


My latest simulation shows a port velocity of 16.5 m/s at 20 Hz, so I'm thinking 1-1/2" round overs will still be adequate. If not, I left room to change out the port flares.

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post #53 of 57 Unread 03-19-2017, 06:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Parts cut and laid out in order of assembly (the duplicate parts for second sub are off camera). I still need to do some assembly, gluing, and drill the pilot holes for driver mounting. Then flush cut the top port holes in preparation for round overs. I'll probably get back to it in a few weeks.











My original design called for a removable port and flare assembly. As I became more confident in the design, this changed. The top flare MDF layer was replaced by a speaker grille to cover the port. That MDF layer was then moved below the port plug to become part of the port collar, and provide the depth needed for the 1-1/2" round over. The top trim ring was re-sized to fit around the grille
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post #54 of 57 Unread Today, 02:25 AM - Thread Starter
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...and a few weeks becomes a few months.


Meanwhile...


I decided to just buy a few bits and do the round overs myself


Top flare












Night falls as I complete the Bottom Flare (torus)










Test fitting with port tube (well, it looks like a Pub Table)



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I originally planned one 15" subwoofer, with another to follow later. When the SI 15" were discontinued, I just missed getting my second driver. So I got an 18" instead.




Here is the driver mounting hole locations laid out for threaded inserts. Two 18" driver baffles, plus a reduction flange for the 15" driver, so I won't have to modify the 15" hole (much) if I ever get a second 18".




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Sealing the cut surfaces with drywall compound (spackle) prior to painting.











The plan is to prime everything to seal against moisture, and then paint the visible surfaces a gloss black.
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Some parts set up for paint (inverted port assembly with extra port collar from second sub, using scrap section of port tube).













After primer













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