MTG-06-OWS bookshelf build - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 10 Old 01-24-2015, 11:21 PM - Thread Starter
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MTG-06-OWS bookshelf build

I've been sitting on the parts to build new main speakers for my living room for way too long. I've got SEOS waveguides, CDs, and woofers in 12 and 15 inches (more indecision!) ready to build, but I've been having a heck of a time choosing a cabinet design that will look nice... and that I can build.

One of my ideas is 'truncated pyramid' towers, like the Zu Audio Soul. But I'm not so sure I can build that, so I decided to do a smaller test build first. I had most of the parts for the MTG-06-OWS (eos-6 WG, 6" woofer), so I decided to build a bookshelf version of those:
http://www.diysoundgroup.com/forum/index.php?topic=71.0

I was intent on miter-ing the corners, and I found some useful sites for calculating the required angles:
http://jansson.us/jcompound.html
http://www.pdxtex.com/canoe/compound.htm

I've been slowly working on them, and I feel like I turned a corner tonight and they are going to work, so I decided to create a thread.

Anyway, I cut the sides with my eurekazone track saw setup, but it's been hard to hold the sides to see how it all fits up. So I wasn't sure that my cuts were going to work. And it also seemed like it was going to be a nightmare to glue up. Until tonight! I decided to try using biscuits, and even for a dry fit, they hold everything in alignment remarkably well. All the miters look pretty good. There is a little room for improvement, but the joints all look good enough to glue.


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Last edited by maxcooper; 02-09-2015 at 10:02 AM. Reason: couldn't add already-taken pics via mobile
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post #2 of 10 Old 01-24-2015, 11:57 PM - Thread Starter
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I also got to have some fun tonight using a rabbet bit with my router. I wanted to rear-mount the woofers, like MTG did in the original build. That means that I needed a woofer hole the same size as the outer diameter of the surround, with a round-over on the front, and a rabbet on the back. I used my Jasper jig to cut the holes. I could also use the Jasper jig to cut the partial-depth rabbet on the back, but I figured that I'd have to do it with 2 passes since I was using a 1/4" bit. (Really, the rabbet only ended up being 3/8" wide, which I could have cut in a single pass with a 1/2" bit and a little math with the Jasper jig.) A big part of why I DIY is the fun of learning things, including woodworking techniques, so I decided to get a rabbet bit set for my router and do it that way.

It turned out to be really easy to do (one cut, no surprises) and came out perfect.
(Maybe I'll try this with a waveguide hole someday, using a an undersized template and putting a rabbet on the edge. Cutting the mounting surface free-hand with the router and cutting the hole with a jigsaw always looks so amateurish. )


Part of why I decided to rear-mount the woofer was that I thought the NS-6 woofer would be sort of ugly to look at from the front. After I cut the baffles, I dropped one of the woofers in backwards to test my ugly-when-front-mounted theory. I think my theory is a bit wrong; they look fine:


-Max
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Last edited by maxcooper; 02-09-2015 at 10:04 AM.
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post #3 of 10 Old 01-25-2015, 03:12 AM
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Great job. I will be building the MTG-08 soon when I buy the xo parts. Great to see another of his builds being started. What length track saw do you own?

I was looking at buying one of those also soon.
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post #4 of 10 Old 01-26-2015, 03:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrapladm View Post
Great job. I will be building the MTG-08 soon when I buy the xo parts. Great to see another of his builds being started. What length track saw do you own?

I was looking at buying one of those also soon.
I've got a 108" kit, which is two 54" tracks plus a connector kit. I do most cuts with a single 54" track, so it's nice that it splits. The connector kit does a nice job aligning the tracks, too -- no problems there. I set it up with a Makita 5007MG circular saw that I bought from Amazon.

Tips:
* If you are going to cut a lot of bevels (saw foot != 0 degrees), I would consider getting a Makita / Festool / DeWalt track saw. When cutting bevels with the eurekazone track setup, you have to remove the zero-clearance edges and you have to spend a lot more time placing the track since you can no longer use the edge as a reference. You can do it, and I did it successfully on some tricky cuts for these speakers, but it takes more time. On the other track saws, I think you can cut bevels with all the guides in place.
* The Makita 5007MG is a really nice circular saw, but I wish that I bought the 5007MGA, which has a brake. Otherwise, you need to spend a lot of time waiting for the saw to stop before you remove it from the track. I really wish my saw had an electric brake.
* I also fitted my saw with the eurekazone dust collection setup. It's pretty simple, and slightly destructive to install on your saw, but it works great. I use a Craftsman Auto-Switch to turn the vac on when the saw is running.
* I also got a short section of track (24"? 36"?), thinking that I'd use it for short cuts. But it's basically too short to be useful, so I never use it. The single 54" track is great for all-around use, and I haven't found a need for any shorter tracks.


MORE PROGRESS: I cut top and bottom pieces with a table saw (a big industrial SawStop), after trying and failing with a 12" non-sliding miter saw. The miter saw just didn't have enough capacity to make the cuts. I really enjoyed using the table saw. You can still screw up your cuts, but it's much easier and more efficient to make good cuts. It's nice to be able to work in my garage in the evenings, but it's probably worth the drive to go use that table saw more than I currently do.


NEXT STEPS (tonight, hopefully):
1. cut biscuit pockets in the tops (the bottoms will be removable for woofer access, so no need for biscuits there)
2. dry-fit with clamps to develop a clamping strategy before gluing -- I'm planning to use some strap clamps, but I'm not sure if they will "ride up" or not yet due to the non-parallel sides. And I don't really know how I'm going to clamp the tops in place.
3. glue!

-Max
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post #5 of 10 Old 02-09-2015, 12:35 AM - Thread Starter
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Tonight I cut the biscuit pockets in the tops, did a dry test-fit and test-clamp, and then glued up one of the cabinets. The glue-up went pretty well, even though I used the wrong glue. I got some Titebond 3 (III) because it said it had a longer working time, which I thought might be an issue for this complicated fit. But then I accidentally used Titebond 2 (II) instead. I think it turned out okay, anyway. I got a glue bottle and some brushes in hopes that they would make me more efficient, and I'd have to say that they both delivered on that promise.

I'll probably have to use some wood filler on some of the joints. And I'm not that sure if they will be airtight or not. I suppose I could have used PL Premium, but I was hoping to meet the challenge of getting the fit tight enough to use titebond. I'll see how the first one turns out and then decide before I glue up the second speaker. I'll probably use some silicone to seal the joints, just to be sure.

I used some strap clamps from Harbor Freight. I was worried that they might slip up the sides of the slanted walls, but they stayed put with no problems. They worked great. I also used bar clamps to press the top into place / vertically align the sides (by pulling the low side into the top). Biscuits really held all the joints in alignment beautifully. This is the first important project that I've used biscuits on, and they are really helpful and really easy to do. I will be using biscuits on many future projects.

Oh, and I also drilled holes for the woofer, just deep enough for a 5/8" long screw without breaking through the front.

Hopefully the fit will be as good on the other speaker and I can glue it up the same way.





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Last edited by maxcooper; 02-09-2015 at 10:06 AM.
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post #6 of 10 Old 02-09-2015, 08:49 AM
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cool.

You should embed those pictures so people can see them better, and with mobile device.

Example:

[img] + http://www.avsforum.com/forum/attach...5&d=1423470625 + [/img]

is


-

"Too much is almost enough. Anything in life worth doing is worth overdoing. Moderation is for cowards."
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post #7 of 10 Old 02-09-2015, 09:59 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mfusick View Post
You should embed those pictures so people can see them better, and with mobile device.
Done.

After I inline the images, is it safe to remove the "attachments"? It seems like the images could get deleted if they are no longer attachments.

-Max

Last edited by maxcooper; 02-09-2015 at 10:08 AM.
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post #8 of 10 Old 02-09-2015, 10:14 AM
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Yeah.. now it's looking really good

No.. don't delete the attachments. It will wreck everything.. haha

-

"Too much is almost enough. Anything in life worth doing is worth overdoing. Moderation is for cowards."
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post #9 of 10 Old 04-06-2015, 12:37 PM
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Nice job max! How do you plan to finish them? Did you get a good seal with the miter cuts?
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post #10 of 10 Old 04-06-2015, 02:29 PM
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Biscuits FTW!

I built the test cabinet for my SEOS12/TD12m exactly like that. Maybe the guys from the tool talk thread should come in here.

As long as the 45s are really 45degrees, it should seal as well as anything else and it hides all of the edges. I like a challenge and this assembly is one.
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