Micro Marty build (total noob) - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 5 Old 12-11-2014, 10:24 AM - Thread Starter
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Micro Marty build (total noob)

first of all, many many thanks to the very helpful and informative people on this forum. It is crazy what some of you guys are capable of doing, and putting all this information and advice for free is very generous of everyone. A couple months ago i had no clue what any of this subwoofer mumbojumbo was and now thanks to everyone here, im down half a grand and addicted to bass!!! :-)

So, I am posting this up in case it might be helpful for someone on here, and to show my gratitude to those of you who have already posted your builds and advice here. This would not have been possible without you.

Brief history about my equipment.

Receiver:
About 4 years ago i decided to upgrade my receiver. Out went a htib Panasonic receiver and in came a denon avr-891. I was blown away by it at the time. Audyssey MultEQ was great but I kept reading and hearing about how great XT32 was. I kept the receiver for about a year, and then had enough money to upgrade again. I found an an open box Yamaha RX-A2010 at best buy at an unbelievable price. This receiver was in a class of its own. A year later I got a onkyo 818 to get XT32. And currently i have a yamaha rx-a2030.

Speakers:
I went from HTIB speakers, to BIC FH6-LCRs. Sold those, got some Polk Audio RTI A7 and csi a6, got rid of those. and currently have emp tek e55ti and e56ci. love the emp teks. "upgraded" the tweeters on them based on a recommendation from another user here on the forums. a little brighter now but much more to my liking which is what is most important.

on to the subwoofer:

Ive had a BIC Formula F12 for almost 4 years. I always kept the sub very low as i found it to be very boomy at times and never really balanced. I tried different locations in our living room and never found it to blend in well with any of the speakers i purchased. So a couple months ago i sold it on craigslist, purchased 2 SI 15 D4 (during the sale woohoo!) with plans to build a couple of micro marty's for maximum WAF.

I purchased an iNuke 3000DSP and off i went.

Last night i finally got around to hooking it all up and testing the drivers. I still havent built the cabinets yet but I'm planning on doing that during the next couple of weekends.

I bought (2) XLR Male-to-RCA Male cables. Hooked each cable (RCA end) to my receiver. The yamaha has 2 subwoofer outputs, so i hooked each cable to its own sub output. Sub1 cable goes to the Behringer InputA. Sub2 output on receiver goes to Behringer InputB. I made sure that both subwoofers were enabled on the receiver's manual speaker setup. I set them to 'Monaural x2'. I also set the subwoofer level on the receiver to 0db for each output. That takes care of the subwoofer input on the inuke. Now for the output from the inuke to the subwoofers. I purchased (2) 2-conductor NL4 Female to NL4 Female cables off monoprice and hooked one cable to outputA and the other to outputB on the inuke. Each cable will go to the sub cabinets and plug into the NEUTRIK NL4MPR SPEAKON CONNECTOR 4 POLE ROUND CHASSIS MOUNT. These are the adapters that will go on the cabinets that the NL4 cables plug into.

Now, the subwoofers are of the D4 variety. Each driver has 2 voice coils (ie, 2 pairs of speaker connections). Per the forum's suggestion, I connected the voice coils in parallel meaning i took a wire and connected the red (+) for one coil to the other red (+) on the other coil. Repeat the same for the black (-). I did this on each subwoofer. Next I connected a speaker cable to the + and - on the subwoofer and put the red to the +1 on the neutrik adapters and the black one to the -1 on the netrik connector. Repeated this step for each subwoofer.

Now that I had all my connections set and double-checked. I made sure to turn the knobs on the face of the inuke to 3'o clock. From what i gather, this is the input resistance. Turning it all the way to about 5'o clock means you are not blocking any of the input from the receiver. I didn't want to go full so for testing i went to 3'o clock.

Powered on the inuke. Plugged the supplied USB cable to the front and the other end to the laptop and launched the inuke software. I went ahead and did some tweaks (nothing scientific) since i dont have a calibrating mic (nor sub cabinets yet for that matter). In the configuration tab I set the inuke to dual mono. In the Filter/Crossover tab i set a high pass to 23hz Butterworth 12db.(just for testing) for each channel. In the PEQ tab, I have Filter 1 at 20hz boosted by 3db Quality 1.0 type PEQ.

let me just say that I was immediately blown away!!! these things rock. and i havent even put them in a cabinet yet. just have them sitting on the rug on the floor. MOVE OVER F12!!!

I cant believe I waited so long to do this!!!

A couple questions for you fellas, I did not create a low pass filter yet, is one required/beneficial? Also, on the Configuration tab, I left the "Load" part empty for each channel. Should I specify the OHM here or just leave it blank?

Im going to come back with pics of all my wiring and configuration as well. I'll also include photos of my build progress. currently thinking of going with a pair of Micro Martys, but i want to trim the width of the cabinet from 21" to 18" and add those 3" to the height. Would this require me to raise the port height by 3" as well?

Last edited by bighernan; 12-11-2014 at 10:28 AM.
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post #2 of 5 Old 12-11-2014, 01:43 PM
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Sounds like your on your way. Yes if you make microcube 3" narrower then you have to add 3" somewhere else. Remember the tuning of Micro is 23hz so set the hpf at 23hz. Then add a 2dbs peq at 23hz and it should be flat to 20 -21 hz.

3 o'clock is good starting point for gains. If you find during heavy bass scenes that you never get more then 2 gain lights to come on then turn gains up a bit. I like my gains set so at the loudest level I would listen at (reference for me) that the red clipping light would only come on rarely for a flicker. Maybe couple times in a big bass movie.
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post #3 of 5 Old 12-15-2014, 08:31 AM - Thread Starter
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Thank you chaluga for the reponse.

I went ahead and set the "load" to 4ohm for both A and B. Hope that is correct. I don't notice much a difference but maybe once the cabs are built it will make a difference.

Ordered a umik-1 on thursday last week that should arrive sometime this week so I'm going to get started on the build. My internet is down at home until the 20th so pics will have to wait until then.
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post #4 of 5 Old Today, 11:14 AM
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I'm dragging this thread back to the top!

So did you ever finish your cabinets? Do you have any pictures of the final product? And, what do you think of the microcubes since you've had them for a few months?
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post #5 of 5 Old Today, 06:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lhard77 View Post
I'm dragging this thread back to the top!

So did you ever finish your cabinets? Do you have any pictures of the final product? And, what do you think of the microcubes since you've had them for a few months?
What are you looking for?
I built 2 micros with MFW-15 drivers, and they sound VG, they just don't have the output I want because of the 225 watt drivers....they have gotten what I see as ~350 each from the limiter/clip lights on my amp though.
Micros sound VG with drivers modeled for them, you give up extension because of their smaller size , but I got plenty of room gain to make up for it in my small ~1200ft^3 room

Why waste $ on more cheap stuff, it's like challenging a dragon with a pocket knife.
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