Questions about first sub build - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
Baselworld is only a few weeks away. Getting the latest news is easy, Click Here for info on how to join the Watchuseek.com newsletter list. Follow our team for updates featuring event coverage, new product unveilings, watch industry news & more!


Forum Jump: 
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #1 of 67 Old 01-10-2015, 05:52 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
kiwijunglist's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 160
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 54 Post(s)
Liked: 16
Questions about first sub build

Hi

So this will be my first subwoofer and my first ever DIY job. I have a medium sized open lounge, but I am currently renting so I need something that I can take with me when I move. I listen to most movies below reference volume around -15 to -25dB on my pioneer. So I don't need loud but I would like a lot of low extension.

I've decided to go for a sonotube subwoofer, because there is less work involved. I don't have any power tools so I will be paying a friend of a friend to do the routering for me, or I will ask a local furniture shop to do it for me.

I know that ported subwoofers will go a lot lower at loud volumes, but since I don't need to go really loud am I better off with a sealed sub? Would a sealed sub with lots of EQ give better sound than a ported. I would be using inuke 3000dsp or 6000dsp.

Is there any advantage in going with a smaller woofer ie 15 vs 18" other than size. The price difference between 15 and 18 doesn't really matter to me. Bearing in mind that I am only playing at below reference volumes and my fronts have good bass extension down to the 30s, so my X-Over would be set at 50 or 80, meaning the subwoofer doesn't have to play much above 80-100hz.

HTPC (MediaPortal) / Pioneer SC LX87 / Wharfedale Jade 7 Fronts, 5 Rears, 2c Center / DIY Sub
kiwijunglist is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 67 Old 01-10-2015, 06:03 PM
AVS Addicted Member
 
LTD02's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 17,894
Mentioned: 59 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1073 Post(s)
Liked: 1475
room resonances create peaks and nulls around the room. multiple subs can help smooth that all out. you might actually be better off with a few small sealed 12" subs vs. one big 18" sonotube.

Listen. It's All Good.
LTD02 is online now  
post #3 of 67 Old 01-10-2015, 06:11 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Jay1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: West Valley, AZ
Posts: 4,510
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 225 Post(s)
Liked: 213
Along the lines of multiple cheaper subs, and you not cutting your own cabinets

http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-...kage--300-7098

4 of those with an nu3000dsp would do very well for $1100. You could drive 2 subs off each channel @ 2 ohms.
Jay1 is online now  
post #4 of 67 Old 01-10-2015, 08:25 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
kiwijunglist's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 160
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 54 Post(s)
Liked: 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay1 View Post
Along the lines of multiple cheaper subs, and you not cutting your own cabinets

http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-...kage--300-7098

4 of those with an nu3000dsp would do very well for $1100. You could drive 2 subs off each channel @ 2 ohms.

Hi thanks for the suggestions, but the shipping is quite high when shipping 4x large boxes.

4 x Dayton 12 DVC boxes is $800 + $680 shipping + $250 tax = $1730
1x 18" ultimax is $279 + $171 shipping + $105 tax = $555
1x 15" ultimax is ~$350USD via partsexpress on ebay
1x Dayton RSS460HO-4 is ~USD446

I can get the inuke locally, but have to import the drives.

HTPC (MediaPortal) / Pioneer SC LX87 / Wharfedale Jade 7 Fronts, 5 Rears, 2c Center / DIY Sub

Last edited by kiwijunglist; 01-10-2015 at 10:13 PM.
kiwijunglist is online now  
post #5 of 67 Old 01-10-2015, 08:27 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Jay1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: West Valley, AZ
Posts: 4,510
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 225 Post(s)
Liked: 213
Quote:
Originally Posted by kiwijunglist View Post
4 x Dayton 12 DVC boxes is $800 + $680 shipping + $250 tax = $1730

A 18" ultimax is $279 + $171 shipping + $105 tax = $555

A 15" ultimrax is $200 + $150 shipping + $0 tax = $350


I can get the inuke locally, but have to import the drives.
Didnt see your location

What I linked was $200 shipped for a dvc 15 + box

Do you not have sub retailers? Usually you can find car audio subs that work fine
Jay1 is online now  
post #6 of 67 Old 01-10-2015, 08:49 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
kiwijunglist's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 160
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 54 Post(s)
Liked: 16
Paying for shipping is cheaper than local price, here are some examples

The ultimax 15" comes to $450 NZD all up, here is what is available in NZ:

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-...-831146165.htm
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-...-831264392.htm
http://www.parallelimported.co.nz/ca...58-15-sub.html
http://www.parallelimported.co.nz/ca...subwoofer.html
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-...-831158476.htm

It's mostly alpine, jbl, soundstream, earthquake, infinity, cerwin vega, rockford

HTPC (MediaPortal) / Pioneer SC LX87 / Wharfedale Jade 7 Fronts, 5 Rears, 2c Center / DIY Sub
kiwijunglist is online now  
post #7 of 67 Old 01-10-2015, 08:56 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Jay1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: West Valley, AZ
Posts: 4,510
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 225 Post(s)
Liked: 213
What price can you get on an Alpine SWR-15? That is a great HT sub
Jay1 is online now  
post #8 of 67 Old 01-10-2015, 09:01 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
kiwijunglist's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 160
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 54 Post(s)
Liked: 16
ALPINE SWR-1542D TYPE-R 15"

RRP is $700 NZD in New Zelaland

$650 (510 USD) on special at the moment. Might be able to bargain a bit less.

Also available here:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Alpine-SWR-1...item1e922ea592

Comes out to be almost the same price as the ultimax 15. Is it a better sub than the ultimax?

HTPC (MediaPortal) / Pioneer SC LX87 / Wharfedale Jade 7 Fronts, 5 Rears, 2c Center / DIY Sub

Last edited by kiwijunglist; 01-10-2015 at 09:28 PM.
kiwijunglist is online now  
post #9 of 67 Old 01-10-2015, 09:25 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
kiwijunglist's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 160
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 54 Post(s)
Liked: 16
Ideally if there was somewhere in asia that was selling direct to customers online, then I could buy from there and I would be paying the same amount of postage as USA customers. However it seems no one seems to order subwoofers direct from asian manufacturers.

HTPC (MediaPortal) / Pioneer SC LX87 / Wharfedale Jade 7 Fronts, 5 Rears, 2c Center / DIY Sub
kiwijunglist is online now  
post #10 of 67 Old 01-10-2015, 10:14 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Jay1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: West Valley, AZ
Posts: 4,510
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 225 Post(s)
Liked: 213
Based on the insane prices you're paying that um15 for $350 sounds like the best deal
Jay1 is online now  
post #11 of 67 Old 01-10-2015, 10:25 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
kiwijunglist's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 160
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 54 Post(s)
Liked: 16
Im trying to get partsexpress to add the 18 to their ebay page as it seems to be cheaper to ship from their ebay store. I think i might have to wait till is back in stock.

HTPC (MediaPortal) / Pioneer SC LX87 / Wharfedale Jade 7 Fronts, 5 Rears, 2c Center / DIY Sub
kiwijunglist is online now  
post #12 of 67 Old 01-10-2015, 10:25 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
kiwijunglist's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 160
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 54 Post(s)
Liked: 16
Will i see much difference between the 15 and 18?

HTPC (MediaPortal) / Pioneer SC LX87 / Wharfedale Jade 7 Fronts, 5 Rears, 2c Center / DIY Sub
kiwijunglist is online now  
post #13 of 67 Old 01-10-2015, 10:27 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
kiwijunglist's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 160
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 54 Post(s)
Liked: 16
My goal is low extension and tight bass. Loudness is less important to me, so i could always eq more extension. I don't need to go above 100hz and my cross over to my large mains is 50hz.

HTPC (MediaPortal) / Pioneer SC LX87 / Wharfedale Jade 7 Fronts, 5 Rears, 2c Center / DIY Sub
kiwijunglist is online now  
post #14 of 67 Old 01-10-2015, 10:36 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Jay1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: West Valley, AZ
Posts: 4,510
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 225 Post(s)
Liked: 213
The 18 will have an advantage across the board. If you can get it for a decent deal it's worth it. I wouldn't pay $200 more for it though.
Jay1 is online now  
post #15 of 67 Old 01-10-2015, 11:14 PM
Member
 
sooly1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 97
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Liked: 28
4 12's

if you can find infinity 1260's local and build your own boxes, and put them in your room, personally, I would consider that. I have one 1060 in a 1 cubic foot box with 300 watts of power that I use for outside parties and it does a great job.
With that said. My advice.
Model the speakers you can get for the least money local. weigh price performance of the drivers after you model them. Purchase what is the best price performance king and build boxes from that.
If space is a restriction, and you NEED to buy subs from the motherland (good ole us of A flame on) contact Nick at stereo Integrity, maybe he can work something out for you. He's a great guy and builds amazing subs.
My SI18D2 has been taking a TON of punishment for months on end. Poor thing in it's 11 cu ft enclosure still upsets my nieghbors.
Poor thing went through multiple Edge of Tmrw opening scene sweeps as a demo for about 25 ppl over the course of a few hours at a party one night (8 seperate playings).......brutal, the looks back at me are still priceless! Then after that I played the bass demo disc from these forums.
It's still singing away, punishing my foundation.
I hate to suggest anything but SI at this point, but your local makes it tough.
Good luck in your search. If you find a local sub that is cheaper than an import, post it here, and some of the master minds can help figure out an enclosure that will work for you.

sooly1 is offline  
post #16 of 67 Old 01-10-2015, 11:14 PM
Advanced Member
 
More is Better's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: USA
Posts: 723
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 241 Post(s)
Liked: 141
How about Infinity 1262w x4 in 4 ported 6cuft cabinets with 14hz tune + an inuke3000dsp? Gets you 114db at 15hz. And 4 cabs to smooth out room response. With enough power to add 4 more if you get the upgrade bug.


http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-...-832058071.htm


All for about 1K NZD + boxes/sonotubes.


edit: beat me to it by seconds

Last edited by More is Better; 01-10-2015 at 11:18 PM.
More is Better is offline  
post #17 of 67 Old 01-11-2015, 12:43 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
kiwijunglist's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 160
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 54 Post(s)
Liked: 16
Stereo integrity were about double the price once shipped so they are not an option

HTPC (MediaPortal) / Pioneer SC LX87 / Wharfedale Jade 7 Fronts, 5 Rears, 2c Center / DIY Sub
kiwijunglist is online now  
post #18 of 67 Old 01-11-2015, 09:50 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
kiwijunglist's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 160
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 54 Post(s)
Liked: 16
I found some cheap infinity
http://www.qualitycaraudio.co.nz/ind...ice&order=DESC

However I'm not so keen on building 4x boxes!

HTPC (MediaPortal) / Pioneer SC LX87 / Wharfedale Jade 7 Fronts, 5 Rears, 2c Center / DIY Sub
kiwijunglist is online now  
post #19 of 67 Old 01-11-2015, 10:20 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Jay1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: West Valley, AZ
Posts: 4,510
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 225 Post(s)
Liked: 213
Quote:
Originally Posted by kiwijunglist View Post
I found some cheap infinity
http://www.qualitycaraudio.co.nz/ind...ice&order=DESC

However I'm not so keen on building 4x boxes!

There you go! That's only about $15-$20 more then we pay instead of several hundred.

You could put 2 drivers per box. Dual opposed, or stacked array.
Jay1 is online now  
post #20 of 67 Old 01-15-2015, 12:53 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
kiwijunglist's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 160
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 54 Post(s)
Liked: 16
Yeah if I went with those I'd go 2 per box, but then I'd have to go sealed rather than ported. Not sure if I will go the 2/4 sub route, because I will be paying someone to router/cut all the discs so it might end up costing me more

HTPC (MediaPortal) / Pioneer SC LX87 / Wharfedale Jade 7 Fronts, 5 Rears, 2c Center / DIY Sub
kiwijunglist is online now  
post #21 of 67 Old 01-21-2015, 04:52 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
kiwijunglist's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 160
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 54 Post(s)
Liked: 16
Thanks for the advice.

An Imported Ultimax 15" Driver is the equivalent local price to 6.3x 1260W drivers.

I'm going with the 1260W drivers and I want to make 2x enclosures most likely with sonotubes. The reason for sonotubes, is that I live in an apartment, and I can pay/bribe someone to cut the circles for me, and I can do the rest of the assembly at home without buying many tools etc. I will pair with an iNuke DSP 1000/3000 amp. I'm not keen on going with the 6000 due to cost. The system is mostly for movies. My surround speakers are very large, so either the crossover will sit at 50hz or all the speakers will be set to large and the sub will only play the LFE channel.

The sonotube I would most likely use would be 14 inch / 355mm internal diameter which seems sufficient size for the driver housing which has an internal cut out diameter of 282mm this gives me a max size 73mm internal wooden mounting ring which should be plenty thick enough for strength. The outer diameter of the driver is 314mm so the end cap should have sufficent room for mounting + bottom legs. This gives me a max volume of approx 150L per sub less displacement of port etc. If I need more volume I need to jump up to a larger diameter tube or buy 2x sonotubes (not keen on this).

I figure the personal cost of adding a port and making a flare to be equal to the cost of an additional 1260W driver, so I want to compare sealed vs vented, but for sealed I can actually do twice as many drivers if required.

This is the modelling in winISD (which I have never used before)

Sealed 1x Driver (Green)

Sealed 2x Driver (Blue)

Vented 1x Driver (Orange)

Vented 1x Driver (Red)

It looks like the a single vented is outperforming a sub with dual drivers, is this correct. I only entered 1000W for each signal plot (regardless of whether the sub had one or two drivers), so I'm not sure if this is correct. Also I'm not sure if I should be evaluate the subs using maxSPL graph or a different graph. Also I don't know what to put for 'series resistance' under the power tab, the default value is 0.1ohm. (I know the subs are 4ohm, but If using 2 I would parallel wire them for a 2ohm load).

Can someone please give me some additional advice and comment on my graph or project file.

Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	kiwi01.png
Views:	317
Size:	67.1 KB
ID:	493434  
Attached Files
File Type: zip kiwijunglist.wpr.zip (1.1 KB, 2 views)

HTPC (MediaPortal) / Pioneer SC LX87 / Wharfedale Jade 7 Fronts, 5 Rears, 2c Center / DIY Sub

Last edited by kiwijunglist; 01-21-2015 at 05:18 PM.
kiwijunglist is online now  
post #22 of 67 Old 01-21-2015, 05:12 PM
Advanced Member
 
smcmillan2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Farmington, MI, USA
Posts: 612
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 235 Post(s)
Liked: 129
Couple of things:

Is the Red or Orange the vented single driver? I see you have differing net volume on each of those so I can't really tell.
Check your cone excursion and port velocity (on the ported). At 1000W I'm sure they are through the roof.

I have a single 1260w in a 4.1^ft3 (116 liter) ported box, tuned to ~19.5Hz. I set the limit on the iNuke 1000 to 200W (that driver's specs are 300W RMS, 1200 peak) because the modeling I did showed I would exceed xmax and get up over 25m/s port air speed above that, both of which I am trying to avoid. My modeling also showed better response from a single driver in that cabinet vs. dual.

Last edited by smcmillan2; 01-21-2015 at 05:19 PM. Reason: Wrong driver specs
smcmillan2 is offline  
post #23 of 67 Old 01-21-2015, 05:23 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
kiwijunglist's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 160
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 54 Post(s)
Liked: 16
Both red + orange are same ported single driver, just different tuning freq + volume.

Ahh yes I have to readjust for cone excursion, the cone excursion graft was completely flat before, but now it's showing up correctly.

HTPC (MediaPortal) / Pioneer SC LX87 / Wharfedale Jade 7 Fronts, 5 Rears, 2c Center / DIY Sub
kiwijunglist is online now  
post #24 of 67 Old 01-21-2015, 05:30 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
kiwijunglist's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 160
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 54 Post(s)
Liked: 16
ok I limited power, and added a single highpass filter to each ported sub, no longer exceeding xmax.

Green - Sealed, 36L, 300W

Blue (2x driver) - Sealed, 73L, 600W

Red - Ported, 134L, 18.5Hz Tune, 18.5Hz High Pass, 300W

Orange - Ported, 69L, 24.5Hz Tune, 19.75Hz High Pass, 300W

Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	kiwi02.png
Views:	325
Size:	61.5 KB
ID:	493442  

HTPC (MediaPortal) / Pioneer SC LX87 / Wharfedale Jade 7 Fronts, 5 Rears, 2c Center / DIY Sub
kiwijunglist is online now  
post #25 of 67 Old 01-21-2015, 05:40 PM
Advanced Member
 
smcmillan2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Farmington, MI, USA
Posts: 612
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 235 Post(s)
Liked: 129
Quote:
Originally Posted by kiwijunglist View Post
Both red + orange are same ported single driver, just different tuning freq + volume.
Ahh, OK, I thought you had one with 2 drivers.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kiwijunglist
Ahh yes I have to readjust for cone excursion, the cone excursion graft was completely flat before, but now it's showing up correctly.
Yep, this is where the dance starts. You have to balance the target SPL with cone excursion and (if ported) port velocity. It's a game!

As gross size was my biggest limitation (due to WAF) I started with that and a tuning goal of ~19Hz, ran the model through WinISD to learn the port size, subtracted that volume and driver/bracing volume to determine net volume, recalculated as above and went from there. My 28Wx21Hx17.5D (in inches) box grosses at ~4.7^ft3, but nets around 4.1, so that's what I plug into WinISD (I'm very new to this as well).

After all that I built a test box to see if it really worked, and lo and behold, it did. My room gain gets me an F3 at about 18Hz, which is a nice surprise.
smcmillan2 is offline  
post #26 of 67 Old 01-21-2015, 05:44 PM
Advanced Member
 
smcmillan2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Farmington, MI, USA
Posts: 612
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 235 Post(s)
Liked: 129
Quote:
Originally Posted by kiwijunglist View Post
ok I limited power, and added a single highpass filter to each ported sub, no longer exceeding xmax.

Green - Sealed, 36L, 300W

Blue (2x driver) - Sealed, 73L, 600W

Red - Ported, 134L, 18.5Hz Tune, 18.5Hz High Pass, 300W

Orange - Ported, 69L, 24.5Hz Tune, 19.75Hz High Pass, 300W

You got this in while I was typing. What amp are you going with? If the iNukes, you can't place a HPF below 20Hz (at least not on the 1000), so set them there for your modeling. You can use a PEQ at 20Hz on the iNuke to bump the response back up.

EDIT: BTW, if you like deep bass for movies, you'll want to look real hard at that 134L ported model...

Last edited by smcmillan2; 01-21-2015 at 05:52 PM.
smcmillan2 is offline  
post #27 of 67 Old 01-21-2015, 05:52 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
kiwijunglist's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 160
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 54 Post(s)
Liked: 16
I'll be using iNuke DSP.

I think you can set a HPF below 20hz using a combination of 2x EQs
How to extend the high pass filter below 20hz in DCX2496

I imagine this is sorta what you are referring to, but I have adjusted for that, at the moment I've entered a single HPF into winisd.

I'm surprised that a single ported seems to be giving better performance than the dual drivers. I was hoping that I could make dual drivers in sealed model better than the ported. The group delay on the ported is much higher, I assume group delay is the delay between the sound coming out the port and the driver?

HTPC (MediaPortal) / Pioneer SC LX87 / Wharfedale Jade 7 Fronts, 5 Rears, 2c Center / DIY Sub
kiwijunglist is online now  
post #28 of 67 Old 01-21-2015, 05:56 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
kiwijunglist's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 160
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 54 Post(s)
Liked: 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by smcmillan2 View Post
You got this in while I was typing. What amp are you going with? If the iNukes, you can't place a HPF below 20Hz (at least not on the 1000), so set them there for your modeling. You can use a PEQ at 20Hz on the iNuke to bump the response back up.

EDIT: BTW, if you like deep bass for movies, you'll want to look real hard at that 134L ported model...
Oh I saw your reply then adjusted, but for someone reason I was so quick that my post got above your one somehow

Yes, I want deep bass for movies, don't need additional low end for music, my mains have dual 8 inch woofers to easily get down to 35-40hz.

HTPC (MediaPortal) / Pioneer SC LX87 / Wharfedale Jade 7 Fronts, 5 Rears, 2c Center / DIY Sub

Last edited by kiwijunglist; 01-21-2015 at 06:05 PM.
kiwijunglist is online now  
post #29 of 67 Old 01-21-2015, 05:59 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
kiwijunglist's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 160
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 54 Post(s)
Liked: 16
If I don't need really loud levels can I just EQ the 2x driver sealed sub to go down to 15hz @ 95db with a fairly flat curve up to 100hz, I can't seem to do that using the EQ.

HTPC (MediaPortal) / Pioneer SC LX87 / Wharfedale Jade 7 Fronts, 5 Rears, 2c Center / DIY Sub
kiwijunglist is online now  
post #30 of 67 Old 01-21-2015, 06:19 PM
Advanced Member
 
smcmillan2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Farmington, MI, USA
Posts: 612
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 235 Post(s)
Liked: 129
Quote:
Originally Posted by kiwijunglist View Post
If I don't need really loud levels can I just EQ the 2x driver sealed sub to go down to 15hz @ 95db with a fairly flat curve up to 100hz, I can't seem to do that using the EQ.
Don't bother EQing in WinISD, that will show you the "outdoor" model. It won't be anything like that once placed in your room.

After building/sub crawl/placement you'll want a mic (umic-1 is most recommended around here from what I can tell, I use a Samson GoMic) and REW to measure how the sub reacts in your room, then EQ from there.

Re: Group delay - I've never messed with it, and there are many here much smarter than I that I'm sure can tell you exactly what it is, but as I understand it group delay is the amount of time it takes an electrical input signal to become something you can hear.
smcmillan2 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply DIY Speakers and Subs

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off