I was wondering if anybody out there has tried to replace the amp in an M&K subwoofer with a non-M&K amp.
Theory: M&K makes great drivers and enclosures/design for their subwoofers, but some models such as mine (MX-105) are underpowered for the amount of air the drivers could push.
I was thinking of getting something like a class D or BASH 300S amp and retrofitting it into the sub. Something like a class D amp would provide a lot of clean, efficient power into the drivers and ultimately be louder than the stock amp. I think models such as the MX-350 are really the same exact thing I have but with a more powerful amp.
Amps are generally matched to the driver. But with more power, you'd just have more headroom on tap. Your bass management(if you have any) should keep it from blowing itself up. At least that's the way it's supposed to work.
Anything to lookout for when trying to pair an amp with the drivers in the sub? And by bass management: do you mean a preamp smart enough to only give it bass frequencies (such as a receiver's sub output)?
That's the crossover, your reciever should cover you there, as well as most plate amps.
What you need to look out for is bottoming the driver.
If the subwoofer you are replacing the amp for was ported, chances are that amp had a built in subsonic filter. This cuts out really low frequencies so that you do not bottom it.
judging by a quick google, I'd estimate the subwoofer was ported at around 20-30hz. You want a replacement amp with a filter in it as well.
Edit, you could also probably find a Inuke1000DSP to power it, and that would give you all the power you need, for not much more, and it also allows you to make custom filters like a high-pass (subsonic). You'd have to patch the hole though.
The iNuke is a great suggestion. It would be easy to do. You could even pull out the old amp and seal it up.
Just remove the drivers and old amp. Now put your mdf on the ground, place your cabinet so the hole of the old amp is on top of the mdf. Reach through the front where the old driver was and trace the shape of the old amp hole on your mdf.
In order to secure it you can get a 1X4 and cut two pieces a few inches longer than the hole. Place them inside the hole and secure with screws. Place the hole plug on top of the 1X4's and secure which screws. Now seal up the perimeter of the hole with a bit of caulk or PL, sand and paint.
Now install either a terminal cup or speakon connector, wire everything back up, and you're good to go.
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